Quantum boards???

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Indiva710

Indiva710

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Its the opposite. Blue creates more compact growth, red creates more stretch. 3000k is more favored in flower and blue more in veg. I prefer 3000k as an overall light because flower is more important to me and i can control stretch in other ways like temperature manipulation.

However there is some newer info that tends to show late flower under a more blue spectrum to be beneficial
I didnt mind using my 3500k for veg and bloom tbh and is more level between the two which is nice from other single spectrum lighting setups and has about the same reds as a 3000k If I remember right but has a lil more blue of course and really helps things out...Personally if u can only have 1 light for veg and bloom I would use a 3500k personally but that's just me ..
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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I didnt mind using my 3500k for veg and bloom tbh and is more level between the two which is nice from other single spectrum lighting setups and has about the same reds as a 3000k If I remember right but has a lil more blue of course and really helps things out...Personally if u can only have 1 light for veg and bloom I would use a 3500k personally but that's just me ..
Yeah i don't disagree. There is benefits to either. In a perfect world I would (and this is only speculation) go veg at 4K then 3K for bloom and back to 4K for the last 2-3 weeks while they are packing on the weight. I believe a more blue spectrum in flower will really help make the buds tight. Then add UV and IR also but hey im getting carried away.

3000-3500K are both good options for a single light veg/flower.
 
H

hawkman

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I think its the other way around, the 3500k has more blue light which helps plants stretch and grow where the reduced blue and increased red in the 3000k results in more compact plants. I have heard that plants will stretch a lot if there is too little blue as well so to a point I think it can go both ways.
budget makes a "Red" spectrum series 2 board -- 260 watts or 460 watter check this red spec out !!- they have very good customer and can even make boards to your spect's
 
Indiva710

Indiva710

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Yeah i don't disagree. There is benefits to either. In a perfect world I would (and this is only speculation) go veg at 4K then 3K for bloom and back to 4K for the last 2-3 weeks while they are packing on the weight. I believe a more blue spectrum in flower will really help make the buds tight. Then add UV and IR also but hey im getting carried away.

3000-3500K are both good options for a single light veg/flower.
Which is why you enter scynce LED and you can do all those things and many many more .....Which is one of the reasons I'm going with them ..I can't wait to have a all scynce led grow hell's yesss
 
Indiva710

Indiva710

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I think that 240w is going to be too much ..As I my cabinet is a 2x2 as well as my tent is a 2x2 x4 the cabinet I have x2 qb132s 3500k on 60w drivers so 120w and my tent blurple LEDs are 280w total but that tent stays much cooler than the cabinet does and I have more ventilation in the cabinet than the tent still ....Now also the 280w blurple LEDs and my 120w of qb132s I'd pick my qbs just as I do..And get better results....So ya I def wouldn't want to run 240w of qb power in a 2x2 cabinet but it's possible probably.... U could try buying on Amazon so try it out and if u can't keep temps stable them send them back....I will eventually go with strip leds for my cabinet at some point...Too but got better things to spend my money on ATM like my rosin press
 
BigCube

BigCube

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I think that 240w is going to be too much ..As I my cabinet is a 2x2 as well as my tent is a 2x2 x4 the cabinet I have x2 qb132s 3500k on 60w drivers so 120w and my tent blurple LEDs are 280w total but that tent stays much cooler than the cabinet does and I have more ventilation in the cabinet than the tent still ....Now also the 280w blurple LEDs and my 120w of qb132s I'd pick my qbs just as I do..And get better results....So ya I def wouldn't want to run 240w of qb power in a 2x2 cabinet but it's possible probably.... U could try buying on Amazon so try it out and if u can't keep temps stable them send them back....I will eventually go with strip leds for my cabinet at some point...Too but got better things to spend my money on ATM like my rosin press


I was going to say. The 240w with lm301b chips is so bright. I couldn't imagine it in a 2x2. If you do get one, at least get a dimmable one lol.
 
FourthCity

FourthCity

778
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Its the opposite. Blue creates more compact growth, red creates more stretch. 3000k is more favored in flower and blue more in veg. I prefer 3000k as an overall light because flower is more important to me and i can control stretch in other ways like temperature manipulation.

However there is some newer info that tends to show late flower under a more blue spectrum to be beneficial
Agreed, key words "compact growth" not "compact plants." Node spacing can be tighter under higher spectrum lights which I think is what you mean by compact growth (please correct me if Im wrong, not trying to put words in your mouth) but it doesn't mean the plants themselves are any smaller or more compact. In my experience plants grown under metal halide (which has a very blue leaning spectrum) are larger after the same amount of time compared to those I have vegged under hps or 3000k cobs. Of the three my smallest overall plants are those that go full cycle under the 3000k cobs.
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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Agreed, key words "compact growth" not "compact plants." Node spacing can be tighter under higher spectrum lights which I think is what you mean by compact growth (please correct me if Im wrong, not trying to put words in you mouth) but it doesn't mean the plants themselves are any smaller or more compact. In my experience plants grown under metal halide (which has a very blue leaning spectrum) are larger after the same amount of time compared to those I have vegged under hps or 3000k cobs. Of the three my smallest overall plants are those that go full cycle under the 3000k cobs.
I think there was a study done MH vs HPS and HPS wins in terms of overall growth. @MIMedGrower i think was the one that informed me about it in random conversation. What i was referring to as you said was node spacing not overall plants size. With a more blue spectrum the internode distance is shortened creating a more compact growth and a more red spectrum resulting in longer internode spacing.
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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Which is why you enter scynce LED and you can do all those things and many many more .....Which is one of the reasons I'm going with them ..I can't wait to have a all scynce led grow hell's yesss
Dude i started very skeptical about them but the more i dug the more I was impressed. Yes you lose efficiency because of the lenses but you also gain spectrum control and a much more even light distribution. I would say though 40w sq ft with them instead of the 30-40w with QB's/Cobs etc. only because of the lenses
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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For anyone looking to further knowledge on spectrum etc. this is a great read.

 
MIMedGrower

MIMedGrower

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I think there was a study done MH vs HPS and HPS wins in terms of overall growth. @MIMedGrower i think was the one that informed me about it in random conversation. What i was referring to as you said was node spacing not overall plants size. With a more blue spectrum the internode distance is shortened creating a more compact growth and a more red spectrum resulting in longer internode spacing.


Thats not the same as mh bs hps. Cobs and all “full spectrum white” led’s are actually blue phospher coated. Thats why so many leafy buds under led. They are adding far red (actually red) diodes to compensate now.

And yes the university of michigan did extensive testing and determined faster and more growth using hps the whole cycle.

But that was then with bulbs. Now they are testing discreet colored diodes for perdect crop spectrums.

Nasa has a lot of info on led too.

Here is a reprint (on advanced led site) of Nasa findings. The second section is colors and how they affect plants and how they need to be combined.

So the arbitrary color temp they are putting on full spectrum led’s is not really the same. Example a 2700k or 3000k led is no where near the red output of an hps. The led is far more balanced and leaning to blue.

Eventually we will have a combined blurple with extra green and blue and red designed for specific crops.
 
Indiva710

Indiva710

318
93
I was going to say. The 240w with lm301b chips is so bright. I couldn't imagine it in a 2x2. If you do get one, at least get a dimmable one lol.
My qb132 are v1 which has the 561c but they are bright as shit still and of course on a dimmer just a mean well a series for those is all I need
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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638
I have 38w per sq ft. but highly reflective walls and i run Co2. Its plenty for me I don't think i can run more at least not with my limited height. Always a dimmer is a must in my eyes

HLG 600 V1 561C also in a 4x4
 
Indiva710

Indiva710

318
93
Ya I run x2 320w xl v1 for bloom which is 660w in a 4x4 area they use the nichia 757 diodes which is 2850k as it's a equal mix of 2700 and 3000k ..does great however I'm selling them I want my scynce LEDs instead and it really has nothing to do with the hlg as I would sell any light to get the r.ks raging kale and raging kush ...say hello to full customized lighting and spectrums and will only get better with new updates too hells yes...one more step closer to being fully finished w my grow...yeah I doubt that tho it's like a painting it's never really finished lol
 
FourthCity

FourthCity

778
143
I think there was a study done MH vs HPS and HPS wins in terms of overall growth. @MIMedGrower i think was the one that informed me about it in random conversation. What i was referring to as you said was node spacing not overall plants size. With a more blue spectrum the internode distance is shortened creating a more compact growth and a more red spectrum resulting in longer internode spacing.
Thats not the same as mh bs hps. Cobs and all “full spectrum white” led’s are actually blue phospher coated. Thats why so many leafy buds under led. They are adding far red (actually red) diodes to compensate now.

And yes the university of michigan did extensive testing and determined faster and more growth using hps the whole cycle.

But that was then with bulbs. Now they are testing discreet colored diodes for perdect crop spectrums.

Nasa has a lot of info on led too.

Here is a reprint (on advanced led site) of Nasa findings. The second section is colors and how they affect plants and how they need to be combined.

So the arbitrary color temp they are putting on full spectrum led’s is not really the same. Example a 2700k or 3000k led is no where near the red output of an hps. The led is far more balanced and leaning to blue.

Eventually we will have a combined blurple with extra green and blue and red designed for specific crops.
My mh to hps comparison may be a little skewed in favor of the mh for growth. The light fixture I used to use was an analog 1000w mh ballast that I ran with either a 1000w MH bulb or a 1000w MH to HPS conversion bulb. I know the conversion bulbs don't perform as well as the traditional ones and when I switched to a 600w hps ballast and bulb setup it performed just as well as the pair of 1000w bulbs in the mh ballast
 
stasmoke

stasmoke

20
3
I have 38w per sq ft. but highly reflective walls and i run Co2. Its plenty for me I don't think i can run more at least not with my limited height. Always a dimmer is a must in my eyes

I knew nothing about CO2 b4 some todays research.

Found this article @ RQS blog. It says "Anything under 600W/m² is considered too low for CO₂ injection ".

So Im still gonna go for 240W dimmable @ 2x2x4.6 room space w/o CO2. Probably dimm it down to like 135-160watts and maybe push it to 200w+ at the late flowering stage, your opininons? Is it a good idea?
 
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