Ok I should be able to get out there in the next day or so and get some ppm readings.
I plan on using Great White.
Yes please explain.
So it's likely your chlorine or more likely chloramine is around 1 ppm. This is almost negligible. Chlorine is actually a micronutrient.
If it's chloramine the bubbling it will do nothing. If it's chlorine then 24 hrs will be free of it.
But the concentration is not going to really affect your system much if at all. Unless the ppm is close to 4 and your making a nutrient tea I wouldn't worry much. But there is no problem bubbling chlorine out and it is a good practice non the less. If it's chloramine you will need to break the chemical bonds of the ammonia and chlorine. This is easily done with ascorbic acid (vitamin C) 1 gram will neutralize 1ppm of chloramine or chlorine in 100gal of water. So uts very cheap easy and effective and cuts down on the wasted time if you feel you want to.
Great white I have not used but hear good things about. Adding something like komplete or
hygrozyme is also beneficial but it's also costly and I use at 1/4 the recommended dose.
So back to water source. Your not near a coastline are you?
If your water source is low in alkalinity the ph drift will happen quicker. Cannabis does well in a wide range of PH but it does not like wild ph swings. Can read hear for an explanation.
In this article, we discuss proper pH levels for your weed plants; alkalinity, soil pH, tap water, and the effects of nutrients on pH when growing marijuana
www.thcfarmer.com
What nutrients are you planning on using?
Ph up is not worth buying in a bottle as there are better alternatives. They are usually just potassium bicarbonate or hydroxide diluted down and 10x the price of just buying it dry.
For ph down is best bought if you can find as phosphoric acid 85%. It's usually very cheap and concentrated so caution needs to be used. Acid to water never water to acid. It should be diluted 10x before adding to the res or you risk roots exposed to burning before it can mix.
So we want a 0.2-0.3 ph drift in 24 hrs this allows a range of availability for different nutrients and that amount of ph change in that time won't stress the plants.
The article I link explains how alkalinity is how we directly control ph drift. Basically the more alkalinity the more acid is needed to lower ph and the more stable it becomes because add more of either has less I.pact on the ratio than if we had a small alkalinity and small amount of acid. But there is a happy medium.
www.thcfarmer.com
