Dothraki
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Thanks for the input. I’ll start off by saying...twigs will snap at a large and wide range of moisture contents. That’s where it gets tricky and more details are needed, but difficult for most of us to frame into a clear and whole picture. I would imagine a small stem near a gigantic dense bud would snap differently than a thicker stem with loose larfy buds....instead of equalling due to the opposites in balance. I know that sounds odd but I can clarify if needed. Anyway, my point is maybe more details surrounding the bigger picture would be beneficial. Maybe I’m wrong and all stems will dry at the same rate but there’s still a pretty wide margin where you could “snap” the stem. Even a living stem can make a snap on a healthy plant. I’ve lived in big cities but spent most of my life near hills, woods and creeks. Interesting observation though, as some people maybe never snapped a twig lol. Never thought about that. Anyway it’s a good discussion and something that’s hard to convey with words. Especially since different branches will snap at different times based on moisture content even on the same plant, but also depending on the physical properties of the individual plant, the fiber structure and how the plant structure developed internally.Its the easiest/hardest thing to explain because we can be saying the same thing and meaning two completely different concepts.
I do not know your background, and not trying to dig and find out, point being if all you have lived in is a big city and that's all you know, you may or may not understand what breaking a dry tree limb or stick sounds or feels like, if you have its not a hard concept to grasp. Not throwing shade just saying, go outside and grab a dry stick and break it, that's what your stem should do, be it main stalk or side branches.
Maybe think in different terms. The concepts you are talking about with temp and humidity during drying are directly related to businesses or buyers/sellers being able to have shelf life out of their product. Not so much so with a hobby farmer or farmers market business where you constantly have fresh product and quick turn around.
My method is simple. I use bankers boxes (cardboard boxes easy to obtain and cheap). I saw NVclosetmedgrower use that method a few years ago. He has trophies for his cannabis and if he does it that way there must be something to it. Temps are low 70's and humidity is around 40% no special room its just in a box. Takes an easy 2-3 weeks for the product to be dry. That's dry and ready to jar no burping or packets.
Commercial practices are good, but there is a difference between someone wanting to chop a plant and have a great flavorful smoke that does not smell like hay in 2 or 3 weeks and someone wanting the same a year later.
I know this sounds like a lot...and I’m sure most people will think it’s crazy to think this in-depth about a stem snapping but it’s also crucial to grasp if you want to perfect the dry and cure process. Also, I think everyone will dry to different levels before jarring based on what worked best for them through trial and error...which still might not be the ideal moisture content they settled on. But probably impossible to find out because there’s just too many variables.
Which I guess is why a basic “when the stems snap” is maybe the best way to put it lol. It puts you in the ballpark of the right time to jar.
Also, as I understand it...it’s not good to overdry but it’s worse to jar too early? Does that sound right? Jarring too early will give you the hay and grass smells from the chlorophyll?