Slow growth since switching to LED

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mysticepipedon

mysticepipedon

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@Weedgrower — you didn't mention temperatures.

I don't know if this will have any bearing on your situation, but your plants may miss the heat from the HIDs. Dropping from 80F to 70F, for example, will cut biological activity roughly in half.
 
W

Weedgrower

30
18
Increase light by the % change in duration. So say 18/6 to 12/12 would be a 33% increase. We are looking to maintain the same DLI (daily light integral) so if your at 600ppfd you would increase to 900ppfd.

But with that said you need to take into account the photosynthetic rates at which the plants can convert photons to energy. So you want to increase say 15% or so and over the next week or 2 up to the full 33% while paying attention to the plants.

Remember a slight V is desirable but not so much as to induce too much stress. After 1 grow paying attention you should have it nailed
The problem is I can only go up in increments of 25%. Do they look ready to flip to you, how's the stretch during flower under led is it more or less?
 
W

Weedgrower

30
18
@Weedgrower — you didn't mention temperatures.

I don't know if this will have any bearing on your situation, but your plants may miss the heat from the HIDs. Dropping from 80F to 70F, for example, will cut biological activity roughly in half.
Temperatures are pretty much 25c all the time. I have an electric fan heater with a thermostat and my intake is on a climate controller.
 
Shaded_One

Shaded_One

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25c is 77f. So 26-27?

Personally, I've found my plants respond the best in the 28-32c range. Remember as @Aqua Man said that your leaf surface temps are typically 4-5 degrees under your room temperatures. So if your room is at 25/26c your leaf temps are very low. LED does not put out as much radiant heat as HPS which is great for keeping rooms cool but also has the adverse affect of running too cold.

Ideally you also want your night time temps to be about 10 degrees difference between your day time temps. Ex: 30c day 20c night
 
B

Budzyz

17
13
Not sure about the issue 1k watt led seems like not enough to me I’m at 3k w which is supposedly equal to 2x 600w HPS over 4’x4’ of grow space using LED (about 500 true watts)

What are the true watts of the light pulling from the wall?

Either way your plants look healthy as hell!
I use a 1000 watt true draw led and my results are fantastic. I would never use HID lights again. 10 white widow plants in week 1. Pic 2 is one Goldleaf plant 300 grams wet weight . I can easily get 20 oz in a grow in my 4 x 4 probably more if I did more training but I prefer big colas over SOG or SCROG .
 
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W

Weedgrower

30
18
I use a 1000 watt true draw led and my results are fantastic. I would never use HID lights again. 10 white widow plants in week 1. Pic 2 is one Goldleaf plant 300 grams wet weight . I can easily get 20 oz in a grow in my 4 x 4 probably more if I did more training but I prefer big colas over SOG or SCROG .
Beautiful... with HPS I have been getting 25 to 30 Oz in my 1.5 X 1.5. I'm hoping to get a tad more under my led :)
 
Shaded_One

Shaded_One

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Beautiful... with HPS I have been getting 25 to 30 Oz in my 1.5 X 1.5. I'm hoping to get a tad more under my led :)

Definitely doable. I just pulled 26 off of 3 plants(one of them failed) in a 4x4 with 600w. I was fighting with temps as well and honestly there was a phase in veg where I had my lights at almost full blast because I needed the ambient heat from the lights to reach optimal room temps. I just had to have my lights practically at my ceiling to not blast them with PPFD :p
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

26,480
638
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Next up... dialing in your VPD to pull it all together... 😊
You got it and thats covered here.

 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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638
Use the height for even light soread and intensity. I have a few grs of work to do but ill get back at this then
So in regards to this. Use a combination of height and power input to control the intensity and even coverage of light to the plants. You can do this any way you like the most ideal and wasteful would be to hang the light as high as possible while reaching optimal ppfd and run it at 100% it would give the most even light spread but also consume the most power.

What type of ohone do you have as you can use a free app to get an idea of how even the light spread is and some numbers to gauge roughly the intensity. Doesn’t really matter how accurate as long as it’s consistent when it comes to measurements because you are using it to ballpark and adjusting based on plant response.

What type of measuring equipment do you have eg. Lux, par, quantum meter, android phone, iphone?

All can be used easily for this purpose
 
F

FriendlyFarmer90

8
3
Personally, I've found my plants respond the best in the 28-32c range. Remember as @Aqua Man said that your leaf surface temps are typically 4-5 degrees under your room temperatures. So if your room is at 25/26c your leaf temps are very low. LED does not put out as much radiant heat as HPS which is great for keeping rooms cool but also has the adverse affect of running too cold.

Ideally you also want your night time temps to be about 10 degrees difference between your day time temps. Ex: 30c day 20c night
Thats really high, i suppose you supplement co2? Because if i go any higher than 28 ambient with lights on i get very larfy buds. I’m not very experienced though been growing for 3yrs now. So could be due to other issues that i was unaware of. But high temps in my tent was the reason i switched from CMH to LED. Since i started growing with the 600w zeus i have ambient 26c, leaf temp 24-25c and at night its 20c
 
N1ghtL1ght

N1ghtL1ght

Staff
Supporter
670
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A 600w HPS has a quantum efficiency of ~1.5umols per watt in comparison your LED barlight doubles that.

Then, there's 3 other major differences, the HPS light has a much better penetration or leaf transmittance and its light recipe additionally causes longer internodes and that alltogether makes the plant gather more light as a whole. Also the plant's oxygen evolution rate (a direct measurement of PS2 photochemistry) will be higher.
It's because the HPS delivers a complete package of yellow/orange light complimented by very little blue, farred and much heat (IR).

In stark contrast that LED has much blue, high red but only very little farred and no IR, all things considered creates a stocky short plant with leaves upon leaves shadowing one another.
If you ever think about improving that spectrum think about a farred extension kit on a separate timer that will cut down your veg-time by weeks, and give a sleep initiation, too.

But the highest priority right now I see is to dial in the temperature right. An IR heater is best because it will heat up the leaves and not the air (which is mostly vented out anyway). Or you can manage it somehow to heat up the air before the intake.
Another method oftentimes used is to blow down the air from above the LED and have both a cooling effect (= diodes more efficient) and a plant benefit. Some LED growers even reverse the airflow and vent out from below to get that effect
 
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