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Aqua’s Hydro systems meet SPIDERFARMER SE 7000

Personally in hydro I like my PH to slowly swing between 5.5 and 6.2. My thought is this helps with multiple nutrients. I'd like to devise a test to this effect and have the system automatically dose up or down based on an algorithm. You know, for...
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Aqua’s Hydro systems meet SPIDERFARMER SE 7000

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#981
Moe.Red said:
Personally in hydro I like my PH to slowly swing between 5.5 and 6.2. My thought is this helps with multiple nutrients. I'd like to devise a test to this effect and have the system automatically dose up or down based on an algorithm. You know, for
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Moe.Red said:
corollary would be that PH could be used as yet another tool in the arsenal for managing nute uptake. For example, instead of dumping in cal-mag, would it be better to raise PH to center on 6.2 for a week if you see a calcium or magnesium deficiency? I would just need to figure out the sweet spots for each salt while not depriving another.
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Exactly

My thoughts as well
 
#982
beluga said:
Why potassium gotta do us like that?
Screen-Shot-2022-09-16-at-2-27-06-PM.png
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Haha right…but have to keep in mind our ratios we use take this into account… so we don’t necessarily see issues if we are within the ideal of about 5.4-6.2. But as @Moe.Red suggests it absolutely can help
 
#984
I mean this kinda shows that plants needs dont change alot nutrient wise. This may be a bit out thete but my thiughts are kinda like this.

plants have the ability to change the PH right around the root to an extent to aid in nutrien uptake that it wants.There are a shit ton of moving parts here bit if we change the Ph we may need to change the ratios a bit…

so does the plant need vastly different ratios or does the availability change as the ph of the root zone changes and therefore we use different ratios… The answer imo is both but not to the extent that we see touted as necessary and the PH plays a large part of that role
 
#985
Aqua Man said:
I mean this kinda shows that plants needs dont change alot nutrient wise. This may be a bit out thete but my thiughts are kinda like this.

plants have the ability to change the PH right around the root to an extent to aid in nutrien uptake that it wants.There are a shit ton of moving parts here bit if we change the Ph we may need to change the ratios a bit…

so does the plant need vastly different ratios or does the availability change as the ph of the root zone changes and therefore we use different ratios… The answer imo is both but not to the extent that we see touted as necessary and the PH plays a large part of that role
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I know there is more to this than I understand today, this makes sense as plausible to me.
 
#986
Aqua Man said:
Thats why i run low ph in veg and transition up to about 5.8-6.0 maybe up to 6.2 in later flower
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Much above 6.2 most strain start to bitch. PH needs to stay between 5.7 and 6.2 IMO. I have been playing with this also. Until I break out the Auto purées in storage.
6.3 is 10 times more alkaline than 6.2
There are charts for ideal PH and specific nutrients.
 
#987
Anthem said:
Much above 6.2 most strain start to bitch. PH needs to stay between 5.7 and 6.2 IMO. I have been playing with this also. Until I break out the Auto purées in storage.
6.3 is 10 times more alkaline than 6.2
There are charts for ideal PH and specific nutrients.
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The conversion is 1.0 change in ph is 10x if I haven’t mistaken.

i find the same thing 6.2 and up i start seeing issues in hydro
 
#988
Aqua Man said:
I mean this kinda shows that plants needs dont change alot nutrient wise. This may be a bit out thete but my thiughts are kinda like this.

plants have the ability to change the PH right around the root to an extent to aid in nutrien uptake that it wants.There are a shit ton of moving parts here bit if we change the Ph we may need to change the ratios a bit…

so does the plant need vastly different ratios or does the availability change as the ph of the root zone changes and therefore we use different ratios… The answer imo is both but not to the extent that we see touted as necessary and the PH plays a large part of that role
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So if you grow in soil and soilless and do tissue analyses on both you will find a great difference in ratio's between the 2. Your plant grown in soil will generally have a better ratio profile, higher brix and just better overall quality, in soilless and different for each medium rookwool, coco, hydro,etc it takes much different nutrient ratio inputs, to get the same plant ratio profile and brix as it does grown in soil. Thats why brix is a good marker to look at when growing soilless, its also cheap and easy , a high brix gives you an indication on your nutrient inputs.
 
#991
Moe.Red said:
Can you elaborate on how you test brix?
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brix refractometer on ebay $25, So basically take a leaf squeeze the juice out of it on the meter it will read a percentage you ideally want to be over 12% in some soilless mediums that can be hard,. but as I'm sure you know the higher the brix the much better quality. A brix metter will also help you set Ca to K ratio
 
#992
Dr.Green55 said:
brix refractometer on ebay $25, So basically take a leaf squeeze the juice out of it on the meter it will read a percentage you ideally want to be over 12% in some soilless mediums that can be hard,. but as I'm sure you know the higher the brix the much better quality. A brix metter will also help you set Ca to K ratio
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Actually no I did not know. Thanks for that.
 
#993
In fact a brix meter can help you set a lot of your nutrient or atleast help out, you can make small adjustment to one nutrient at a time, and you can then see how the brix reacts. also like defoliation do a hard defoliation or even a defoliation and see how it kills your brix
 
#994
Dr.Green55 said:
In fact a brix meter can help you set a lot of your nutrient or atleast help out, you can make small adjustment to one nutrient at a time, and you can then see how the brix reacts. also like defoliation do a hard defoliation or even a defoliation and see how it kills your brix
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Stupid question here but do you have any idea why defoliation kills the brix’s? I just ordered a meter as well.
 
#995
Dr.Green55 said:
In fact a brix meter can help you set a lot of your nutrient or atleast help out, you can make small adjustment to one nutrient at a time, and you can then see how the brix reacts. also like defoliation do a hard defoliation or even a defoliation and see how it kills your brix
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One more stupid question. As the plant is finishing does it get harder and harder to keep the Brix’s level high?
 
#998
Anthem said:
I looked on A they have them as low as 20 bucks but I sprung for a 100 dollar metal one with 5 stars. They go up to about 500 for a Cadillac, but I am OK with Craftman but I love snap on tools
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Yeah they have digital too. Seems interesting to a tech geek, but I wonder if the old school optics are better.
 
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