Spider mites. Was planning on flipping with in a week

[Willisbrow]

This is my second grow with my room full of plants. My first round went really good so I wasn’t very careful with this go round. I harvested my plants in April 24th and put the new round in a day later. I cleaned my tray with bleach and bleached my walls and floors. Did t clean any of my fans(I thought I was okay since last round had zero issues).

I noticed some white spots on my leaves and after closer inspection I noticed that it was spider mites. I sprayed them with neem oil tonight.
My question is, is it worth trying to save this round, or should I scrap them and clean my room and try again? I’m on a time schedule so if I kill this round I won’t be able to start my new grow till November So that’s a king wait.
Here are some pics.
Please let me know what u think I should do.

Thanks.

 

[Willisbrow]

I know this topic has been covered a bunch. I just wanna know if u guys think this is worth trying to salvage or not.
Thanks!

 

[HerbalEdu]

you should be oki treating at this stage, i don't like much neem oil i much prefer spinosad

 

[Willisbrow]

is that a concentrate that u mix up? I’m gonna go to the hydro store tomorrow before work and pick some up

 

[HerbalEdu]

Spinosad - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

diluted and used as spray

 

[ev.dawgy]

is that a concentrate that u mix up? I’m gonna go to the hydro store tomorrow before work and pick some up

Don't waste your cash on any products for the mites. They won't do the trick and you will more than likely damage the plant which defeats the purpose. Every Spinisad product I've gotten from the grow store has damaged my plants before doing nothing to the mites.

I'm am currently mite free.

You want to continue with your grow, clearly because you wont be able to get plants going again until november, which is not ideal.

Having spider mites is not the end of the world unless you let it be. If you don't do some manual labor to disrupt the spidermites then it could be a lost cause, but thats not you. You don't PLAY GAMES. Not when it comes to your boo thang Mary Jane!

Before you spray and pray, see what you can do manually in terms of brushing off or crushing mites from each plant. If you can decrease the populations 75% buy just manual efforts (no sprays), then that is going to make you feel a lot better about dealing with the issue at hand.

I don't want to make this too long but I'll show you a technique I use for my plants.

1. Check each plant for damage.
2. Start with the plants most effected by spider mites.
3. Get comfortable where you can sit down with the plant, and go through each branch systematically, pinching leaves and crushing mites, or use a more general technique in grabbing the branches at their base, one at a time and running your hands on the under sides of the leaves to the top of the branch (cola, shoot, you get it).
4. Once the plant has been gone through you can put it back, and move on to the next plant. This does not have to be perfect, and is just a method of disruption.

The method here is not to eliminate the mites right away, but to decrease the pest pressure to a point that is sustainable and where the plant will not suffer more damage and pest pressure than it can handle.

What most people don't realize is that the plant can detect when its being attacked, and natural defenses can be activated which will act as a natural pesticide, and allow the plant to regain its strength, vigor, and immune defence. It's very rewarding to see this take place, where the plants fight off the pests just as much as you do.

I've done this to a 20'x15' room in a few hours, repeat weekly.

Like I said, you don't need to eliminate the bugs completely, but just bring the pest pressure down to an acceptable level to where the growth of your crop outperforms the weight of pest pressure.

Help the plant out with the manual labor, if you need a video I can post one of the technique I use to disrupt the bugs. Neem is a 100% no no during flower. Spinosad will damage your leaves and destroy your plant if you dont use it in a dilute enough form. And when you dilute it, it just does not work at all, and still may damage your new growth to the point where your plant is now stunted completely.

It should pay to keep this plant going and minimize any products you spray on the plant, as there are safer methods that produce just as good results.

I'll watch this thread and see how it progresses. In the mean time maybe a picture from further back to see the scope of what we are dealing with here, and maybe we can come up with a more suitable regimen to keep the pest pressure down. Comprimises here and there.

I hope you decide to tough it out and see what you can do before grabbing a product to try and treat the plant. Better to be safe than sorry.

 

[HerbalEdu]

there nothing like spinosad will damage your leaves ... that sound like lot of bro science ... just saying ...

reducing the population on spidermites isn't the solution aside if you want to keep the problem forever in between grow sessions

treat it once and for all as spidermites quickly devellop resistance to treatments

How to Prevent Spider Mites In Cannabis Plants - RQS Blog

Spider mites prey on cannabis and can have a huge effect on your yields. Click here to learn how to keep your cannabis plants safe from spider mites.

www.royalqueenseeds.com

 

[ev.dawgy]

there nothing like spinosad will damage your leaves ... that sound like lot of bro science ... just saying ...

reducing the population on spidermites isn't the solution aside if you want to keep the problem forever in between grow sessions

treat it once and for all as spidermites quickly devellop resistance to treatments

How to Prevent Spider Mites In Cannabis Plants - RQS Blog

Spider mites prey on cannabis and can have a huge effect on your yields. Click here to learn how to keep your cannabis plants safe from spider mites.

www.royalqueenseeds.com

ANYTHING, that you spray on your plants, that leaves a residue, such as spinosad, or neem, or sm-90, or whatever other pesticide or insecticidal soap you want to use, can cause damage to your plants. This is fact. Impossible for this to be "Bro Science".

I'm going to post the defnition of bro science so you can see the irony in your post.

Broscience (or less commonly bromeopathy) is a derogatory term for misconceptions and ideas of questionable scientific credibility, passed around among laymen by word-of-mouth as if factually true.

So its a derogatory term, and you used it ... just saying ... as a way of passive aggresive insult... There is no other way to use the term.

THEN, you go and spew 2 sentences of pure unadulterated "BRO SCIENCE".

I can't make this up.,,

First, you state, "reducing the populations of spidermites is not the solution, aside if you want to keep the problem forever..."... Are you hearing yourself? I'll give you another one.

Secondly, you go on to state, "treat it once and for all as spidermites quickly devellop resistance to treatments"... I mean COME ON MAN?

There is NO scientific evidence for this, although there have been studies, scientist are not sure if the pesticides are becoming less effective, the pests are becoming resistant, or if the small amount of pesticides that are approved for use are making it appear as if there is resistance. And there certainly is not a timeframe on how fast the spidermites acquire said resistance... Go ahead a look, you will waste your time.

As if there is a product out there that will kill 100% of the spidermites in your tent, with one application. Let's assume you can apply the spray to every single surface of the plant, and tent, and surrounding area...

What if the products are not as effective as advertised? Is this possible? I'll save you the trouble, it absolutely is possible, and it is the case with spinosad.

Did you know that in the instructions for spinosad products, it states the product is not intended for single use eradication of the problem? It's intended to be used as part of a series of integraded pest management techniques... It literally says on the bottle that its to be used in cunjunction with other pesticides to ensure manageable pest pressures.... Yeah I've gone through the whole list of OMRI certified pesticides for use in Canada, I've used them all. They are sham products, for the "Bros", such as yourself.

Congragulations @HerbalEdu, you have now dubbed "Bromeo", "once and for all".

TLDR: You are delusional if you think a single application of a spinosad production will kill all the spidermites, and not damage your plants.

 

[HerbalEdu]

you're the guy advising to breed spidermites instead of eradicating them ... roflmao... that's what i call bro science on the long run ...

 

[HerbalEdu]

well if you use a products let's say spinosad not accordingly you surely face problem ... but if you use it accordingly to products recomendation why would you face problem....

i have never said anywhere you had to use spinosad one time, where did you see that ....

stay polite ...

 

[ev.dawgy]

well if you use a products let's say spinosad not accordingly you surely face problem ... but if you use it accordingly to products recomendation why would you face problem....

i have never said anywhere you had to use spinosad one time, where did you see that ....

stay polite ...

Alright @HerbalEdu, we good. I gave you props on the filter edited photo of your flattest canopy. Once you say "Bro Science" all bets are off man.

 

[TSD]

Trying to bring the population down before spraying isn't a bad idea. If I get them outside I use the hose, it knocks many off, obviously the plants hate it cause it's ice cold, but they recover. You could take them in your shower if you have a spray nozzle, tip em up and spray under leaves too, or kitchen spray hose if you don't mind a mess. Whatever you use, you need to saturate every nook and cranny on every leaf, stem, everything. Do it before lights off, then repeat in 2 to 3 days. I have good luck with Lost Coast Plant Therapy, I just eradicated a very early mite issue with it, yours is quite advanced, they multiply so fast. You may need more than twice.

 

[ev.dawgy]

Trying to bring the population down before spraying isn't a bad idea. If I get them outside I use the hose, it knocks many off, obviously the plants hate it cause it's ice cold, but they recover. You could take them in your shower if you have a spray nozzle, tip em up and spray under leaves too, or kitchen spray hose if you don't mind a mess. Whatever you use, you need to saturate every nook and cranny on every leaf, stem, everything. Do it before lights off, then repeat in 2 to 3 days. I have good luck with Lost Coast Plant Therapy, I just eradicated a very early mite issue with it, yours is quite advanced, they multiply so fast. You may need more than twice.

Great info, if it's possible just rinse the plants off to get rid of the more obvious infestations. I don't really think many people rinse their plants off if they have indoors. Just a lot of work, but it's certainly doable, and I've been known to give plants a shower here and there.

I like to stick to my mechanical methods, and spraying the plants down certainly falls under this.

Of course the issue reoccurs, and if you don't stay on top of it with some sort of pest management, then the mites will return over the course of a week or two.

Ladybugs really peak my interest, as I've seen how vigorously they scour the plants looking for mites, its actualy dope to see. A 50 pack of ladybugs would do wonders for any small room.

 

[HerbalEdu]

Alright @HerbalEdu, we good. I gave you props on the filter edited photo of your flattest canopy. Once you say "Bro Science" all bets are off man.

on a side we have you saying.

"Help the plant out with the manual labor, if you need a video I can post one of the technique I use to disrupt the bugs. Neem is a 100% no no during flower. Spinosad will damage your leaves and destroy your plant if you dont use it in a dilute enough form. And when you dilute it, it just does not work at all, and still may damage your new growth to the point where your plant is now stunted completely."

if that's not bro science what it is ... you making assumption from your own experience against everyone else in the industry ...

on the other side we have royal queen seeds european biggest breeder recommending the use of spinosad in alternance with others insecticide as spidermites are known to devellop resistance fast

i do also recommand you ll have a look at spidermites wikipedia pages, know your foes man ...

note sure who i m gonna listen the guy crushing the mites between it's fingers or the renowed breeder ...

 

[mysticepipedon]

The notion of not spraying anything on your plants, because sprays always damage plants, is silly.

Yes, you can damage plants when you spray them, but it is not inevitable.

 

[Willisbrow]

I have 9 plants in A 5.5x5,5 room. I ordered a 1 gallon sprayer a day before I realized I had spider mites si I can spray with plain water or stuff that I’m gonna buy today. I don’t wanna keep them at bay. I want to never see these fuckers in my room again. It’s not a Tent. It’s a little built room with 2x4s and plywood.

 

[mysticepipedon]

I have 9 plants in A 5.5x5,5 room. I ordered a 1 gallon sprayer a day before I realized I had spider mites si I can spray with plain water or stuff that I’m gonna buy today. I don’t wanna keep them at bay. I want to never see these fuckers in my room again. It’s not a Tent. It’s a little built room with 2x4s and plywood.

I've never had spider mites, but I use this spider mite remedy for thrips. A friend of mine swears by it for mites:

8 oz Nuke Em®

It's essentially a vinegar solution. Spray it just before lights out, with plenty of airflow so the plants dry out again. Either that or spray it and turn your light way down until it dries. Hit them every three days until they're gone.

You can use it into flower, but I would try to avoid anything after week 2.

 

[BigBlonde]

I fought against spider mites last summer. It was my first indoor grow. The battle didn't go well, but I learned a lot. They are ridiculously hard to eradicate. They breed rapidly and can evolve to resist chemical treatments. To avoid breeding super mites, use multiple techniques. I used hydrogen peroxide and alcohol sprays. I also sprayed the plants with plain water to try to wash them off the leaves. Submerging the plants in water for a minute or more is supposed to drown them, but I didn't do that. I eventually moved my growing to another room and am letting them die in the first room. They can't survive without green vegetation. Their eggs can last a long time, though, so my plan is to keep any plants away from that room for a full year. Their preferred hatching time is when the climate is hot and dry, so that's August where I live.

After my struggle with those damn mites, in retrospect, I should have used predator mites (or some other predator, like Ladybugs, I believe). Amazon has predator mites. Here are a couple links:

2,000 Live Adult Predatory Mites

12,500 Live Hypoaspis Miles (Predatory Mites)

 

[dreamnfox]

I used a sulfar burner in my greenhouse, 2 weeks burning every three days, then add predatory mites, still had a few mites at harvest but nothing too damaging.

 

[BigBlonde]

I'll add that there was considerable pushback against using chemicals in our home due to health concerns for the human and feline residents. So, if your growing room is in your home, be aware of potential health effects. We also store food in the growing room we used last summer, so that was also a reason for the pushback.

We haven't seen any signs of spider mites in the second room. It's a smaller room, so it's easier to manage the environment in it. We also did as much as we could to sanitize the first room after the plants were gone. There still could be some eggs in there, though, so I'm hoping that when conditions are right for them, they'll hatch and die from starvation.