Spider mites. Was planning on flipping with in a week

[HerbalEdu]

the matter with people like you is they are entlited with their opinion.

it can rarely happen a spidermites infestation resolve by itself when the spider mites population is low but in most case it's recommended to use some pesticides.

there literally more than 30 different pesticide that are advised against spidermites anyone can find the list using google, where planet do you come from to think that after nearly a century of industrial agriculture no one has a clue how to deal with spidermites. as you don't seem to get simple fact as there are many professionnal that use safely,(without damaging there plant) and efficiently various pesticides. matter is more about wich of thoose pesticides are available in your contry depending local regulations rules

i m gonna repeat, you saying:
"Don't waste your cash on any products for the mites. They won't do the trick and you will more than likely damage the plant which defeats the purpose."

"Spinosad will damage your leaves and destroy your plant if you dont use it in a dilute enough form. And when you dilute it, it just does not work at all, and still may damage your new growth to the point where your plant is now stunted completely."
this is 100% bro science when there is literally million of spinosad users across the world that don't face such problem when using it, same with others insecticide than spinosad you might have done something wrong regarding application recommendation or if that's not on your end using the products it could be almost anything from your environnemental condition that as gone wrong ph, heat, salt built up or whatever else

now about your beg that i pm you, don't even count on it, so i have said part of what you've said is bro science then you insulted me and called me a moron i reported you for that.

then you've started reacting to some of my photos available from my profile laughing at them and finnaly liking one of them then PMing me saying some of my plants look like shit from the photos i shared here, sorry but my friends and me are happy with my weed, taste great, with nice density and compactness of the buds, not larfy and potent enough.
People like you spitting venom in private to every person that disagree with them is a cancerous well know internet treat.
also who are you to judge quality of someone weed just from a photo ... wtf ...

oh you've also attempted trying to start an argument with me about the fact i linked royal queen seed blog ... so everyone know royal queen seeds is one of the worst breeder there is a lot of people having issue with their seeds, but

it change nothing to the fact it's also the european biggest breeder and that's their blogs pages on their web site on various cannabis topics is one of the most complete and accurate you can find accross the internet and who care but you if that's just copy paste from what everyone in the industry know since long.

all the advices you shared on this thread isn't a quarter of their article

and then you told me you have a degree in i don't even remind what botanical specialities, be advised i know a dozen of person that don't have a degree in botanics and know ten times more thing about growing cannabis than you, having a degree don't make you a educated person if you don't continue to follow the latest news, about the controversy about various insecticide working or not with spidermites , both mortality rate, efficiency on eggs, efficiency droping the natality rate of adult female, develloping resistances there studies from 2001 and 2006 that suggest it's mostly varies depending wich species of spidermites your facing, there is about ten different spidermites species that don't resist equally to the various insecticide so it's more advised to use predator agaisnt them, but you seem too lazy to use "google scholar" despite your degree in botanics ....

you'r a freakin clown ... we had that girl the other day affirming 100% germination rate is a thing, that other guy with 250 plants dealing with spider mites with a vaccum cleaner and now you trying to parse your way out of the fact you said some things dumb at first.

TLDR: sorry for the wall of text that's not something i usually do ...blablabla mine are bigger than yours meh ....

 

[HerbalEdu]

oh and i can add that regarding your comments in private on my plants and despite your degree in botanic you don't seem to have any clue about what's phenotypic dispersion within a strain, gauss normal distribution law, and stability of a said strain compared to another ...

mister "Clearly nobody went to school here." ... hilarious ...

 

[Itscheese94]

Hate theese buggers water with a tiny amout of bleach in tub then dunk the plant to the base repeat the process couple of times in 1 week say allways works great

 

[Willisbrow]

I went to the grow store and asked for spinosad and that’s what the dude gave me. I used it on Friday. So I will try the dr zymes on Monday. The plants didn’t look that bad at all yesterday. I didn’t take a pic. Lights come on at 2pm pst. I will take a pic and post them. I won’t try to battle these little fuckers in flower. I will cut my losses and start back up in November. Hopefully they will be all gone my then(after s major cleaning).

 

[HerbalEdu]

yeah you should be oki monterey products containing spinosad also list spidermites in it's notice.

 

[Willisbrow]

I also cut some fan leaves off. Seemed like a good thing to do. Less stuff for them to live in. Tell me if that’s a bad idea.

 

[HerbalEdu]

according to most country regulation in EU regarding pesticides allowed for use in biological agriculture you can use spinosad up to 1 day (strawberries etc.) from harvest up to tree week (apple, peer all kind of tree) from harvest depending how fast is plant metabolism assimilating and elimating it, so it's pretty safe to use up to two weeks from harvest with cannabis imho

 

[HerbalEdu]

no trimming is also advised not necessarly but it could help diminuting the population before treatment, to me mostly gonna depend the ratio of green against damaged part that left on the leaves, but in general i m not a fan of defoliation.

 

[Willisbrow]

Here are some pics after the spray. Gonna use the dr zymes tomorrow

 

[ev.dawgy]

another thing is there is two main species of spidermites, "Tetranychus urticae" and "panonychus ulmi" and that according to some 2001 and 2006 studies not all acaricides, wich include spinosad, work equally for both species

"panonychus ulmi" is much more resis

the matter with people like you is they are entlited with their opinion.

it can rarely happen a spidermites infestation resolve by itself when the spider mites population is low but in most case it's recommended to use some pesticides.

there literally more than 30 different pesticide that are advised against spidermites anyone can find the list using google, where planet do you come from to think that after nearly a century of industrial agriculture no one has a clue how to deal with spidermites. as you don't seem to get simple fact as there are many professionnal that use safely,(without damaging there plant) and efficiently various pesticides. matter is more about wich of thoose pesticides are available in your contry depending local regulations rules

i m gonna repeat, you saying:
"Don't waste your cash on any products for the mites. They won't do the trick and you will more than likely damage the plant which defeats the purpose."

"Spinosad will damage your leaves and destroy your plant if you dont use it in a dilute enough form. And when you dilute it, it just does not work at all, and still may damage your new growth to the point where your plant is now stunted completely."
this is 100% bro science when there is literally million of spinosad users across the world that don't face such problem when using it, same with others insecticide than spinosad you might have done something wrong regarding application recommendation or if that's not on your end using the products it could be almost anything from your environnemental condition that as gone wrong ph, heat, salt built up or whatever else

now about your beg that i pm you, don't even count on it, so i have said part of what you've said is bro science then you insulted me and called me a moron i reported you for that.

then you've started reacting to some of my photos available from my profile laughing at them and finnaly liking one of them then PMing me saying some of my plants look like shit from the photos i shared here, sorry but my friends and me are happy with my weed, taste great, with nice density and compactness of the buds, not larfy and potent enough.
People like you spitting venom in private to every person that disagree with them is a cancerous well know internet treat.
also who are you to judge quality of someone weed just from a photo ... wtf ...

oh you've also attempted trying to start an argument with me about the fact i linked royal queen seed blog ... so everyone know royal queen seeds is one of the worst breeder there is a lot of people having issue with their seeds, but

it change nothing to the fact it's also the european biggest breeder and that's their blogs pages on their web site on various cannabis topics is one of the most complete and accurate you can find accross the internet and who care but you if that's just copy paste from what everyone in the industry know since long.

all the advices you shared on this thread isn't a quarter of their article

and then you told me you have a degree in i don't even remind what botanical specialities, be advised i know a dozen of person that don't have a degree in botanics and know ten times more thing about growing cannabis than you, having a degree don't make you a educated person if you don't continue to follow the latest news, about the controversy about various insecticide working or not with spidermites , both mortality rate, efficiency on eggs, efficiency droping the natality rate of adult female, develloping resistances there studies from 2001 and 2006 that suggest it's mostly varies depending wich species of spidermites your facing, there is about ten different spidermites species that don't resist equally to the various insecticide so it's more advised to use predator agaisnt them, but you seem too lazy to use "google scholar" despite your degree in botanics ....

you'r a freakin clown ... we had that girl the other day affirming 100% germination rate is a thing, that other guy with 250 plants dealing with spider mites with a vaccum cleaner and now you trying to parse your way out of the fact you said some things dumb at first.

TLDR: sorry for the wall of text that's not something i usually do ...blablabla mine are bigger than yours meh ....

Like I said, pm me you ridiculous kid. I got so much other things to do than argue with you, thanks. Still not reading a word of your wasted time. Keep picking a fight if you want, but please stop hijacking @Willisbrow 's thread, I'm sure he would appreciate it.

 

[ev.dawgy]

Here are some pics after the spray. Gonna use the dr zymes tomorrow View attachment 1977905 View attachment 1977903View attachment 1977904

It's good you have some more developed plants here, they should handle things well. Looking forward to seeing how things progress.

What were the feeding instructions and which products did you use?

I was under the impression you would be spraying stuff on your buds through flower, and I only mean to avoid that. Hopefully this application here can knock them back for long enough to get a successful flower.

Never want to have a residue of this stuff in your finished product, so at some point you may have to try some other methods to keep them back. I can't with a good concience say that this single application with rid you of mites for good, but I'm hoping for the best here.

https://www.researchgate.net/publication/332917174_Cytotoxic_effects_of_bio-pesticide_Spinosad_on_human_lung_A549_cells

Be safe.

 

[Itscheese94]

Watch out bud for spraying insecticide to strong certain brands can burn plants spray in dark as less stress on the plant

 

[kidcole99]

Don't waste your cash on any products for the mites. They won't do the trick and you will more than likely damage the plant which defeats the purpose. Every Spinisad product I've gotten from the grow store has damaged my plants before doing nothing to the mites.

I'm am currently mite free.

You want to continue with your grow, clearly because you wont be able to get plants going again until november, which is not ideal.

Having spider mites is not the end of the world unless you let it be. If you don't do some manual labor to disrupt the spidermites then it could be a lost cause, but thats not you. You don't PLAY GAMES. Not when it comes to your boo thang Mary Jane!

Before you spray and pray, see what you can do manually in terms of brushing off or crushing mites from each plant. If you can decrease the populations 75% buy just manual efforts (no sprays), then that is going to make you feel a lot better about dealing with the issue at hand.

I don't want to make this too long but I'll show you a technique I use for my plants.

1. Check each plant for damage.
2. Start with the plants most effected by spider mites.
3. Get comfortable where you can sit down with the plant, and go through each branch systematically, pinching leaves and crushing mites, or use a more general technique in grabbing the branches at their base, one at a time and running your hands on the under sides of the leaves to the top of the branch (cola, shoot, you get it).
4. Once the plant has been gone through you can put it back, and move on to the next plant. This does not have to be perfect, and is just a method of disruption.

The method here is not to eliminate the mites right away, but to decrease the pest pressure to a point that is sustainable and where the plant will not suffer more damage and pest pressure than it can handle.

What most people don't realize is that the plant can detect when its being attacked, and natural defenses can be activated which will act as a natural pesticide, and allow the plant to regain its strength, vigor, and immune defence. It's very rewarding to see this take place, where the plants fight off the pests just as much as you do.

I've done this to a 20'x15' room in a few hours, repeat weekly.

Like I said, you don't need to eliminate the bugs completely, but just bring the pest pressure down to an acceptable level to where the growth of your crop outperforms the weight of pest pressure.

Help the plant out with the manual labor, if you need a video I can post one of the technique I use to disrupt the bugs. Neem is a 100% no no during flower. Spinosad will damage your leaves and destroy your plant if you dont use it in a dilute enough form. And when you dilute it, it just does not work at all, and still may damage your new growth to the point where your plant is now stunted completely.

It should pay to keep this plant going and minimize any products you spray on the plant, as there are safer methods that produce just as good results.

I'll watch this thread and see how it progresses. In the mean time maybe a picture from further back to see the scope of what we are dealing with here, and maybe we can come up with a more suitable regimen to keep the pest pressure down. Comprimises here and there.

I hope you decide to tough it out and see what you can do before grabbing a product to try and treat the plant. Better to be safe than sorry.

I was always in the camp of a healthy plant can do most of the pest controll on its own. Wouldn't have survived thousands of years on this earth- or more- if it couldn't. Will it need some help at times- of course. But let the plant do the heavy lifting. If healthy. If not- dif story.

 

[ev.dawgy]

Watch out bud for spraying insecticide to strong certain brands can burn plants spray in dark as less stress on the plant

I was always in the camp of a healthy plant can do most of the pest controll on its own. Wouldn't have survived thousands of years on this earth- or more- if it couldn't. Will it need some help at times- of course. But let the plant do the heavy lifting. If healthy. If not- dif story.

Spot on @kidcole99. It's great seeing yours plants grow better and better as it becomes stronger and stronger. When I last dealt with pests you could see, once the plant got growing vigorously enough, the newer and larger leaves just had less and less damage to them.

I need this plant for chronic pain, and I'm not going to taint the product with anything if I can help it.

There is nothing wrong though with what is being done here though. @Willisbrow doesn't plant on spraying the plants down during flower.

We shall see if the products used take care of the mite problem "once and for all".

 

[kidcole99]

Spot on @kidcole99. It's great seeing yours plants grow better and better as it becomes stronger and stronger. When I last dealt with pests you could see, once the plant got growing vigorously enough, the newer and larger leaves just had less and less damage to them.

I need this plant for chronic pain, and I'm not going to taint the product with anything if I can help it.

There is nothing wrong though with what is being done here though. @Willisbrow doesn't plant on spraying the plants down during flower.

We shall see if the products used take care of the mite problem "once and for all".

Last grow- used lady bugs. Helped but didnt eradicate. Was a few weeks into flower. Went to local hydro store and got some central cost green cleaner. All natural ingredients. That's the only thing I would use. Worked well.

 

[ev.dawgy]

Last grow- used lady bugs. Helped but didnt eradicate. Was a few weeks into flower. Went to local hydro store and got some central cost green cleaner. All natural ingredients. That's the only thing I would use. Worked well.

I'm relistning to an old podcast that may interest you. It's from Tas Hussey's (KIS Organics) podcast, and he's speaking to David Bernarn Perron, who was at the time the lead agrologist from Whistler Medical Marijuana Corp. They later got bought out by Aurora.

In the professional facility there are pest pressures throughout the entire grow. They use multiple different kinds of predators and keep the pests to acceptable levels. They are never 100% free of pests.

Here is the link if you are interested, very good information on the processes involved with running organic production, how they till and top dress, with what, and when, etc...

Host a great information throughout the rest of the podcasts as well, so choose your topic.

 

[Willisbrow]

The spinosad was 2 or 4 TBS for half a gallon. I used Dr zymes today. And that was kinda a lot. It called for 4 ounces for same half a gallon. (For eradication).
I’m not gonna use these thing past week 2 of flower. Maybe not past week 1. Im planning on flipping in a week and if they aren’t gone by 2-3 weeks think I will kill my crop and wait till November. I won’t spray on actual buds. I might have spray in nugglets. I have to visit my dad and we t be back till Thursday so I’ll spray with spinosad when I get back home again.

 

[kidcole99]

I'm relistning to an old podcast that may interest you. It's from Tas Hussey's (KIS Organics) podcast, and he's speaking to David Bernarn Perron, who was at the time the lead agrologist from Whistler Medical Marijuana Corp. They later got bought out by Aurora.

In the professional facility there are pest pressures throughout the entire grow. They use multiple different kinds of predators and keep the pests to acceptable levels. They are never 100% free of pests.

Here is the link if you are interested, very good information on the processes involved with running organic production, how they till and top dress, with what, and when, etc...

Host a great information throughout the rest of the podcasts as well, so choose your topic.

Def will bookmark and listen. Btw- the green cleaner helped the plant get stronger and take over pest control.

 

[kidcole99]

The spinosad was 2 or 4 TBS for half a gallon. I used Dr zymes today. And that was kinda a lot. It called for 4 ounces for same half a gallon. (For eradication).
I’m not gonna use these thing past week 2 of flower. Maybe not past week 1. Im planning on flipping in a week and if they aren’t gone by 2-3 weeks think I will kill my crop and wait till November. I won’t spray on actual buds. I might have spray in nugglets. I have to visit my dad and we t be back till Thursday so I’ll spray with spinosad when I get back home again.

If the spray doesn't work- wait a week and try predatory mites. Worth a shot. Better than packing it in.

 

[Itscheese94]

If the spray doesn't work- wait a week and try predatory mites. Worth a shot. Better than packing it in.

Once my friend had spider mite so we ordered lots of lady bugs they kinda of did the job but we where finding them months afters the grow in his room very resilient lil buggers they are