Seedsman “Juicy Zkittlez” auto flower. FIRST REAL TIME 🤦‍♂️

[climbit]

First time here.

grow medium / about 2 gallons of soil in a 3 gallon fabric pot. Perhaps a touch more.
-ocean forest soil
-Dr.Verm’s worm cast
-one tablespoon 4-4-4 Gia green mixed at the halfway point of the pot
-two tablespoons of 2-8-4 Gia green mixed in at the lower half of the pot
-perlite
-Great white mycorrhiza

The grow light I’m using isn’t entirely ideal but as advertised it meets the requirements for flower (at least 800umol - 1000umol). 12 inches away from the center of the light should provide me with 1100umol. I should add that I’m not growing in a tent or anything fancy so I’ve got it close to a south facing window which gets great direct sun on good days. I’ve even got the blinds completely down covering said window after noticing some slight drooping of the truer leaves. Everything is kosher now.

Amazon.com

I’ve got it placed around 20 inches away from the very top of the small seedling. This, I estimate, should provide around 350umol of light. It’s an estimate! If you check the link above there’s a slideshow of pictures that shows the ppfd measurements at certain heights. this is how I geusstimated.

I’m super brand new but I have applied a considerable amount of mental energy into this grow. Any advice would be much appreciated!!!

PS; I posted this already, I think in a different subcategory forum and it got no traction so I’m reposting it here. Since then the seedling has progressed quite nicely in my opinion, decent to minimal strecth - picture below. Will update with progression photo on day 1 of week 2.

 

[ArtfulCodger]

Two things to consider. First, Ocean Forest is a heavily amended soil, and you've amended it some more. Keep an eye out for signs of over-feeding. Second, if you're not supplementing CO2, 1100 umols/m²/s is a lot of light in soil, even to finish. Keep an eye out for signs of light stress. Let the plant tell you what it needs.

 

[Imzzaudae]

I'm thinking that you need to re pot your seedling asap.
Ocean forest is a very hot soil to start with. It alone will be about all your seedling can handle.
As the tap rood will drill deep very quickly. It will likely be into the amended layers in another week maybe 2.

Adding the other amendments will likely make the already very hot soil not survivable for your plant.
I wish ya luck bud but I'm thinking you have a recipe for nitrogen toxicity - unsurvivable nutrient burn.

For an Auto light and fluffy is the name of the game. I'd suggest 50% ocean Forest and 50% quality peat based potting mix and worm castings if you wish. Add 50% buy volume Perlite. No other amendments for 15-30 days as needed.

As for the light I'd like to know a little more about it. Also sounds like overkill !

I'm not trying to be mean or beat ya up bud but this is what I'm seeing here.
Wish I did not have to be so negative. I'm sure a few others will chime in. Lets see what they have to say.

 

[climbit]

Two things to consider. First, Ocean Forest is a heavily amended soil, and you've amended it some more. Keep an eye out for signs of over-feeding. Second, if you're not supplementing CO2, 1100 umols/m²/s is a lot of light in soil, even to finish. Keep an eye out for signs of light stress. Let the plant tell you what it needs.

Fuck bro. hearing this is such a buzzkill. the Gia green says to use 3tbsps per gallon of media, when I was setting up the soil I purposely put less cause it seemed like hella. And I have the seedling quite a distance from the grow light, like 20 some inches - I’m going by the photo in the link I provided plus I have the blinds shut in my room. Thanks for the advice.

 

[climbit]

I'm thinking that you need to re pot your seedling asap.
Ocean forest is a very hot soil to start with. It alone will be about all your seedling can handle.
As the tap rood will drill deep very quickly. It will likely be into the amended layers in another week maybe 2.

Adding the other amendments will likely make the already very hot soil not survivable for your plant.
I wish ya luck bud but I'm thinking you have a recipe for nitrogen toxicity - unsurvivable nutrient burn.

For an Auto light and fluffy is the name of the game. I'd suggest 50% ocean Forest and 50% quality peat based potting mix and worm castings if you wish. Add 50% buy volume Perlite. No other amendments for 15-30 days as needed.

As for the light I'd like to know a little more about it. Also sounds like overkill !

I'm not trying to be mean or beat ya up bud but this is what I'm seeing here.
Wish I did not have to be so negative. I'm sure a few others will chime in. Lets see what they have to say.

Since the soil is hotter would countering this with lower temps help me balance it out? And I don’t have the seedling very close to the light at all and ive got the blinds all the way down and closed on the window closest to it.

 

[climbit]

Bro when I watch Mr.Cannucks grow he puts legit 4tbsps of 4-4-4 per gallon of media along with the 2-8-4. I know he’s using the Gia green soil but even still that seems hella to me. And that’s also one tbsp more than the recommended amount. Fuck bro!

this is where I’m at rn.

 

[ArtfulCodger]

Fuck bro. hearing this is such a buzzkill. the Gia green says to use 3tbsps per gallon of media, when I was setting up the soil I purposely put less cause it seemed like hella. And I have the seedling quite a distance from the grow light, like 20 some inches - I’m going by the photo in the link I provided plus I have the blinds shut in my room. Thanks for the advice.

Hey, you've got a plant and it's alive. Seeing what light you're running, I have a better understanding of your setup. The manufacturer is getting 1100 ppfd by having the light very close to the top of the plant. When you said 1100, I assumed you were running some monster of a light. Generally, we want about 30 watts of LED per square foot of canopy. So a 24W LED light can flower a little less than one square foot of canopy well. And all your soil amendments are organic, so over-feeding might not be as big of a risk, since they'll take longer to become plant-available. Good luck!

 

[climbit]

Hey, you've got a plant and it's alive. Seeing what light you're running, I have a better understanding of your setup. The manufacturer is getting 1100 ppfd by having the light very close to the top of the plant. When you said 1100, I assumed you were running some monster of a light. Generally, we want about 30 watts of LED per square foot of canopy. So a 24W LED light can flower a little less than one square foot of canopy well. And all your soil amendments are organic, so over-feeding might not be as big of a risk, since they'll take longer to become plant-available. Good luck!

Bro you deadass just gave me so much fucking anxiety. I put hella consideration into this grow and to hear what you said broke me. also for the beginning stages of the plants life doesn’t it focus on root growth? I’m thinking that some of the nutrients the plant will uptake and use will go into root development then the focus shifts to the foliage once the plant decides it’s time. in theory, wouldn't this mean not all of the nitrogen goes into the leaves? Or is nitrogen just mainly for producing foliage? I hope I’m making sense. thank you brother

also once flower comes around I was going to have another grow bulb thats just red to better help with flower, plus I’ve got it next to a really great window.

 

[ArtfulCodger]

I know it's tough with a first grow, but you've got to try to relax. If you read what I wrote, I just said you have some things to keep an eye on. It's a process, and there will be issues to deal with. Take good notes, and try to pay attention to what the plant tells you.

 

[Eledin]

So far is looking good but the light is only 24W, never ever, specially when buying from amazon, believe the "insertW equivalent". A 300W HPS eats that bulb alive in terms of lumens. Dont worry I think many of us have fallen for it, first thing when you go to buy LEDs is "oh wow, just with that little" then turns out that the light can barely keep a cactus alive. Anyway, I think you will be able to get a decent top bud if you keep the light close enough, and going LED is fairly expensive if you wanna do it right compared to HPS so its better to talk with someone who knows what theyre talking about when you want to buy a LED for growing proper weed. So, considering that the plant has not much light to work with (it does for now cause its small) and that the soil is ammended yeah, I think thats your main focus, keeping an eye on overfertilization. How much they can eat is not only genetics, if they get plenty of light you can feed them more, if they dont get so much you should watch out. Its your first grow, its 1 plant and the LED was probably mad cheap anyway, so just take it as a learning experience with a reward in the end. Here you can see more or less how the leaves look like if they have a problem going on (sometimes its normal to get a deep green, specially if your soil has plenty of nitrogen so unless you see something else like leaves clawing ignore that)

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[Eledin]

I left out something important. Can you link the bloom light that you have purchased? If its pink dont even use it, keep the white one, unless it has way more Watts. Pink light gives way less lumens than cool white (which is the one youre using now). Cool white also gives some red so if they are the same Watts keep the white one for the sake of your plant.

 

[climbit]

I left out something important. Can you link the bloom light that you have purchased? If its pink dont even use it, keep the white one, unless it has way more Watts. Pink light gives way less lumens than cool white (which is the one youre using now). Cool white also gives some red so if they are the same Watts keep the white one for the sake of your plant.

The light Im using now is full spectrum, here’s the link. And as far as watts go I thought the PPFD output was the main measurement to concern You’re self with. I can always buy some beefier shit before I hit flower I’m just on a budget.

Amazon.com

plus like I’ve said it’s next to a south facing window that gets good sun on sunny days. I also haven’t bought that bloom light I mentioned. I was going to buy it when I’m in veg. Also I’m not even in the vegetative stage yet and I’ve got the blinds down and closed on the window closest to the plant. I’m gradually bringing it closer to the light source and observing for any problems. Yeah it might not be equivalent to a 300w light I suspected so myself, but surely it does put out 1100umol at 12 inches. Also I can lst in 25-30 days to flatten it out and increase the coverage? I’m pretty confident I will succeed.

and to help with over fertilization, as you stated, I can either bring it closer to the light or bring up the blinds allowing More natural light to settle in my room or both for a double whammy. I’ve watched a podcast with “Tourette grower” and “Mr. grow it” on growing autoflowers and the Tourette grower says he amends his ocean forest soil with organic fertilizer, then once more top dresses once pistils start to blossom.

 

[Eledin]

Yes, cool white has "full spectrum" meaning from blue to red, but it lacks UV, far red and deep red, so its not trully full spectrum if we wanna get technical but you can perfectly grow without them. Lumens is just the raw output of the bulb, it translates later on in the PPFD chart to umols/m2/s What Im basically saying is that they give more light if I say they give more lumens, its the same in the end. Pink bulbs give way lower umols/m2/s (you see why I prefeer to use lumens xD) than cool white, which goes from 4000k to 6500K, you have 4000K so it gives more red than other cool whites, more balanced for growing and flowering, its in the middle between cool white and warm white so it can suit well for flowering if it gives more lumens. You can bring it fairly close, its hard to burn your plant with a 24W LED bulb. If you start noticing yellowing of the tips only on top of the plant they might be uncomfortable with them so close but otherwise youre good. In flower you might wanna increase distance if the heat is reaching the cola. Im sure you will get it going! Specially considering it has light from outside aswell. Have you tested the umols at 12 inches? Because I highly doubt its 1100umol with 24W, they dont have any problem lying about that.

 

[Eledin]

I was just looking at the chart and it says 276umol at 2 feet, so its way less than 1100umol at 13 inches. Im from Europe so I gotta translate to cm but doing the math it shows, youre getting 200+umol at 12 inches. To get 1100umols at that distance you would need a 100W+ LED.

 

[climbit]

Yes, cool white has "full spectrum" meaning from blue to red, but it lacks UV, far red and deep red, so its not trully full spectrum if we wanna get technical but you can perfectly grow without them. Lumens is just the raw output of the bulb, it translates later on in the PPFD chart to umols/m2/s What Im basically saying is that they give more light if I say they give more lumens, its the same in the end. Pink bulbs give way lower umols/m2/s (you see why I prefeer to use lumens xD) than cool white, which goes from 4000k to 6500K, you have 4000K so it gives more red than other cool whites, more balanced for growing and flowering, its in the middle between cool white and warm white so it can suit well for flowering if it gives more lumens. You can bring it fairly close, its hard to burn your plant with a 24W LED bulb. If you start noticing yellowing of the tips only on top of the plant they might be uncomfortable with them so close but otherwise youre good. In flower you might wanna increase distance if the heat is reaching the cola. Im sure you will get it going! Specially considering it has light from outside aswell. Have you tested the umols at 12 inches? Because I highly doubt its 1100umol with 24W, they dont have any problem lying about that.

I suspect that it is falsely advertised and I have no way of knowing for sure. I’m using the bull shit light meter, the ones you get in the App Store. fucking A. Do you think, once I reach the flower stage, it would be better to get just a far red light or another one of the same grow light I have already? The one i linked you. Or just ditch the shit entirely and get some official shit?

 

[Eledin]

I usually dont recommend bluerples because of the poor energy efficiency and spectrum but if you wanna introduce UV and IR while giving extra blue and red there's no cheap option besides a bluerple bulb with UV and IR. I would say youre better off complementing the one you already have in flower with one of these:

Amazon.com

I would recommend the 50W or 80W ones because they have 6 UV and IR chips, the 30W one only has 2 UV and 2 IR plus being bluerple youre gonna make good use of those extra Watts.
That said, you dont necessarily need to if it gets plenty of light from outside in your window. Solar light already has UV and IR, so I guess it depends on the ammount of light they get. By using another bulb you will increase yield nonetheless tho, and the capacity of the plant to work faster and take more nutrients to do so. Youre far from the cap where more light is not better.

 

[climbit]

I usually dont recommend bluerples because of the poor energy efficiency but if you wanna introduce UV and IR while giving extra blue and red there's no cheap option besides a bluerple bulb with UV and IR. I would say youre better off complementing the one you already have in flower with one of these:

Amazon.com

I would recommend the 50W or 80W ones because they have 6 UV and IR chips, the 30W one only has 2 UV and 2 IR plus being bluerple youre gonna make good use of those extra Watts.
That said, you dont necessarily need to if it gets plenty of light from outside in your window. Solar light already has UV and IR, so I guess it depends on the ammount of light they get. By using another bulb you will increase yield nonetheless tho, and the capacity of the plant to work faster and take more nutrients to do so. Youre far from the cap where more light is not better.

Thanks for the advice bro. I hope everything goes smoothly. I’ll keep updating this post, please check back every know and then.

 

[Eledin]

Thanks for the advice bro. I hope everything goes smoothly. I’ll keep updating this post, please check back every know and then.

No problem, thats what we are here for. If you ever plan on getting an indoor tent plenty of people here can help you with what LEDs you could use depending on the size of the tent. For now, every time somebody posts in here it will appear in my notifications so dont worry Ill stick around. Another thing to consider is that which such bulbs the umols will drop heavily if the plant is not directly under the bulbs, so if youre gonna use 2 try for the plant to be in the middle of them directly below them if possible.

 

[climbit]

No problem, thats what we are here for. If you ever plan on getting an indoor tent plenty of people here can help you with what LEDs you could use depending on the size of the tent. For now, every time somebody posts in here it will appear in my notifications so dont worry Ill stick around. Another thing to consider is that which such bulbs the umols will drop heavily if the plant is not directly under the bulbs, so if youre gonna use 2 try for the plant to be in the middle of them or directly below them if possible.

Certainly. Yo real quick you stated the spectrum on burple lights suck, is that because they lack white light while the blue and red ratios are higher ?

also since I’m using great white mycorrhizae could this help with the stress of over fertilization ? Or is that just wishful thinking?

 

[Eledin]

To explain further I need to show you a graph. White includes blue, cyan, green, yellow and red. Blues on the other hand only include blue, and reds only include red, so with bluerple youre losing everything in between and the energy efficiency of white leds is much higher too, so white gives more umols than blue or red. That said, if you wanna have IR you need red IR chips, but not regular red chips, and for UV youre gonna need blue UV diodes, but not regular blue diodes. The best panels are a combination of warm white, cool white and UV and IR diodes, sometimes some regular reds to balance the spectrum towards flowering a bit more.
Here is what you get with blurple without UV and IR

Here is what you get with full spectrum white LED depending on the color temperature (yours is 4000K)

And here is what you would get with a trully full spectrum that includes UV and IR

The wavelenght will change depending on the manufacturer but its just so you get an idea. Full spectrum quality LED panels come with warm white, cool white a few reds and UV and IR diodes. They dont use blue diodes, sometimes Ive seen cyan diodes just because cyan is the color that lacks the most to be more like the spectrum of the sun but thats a rarity to see. They only use 660nm red chips to complement the spike of blue in cool white. 740nm is IR and 440nm is UV.
EDIT: Many good panels might lack UV, because compared to IR is not very important. Its nice to have it but studies on how it affects the trichome production are not enough and inconclusive, max that has been documented was an increase of 6% in trichomes by introducing UV. But besides trichome production there might be more beneficial effects for the plant since thats how they grow in the wild and they learn to make use of every form of light for one thing or another.