Boomer's Ocean Grown 5k watt ScrOG Lab w/ c02

[Boomer242]

Nothin but good plants here ( As usual :) ) Ya thats some foxtailing for sure, but hey i think the nugs look cool kinda when they do that, Until they start to try and make another nug off that, i had some early foxtailing and ended up with some weird nugs with nugs growing off them, wish i had some pics to show but my damn computer ate a big pile of shit on me so i lost a bunch, What do you think your gana get off these tables? Better then the last round? I'd go look at your last round but im lazy :) Keep em Growin Man!!!

ya i guess its not that big a deal, just strange appearrance. im not sure wat to expect this round on weight. being a lower yielding strain i dont expect anything crazy. table 1 doesnt look all that great and was a good learning curve but im still thinkin 2lbs dried from table 1 and hopefully 3lbs dried from table 2.

last round i lost 3 plants to pathogen attack and yielded 5lbs dried total. so not too bad.

Go to home depot and buy tie down straps for the back of your car (they have 4 or 6 packs for like 20 bucks). You can easily adjust them and some hold up to 500+ pounds which is more than you will ever need.

I use those for my lights and have never looked back :)

FWIW, they are the blue straps that hold up my magnum xxl.

good tip bro i mite consider that for the shop setup using this equip. for the larger setup running UC i plan to do a pulley system.

 

[leadsled]

I read the your thread. unfortunately I have read the directions for forbid. I liked what I was seeing until I got to this page.

But to be honest this reminds me of something that is a pretty sad situation. But is way too common.

It brings up the question.Are you going to take them plants another 4 to 8 weeks?

This is a medical collective grow which i have been contracted out as a member grower protected by SB 420 and PROP 215 in california. I have seeked expensive and professional legal advice from a specialist attorney in this field and have all the proper paperwork and documentation. All meds grown will be taken to the collective.

This latter is the part that is kinda messed up.
Maybe you are not aware of the facts, if so do not take offense to me. If you are aware of the facts and have read the forbid directions.

Are you still planning on smoking the buds yourself?

I hope that you understand the potential harm you could be causing. A residual of 4 to 8 weeks mean the forbid pesticide will be in finished product. Do you know it will cause harm do you know it is safe?

Improperly using pesticides is kinda screwed up.
What if that caused harm to a patient in your collective? or maybe here is one you can relate to.. yourself?

Supposedly forbid does not attribute to the pest resistance problem. But the directions kinda points out this is not the intended application of the product. ok I understand that people use products for other things than they are intended for.

But cmon, please at least try and be more responsible. Waiting so long to let things get out of hand, you could have stopped the mites or let them go and you wouldhave caused less damage.

I want safe clean medicine. Given your choices, I think I would choose some mite shit over some forbid residue. Hey but maybe you didn't know any better. I still think there is no excuse for subjecting sick people to unsafe medicine.

Hope this is taken as education and not a bash. Hey maybe it isn't my place to say something but this is some fucked up shit.

 

[Boomer242]

I read the your thread. unfortunately I have read the directions for forbid. I liked what I was seeing until I got to this page.

But to be honest this reminds me of something that is a pretty sad situation. But is way too common.

It brings up the question.Are you going to take them plants another 4 to 8 weeks?




This latter is the part that is kinda messed up.
Maybe you are not aware of the facts, if so do not take offense to me. If you are aware of the facts and have read the forbid directions.

Are you still planning on smoking the buds yourself?

I hope that you understand the potential harm you could be causing. A residual of 4 to 8 weeks mean the forbid pesticide will be in finished product. Do you know it will cause harm do you know it is safe?

Improperly using pesticides is kinda screwed up.
What if that caused harm to a patient in your collective? or maybe here is one you can relate to.. yourself?

Supposedly forbid does not attribute to the pest resistance problem. But the directions kinda points out this is not the intended application of the product. ok I understand that people use products for other things than they are intended for.

But cmon, please at least try and be more responsible. Waiting so long to let things get out of hand, you could have stopped the mites or let them go and you wouldhave caused less damage.

I want safe clean medicine. Given your choices, I think I would choose some mite shit over some forbid residue. Hey but maybe you didn't know any better. I still think there is no excuse for subjecting sick people to unsafe medicine.

Hope this is taken as education and not a bash. Hey maybe it isn't my place to say something but this is some fucked up shit.

thanks?

 

[Boomer242]

Horz or Vert?

Still doin lots of R&D on which lighting method i want to use for the next setup. vert is all new to me in experience but im thinkin of leaning towards horizontal lighting and maybe a scrog. im changing everything around now that im finding new info and gotta change the Under Current bucket layouts if im not plannin on doin a vert setup.

so many diff things to consider and followin so many diff UC grows. its interesting to see all the diff concepts out there but any ideas plz feel free to share.

 

[A6 Grower]

thanks?

LOL! my thoughts exectly!:middlefinger

 

[crom]

leadsled does have a point though. It wouldn't be fair to the patients if you were giving them a product that is possibly going to do any harm to them. Mites are a pain in the ass but if you have webs like that then yeah you have had them for a minute. Best of luck eradicating those pests as safely as possible.

Cheers,
Crom

 

[Boomer242]

i plan to run table 1 for another couple weeks and havent sprayed it nearly the same as table 2 where the mites actually are. i flush extensively as is for a week or two and thats wat i was instructed to do to flush the forbid out and should not have any issues. ive got 4 weeks of flower left easy. depends on trichs color. i appreciate the concern guys i was not told that. the bottle was not a packaged bottle, just an eye dropper.

 

[crom]

It's all good Boomer242. I was just tossing my 2 cents in on the matter sorry if I disrupted anything. As for SCOG goes I might give my SSSDH a run in a SCROG set up. I'll let you know the link if I do a thread. :passingjoint:

Cheers,
Crom

 

[Cruzer101]

Hey Boomer,
Looks like you got a bit more height this time around, nice pics.
You were asking about foxtail buds, Heres my opinion.

Here I see several calyxes (look like triangle tiny thick leaves kinda) growing on top of one another.

http://i837.invalid.com/albums/zz299/BudLust/IMG_0722.jpg

Looks like the Trainwreck I grew.

From what I understand Foxtail buds are long and skinny with a bunch of hairs. Looks more like a fox's tail.


That guy and the forbid, I think what he was getting at is the shit may still be in the finished product. That shit penetrates and kills the eggs right? Every growers dream but is it safe? I dont know man. I bought some on eBay but chickened out and tossed it after reading it stays in the plant so long. I battle the dam things with neem/soap solution at the beginning of flower. Try to keep the temps around 70° Then foggers, dr doom and commercial actin foggers like Integra uses. Sure would be nice to spray and forget though.

 

[Boomer242]

Hey Boomer,
Looks like you got a bit more height this time around, nice pics.
You were asking about foxtail buds, Heres my opinion.

Here I see several calyxes (look like triangle tiny thick leaves kinda) growing on top of one another.

http://i837.invalid.com/albums/zz299/BudLust/IMG_0722.jpg

Looks like the Trainwreck I grew.

From what I understand Foxtail buds are long and skinny with a bunch of hairs. Looks more like a fox's tail.


That guy and the forbid, I think what he was getting at is the shit may still be in the finished product. That shit penetrates and kills the eggs right? Every growers dream but is it safe? I dont know man. I bought some on eBay but chickened out and tossed it after reading it stays in the plant so long. I battle the dam things with neem/soap solution at the beginning of flower. Try to keep the temps around 70° Then foggers, dr doom and commercial actin foggers like Integra uses. Sure would be nice to spray and forget though.

ya its def a foxtail. the lamps were way too low. i dont like the heighth, its not wat i planned. table 1 was giving me issues from the beginning. table 2 is going better since i made sum adjustments.

the forbid stays in the plant for 21 days and needs to be flushed out. bug bombs are also not good in flower but as u mentioned, u got to use sumthing that works.

No one has offered a better solution, so i propose; Put up or Shut up method.

anyways thanks cruz i know u were dealin with mites in ur greenhouse and i was waiting for them to hit me. im moving locations after this harvest so im not worried. i got a few weeks to flower out and push these ladies into amber trichs. thus long flush and clean product.

 

[Boomer242]

Drying room enviroment...

Id like to discuss the drying room enviroment for drying nugs. my dry racks are screen shelfs in a closet. last harvest i bveleive they dried too fast due to high temps 85*-90*. id have to look at my notes for the RH% but from wat i was readin the drying enviroment reflects the drying quality and process.

i remember reading the drying temps should be 75* and i would have to double check wat the RH% was but let me know wat tips and theories u guys have.

i do think hang drying is best but i dont have the space for that with one large harvest. i believe drying/curing is one of the most important parts to gettin the final product grade A quality. so i want to do a slower dry and even. then jar at the right time and let it cure correctly.

i bought a hygrometer that fits in my 1gal glass jars so i know the temp and RH%. i mite buy more to have a more even read between all 20jars.
- i think i remember readin sumones thread who used this method and mentioned RH% in the jar is supposed to b like 70% and temps at 75*? ill have to go find it.


anyways let me know wat u guys think. gotta get the drying area ready in the next couple weeks. labor day weekend set me bak so i still havent finished the chiller.

 

[Boomer242]

Flower Room Update (week 7 & 8)

Table 1;
PH @ 6.0
PPM @ 1250

Table 2;
PH @ 5.9
PPM @ 1600

Rez temp @ 80*
C02 PPM @ 1300
Room Temp @ 82* 60%


Attempting to finish installing the chiller today. needed to split the tubing to the cooling coils. pretty easy shit. if u can play with building blocks, u can install a chiller.
Too bad its this late in the game but better late then never.

Weve been spending more time at the shop planning supplies out and gettin all the rental equip lined up. despite my fuckd up knees im gonna clear out and build out the shop with my pops and partner.
Should only take a couple days but lots of repairs and cleaning to do. hopefully we get it moving so after this harvest i can move everything over and start up the UC grow with more lamps.

Anyways heres sum pix to keep u entertained :joint:

Table 1



http://i837.invalid.com/albums/zz299/BudLust/IMG_0736.jpg

http://i837.invalid.com/albums/zz299/BudLust/IMG_0737.jpg


http://i837.invalid.com/albums/zz299/BudLust/IMG_0738.jpg


http://i837.invalid.com/albums/zz299/BudLust/IMG_0739.jpg

http://i837.invalid.com/albums/zz299/BudLust/IMG_0740.jpg


Table 2


http://i837.invalid.com/albums/zz299/BudLust/IMG_0742.jpg



http://i837.invalid.com/albums/zz299/BudLust/IMG_0743.jpg


http://i837.invalid.com/albums/zz299/BudLust/IMG_0744.jpg


http://i837.invalid.com/albums/zz299/BudLust/IMG_0745.jpg


http://i837.invalid.com/albums/zz299/BudLust/IMG_0747.jpg


http://i837.invalid.com/albums/zz299/BudLust/IMG_0748.jpg

 

[CelticEBE]

Hey Boomer.....I asked you before but I think it got skipped over. Did you ever consider ladybugs for the mites?

 

[leadsled]

thanks?

Your welcome. Hope you realize I am only trying to help.

I assumed that maybe you were not properly educated and then used forbid not knowing all the facts.

In trying to help you understand the facts. My wording is strong because I feel it is fucked up that this happens to sick people (and healthy ones).

I see the results of lab testing. Send those buds to a lab and you will see I am serious about residual.

Forbid is no joke. 30 to 60 days residual Not 21

 

[Bobby Smith]

Hey Boom, nice update.

Sucks about the mites, but shit happens.

Definitely a foxtail.

As far as drying, I forget where I read it, but I came across some thread where the dude was a fucking fanatic about drying - had alarms and sensors and shit in a specially constructed drying room - not like some plywood and a fan, like a walk in humidor type thing.

Anyways, if memory serves he kept his temp at 70-75F and RH somewhere around 60% - said it took about three weeks of hang drying before they were ready to jar.

Like you, I'm trying to step my drying game up and am gonna contruct a special hang-dry box soon - no more 4 day drys for me.

Oh, now I remember what I wanted to ask you - with your drain to waste, what size is your reservoir? How many gallons a day do you go through? Is there any kind of sizeable pH/EC swing in between changes? I realize they'd prolly not be anything like recirculating swings, but I've gotta believe nutes just chilling in a rez for a week are gonna have some form or reaction and swing the pH, no?

I'm back off the recirculating NFT with a chiller and back on the DTW kick.

 

[jimmygreen]

I completely agree with lead on the residual of 30-60 days. I actually did the same thing boomer did last year, saw mites, freaked out and talked to my shop and got a small amount of forbid. I used it twice and harvested 4 weeks later. I could tate something different than normal, and could only attribute it to forbid.
If you see them late in the game like that in the future, use a soap/water solution or at the very most a product like azamax that is is basically vegetable oil. it is still not reccomended. The key is to stay on a preventative plan. Alternate every few -5 days a system of forbid, avid and azamax all through veg epecially in your mother room.
just my .02

 

[A6 Grower]

Hey Boomer.....I asked you before but I think it got skipped over. Did you ever consider ladybugs for the mites?

he actually used predator mites, which kick ladybugs ass's lol.

 

[Boomer242]

Hey Boom, nice update.

Sucks about the mites, but shit happens.

Definitely a foxtail.

As far as drying, I forget where I read it, but I came across some thread where the dude was a fucking fanatic about drying - had alarms and sensors and shit in a specially constructed drying room - not like some plywood and a fan, like a walk in humidor type thing.

Anyways, if memory serves he kept his temp at 70-75F and RH somewhere around 60% - said it took about three weeks of hang drying before they were ready to jar.

Like you, I'm trying to step my drying game up and am gonna contruct a special hang-dry box soon - no more 4 day drys for me.

Oh, now I remember what I wanted to ask you - with your drain to waste, what size is your reservoir? How many gallons a day do you go through? Is there any kind of sizeable pH/EC swing in between changes? I realize they'd prolly not be anything like recirculating swings, but I've gotta believe nutes just chilling in a rez for a week are gonna have some form or reaction and swing the pH, no?

I'm back off the recirculating NFT with a chiller and back on the DTW kick.

the stats for drying temps sounds about right if i recall. ill look in my books before i make a decision.

for my two flower tables, i have 2x70gal rez underneath. honestly im still testing my watering schedule. it varies so idk exact gallons used per day. if id have to guess itd be sumthing like 10gal? figuring that i usually never fill all the way to 70gallons in the rez and i change the rez out every week. so should break down to 10gal/day right? i hope i can still count geez haha.

the ph swing is usually my doing... i talked with jack and he informed me of a few things i was doing wrong...

1. i add PH down to adjust where i want almost immediately after i add my new nute reg.
2. i pour an "estimated" amount of PH up/down directly into the rez which is acid and oops my bad...

anyways he mentioned to dilute the ph solution in a seperate container/cup before tossin in the rez.
also my RO ph is high, usually about 8.0+ so originally i was also pourin straight PH solution into the RO 200gall rez downstairs, and allowing it to adjust to the PH level i desired (5.6-6.1)
-issue with this is....
once i pump the fresh RO water from the 200gal rez up into the flower room rez, i also still need to add my nutes. When adding nutes theyre acidic and bring the PH down. Now lets say i put fresh RO in my emtpy 70gal rez and the PH is 6.0, then i add my nutes, it could b lik 4.5 or sum shit. then u gotta add UP then DOWN etc. ive overdone the ph up/down in my first round and saw sum bad results with it. this round ive been better about it but what the point of this rambling is that u should leave ur RO ph stasis then add ur nutes, wait a while and see where the PH swings too. this should help stabilize the rez ph. i havent done this enough myself to say its compeltely true, but im sure it is. anyways the other concept is that cannabis uptakes diff macro/micro nutes at diff stages in life and the uptake availability is based on the ph of thesolution. so letting ur rez swing from 5.5-6.3 is almost a good thing to allow the plant to uptake all possible nutes being fed. thats the theory at least and im testing it.

now im lookin bak laughin at how much i jsut wrote. hope it answered ur question if not plz ask again lol.

I completely agree with lead on the residual of 30-60 days. I actually did the same thing boomer did last year, saw mites, freaked out and talked to my shop and got a small amount of forbid. I used it twice and harvested 4 weeks later. I could tate something different than normal, and could only attribute it to forbid.
If you see them late in the game like that in the future, use a soap/water solution or at the very most a product like azamax that is is basically vegetable oil. it is still not reccomended. The key is to stay on a preventative plan. Alternate every few -5 days a system of forbid, avid and azamax all through veg epecially in your mother room.
just my .02

def doin more research and talked to the guys at GC and still is sayin ill be fine after 4weeks but i guess only time will tell. unfortunately its not my first option (as u can see i tried many others first) but like u said PREVENTION CONTROL is the best and really only method. i have now sat down to put together a whole lil lineup and charting it on my calendar for scheduled pest maintence basically lol. anyways thanks for the alternative method to use and positive demeanor.

Hey Boomer.....I asked you before but I think it got skipped over. Did you ever consider ladybugs for the mites?

ya ive used them off and on in both my veg and flower rooms. they usually suicide bomb the hids and die but if they stick around an dlive, that means they have food. which is bad for u... but honestly idk if the predaotr mites even work, not like u can see them in action or flying around like ladybugs, or lacewings. im thinkin the hot ticket mite be using the lacewings. they eat anything and each other if needed. mike mentioned he picked these up and i think hes right that they all over the best predator. predator mites only eat spider mites, not thirps and gnats etc. anyways another long answer... next... :rauch08:

he actually used predator mites, which kick ladybugs ass's lol.

i wish they kicked more ass and stopped the mites before webbing lol. oh well live and learn and changin shit up already for next round.

 

[blackduck]

Great Pics

 

[Integra21]

Have you considered bug bombs. I tried just about every product on the market trying to get rid of mites when I got them, and I got it dialed down to the two that worked best for me. The first was Organocide. It is a spray that kills mites and eggs on contact and is organic and safe to use up to the day of harves. This product worked very well, but if your like me(you are) it is very hard to do a complete spray with plants in a scrog. Although this worked very well for controlling them, I could never seem to get rid of them completely. Thats when I went heavy duty and found a really good industrial strenght greenhouse bug bomb. I tried the pyrithrin one and it worked, but they came back, but then I tried the Attain version from the same company and I haven seen a mite since and my flower and veg rooms have been mite free for over 6mo's now. I just set one of those off in each room and they were gone forever. If you go the bomb route, let me know so I can tell you the proper safety precautions.

Organocide


Attain bug bomb(this is the brand, but pyrithrin is pictured)