Tea Recipe

[click80]

I didn't know what E. Foot was so I looked it up...this is for anyone else out there that might want a little info on it...kinda interesting how they alleviated this.....

Additional index words. Capsicum annuum, physiological disorder, basal stem rot, irrigation,
fungus gnats.
Abstract. Sweet pepper (Capsicum annuum L.) is currently the vegetable crop with the
largest acreage under protected agriculture in Florida. The growing system for pepper is
characterized by the use of soilless media and frequent irrigation with a complete nutrient
solution. A physiological plant disorder not known to occur in soil-grown plants was
observed in two hydroponic greenhouse crops at Gainesville, FL. The stem became swollen
below the cotyledons node level, where longitudinal cracks developed on the epidermis.
Rotting occurred in these wounds and reached the internal stem vessels. Adventitious roots
abscised leading to a major reduction of water absorption. The affected plants wilted
suddenly with no diagnosable pathogenic disease. In other countries (i.e. Spain and
Canada), where greenhouse sweet pepper has been grown in soilless media, the disorder has
been termed “Elephant’s Foot”, based on a description of the stem appearance. Locating
irrigation emitters close to the stem may be directly related to a cause for this disorder.
Moving the emitter gradually away from the stem base partially helped to alleviate the
problem. In Spain and Canada the “Elephant’s Foot” disorder is avoided by transplanting
a young seedling up to the cotyledonary level into a rockwool block. The block is later
placed over a soilless media bag or rockwool slab. The irrigation emitter is moved from the
top to the base of the block once the roots grow into the container media. Factors other
than emitter location, such as irrigation and fertilization frequency, and/or the use of
certain soilless media per se might also lead to the development of “Elephant’s Foot”.
Additional research related to these factors is presently being conducted to determine the
cause and solution for the disorder. More information and knowledge about the factors
that cause the “Elephant’s Foot” disorder will help avoid this problem.

 

[Capulator]

I didn't know what E. Foot was so I looked it up...this is for anyone else out there that might want a little info on it...kinda interesting how they alleviated this.....

Additional index words. Capsicum annuum, physiological disorder, basal stem rot, irrigation,
fungus gnats.
Abstract. Sweet pepper (Capsicum annuum L.) is currently the vegetable crop with the
largest acreage under protected agriculture in Florida. The growing system for pepper is
characterized by the use of soilless media and frequent irrigation with a complete nutrient
solution. A physiological plant disorder not known to occur in soil-grown plants was
observed in two hydroponic greenhouse crops at Gainesville, FL. The stem became swollen
below the cotyledons node level, where longitudinal cracks developed on the epidermis.
Rotting occurred in these wounds and reached the internal stem vessels. Adventitious roots
abscised leading to a major reduction of water absorption. The affected plants wilted
suddenly with no diagnosable pathogenic disease. In other countries (i.e. Spain and
Canada), where greenhouse sweet pepper has been grown in soilless media, the disorder has
been termed “Elephant’s Foot”, based on a description of the stem appearance. Locating
irrigation emitters close to the stem may be directly related to a cause for this disorder.
Moving the emitter gradually away from the stem base partially helped to alleviate the
problem. In Spain and Canada the “Elephant’s Foot” disorder is avoided by transplanting
a young seedling up to the cotyledonary level into a rockwool block. The block is later
placed over a soilless media bag or rockwool slab. The irrigation emitter is moved from the
top to the base of the block once the roots grow into the container media. Factors other
than emitter location, such as irrigation and fertilization frequency, and/or the use of
certain soilless media per se might also lead to the development of “Elephant’s Foot”.
Additional research related to these factors is presently being conducted to determine the
cause and solution for the disorder. More information and knowledge about the factors
that cause the “Elephant’s Foot” disorder will help avoid this problem.

PLease post this in my thread in the infirmary. This is important info that all hydro growers shoudl know.

 

[Capulator]

For actual foliar feeding I would go light. Maybe 1/2 cup per 10 gallons.

EDIT: YOU MAY USE FULL CONCENTRATED TEA WITH NOTHING BUT POSITIVE EFFECTS.

 

[kushtrees]

So I lifted up a pot today, my neglected Alien OG mOm, and saw what looks like springtails. This plant isn't in the best shape cuz ive been busy and it's just a mom, so I wanted to make sure they are indeed springtails and not root aphids. They are long white bugs with anteana (sp?). Look a lot like the spring tail pic from the last page. I havent seen root aphids before (thank god) and It looks to me from pics online that they are more round shaped, not lOng white bugs like I have. Anyway to tell the difference for sure? This plant has been getting weekly ACT and just got nutes for the first time in a week oops. I'm thinking springtails because caps bennies would kill the root aphids, hopefully with nutes now it greens up it was getting lighter and lighter

 

[outwest]

EDIT: YOU MAY USE FULL CONCENTRATED TEA WITH NOTHING BUT POSITIVE EFFECTS.

This has been my first hand experience as well for both foliar and root drench, even for seedlings.

outwest

 

[click80]

So I lifted up a pot today, my neglected Alien OG mOm, and saw what looks like springtails. This plant isn't in the best shape cuz ive been busy and it's just a mom, so I wanted to make sure they are indeed springtails and not root aphids. They are long white bugs with anteana (sp?). Look a lot like the spring tail pic from the last page. I havent seen root aphids before (thank god) and It looks to me from pics online that they are more round shaped, not lOng white bugs like I have. Anyway to tell the difference for sure? This plant has been getting weekly ACT and just got nutes for the first time in a week oops. I'm thinking springtails because caps bennies would kill the root aphids, hopefully with nutes now it greens up it was getting lighter and lighter

sounds like it...if you go to Youtube and do search for Springtails in Hydro or maybe just Springtails there are a couple videos on there where you can get a good look....

 

[kushtrees]

looks like springtails! thats good news I was worried for a minute haha

 

[click80]

looks like springtails! thats good news I was worried for a minute haha

Just for an FYI, although I don't think this would apply in almost all cases in soiiless media, One article stated that, in your plant soil (or soil less media), if you find them in extreme abundance then most likely there is an imbalance in your soil, I cannot remember exactly the cause, lack of or overage of what, but if you find the population extreme, then hit me back and I will find the bookmark and post it. But extremeo in the sense of like thousands of them in a very small volume of soil. I am planning ( for weeks now ) on getting all these articles organized and maybe start a thread but i just don't have time right now. I keep getting stuck reading up on microbes...

 

[click80]

Also, I found out that if you are getting too much of a head of foam you can take care of it a number of ways.

Put a pantyhose, plastic lid, etc on top of bucket (yeah that's pretty obvious)
You can add a small amount of Vegetable oil. (I don't like that idea, that comes from the Bountea Company Kit instructions).
I found out yesterday that just about a half capful of GH cold processed BioMarine knocked it down to nothing. It didn't hurt it because the foam did start building back up but it took a few hours to build back up. I am thinking it works the same way that the Vegetable oil works...maybe an anti-surfactant? I just like the idea of adding something that could be added anyway.

 

[click80]

Does anyone know the approximate micron sizes that we should not be using to strain the tea's or has anyone read that some things should not be used to strain with as they might strain out some of the bennies also?

I am curious as I found more than one place say that stockings (the didn't specify what type but I am wondering if they mean pantyhose, or like mens nylon socks?) can keep some of the good stuff out.

 

[outwest]

I use a pain strainer.

outwest

 

[cctt]

Does anyone know the approximate micron sizes that we should not be using to strain the tea's or has anyone read that some things should not be used to strain with as they might strain out some of the bennies also?

I agree, it's interesting to hear what everyone uses, but I've heard no mention of the -best- micron size for the application. And I like to talk theory. Does anyone have any information about the particle size of the filler being used? Or the largest of the bennies that needs to make it through?

 

[outwest]

I agree, it's interesting to hear what everyone uses, but I've heard no mention of the -best- micron size for the application. And I like to talk theory. Does anyone have any information about the particle size of the filler being used? Or the largest of the bennies that needs to make it through?

The paint strainer let's visible solids through. . .so one can imagine that anything microscopic is making it through also.

outwest

 

[outwest]

Next time I brew, I'll make a little 'How I Brew' tutorial.

outwest

 

[click80]

I just remembered something...was just throwing away some info sheets I don't need anymore and I happened to glance down on the Gnatrol one because I had highlighted a part as a reminder to me...

It says to not use Gnatrol, which is the same as the Bacillus Thur. Israel (whatever) in the Foliar Pack, except its a "special strain" (bullshit) ....Anyway, it says to not mix with any Fertilizers containing Copper. I am assuming/wondering if that will apply to Caps as well? The reason I am wondering is because you need to use it for heavy infestations for I think 2-3 weeks, once weekly, because of the lifecycle of the larvae...etc. I have what I now in retrospect say is a heavy infestation, so once I start the reservoir tomorrow I will I guees reapply tea to reservoir and run it without anything with copper for about 48 hours, good time for a flush or something...

I think it takes 24 hours for the toxin in the BTi to get in the larvae and work and once the BTi starts producing the toxin it only persists for 48 hours, I know there was something about 48 hours that I read somewhere, The Gnatrol sheet just said the part about Copper and Chlorine......I am in the middle of throwing this other stuff out but will look this up tomorrow to make sure I am remembering right.

If anyone can add something, please do, I am typing off the top of my head...

 

[click80]

That warning is not, well it is very specific, but it says "when 'injecting' with fertilizers or fungicides that contain chlorine or copper." It follows that by saying that Chlorine levels in municipal potable waters supplies should not bother it. I wonder if it also might apply to the minute levels of copper in fertilizers compared to to the high levels of copper in fungicides. I probable am worrying over nothing. Here is the link, it's in section 10.0

 

[Capulator]

I just remembered something...was just throwing away some info sheets I don't need anymore and I happened to glance down on the Gnatrol one because I had highlighted a part as a reminder to me...

It says to not use Gnatrol, which is the same as the Bacillus Thur. Israel (whatever) in the Foliar Pack, except its a "special strain" (bullshit) ....Anyway, it says to not mix with any Fertilizers containing Copper. I am assuming/wondering if that will apply to Caps as well? The reason I am wondering is because you need to use it for heavy infestations for I think 2-3 weeks, once weekly, because of the lifecycle of the larvae...etc. I have what I now in retrospect say is a heavy infestation, so once I start the reservoir tomorrow I will I guees reapply tea to reservoir and run it without anything with copper for about 48 hours, good time for a flush or something...

I think it takes 24 hours for the toxin in the BTi to get in the larvae and work and once the BTi starts producing the toxin it only persists for 48 hours, I know there was something about 48 hours that I read somewhere, The Gnatrol sheet just said the part about Copper and Chlorine......I am in the middle of throwing this other stuff out but will look this up tomorrow to make sure I am remembering right.

If anyone can add something, please do, I am typing off the top of my head...

Use CONCENTRATED TEA as a top drench for those. AS soon as the larvae eat the bacteria they are toast. I would apply every three days for heavy infestation.

 

[cctt]

Is a foliar-pack-only tea expected to foam up? Mine has not at all after 24 hours. I'm using 2 gallons filtered water (not RO, but water here is very low EC (0.1)), 2 Tbsp spores, 30 ml GH floranectar sugar cane, 10 ml blackstrap molasses.

 

[Capulator]

Is a foliar-pack-only tea expected to foam up? Mine has not at all after 24 hours. I'm using 2 gallons filtered water (not RO, but water here is very low EC (0.1)), 2 Tbsp spores, 30 ml GH floranectar sugar cane, 10 ml blackstrap molasses.

Foliar pack is mostly fungi and some bacteria. the foam comes more from the root pack in my experience. Sometimes I dont get any foam at all. When I scope it though it looks very much alive and well.

with that mix I would have used earth juice hibrix @ 50ml. Not sure if the carb source matters as much . Black strap is great.

 

[click80]

Just to chime in....Just read about this a little while ago....

I got Dr. Ingams book and she brings up a good point. This only applies to ACT, meaning if you are shooting for exponential growth, but if the surface of your tea is covered in foam your DO is going to go down, sometimes drastically. It depends on a different things, like how your brewing, but if you are mainly relying of surface air exchange for your O2 then it just makes sense that having it covered in foam might start suffocating your ACT. She says to add a little bit of Vegetable Oil. NOT Canola or Olive for some reason, but Vegetable oil. I found out that throwing a tiny bit of GO's Biomarine knocked it right the hell down.