Tea Recipe

[click80]

Oh, and yeah that EJ High Brix is good shit, I don't know why, but I seem to get the best results with it.

 

[Disambiguator]

Aerated Compost Tea technology is in it's infancy and there is much to be learned.
No offense click 80, but while comments like: "Oh, and yeah that EJ High Brix is good shit, I don't know why, but I seem to get the best results with it." provide interesting anecdotal info, they are essentially useless to me as a grower unless elaborated on and presented within a context. ie
Tea recipe- the best way to use caps bennies!!!!

 

[click80]

I agree, it's interesting to hear what everyone uses, but I've heard no mention of the -best- micron size for the application. And I like to talk theory. Does anyone have any information about the particle size of the filler being used? Or the largest of the bennies that needs to make it through?

This page has some answers on it. I think the 400 micron size came because Myco are about 300 microns....I am not positive on this but I did spend a little time looking around.

http://www.gardeningwithmicrobes.com/teaarticle2.shtml

 

[click80]

The context is that I get better results with EJ High Brix than molasses. Anecdotal was/is exactly the intention, but yeah it did sound dorky. By better results is that I see more floc in much less time than with molasses without excessive foaming.

 

[Capulator]

Oh, and yeah that EJ High Brix is good shit, I don't know why, but I seem to get the best results with it.

and its cheap. best bang for the buck IMHO, besides black strap. I like the way the EJ dissolves so I use that. It saves me a bit of time.

 

[Capulator]

I do not strain at all. I squeeze the shit out of the stocking to get the EWC juice out, then stir. Then I let settle and pour/take off the top.

 

[click80]

I think as far as the whole sock size thing goes is that if you are going for fungal then you would keep your EWC and Compost in whatever you want, but when it comes to straining the tea you would not want to strain any fungals out. I personally think the settling then decanting off the top settles the matter anyway...lol

 

[Jellybean]

so i cant just throw the bennies in the feed rez (a man gets lazy sometimes lol)? i did that with great white and have a feeling i was just killing the spores.

 

[click80]

bacteria multiply exponentially during the first 12 hours of tea making as long as temp is okay, water is okay, food is there....kelp and molasses are enough, but EWC def helps. But it needs to be at a certain ratio to bring them to life and start reproducing, they can tell what their enviroment is and if it contains the food to get started on the cycle. So if your starting with, well lets pretend Product X has 10 colony forming units per gram, then thats what you are going to get if you just put it into the res, I guess they might multiply somewhat, but not like in a tea. In a tea it would go from 10, to 100 to 1000 to 10000...etc, and thats just in a matter of an hour or two once they go into their exponential phase. I don't know when the plateau is reached, but I know at least in the high millions if not billions. So.....I don't know enough yet but I would at least do crown applications to each plant if your not making tea, or if you do want to just throw them in the Res then at least get a product with some respectable number of bacteria, like Caps. He can tell you the diff between his and Great White, I just know it's substantially more compared to the other products out there.

 

[Jellybean]

bacteria multiply exponentially during the first 12 hours of tea making as long as temp is okay, water is okay, food is there....kelp and molasses are enough, but EWC def helps. But it needs to be at a certain ratio to bring them to life and start reproducing, they can tell what their enviroment is and if it contains the food to get started on the cycle. So if your starting with, well lets pretend Product X has 10 colony forming units per gram, then thats what you are going to get if you just put it into the res, I guess they might multiply somewhat, but not like in a tea. In a tea it would go from 10, to 100 to 1000 to 10000...etc, and thats just in a matter of an hour or two once they go into their exponential phase. I don't know when the plateau is reached, but I know at least in the high millions if not billions. So.....I don't know enough yet but I would at least do crown applications to each plant if your not making tea, or if you do want to just throw them in the Res then at least get a product with some respectable number of bacteria, like Caps. He can tell you the diff between his and Great White, I just know it's substantially more compared to the other products out there.

that is the exact info I was looking for. Basically the tea method multiplies the life more, I got a tea setup from Bountea (kudos to delae for the link) so I'm good to go, rather not waste it in the rez. Thanks click!

 

[Disambiguator]

What is “High Brix” Molasses?

The molasses trade commonly uses the term Brix as an indicator of specific gravity (relative density). Brix is a term originally initiated for pure sucrose solutions to indicate the percentage of sucrose in solution on a weight basis. However, in addition to sucrose, molasses contains glucose, fructose, raffinose and numerous non-sugar organic materials. Consequently, a Brix value for molasses will often differ dramatically from actual sugar or total solid content. In fact, Baker (1979) stated that, "With an impure sucrose solution such as molasses, Brix does not represent anything except a number denoting specific gravity and this cannot be related to either sucrose or dry matter content." Sugar mills can control the amount of sucrose extracted and because of this, the sugar content of molasses will vary according to the production technology employed.

Molasses is the liquid residue left after condensing the sap of sugar cane or sugar beets until sugar crystals precipitate. When all the crystals that can be formed have been centrifuged off, the syrup can be as high as 85% dry matter and 90 Brix. It is too viscous to be handled by ordinary mill equipment and is referred to as “high Brix” molasses. The molasses is shipped in the concentrated high Brix form to reduce freight costs. Upon arrival at a terminal distribution point, it will
be diluted down to (in the U.S.) a standard of 79.5o Brix, which is still quite thick,
but which is possible to handle in many mills.

What is the composition of EJ’s molasses and what is the basis of the “High Brix” designation ascribed to their product?

 

[click80]

It seems the in the commercial AG trade High Brix is commonly used to describe Molasses. Generic type term maybe? I assume that it means to commercial farmers who use it in feed that it meets USDA standards. I found that exact info you quoted posted in so many places that I would be surprised at any commercial farmers that were not sure what it means. The info you provided, when used also referenced a specific USDA standard.

All that means absolutely nothing to me as I know that within the context of MMJ horticulture I would not confuse the term High Brix when used to describe Molasses with High Brix in relation to plant tissue measurements.

To Organic gardeners/farmers this designation could have a different meaning altogether, although EJ does not make the distinction, maybe their customer base is such that they don't feel the need to make a long distinction and/or definition. Costs money to print stuff on products.

I found this info, also used/cited in a lot of websites where Molasses was being defined within the context of Organic horticulture.
Molasses
When sugar cane is harvested, the leaves are stripped, the juice extracted by crushing or mashing, and then boiled and processed to extract the sugar. The results of the first boiling and processing is first molasses – this has the highest sugar content. The results of the second boiling is second molasses. Second molasses is darker in colour and has a slightly bitter taste. Black strap molasses is from the third boiling.
Unsulphured molasses is the finest quality first molasses and is made from the juice of sun-ripened cane and the juice is clarified and concentrated. Sulphured molasses is made from green sugar cane that has not matured long enough and is treated with sulphur fumes during the sugar extracting process.
There are a number of different types and sources of molasses and some have already had the maximum amount of sugar removed and will therefore not be sweet. There are two main types of organic molasses: HTM (High Test Molasses) and Black Strap Molasses.
HTM is a sweet syrup with a high brix content of 80-84 percent. (Brix is a term originally used for pure sucrose solutions to indicate the percentage of sucrose in the solution on a weight basis. Molasses contains, glucose, fructose, raffinose and numerous non-sugar organic materials, as well as sucrose. Therefore the Brix value for molasses will often differ dramatically from actual sugar or total solid content. It really represents specific gravity.) The high-test molasses is a heavy, partially inverted cane syrup (no sugar removed), however molasses is a term generally used to designate material from which sugar has been removed.
http://ecobites.com/eco-news-articles/herbal-a-natural-remedies/675-black-strap-molasses


Hydro Organics who makes Earth Juice is a known quantity to me because of their other products, and since someone recommended it, I used it, found several indicators of better performance in teas. That is all I meant originally, no matter how crudely I put it, the name of it was just that, a name. If I happened to imply that High Brix meant anything significant...well, my bad. It just happens to be the name of it.

I also know now that EJ's HB Molasses comes from Sugar Cane extraction, which in my opinion, for a few different reasons, is better for stimulating microbiological activity. But there are plenty of other places to obtain Sugar Cane extracted HTM molasses. Right now I am going to stick with what provides consistent results in my teas which is the EJ High Brix.

I might try Citrus extracted Molasses one of these times and change to that. There are some subtle differences there also that might improve my teas.

 

[green punk]

FWIW
I found thesehttp://www.3bbags.com/ at my local health food store. $5.99 for three. Using for the castings compost and alfalfa.

 

[green punk]

Click-
What do think about adding BioBizz fish mix to the tea while brewing. It contains fish meal and fish powder and molasses?

 

[click80]

I would think from BioBizz it would be fine. Kind of a hard question to answer. I add fish emulsion in increments during my brewing time to reduce foam as I am now relying more on obtaining oxygen more from moving as much liquid around as possible, than just air stones and getting an oxygen boost from the air to water contact transfer. Foam is a good indicator, but in my case I don't want it covering the surface and smothering my oxygen exchange with the liquid. Plus I have heard it's good to stir those goodies in the foam back into the tea anyway.

The recipe at the beginning of this thread is the best I have used as it's basic, it's for a bacterial brew and covers all the bases. I will paste in these other recipes as it might help explain why Kelp and Fish Emulsion (cold processed) and Humics are added. It is from a book that a pretty respected lady out there who does a tremendous amount of research into Compost and Compost Teas. Keep in mind these are recipes for brewers known to keep O2 levels at adequate levels for maintaining aerobic conditions.

Three Simple AACT Recipes (All for 5 Gallon (19L) brewers)

Bacterial Dominant Tea

1.5 pounds (700g) bacterial compost or vermicompost
3-4 tablespoons (45-60ml) liquid black strap molasses
4 teaspoons (23g) dry soluble kelp or 2 tablespoons of liquid kelp
3-4 teaspoons (15-20ml) fish emulsion
Equal Ratio – Fungi : Bacteria Tea

1.5 pounds (700g) 1:1 fungi to bacteria compost
3-4 tablespoons (45-60ml) humic acids
4 teaspoons (23g) dry soluble kelp or 2 tablespoons of liquid kelp
3-4 teaspoons (15-20ml) fish hydrolysate
Fungal Dominant Tea

2 pounds (900g) fungal compost
3-4 tablespoons (50ml) humic acids
2 teaspoons (10ml) yucca extract
4 teaspoons (23g) dry soluble kelp or 2 tablespoons of liquid kelp
4-5 teaspoons (20-25ml) fish hydrolysate
Recipes from ‘The Compost Tea Brewing Manual’, 5th Edition by Dr Elaine Ingham.

 

[juggernaut]

nice...

 

[green punk]

Thanks for the input.

Dr. Elaine is the Queen of compost teas. Id love to take her course.

Ive made a couple batches w the Fish mix and it seems all good. I don't have a scope so who really knows. Ive been using the Biobizz Algamic also for a kelp source. Once again it seems good.

 

[outwest]

and its cheap. best bang for the buck IMHO, besides black strap. I like the way the EJ dissolves so I use that. It saves me a bit of time.

I've started using powdered molasses for that reason. It dissolves quickly and is much cleaner to work with.

outwest

 

[outwest]

Click-
What do think about adding BioBizz fish mix to the tea while brewing. It contains fish meal and fish powder and molasses?

I know that with some of the 'kits' they instruct you to not add the nutrient sources until the last hour of brewing. Any thoughts on why that may be, or if it is something that needs to be done?

outwest

 

[click80]

I know that I had good luck/results before with just ewc and humisoil and added in a food source. Now since I am using Cap's Bennies it's simply amazing, and I am definitely leaning towards reduced brewing times. Previously I was going 24 hours and up to 48. I know now that for my purposes 12 hours is prob best, 18 max. Can't wait to get a scope and some slides and stains.