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Root Aphids

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Root Aphids

Chobble 70 Replies 20,645 Views
Page 4 of 4 · Replies 61–71 of 71
I educated myself. That's how I landed on not using Merit. :p The issue with how long it lasts in plant tissues is still quite muddy, as I understand what I've read everything that is known about how it's transported is by studying plants in the field.

He's not saying don't use the Merit because it will kill your microherd, either. He's saying that using a product such as Merit disqualifies the grow as organic automatically. Also, just because it's Subcool's SuperSoil doesn't automatically make it a soil-food-web system, it only means that one has used organic inputs.

My own contention with the successful grow that occurred during RA infestation is that those girls suffered no infestation because I used these methods, not just organic inputs. I foment, promulgate if you will, all life forms, encouraging the good, which should, hopefully, outcompete the bad. I think it worked, if not due directly to the herd, then perhaps due to it possibly encouraging much higher Brix levels in those plants, and therefore encouraged their ability to fight off all attackers. THAT is the rub.

**Edit** You got your post in before mine. Of course I know what "cooking" the soil generally means. I'm not sure what you mean by pointing that out, though.
 
I'm not talking about prevention.

I am talking about what to do for an infestation.


So what will work better than Merit to rid an infestation?
 
You're not picking up what I'm putting down, either. I'm saying that I think there was something about that growing scenario that prevented the whole infestation in the first place, at the same time that I had an active infestation burgeoning.

I think Triazicide is better than imidacloprid specifically because it does NOT remain in tissues. IIRC there's a PHI of something like 7-10 days.

As for current Tx if one's suffering infestation? I would still stay away from Merit specifically due to how long it remains in plant tissues, I've read reports that it can be detected up to a YEAR after application. That hints that it may yet remain in flowering bud tissue to me.

Beyond that, I'd have to experience another infestation to even begin to offer any other alternatives based on direct knowledge and not just my reading. The hot water dip for grapestocks is a perfect example of that.
 
That me, Sea.

I only have my experience and what the manufacturer of Merit told me.(which could be a big fat lie)

I hope I dont have to figure it out again, another way.

IPM= The key to success

Prevention is where its at.
 
The huge problem MMJ cultivators have here is that NOTHING, not a single thing at all, is labeled for use with cannabis. We have to experiment, and a lot of "us" are pretty lazy when it comes to just reading a label, let alone paying attention to effects, etc. That was how, after failing with the Bayer T&S, I ended up using the Spectracide w/Triazicide. I had to extrapolate, based on labeling. Hated doing it, still feel icky about it.

I still think we need to use the closest corollary, and that's tobacco. Merit is not used on tobacco at any stage, from what I've gathered. Of course, being a nicotinoid, what would it do, exactly, ya dig?
 
Soo I have a theory about how Azamax works and I really hope its true.

By messing up there reproductive cylce, It makes them climb to the top and "go lay eggs" but they're hopefully sterile? I notice a lot of the population that was alive (One pot still has em as I can tell) climbed out of the pot onto the side and onto the top of the perlite.

Hitting them with more caps tea later.

Chobble
 
I can't say anything except that before I tried Azatrol (pretty much just like Azamax, as I recall) I had root aphids. After Azatrol I had PISSED OFF root aphids. Then things got really bad.
 
I can't say anything except that before I tried Azatrol (pretty much just like Azamax, as I recall) I had root aphids. After Azatrol I had PISSED OFF root aphids. Then things got really bad.

What do you think about putting a tabacco plant in my garden? I know a guy who does it he says it works really well. And one produces more ridiculous amounts of tabacco.
 
How is tobacco mosaic transfered?

There is a guy that sells native american tobacco seeds.

That makes sense as a helluva companion plant.

Is that what corollary(sp?) is Sea? Companion?
 
Mosaic viruses are often transferred by bugs that pierce one plant and then go on to pierce another, aka 'vector'. Like malaria. They are also passed on from a parent plant to seed, IIRC.

Corollary is equivalent to, not companion to.

I briefly thought about growing tobacco, but I'd want to sell it, and that comes with a whole host of permitting headaches.
 
IPM= The key to success

Prevention is where its at.

Truer words have never been spoken. My last run was pest free. My current run started out with introducing spider mites to my garden. Two doses of mighty wash and a semi-regular full strength caps brew as foliar (and regular drenching) and I have not seen them since. I'm giving them another foliar today, mighty wash in two days. . .I'll probably repeat both of those once more then I'll be two weeks into flower and I don't like to spray anything past that point.

As obvious as this sounds, a critical element to the IPM is a healthy vigorous plant. They are naturally more resistant. I'm running Sub's Super Soil with heavy doses of caps bennies and the sheer vigor is over the top.

outwest
 
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