Tea Recipe

[outwest]

what is the insect frass and what does it do in you opinion?

http://onfrass.com/

outwest

 

[click80]

http://onfrass.com/

outwest

thanks

 

[buddahslave]

My tea recipe is as follows (per gallon of filtered tap water):

1 tsp Cap's Foliar
1 tsp Cap's Roots
1 tbsp Bountea Bio-Activator
1 tbsp compost (Earth Recharge, Alaskan Humisoil, or Boogie Brew)
1 tsp insect frass (added 1-2 hours before brew is done)

Bubble for 16-24 hours. This is then diluted about 50-50 and used as a soil drench and foliar.

When using Boogie Brew, it always foams, even standalone. I also have a bottle of Earth Juice Hi-Brix that I've used instead of the Bio-Activator, which has yucca. I always get foam when I use the Bio-Activator. The powder is easier to work with as well.

outwest

Your tea can it be used from beginning to end with out a base nute? This is my first go around with tea and im finding that im having problems using tea with my nutes.

 

[outwest]

Your tea can it be used from beginning to end with out a base nute? This is my first go around with tea and im finding that im having problems using tea with my nutes.

There are no nutes in my tea. . .the frass has a little bit, as does the compost source. I used an amended super soil so I'm not 'pouring' any nutes into the soil from a bottle. It's my understanding that the plants need a lot less nutes when you are applying microbes regularly as they make nutrient uptake more efficient.

outwest

 

[click80]

the insect frass is very interesting. I enjoyed the read up on that. Thanks again.

 

[click80]

There are no nutes in my tea. . .the frass has a little bit, as does the compost source. I used an amended super soil so I'm not 'pouring' any nutes into the soil from a bottle. It's my understanding that the plants need a lot less nutes when you are applying microbes regularly as they make nutrient uptake more efficient.

outwest

On the page that link goes to I clicked on the "buy frass" link and noticed another product called Phytol. Are you familiar with that? It makes a lot of claims. Here is what I copied from it....

Phytol is here! Finally you can have one product that takes care of powdery mildew, mold, mites, aphids, thrips, whiteflies and more! This highly concentrated product will give you the results you're looking for. Just mix 1 - 2 ounces of phytol per gallon of water and treat your plants with a fine mist sprayer. Your plants will love it and the problems will be gone!
Are you familiar with this product at all?

 

[click80]

There are no nutes in my tea. . .the frass has a little bit, as does the compost source. I used an amended super soil so I'm not 'pouring' any nutes into the soil from a bottle. It's my understanding that the plants need a lot less nutes when you are applying microbes regularly as they make nutrient uptake more efficient.

outwest

Would you mind giving some info on your soil mix? I have been playing around with some different mixes but am not quite satisfied yet, although I am very new at amending soil and mixing soils. I just did a Sunshine #4 with R.Organic and Happy Frog. Tonite I am going with Sunshine Pro Mix for potting up a couple of my moms. I have heard that the ProMix is a good product.

 

[outwest]

Would you mind giving some info on your soil mix? I have been playing around with some different mixes but am not quite satisfied yet, although I am very new at amending soil and mixing soils. I just did a Sunshine #4 with R.Organic and Happy Frog. Tonite I am going with Sunshine Pro Mix for potting up a couple of my moms. I have heard that the ProMix is a good product.

I'm using Subcool's soil recipe.

outwest

 

[click80]

I like that one but I don't know if the weather here will hold long enough to cook it. If I am not mistaken it needs to sit out for about 2-4 weeks? I have heard it's an awesome recipe.

Oh, and do you order your Frass from that site, and what is the best deal? If you don't mind telling me. I am definitely getting some. I can't believe I have not heard about that before. I have read a lot of things on Chitin, but only as related to crustaceans, and that is really cool that it's in insect poop and the only plant available source of chitin. I am also interested in that product that site has called Phytol but can't find a lot of info on it.

 

[outwest]

I like that one but I don't know if the weather here will hold long enough to cook it. If I am not mistaken it needs to sit out for about 2-4 weeks? I have heard it's an awesome recipe.

Oh, and do you order your Frass from that site, and what is the best deal? If you don't mind telling me. I am definitely getting some. I can't believe I have not heard about that before. I have read a lot of things on Chitin, but only as related to crustaceans, and that is really cool that it's in insect poop and the only plant available source of chitin. I am also interested in that product that site has called Phytol but can't find a lot of info on it.

I don't know anything about Phytol. I ordered my frass at ehydroponics.com. My soil cooked at room temp last time without a problem. 4 weeks is what is suggested.

outwest

 

[click80]

Hey, Outwest. Thanks for all the good info you put on here. I just ordered my insect poop. I am really excited. I understand the science behind this. I would be willing to bet it works great for you.

 

[outwest]

Hey, Outwest. Thanks for all the good info you put on here. I just ordered my insect poop. I am really excited. I understand the science behind this. I would be willing to bet it works great for you.

My pleasure. I've gotten a lot of very positive feedback on my herb lately. Learned a lot poking around and asking questions here at the farm, so I'm happy to give back a little. :)

outwest

 

[buddahslave]

There are no nutes in my tea. . .the frass has a little bit, as does the compost source. I used an amended super soil so I'm not 'pouring' any nutes into the soil from a bottle. It's my understanding that the plants need a lot less nutes when you are applying microbes regularly as they make nutrient uptake more efficient.

outwest

This was a hard lesson learned, I was using cap's tea recipe and all my plants were looking perfect then I made the mistake of adding too much nutes. I used h&g soil a&b base with dark energy, rapid roots, and gh humic acid, now that I look back it was really stupid, less was best. Now the plants are stunted, I put them in flowering anyway, waist not want not! I think the plants would have been fine if not for the dark energy but I just will never know. I'm going to try to keep one lab on nutes and the other lab on tea. Hopefully I still turn a profit:cool:

 

[Capulator]

This was a hard lesson learned, I was using cap's tea recipe and all my plants were looking perfect then I made the mistake of adding too much nutes. I used h&g soil a&b base with dark energy, rapid roots, and gh humic acid, now that I look back it was really stupid, less was best. Now the plants are stunted, I put them in flowering anyway, waist not want not! I think the plants would have been fine if not for the dark energy but I just will never know. I'm going to try to keep one lab on nutes and the other lab on tea. Hopefully I still turn a profit:cool:

Yeah man, less nutes is more. Better to chase deficiencies than toxicities. Sorry that happened. I max out at 900-1000ppm in coco lately. I do not run soil but I am sure you can get away with far less than that.

 

[click80]

Yeah man, less nutes is more. Better to chase deficiencies than toxicities. Sorry that happened. I max out at 900-1000ppm in coco lately. I do not run soil but I am sure you can get away with far less than that.

Yeah I have the same problem. I always feel like adding nutes. Well, I used to. My last harvest totally blew me away and I probably only nuted it three or four times. Out of those times I only used Age Old Bloom (maybe 1 tsp/gal) and I think I hit it with Kool Bloom at the end and I don't believe it needed it. I don't count CalMag since I use RO water, and I also use Humic, FloraBlend, Alfalfa Tea....I consider those additives. Oh and Snowstorm. I ended up, and I swear this is the truth, with 10 zips per plant, as the final count. Just sold the last three the other day.

I am very excited about getting this Insect Frass. I ordered it Thursday I think. I have a really good feeling about this stuff when used in the soil and in teas.

But back to teas. They can be a little bit of a pain in the ass sometimes, I seem to always forget to keep adding in a little Biomarine to keep the foam down and right at about 14 hours the foam always starts developing that really think foam and I hate it when it spills over, I feel like I a losing some good stuff. But overall my weed has improved, the only problem I have had was this last batch had really airy bud but I am almost certain now that this was from too high temps. My temps are now back within range on this batch and the buds are rock hard again so now I am thinking of keeping up with my Alfalfa tea mixed in with Caps tea like I did last time.

 

[outwest]

The plants below made it through several weeks of veg with no nutes. . .roots soil, cap's bennies, compost sources (I vary these), and bountea bioactivator. No ewc, no alfalfa, no guanos or kelps. Now that they are in flower they are getting a beer cup full of super soil top fed every week. Kind of an experiment top feeding the super soil, but I tried it my last run and it worked well. These were a lot more lush but I had just stripped em to flip em.

When I first started growing I had this false notion that I needed to feed them to fatten them up. We all know that doesn't work (unless you know what you are doing!). I've really learned to 'listen' to what the plants are telling me from their appearance, and using super soil all they really need is tea and water. . .pretty easy. For my garden, less is definitely more.

outwest

 

[buddahslave]

I think i figured out where else I went wrong, I was using bat guano in my tea when should have been using some type of sea bird guano. What I think happened is that the phosphorus levels got to high for veg. I stuck them in flowering room anyway in 1gallon pots, bet i still get 1 pound per lighto_O

 

[kushsmoker30]

I think i figured out where else I went wrong, I was using bat guano in my tea when should have been using some type of sea bird guano. What I think happened is that the phosphorus levels got to high for veg. I stuck them in flowering room anyway in 1gallon pots, bet i still get 1 pound per lighto_O

4 what it's worth, try som bio bizz fish-mix numbers r 2-0-4.

i talked to the tea maker or whatever at Root Bloom n they shot some good info to me, 1st fuck botaicare sweets for tea's why? cuz there isn't any sugars in it, it's Cal Mag n sulfer read the bottle while it is good for plants to use to help the build sugars. it's not tea worthy, or in other words it's salts. instead use fish-mix cuz of the low P witch kills bennies, if u can't get fish-mix go to hm depot n c if the have ground fish meal but go for Fish-Mix 1st as it is made using a cold process n fish meal is made with heat killing of ton's of the good stuff in the fish. if u can't get either 1 of those, then go for the molasses. he said molasses works, but it only works on some species with the fish-mix u breed more types of fungi.

he told that the fish-mix will rise the PH, so use a lil molasses to lower it without killin off some of ur bennies.

my tea in the order i make it
4 gals water in 5 g bucket
2 heaping table spoons of cap root n foliar pack
1 healthy table spoon for root blooms
fat handful of worm casting
25 ml of hibrix molasses
60-80mls fish-mix
let it bubble for 24-48 hr's, mines start to get crazy with the foam around 16-20 hr's in, gave a gal n a half to a friend the other day n he was blown away by the results said tea shitted on my past teas swears he seen diff in his girls the next day.

if u do use fish-mix do it in da garage or the woman/girl in ur life will biiiiitch!!

 

[Capulator]

4 what it's worth, try som bio bizz fish-mix numbers r 2-0-4.

i talked to the tea maker or whatever at Root Bloom n they shot some good info to me, 1st fuck botaicare sweets for tea's why? cuz there isn't any sugars in it, it's Cal Mag n sulfer read the bottle while it is good for plants to use to help the build sugars. it's not tea worthy, or in other words it's salts. instead use fish-mix cuz of the low P witch kills bennies, if u can't get fish-mix go to hm depot n c if the have ground fish meal but go for Fish-Mix 1st as it is made using a cold process n fish meal is made with heat killing of ton's of the good stuff in the fish. if u can't get either 1 of those, then go for the molasses. he said molasses works, but it only works on some species with the fish-mix u breed more types of fungi.

he told that the fish-mix will rise the PH, so use a lil molasses to lower it without killin off some of ur bennies.

my tea in the order i make it
4 gals water in 5 g bucket
2 heaping table spoons of cap root n foliar pack
1 healthy table spoon for root blooms
fat handful of worm casting
25 ml of hibrix molasses
60-80mls fish-mix
let it bubble for 24-48 hr's, mines start to get crazy with the foam around 16-20 hr's in, gave a gal n a half to a friend the other day n he was blown away by the results said tea shitted on my past teas swears he seen diff in his girls the next day.

if u do use fish-mix do it in da garage or the woman/girl in ur life will biiiiitch!!

Maybe add the bennies last since they are pH neutral? That's what I started doing...

 

[click80]

I add molasses and most of my additives, which aren't many. I use RO so I put in CalMag and Epsom, then Biomarine and EWC and ph the water let it bubble for about hour so i have a stable PH before adding any bennies, they take care of themselves after that. I figure if that's the way they do it in large scale microbiological production then it can't hurt. I always get great teas. If you look at the basic recipes that are used in lab culturing then Molasses with Epsom and CalMag more than covers it. I have also started doing my compost tea separate from my bennie tea and then add them together right before watering.

If you have the patience and/or interest there are many groups on LinkedIn with discussions to read which I find interesting. Here is part of one I ran across a week ago.


Society for Industrial Microbiology and Biotechnology (SIMB)

Osmoprotection strategies for high titre fermentation processes
The use of beet molasses has been an effective strategy to provide osmoprotection to cells in a variety of industrial bioprocesses where high concentrations of small molecule weight products are produced to accelerate the rate of product accumulation, improve conversion efficiency, and to increase yield. Betaine or trimethylglycine in the beet molasses is responsible for this effect. A more economical and purer source of betaine, derived from chemical synthesis, has been effectively used in a variety of industrial process to replace beet molasses. Most notably, betaine HCl is now widely used in the production of amino acids and vitamin B12 . Will be interested in the group's experience with betaine HCl and/or beet molasses, as well as any other strategies to achieve similar results.