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over nuteing

  • Thread starter Thread starter mmmdankbuds420
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over nuteing

mmmdankbuds420 52 Replies 6,746 Views
Page 2 of 3 · Replies 21–40 of 53
#21
Sea maiden - thanks again for more advice, its always appreciated!
Rick ratlin - wonderful advice, thanks a lot sir.
 
#22
Oh ya I heard some talk about maintenance on pH pens? Could anybody school me on that some real quick. I'm sorry this thread is so all over the place. In the future I'll make sure I just create new discussions In appropriate sections. Thanks guys!
 
#23
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Ok guys, finally got the pics up. I just snagged a couple differant plants from the room and took em into the laundry room so I could get better pictures. The second picture is "cali thud bud" and the other three are all the same plant "church". What do you think? I know some of the newer growth is lighter in color but that's normal or no? Thanks guys!
 
#24
Rick, I really like your steak analogy. I talk about salting the soup, but I bet your steak gets more attention. :)
mmmdankbuds420 said:
Oh ya I heard some talk about maintenance on pH pens? Could anybody school me on that some real quick. I'm sorry this thread is so all over the place. In the future I'll make sure I just create new discussions In appropriate sections. Thanks guys!
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I use three things, an A & B cleaning solution, and then for storage (of my Hanna) I use the 4.01 pHing solution. I can't say if that's appropriate for the Bluelabs pictured here in your thread.

Those ladies are lookin' alright. Yes, sometimes when growth is extremely fast (explosive), the tops will come out lighter green, then darken up as they mature.
 
#25
Thanks Maiden! You never disappoint :) So just one more time to boost my confidence for my first grow, when the new growth is lighter in color its because its growing fast? So I'm doing a good job raising these babies?
 
#26
Not always, but often that's all it is. They need to translocate N from older (lower) leaves to the new growth. Which is a hint that pushing a wee bit of extra N probably wouldn't hurt, as long as it's a wee bit and not a huge bit.

Yes you are doing a good job. :)
 
#27
They look SUPER healthy considering they are being grown on a washing machine. I say stay put on the nutes. Just make sure your last 2 weeks are water and carbs only.

Fert can completely over ride the flavor of your dried bud, no amount of curing will get rid of it either. A good long flush is very important when using potions and magic elixirs.
 
#28
mmmdankbuds420 said:
Oh ya I heard some talk about maintenance on pH pens? Could anybody school me on that some real quick. I'm sorry this thread is so all over the place. In the future I'll make sure I just create new discussions In appropriate sections. Thanks guys!
Click to expand...

Some ph pens require that you use storage solution or the pen will go out. I personally think its best to buy cheap $10 pens off of ebay because they come calibrated and last for years and get the job done.Ph tester
 
#29
Seamaiden - thanks for the advice :) I've just learned that pH level will affect nutrient availability. And around 6.2 is at the bottom of nutient avilability for nitrogen. I can just simply adjust my pH to a higher level where the nutrients will be more available. I was keeping my pH at 6 but I've recently began using a 6.2 - 6.4 ph'ed water. I'll post the chart I've been referring to in about ten minutes.
Oregon panda - thanks for the ego boost :) I'm glad you think they look healthy. I had only moved the plants to the washer for whiter light under the fluorescent so I could get more clear pictures for better analysis. Gotta make sure nobody thinks I'm growing weed on a washer lol.
Buddha slave - thanks a lot man. That sounds like a damn good idea.
 
#30
These are a few different charts. I'm sure you guys know about this already. But maybe some other noobs like me might be able so stumble onto this thread and learn something new.
 

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#31
After looking at all these charts I can see why the strain hunters use a pH of 6.5 for their waterings.
 
#32
The chart is bullshit and the science behind it is bullshit too, understand that we are pirates and must think outside the box like a pirate would! Ph is in a range best for your plant which means it changes from plant to plant. In our plants it is best to be in the range of 5.5 and 6.8, at this range our product grows at its best not to say it wont grow outside this range just the result are at peak. Mother nature is not an exact science and I hope the pirate in you can see that you don't need your ph to be exact. My plants look the same at 5.5 as they do at 6.8. I love the science becuz we are all scientist doing a new frontier of experiments just don't get too bogged down on chart jargon. Plants have been growing in different ph waters all over the world for over a billion years and they just need a little nudge indoors to keep the party cracking:cigar:
 
#34
One more chart for the new kids on the block; VPD. This chart is why I run high humidity- and believe me when I tell you that my patients appreciate the results. On the one hand, higher humidity slows transpiration, requiring higher ec strength nutrients. On the other hand, thus humidity allows the stomata in the leaves to open fully, and take advantage of any CO² nearby, especially if one is paying for augmentation!
Downloadfile
 
#35
ttystikk said:
One more chart for the new kids on the block; VPD. This chart is why I run high humidity- and believe me when I tell you that my patients appreciate the results. On the one hand, higher humidity slows transpiration, requiring higher ec strength nutrients. On the other hand, thus humidity allows the stomata in the leaves to open fully, and take advantage of any CO² nearby, especially if one is paying for augmentation!View attachment 328307
Click to expand...

My little brain can not fathom this huge chart:cyclops:
 
#37
Example; 75% rh at 80 degrees F sounds insane, right? Check the chart; it's actually perfect. Your plants will soak up nutes and CO² like no tomorrow as they grow stupid fat colas!

Pic is proof;
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#38
ttystikk said:
Example; 75% rh at 80 degrees F sounds insane, right? Check the chart; it's actually perfect. Your plants will soak up nutes and CO² like no tomorrow as they grow stupid fat colas!

Pic is proof;View attachment 328342
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Theres a reason I follow this one. 75% Rh... does sound completely nuts. I cannot wait to try it!
 
#39
Dr. Strange Bud, with proof from the outer limits;

The ladies in the room in question are on day 36, see pic.

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#40
ttystikk said:
One more chart for the new kids on the block; VPD. This chart is why I run high humidity- and believe me when I tell you that my patients appreciate the results. On the one hand, higher humidity slows transpiration, requiring higher ec strength nutrients. On the other hand, thus humidity allows the stomata in the leaves to open fully, and take advantage of any CO² nearby, especially if one is paying for augmentation!View attachment 328307
Click to expand...

I really don't understand the chart I literally had to look up vpd(vapor pressure deficit) now I don't know what to do with that number or how it works:bag: Please elaborate a bit more in layman terms so I can test the chart a bit.
 
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