Clap Clap From The Front To That Back Ever Clear Start To Finish

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tinderthumbs

tinderthumbs

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I make cupcakes ate 3 and could not walk right was so funny I was in a store standing there just rubbing my face only time I went to sleep and woke up high lol
 
jipp

jipp

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Haha! I have an extra zero in there :) and me thinks something was wrong with the oil if you consumed a gram of it and felt nothing.
not the oil ( well could be commercial ), its me dude.. when i first started herb, i di dnot get high because of the opiates but as i came off the opiates i started to get high.. i have a very high tolerance from 15 years of opiate use. and i did get a good buz. but i did not get couch lock blazed.. it cured my withdrawls for the day, i was very happy that day, hah. but at 60.00 a gram, fuck that noise. ill have to wait to make my own.

or im a freak its either one.
chris.
 
mandalaman

mandalaman

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Ok I hear you. I'm glad it helped with the withdrawals. Hopefully calmed your legs down a bit made the day more tolerable.
 
jipp

jipp

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Ok I hear you. I'm glad it helped with the withdrawals. Hopefully calmed your legs down a bit made the day more tolerable.

thanks man.. yeah that leg shaking is a bitch.. especially when one of your legs is fucked.. so yeah was a good day.. wish i could afford to do it more during this shit. hah, but it is what it is.. iv been through worse. so rock on we must :D

but yeah i look forward to getting that fucked up as tinder.

chris,
 
rmoltis

rmoltis

The Beast Slayer
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No sir it is not.

It takes longer to get into buds abd convert THC a to THC.

As a thin layer of liquid there's nothing to slow down the decarb process.

I do agree here.

When I do a double boiler setup where I have oil as the heat liquid instead of water.

Water doesn't pass 212.
But oil can go into the 500+ range.

The upper pot has butter in it.
I raise the oil temp slowly until the butter in the top pot reaches 220°
Usually the oil is in the 230-250 range.
Because the big upper metal pot reduces the transfer of heat.


Once temp is stable I add my ground up herb. It bubbles rapidly then slows down. It takes over an hr at this temp and state for all the green colored matter to be removed and decarbed from the plant. Leaving behind empty sticks & leaves.


But I've noticed with thin film purging. The isopropyl alcohol boiling point is 180° and that's the temp I aim for during the main evap stage. Now during this stage I see mini bubbles rising from the solution during the entire process. It looks like decarboxylation to me mixed with a little alcohol boiling off.

Once the main evap is complete (approx 1hr)

My time over a boiling water at the end thins the solution down to its thinnest point.

Which allows the final solvent that is trapped to be released into the atmosphere.

During this time I can also see some decarb going on. Once all bubbling stops I remove the pan from heat.

Usually 5 mins is good, sometimes I'll take it off heat and let cool. If it's not ready I go for another 5. I do this until it's exactly where I want it.

If I cook too much or too long I lose valuable terps and other medicinal compounds. So doing it in small increments helps me protect my final product.


Studies ive read show Cannabis is best eaten raw, unheated, undecarbed. Your body absorbs a much broader level of cannabinoids in their raw form.

So I personally am not sure I want a full decarb unless I'm trying to get high. And even then my dome less nail takes care of that.

I am confident my product is a good % decarbed. Just maybe not %100. Like stated in earlier posts I like a partially decarbed product.

But I tell ya. Last time I ate a .15g of this rso I stayed up all night wired lmao. Brain just wouldn't calm down.

I have a heavy tolerance too, no joke.
My wife says I'm a professional stoner :smoking:
 
Last edited:
smokedareefer

smokedareefer

1,773
263
A saucepan filled with water, a silicone 9" round pan floating on top containing the solution.

Kept water below boiling point until most was evapped. Then at the end about 5 minutes of boiling water for the final purge. The boiling water can't exceed 212 (boiling point). And the heat
This final purge at the end helps turn it into a shatter consistancy.

I do agree here.

When I do a double boiler setup where I have oil as the heat liquid instead of water.

Water doesn't pass 212.
But oil can go into the 500+ range.

The upper pot has butter in it.
I raise the oil temp slowly until the butter in the top pot reaches 220°
Usually the oil is in the 230-250 range.
Because the big upper metal pot reduces the transfer of heat.


Once temp is stable I add my ground up herb. It bubbles rapidly then slows down. It takes over an hr at this temp and state for all the green colored matter to be removed and decarbed from the plant. Leaving behind empty sticks & leaves.


But I've noticed with thin
I do agree here.

When I do a double boiler setup where I have oil as the heat liquid instead of water.

Water doesn't pass 212.
But oil can go into the 500+ range.

The upper pot has butter in it.
I raise the oil temp slowly until the butter in the top pot reaches 220°
Usually the oil is in the 230-250 range.
Because the big upper metal pot reduces the transfer of heat.


Once temp is stable I add my ground up herb. It bubbles rapidly then slows down. It takes over an hr at this temp and state for all the green colored matter to be removed and decarbed from the plant. Leaving behind empty sticks & leaves.


But I've noticed with thin film purging. The isopropyl alcohol boiling point is 180° and that's the temp I aim for during the main evap stage. Now during this stage I see mini bubbles rising from the solution during the entire process. It looks like decarboxylation to me mixed with a little alcohol boiling off.

Once the main evap is complete (approx 1hr)

My time over a boiling water at the end thins the solution down to its thinnest point.

Which allows the final solvent that is trapped to be released into the atmosphere.

During this time I can also see some decarb going on. Once all bubbling stops I remove the pan from heat.

Usually 5 mins is good, sometimes I'll take it off heat and let cool. If it's not ready I go for another 5. I do this until it's exactly where I want it.

If I cook too much or too long I lose valuable terps and other medicinal compounds. So doing it in small increments helps me protect my final product.


Studies ive read show Cannabis is best eaten raw, unheated, undecarbed. Your body absorbs a much broader level of cannabinoids in their raw form.

So I personally am not sure I want a full decarb unless I'm trying to get high. And even then my dome less nail takes care of that.

I am confident my product is a good % decarbed. Just maybe not %100. Like stated in earlier posts I like a partially decarbed product.

But I tell ya. Last time I ate a .15g of this rso I stayed up all night wired lmao. Brain just wouldn't calm down.

I have a heavy tolerance too, no joke.
My wife says I'm a professional stoner :smoking:
I do agree here.

When I do a double boiler setup where I have oil as the heat liquid instead of water.

Water doesn't pass 212.
But oil can go into the 500+ range.

The upper pot has butter in it.
I raise the oil temp slowly until the butter in the top pot reaches 220°
Usually the oil is in the 230-250 range.
Because the big upper metal pot reduces the transfer of heat.


Once temp is stable I add my ground up herb. It bubbles rapidly then slows down. It takes over an hr at this temp and state for all the green colored matter to be removed and decarbed from the plant. Leaving behind empty sticks & leaves.


But I've noticed with thin film purging. The isopropyl alcohol boiling point is 180° and that's the temp I aim for during the main evap stage. Now during this stage I see mini bubbles rising from the solution during the entire process. It looks like decarboxylation to me mixed with a little alcohol boiling off.

Once the main evap is complete (approx 1hr)

My time over a boiling water at the end thins the solution down to its thinnest point.

Which allows the final solvent that is trapped to be released into the atmosphere.

During this time I can also see some decarb going on. Once all bubbling stops I remove the pan from heat.

Usually 5 mins is good, sometimes I'll take it off heat and let cool. If it's not ready I go for another 5. I do this until it's exactly where I want it.

If I cook too much or too long I lose valuable terps and other medicinal compounds. So doing it in small increments helps me protect my final product.


Studies ive read show Cannabis is best eaten raw, unheated, undecarbed. Your body absorbs a much broader level of cannabinoids in their raw form.

So I personally am not sure I want a full decarb unless I'm trying to get high. And even then my dome less nail takes care of that.

I am confident my product is a good % decarbed. Just maybe not %100. Like stated in earlier posts I like a partially decarbed product.

But I tell ya. Last time I ate a .15g of this rso I stayed up all night wired lmao. Brain just wouldn't calm down.

I have a heavy tolerance too, no joke.
My wife says I'm a professional stoner :smoking:
is this the method you used to produce this?
Downloadfile 1


im asking because this is fully decarbed RSO .

the process you discribed back in post 129 is totally different.

in post 129 you were purging in a water?
 
rmoltis

rmoltis

The Beast Slayer
Supporter
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263
is this the method you used to produce this?
View attachment 667146

im asking because this is fully decarbed RSO .

the process you discribed back in post 129 is totally different.

in post 129 you were purging in a water?

I was comparing my experience with processing dry flower in butter.

Compared to

Processing the oil via thin film purging.
 
rmoltis

rmoltis

The Beast Slayer
Supporter
3,912
263
Here's today's batch, all top cola's.
20170209 010709

20170209 010723
20170209 010739

Input
20170209 011850


Purged oil
20170209 024824


Final yield.
20170209 033449

Yield was %28.28!!!!


Turned out nice and shatter as usual.
20170209 034704


And look at that beautiful amber color.
20170209 034720
 
rmoltis

rmoltis

The Beast Slayer
Supporter
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263
so the method you are using here is what you discribed in post 129.
correct?

Yeah. But after watching the cycle.

I'd like to say that the portable burner has a thermostat. And when it hits the temp it cuts power until it drops a few degrees then comes back on.

So on the low end of this cycling the water underneath is above 180° cause I can see the alcohol boiling in the silicone dish. And on the high side as it heats back up the water hits boiling temp.

It slowly cycles like this for the hr.
Then at the end I do my 5 min purge at consistant boiling temp. I take it off heat and see if the viscosity is right.

If it's too thin. When I fold the silicone pan onto itself the oil is liquid like not really sticking together. So I add it for another 5 mins over boiling water. Take it off and recheck again. If not, a good one more 5 min session will do it.

It needs to be sticky to the point where when I fold the pan onto itself. As it separates it rips the oil off the other side of the pan. This let's me know it is ready.
This is the point where it can be collected/consolidated.

Has been working great so far.
The process is consistant and repeatable everytime.


The next best thing would be to get a vac purging kit. That way I could evap purge at a lower temp. Helping me preserve more terpenes. But then I'd be moving more away from rso.
 
Graywolf

Graywolf

1,597
263
thanks for stoping by Graywolf,

what would be your best guess as to the amout of time required to achieve your 70% at a set temperature of 201 deg. tia

Looks to be around 90 minutes, but the total THC will be low, because the same heat that decarboxylates, also turns THC into CBN and CBN into its degradation products. Beyond the peak of the different curves is where the remaining THCA is being turned into THC at a slower rate than THC is being turned into CBN.
 

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