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If you already control temps, humidity, feeding well and feel things could grow a little quicker then, yes...by all means it is a good investment. But if you are unable to control temps without venting the CO2 on lights on (usually an A/C is a must), or something is not optimal, then it may...

That seems like a perfect setup for seedlings. If possible, go get yourself 3 T8 shoplight fixtures (should cost you $60 total...maybe less). You can easily run 20-30 seedlings in dixie cups.

I got my answer...looks like it can be wired to a three prong dryer outlet.

Can this CAP controller ( http://www.plantlightinghydroponics.com/cap-mlc4x-4light-controller-p-1393.html ) be wired with a dryer plug? :sweating Or do all CAP controllers need to be hard-wired?

Hey guys, To answer your question, I'm from Canada. I'm looking for 240V with the three prong as seen on the picture, not Euro-style. CAPO: I'm trying to avoid hard-wiring and my box is out of space anyway. I've seen many 30amp 240V-120V boxes that plug right into the dryer plug...but...

Nice and clean Kpezzy. Are those 4 gallon containers? Is this you first run of RDWC? What lighting and ferts do you have? Good Luck...I'm pulling up a chair

Hello farmers, I have a relatively straight forward question. I am trying to use my dryer outlet to power 3 X 1000 watt HPS. Unfortunately, I have a three-prong outlet. Does anybody know if a 240V surge protector exists? the three prong outlet look like this...

Plants can take 1-4 weeks to show pistils after being induced into 12/12 lighting. My current grow took about 3 weeks to show but that was because my HPS failed while on vacation. The plant keeper, being inexperienced, simply stuck my fluorescents over them until I got back. My plants were...

What risk? I've used jiffy pellets for years without a single problem. I'd be hard pressed to move to RW which is a PITA. BTW, superplugs and rapid rooters are made from composted tree bark vs. peat for jiffy pellets...not much of a difference if you ask me. But to each his methods...

thanks for the input guys...:cool0010:

bump...anybody willing to venture a guess?

Top 44. It might be a stretch to go for a 6-week strain. But several strains can be quite psychoactive by the end of week 7.

What I am trying to get to in this thread is: Is there a course of action for CO2 depleted rooms? There is plenty of information regarding CO2 amendment to reach 1500 PPM's. And even noobs will gladly say ''there's no point on using CO2 if you can't reach and sustain 1500 PPM''.:yawn But...

The main reason is the rate of growth when compared to other grows. The fact that my intake is indoors as opposed to outdoors, also reduces the amount of CO2 entering the growroom. Mizz Elvis, I appreciate the post. Most of that information I had already read but the formula for human...

bump...

Yep. Enviros like other fluos need to be as close as possible. An inch or two from the top of your plants will allow you to maximize the lumen output towards the plants. :hi:

For those of you who have grown with and without CO2, I'm wondering how much yield CO2 can be accounted for with all other variables being equal. Now, obviously optimum temperature, nutes and water are usually impacted by the decision to add CO2 to the grow room. But assume two buddies grew...

I see your point Elvis. But the investment is more like $400+ to get proper CO2 equipment to start up. I know the yeast technique is not very productive or reliable but I have tons of free yeast around and I just want to supplement from like 150 to 300 ppm (I am guesstimating my CO2...

After going through my first hot summer grow I've noticed one glaring weakness in my garden. With outside temps reaching as high as 90-100F, I've been able to keep my temps within 78-82F since it is located in a basement. However, with my passive intake leading from a closed room about 35 ft...

Thanks purpleberry. I think I may just have a subpanel installed to avoid constantly having to plug and unplug the light controller.