10 Blue Dream Trees - 11kw Vertical

  • Thread starter Mr.
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UCtestn, half the plants had just RO water and the other half had 500ppm, but they all look the same. The light is at 75% power and was about 2.5ft away now it is 3ft away.

i made the mistake of over feeding first. feed them at half the recomended strength around 400 ppm to start, your curling thing looks like over feeding, ph or both.
as for obtaining genetics? go from seed the plants will be disease and pest free. go to the tude.

as for chicken joe, im not sure why anyone needs to argue here but you will be respected for your knowlege of course. but no one respects a big head or an asshole.

like the guys say, you want a proffesional grow id ditch the ill plants....subscribed:)


Since Chicken Joe edited his post, I now look like the ass. I'll paraphrase his point without the insults, because I actually agree with him. Just not how he said it or insulted the OP.

If you have the option to pick up new clones and start over, it wouldn't be a bad thing. Because of my resources, if this was my room, I would take them all out and start over. Since that was already suggested and you didn't do it, but rather are going to fight the mites.

I have been giving you my opinion based on the assumption you prefer to fight them.

You must rotate the miticides and spray every three days.

I don't subscribe to the need for lights REALLY close in veg. Here is one of my veg rooms with BD and Jilly Bean. There are two 1k parabolic reflectors that are fixed to the roof. I never lower them. They get plenty of light for small plants.


I'll start dropping the lights when they get moved to the flower room. (about a week before they start flowering)

Looking forward to updated status and pics.


The ones that were not fed, only watered, look the same as the ones that received nutes. The pics below show what they look like today.

Plants were flushed 2-3 days ago with 6.0 RO water, due to signs of a salt buildup. The runoff ppm was at 1600-1900ppm. It took 3-5 gallons of ph'd ro water to flush these down to under 50ppms, and by that time the runoff ph was fine, but it wasn't too much out of wack to begin with.

I fed half of the plants with 500ppm 6ph solution and the other half I fed nothing after the flush. I know you all are saying it looks like overfeeding, but could it be a deficiency, cal mag maybe?

I was told these were being fed 1500ppm, but I thought that was way too high, at least on my meter. That number does almost match the runoff so should I bump it up higher? If it is a deficiency should I treat with a foliar? I'm not disregarding all of you who say it is is overfeeding I just want you to have the data that I have.







K, Give them a couple days to drink that and let them dry out a bit. You can still foliar spray your pesticides in the mean time. I'll be lurkin.


Chickenjoe how bout Chickenshmow

So ya you really need to get a move on and crank that light up on drop it down. 100% and 12-16 inches away is more like it. Your girls look like they be stretching for some light. With limited ceiling space got to keep the internodes on the main stem tight. node space on the side shoots not to important till week before flip since you gut the inside.

wise words, especially for the BD. vegging 3ft away will create some lanky, low yeilding plants.

intense lighting during veg is key to yeilding lbs off a single plant


When plants start to look weird and seem to have a new different problem each day you need to check your root zone right away for root aphids.

I am not to fond of house and gardens coco nutes. Better off using gh 3 part, cns-17, or floranova for you base and use the H&G addatives


Yes, they did drink up what I fed them. I just weighed them all and they are back to their dry weights. I have had the yellow sticky pads out for a few days, but no bugs are stuck on them. I am going to mix a new batch of nutes tomorrow. I will also pull a few out of their pots to inspect the root zone.

Any more input on what to put into the new batch of nutes, and what to make the ppm or ec (.5 conversion)? They are all about 16-18 inches tall. I plan to mix the base nutes, some with cal mag, and feed the plants at different doses to find what works. I am going to feed at 100ppm, 300ppm, one at 800ppm and one at 1100ppm. I have heard and read so many differing recommendations I figured that I should try them all. Take these charts for example:

Growth Stage Nutrient Strength
Seedlings 0 - 325 PPM
Rooted Clones 275 - 400 PPM
Vegetative Growth Stage: 6-12" 400 - 600 PPM
Vegetative Growth Stage: 12-18" 600 - 800 PPM
Vegetative Growth Stage: 18-24" 800 - 1000 PPM High Intensity Light
Vegetative Growth Stage: 24+" 800 - 1200 PPM High Intensity Light
Flowering Growth Stage: 600 - 1400 PPM High Intensity Light

Clones 200-400 ppm
1st week 400-800 ppm
2nd week 800-1000 ppm
3rd week 1000-1400 ppm


When plants start to look weird and seem to have a new different problem each day you need to check your root zone right away for root aphids.

I am not to fond of house and gardens coco nutes. Better off using gh 3 part, cns-17, or floranova for you base and use the H&G addatives

i quit running h & g coco and switched to aqua flakes with calmag during veg. i drop the calmag during flower and don't get any issues. i think it runs cleaner and their coco nutrients don't have enough calmag in veg and then you end up with more than you need in flower.

i discovered root aphids on my last run around week 3 of flower. spent two weeks trying to figure out what every sick leaf meant. i had some plants that looked overfed, some underfed, all different micro and macro deficiencies, and i knew that my nutrient solution was spot on and ph'd. start digging around in your rootzone. they actually look like little beetles or big mites instead of aphids. they colonize the top 3 inches or so. i really hope you don't find any. nothing i could hit them with did anything(azamax, doctor doom, mosquito dunks, plant oils, spectracide) but there are stronger options since you are still in veg. seems like they've been going around.


yup bumping... just because you were told that they were fed at whatever dont matter. you can use them at half or qtr doses sometimes and the ppm will be hight. id just split the recomended dose on the bottle in half.

two week ago i fed 600ppm and the leaves started curling so they wernt ready for it. flushed and scaled down, now this week they are lovin the 600ppm.

plus ive found house and garden drip clean is good in coco like ive read. you dont get the salt build up (well not so far touch wood). hope they get better man;)


Sometimes when you see a thread and there are problems on page 1 ya just know its not gonna pop off....this was one of em.

Hope the dude finds another spot man...


Premium Member
nice info ape

Very nice set up and ill be subscribing. I gotta give u my advice on the spider mites jusy from experience from growing 4-5' trees for cuttings in socal:
1. First...you ARE NOT totally screwed if you have mites. But u have to deal with them appropriately or u will be fighting a battle the entire time. People who lose gardens to mites and other pests usually find out too late, and/or use the wrong measure or solution for the scope of their garden.

2. Your scope is large my friend. There is a huge difference between what u are trying to accomplish in the end and a guy in a small hydrohut or flood tray. Your goal I assume is to grow 10 or so very large 2-3 lb trees. But all the methods so far suggested are not appropriate for your scope. But much better suited for a smaller garden.

3. Personally I would bomb the room first with a pyrithium fogger first. Use the little white ones and pass on the dr. doom garbage. Next, I would go to my local hydroshop and see if I could find avid, floromite, or forbid. If they have one great. If you find two of the three I mentioned then best. So after bombing, id wait three days and tree with pesticide and a good wetting agent (penetrator, cocowet, wet betty, etc). Then id wait three additional days and apply second spray of pesticide and wetting agent. Its best to alternate miticides if you can, but if all u can find is one type then that will work fine.

***azamax and the others are good products but are best to "control" mites than totally irradicate them. Azamax is really just a concentrated neem oil and simply relying on them will almost insure a 8-10 week ongoing fight with the mites. My technique will irradicate them forever and the only way you will get another outbreak is by reintroducing them. U can use the azamax or whatever else as a control once you irradicate them. In a garden that size you should be doing routine sprays on your mothers and clones monthly before plants even enter your flowering room.

***its best to use sprays immediate upon mixing. I throw out and remaining sprays after 24 hours as they lose there potency.

***get yourself a decent 1 gallon pump sprayer from your local home depot, and be sure to use long sleeves and pants. Contrary to common belief, as strong as these miticides are they,are NOT MODAL. Meaning that they are not systemic and they do not travel within the plant. They only affect sprayed areas directly so your situation is ideal and they will not affect the flowers in any way. Avid is commonly used in the tomato industry on fruit headed directly to your local grocery story.

You have a "bigboy or expert garden" there, so only use appropriate or expert level measures...

havent had anythig but gnats so far knock on wood but am saveing this thred in case i do thanks ape EVERYBODY GROW EVERYWHERE !!!


Bummed it didn't work out for you Mr.

I am running a nearly identical setup to you, just finished my build out, girls go in this week.

Hopefully you get up and running soon.
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