10' x 10' MPB room build

Loudblunts · May 6, 2010

oh nah screw the red gard.... im over that. it wouldnt be cost effective to have to coat it with redgard then something else for floor traffic... like you said cheaper alternative (as i didnt realize for floor traffic, the bro didnt mention anything about worry about it, but i didnt know about it either way)

i didnt notice that link i may have just skipped right over it.... thas why i had googled it "spray on truck liner" and that was what i got....

i was seeing if that stuff thas on the amazon link was the same stuff as you were talking about....

how would apply some shit like this? i know you say rolls on and/or sprays... the redgard said the same directions, but my thing is... if i wanted to spray the dura liner stuff like you going to do.... how would one clean out the sprayer? (just for future knowledge) excuse my noobness as i told Papa... i leave this build stuff up to the real pros...im just a hack..lol

i got a friend who wants to do the SAME exact thing you want to do.... he told me he was looking for someone with a vortex sprayer machine. At first i had no clue what he was talking about....but when he started explaining shit makes total sense.

I mean yall will be able to pressure wash out ya grow without messing up nothing..lol. Thas fucking bad ass...lol

Keep me posted on what you do with that truck liner, as I dont think my friend wants to fork over the money for a vortex sprayer machine...im sure he'd like to hear your solutions/alternatives

edit: yea that dura liner looks like it would be the tits

TrichromeFan · May 6, 2010

Well, I am planning to just use a brush and a roller for application. I don't have a big enough compressor at the house. You can spray it, but it requires a special sprayer called a schutz gun. They range from $20-80. Not too bad. Here's the directions:

Spray Durabak:

Use a shutz gun and 1/2" clear tubing which can be purchased at Lowes or Home Depot. Drill a 1/2" hole in the top of the can for the tubing and punch a vent hole for can to breath. Slide a 24"- 30" piece of tubing onto bottom of the pickup tube of the gun and cut the other end of tubing at an angle and stick it into the bottom of the can. The angle is cut so the tube does not get siphon stuck to the bottom of the can on the inside. The gun needs 90 PSI or above in order to siphon material from the can. Adjust as needed. Spray at about 12" adjusting as needed.

I'm going to place an order for this stuff right away. I will keep posting the build progress. :rauch08:

And oh yeah, if the durabak is the tits, then it has to be the best thing in the whole wide world. Who doesn't love tits?:giggle

TrichromeFan · May 6, 2010

mets21 said:
nice framing there..

Thanks there mets21. More to come....

OregonMeds · May 8, 2010

brookstown said:
lol, your a fool dawg

Shaving my face with mace in the dark, saving all my food stamps and burning down the trailer park.

strawD · May 8, 2010

have you already bought your lights and equip? have you used them before? i've heard of lots of compatability issues with hortilux bulbs and digital ballasts of most brands. Supposedly the new AN ballasts as well as "phantom" brand rut at a lower cycle and can handle more bulb brands. what brand of ballasts are you running?

OregonMeds · May 9, 2010

Guys, I've used that spray on bedliner stuff before for other uses indoors and I think I should warn you that stuff leaks a strong chemical stink for quite a while after application even when dried in the sun.

I didn't use it in a grow system, can't say for sure what it'll do to the plants, but it could be really bad. Hopefully you can try it in a way that you won't contaminate a whole system or kill all the plants in one if the plants don't like it.

If I tried it, I bet it would kill them all. Now that I've said something though your experiences could be fine.

Loudblunts · May 9, 2010

OregonMeds said:
Guys, I've used that spray on bedliner stuff before for other uses indoors and I think I should warn you that stuff leaks a strong chemical stink for quite a while after application even when dried in the sun.

I didn't use it in a grow system, can't say for sure what it'll do to the plants, but it could be really bad. Hopefully you can try it in a way that you won't contaminate a whole system or kill all the plants in one if the plants don't like it.

If I tried it, I bet it would kill them all. Now that I've said something though your experiences could be fine.

thanks for the warning broham

TrichromeFan · May 9, 2010

strawD said:
have you already bought your lights and equip? have you used them before? i've heard of lots of compatability issues with hortilux bulbs and digital ballasts of most brands. Supposedly the new AN ballasts as well as "phantom" brand rut at a lower cycle and can handle more bulb brands. what brand of ballasts are you running?

I haven't picked up the bulbs and ballasts as of yet. I just got done reading the Lumatek post in grow room design. I do have a Lumatek 600 with a Hortilux, and everything is doing well with it. Mine has the breaker, and not the fuse. have run it at regular intensity, and have it in super lumens now for the last month, and no issue....Although I do feel a slight bit funny about the brand after reading the post. I really like the idea of the digi ballasts being able to dim, so you can reduce the lumen shock easier when you first bring the plants into the mpb room. I will bug my local shop on their feedback.

OregonMeds said:
Guys, I've used that spray on bedliner stuff before for other uses indoors and I think I should warn you that stuff leaks a strong chemical stink for quite a while after application even when dried in the sun.

I didn't use it in a grow system, can't say for sure what it'll do to the plants, but it could be really bad. Hopefully you can try it in a way that you won't contaminate a whole system or kill all the plants in one if the plants don't like it.

If I tried it, I bet it would kill them all. Now that I've said something though your experiences could be fine.

Which product did you use? I would have no problems ventilating the area for a while, and when it gets applied, there will be no plants in there at all to kill. I'm sure that it will have some vapors for a while, but I would think that it has to go away.

Anyhow, too late I already ordered the materials.

So, Bonsai!
-TF :evilgrin0013:

OregonMeds · May 9, 2010

Shit you would test my memory for details like brands wouldn't you? I tried two kinds, one was a roll on stuff in a blue can that I don't remember the brand of and the other was duplicolor's canned spray on stuff. Both were consumer level products off the shelf from an auto parts store I also can't recall the name of.

Glad of could be of such help. :)

Oh and man, both of them were bad, they stunk up a room for at least a good two weeks or so after application. Then I tried thinner coats and letting them sit black facing full sun for a few days to just cook and that seems better it only stunk less for the same two weeks to a month.

They were good aside from the stink, I liked how they worked out a lot aside from that one small detail.

Since then I've read of all the problems people had from grow tents that leaked chemicals as they heated up and that's what brought the problem to mind, the chemicals didn't work out so well for those grow tent boys and you can read about it on most forums if you want to know the symptoms they saw. Only air contact alone really screwed them over.

Purkle · May 11, 2010

Yeah I made the mistake of painting a room then throwing some girls in there a few days later. They struggled tough till the fumes wore of two weeks later. Open windows and everything to vent the bitch but the paint just had to off gas. Be carefull and plan to be empty for at least one month i'd figure. Alot at stake when this is done.

Papa · May 11, 2010

the redgard + linoleum squares seems like a great option to seal up that floor and make it good for traffic.

i looked into the bedliner stuff years ago. i was told by a friend that really knows his shit that the real pro stuff needs the special gun, was only available in 55 gal. drums (!), and that i wouldn't be pleased with anything less!

Papa

TrichromeFan · May 17, 2010

OregonMeds said:
Oh and man, both of them were bad, they stunk up a room for at least a good two weeks or so after application.

They were good aside from the stink, I liked how they worked out a lot aside from that one small detail.

Since then I've read of all the problems people had from grow tents that leaked chemicals as they heated up and that's what brought the problem to mind, the chemicals didn't work out so well for those grow tent boys and you can read about it on most forums if you want to know the symptoms they saw. Only air contact alone really screwed them over.

I will heed the stinky warning. Although that will not deter me. I will just use a big fan till the smell goes away. I am going to just have to go with the stuff I got, and have faith that it will perform well, and not have bad side effects like long lasting harmful vapors.:shake

Purkle said:
Yeah I made the mistake of painting a room then throwing some girls in there a few days later. They struggled tough till the fumes wore of two weeks later. Open windows and everything to vent the bitch but the paint just had to off gas. Be carefull and plan to be empty for at least one month i'd figure. Alot at stake when this is done.

Again, warnings heeded. It will be surely more than a month after completion till the girls will be invited to the party. I want to make sure that the room is 100% before I even start to veg.

Papa said:
the redgard + linoleum squares seems like a great option to seal up that floor and make it good for traffic.

i looked into the bedliner stuff years ago. i was told by a friend that really knows his shit that the real pro stuff needs the special gun, was only available in 55 gal. drums (!), and that i wouldn't be pleased with anything less!

Papa

Again, this stuff is a little different. I am dead set about it at this point. It is sitting in my garage. I will give it a go, and see how it flies. I will post up the pics when it goes on.

Well it has been a couple of weeks since a progress shot, so here goes. Electrical all laid out and pre wired. Walls are ready for insulation now.

Loudblunts · May 18, 2010

very nice brother

TrichromeFan · May 19, 2010

Thanks Loudblunts,
Now I'm just waitin on my AC to arrive. I just ordered it, maybe it will be here next week.

:pimp:

Loudblunts · May 19, 2010

pimping ass remote and a/c forsure!

greenthumbdanny · May 19, 2010

Nice Trich>>>>I'll be following along for sure.
What size mini split did you get.
I ahve a LG 18,000 BTU and loving it for my 8K

:passingjoint:

gtd

jack the reaper · May 19, 2010

flat. out. SEXY! nice work bro!
if you want my 2 cents on your wall/ceiling/floor treatments...
walls- after you roll your fiberglass in the stud bays i like to cover studs with 4'x8' sheets of R-Tech (home depot) it comes in a bunch of thicknesses, 1/2" to 1" should treat you right. the sheets are made of insulating foam, easy install with a tape, straightedge, sharpie and hand saw (lots of styrofoam to clean up after, but done quick with a shopvac). tape the seams, then you have a brilliant white, SEALED, easy to clean, insect and mildew resistant surface (that will help with noise leak too!) on the ceiling and walls.
if i were in your shoes i would cover the whole floor with one sheet of linoleum (whitest stuff you can find) if you are concerned with water getting between the linoleum and floor then prime the ply with LATEX Killz (home depot) and paint it with a high gloss latex white. add a packet of mildicide to the primer (they have it in the paint dept, home d once again).
i have panda on my floor and it takes a beating and is easy to clean. oops! tore a hole in it? no prob! thats why the good lord invented white duct tape!

btw, i once built a 2x6 subfloor that spanned 12 feet with joists on 2foot centers. i sistered the joists right beneath the 100 gal (800lb) res and there was very little deflection (sag or bounce) in the floor. so you should be ok BUT!---better safe than sorry.

appologies, that was more like 2 bux than 2 cents, you can hold on to the other buck.98 for now!

very nicely done trich, lookin forward to following your thread.
jr

TrichromeFan · May 19, 2010

greenthumbdanny said:
Nice Trich>>>>I'll be following along for sure.
What size mini split did you get.
I ahve a LG 18,000 BTU and loving it for my 8K

:passingjoint:

gtd

Thanks man, glad to have you aboard.
The mini split that I ordered is a 24,000 BTU Friedrich. I wanted to make sure that sucker cools like a mofo in there. Summers can get hot here, so I want to bring it like an iceberg.

jack the reaper said:
flat. out. SEXY! nice work bro!
if you want my 2 cents on your wall/ceiling/floor treatments...
walls- after you roll your fiberglass in the stud bays i like to cover studs with 4'x8' sheets of R-Tech (home depot) it comes in a bunch of thicknesses, 1/2" to 1" should treat you right. the sheets are made of insulating foam, easy install with a tape, straightedge, sharpie and hand saw (lots of styrofoam to clean up after, but done quick with a shopvac). tape the seams, then you have a brilliant white, SEALED, easy to clean, insect and mildew resistant surface (that will help with noise leak too!) on the ceiling and walls.
if i were in your shoes i would cover the whole floor with one sheet of linoleum (whitest stuff you can find) if you are concerned with water getting between the linoleum and floor then prime the ply with LATEX Killz (home depot) and paint it with a high gloss latex white. add a packet of mildicide to the primer (they have it in the paint dept, home d once again).
i have panda on my floor and it takes a beating and is easy to clean. oops! tore a hole in it? no prob! thats why the good lord invented white duct tape!

btw, i once built a 2x6 subfloor that spanned 12 feet with joists on 2foot centers. i sistered the joists right beneath the 100 gal (800lb) res and there was very little deflection (sag or bounce) in the floor. so you should be ok BUT!---better safe than sorry.

appologies, that was more like 2 bux than 2 cents, you can hold on to the other buck.98 for now!

very nicely done trich, lookin forward to following your thread.
jr

JR,
thanks for the R-tech tip. Are you talking about the sheets that are just the styrofoam, with no foil layer? I got some of the 2" thick with the foil layer to go under the subfloor. For the walls, I already bought green wall sheets. Considering I had to rent a truck to get those here, I am gonna roll with that this time. Although I have looked at that styrofoam stuff before, and it looks sweet. You could go over existing walls in any grow, and use it for partition walls as well. I know that I have seen similar here before.
On top of the green wall will go the Reflectix insulation. Both for light reflection & insulation as well.
As far as the linoleum, I have already invested in an industrial grade floor treatment, that I was talking about a few pages ago. The idea at this point is to make the whole floor of the room like an extra large shower pan. 150 gallons worth of accidental MPB spillage in there, no problem!
As to the floor structure, it is 2x6, 16 on center, with lots of block bracing, and 3/4" ply. It is damn solid with a couple of people working on top of it.
Thanks again for all the input.
-TF:evilgrin0013:

Papa · May 19, 2010

TrichromeFan said:
The mini split that I ordered is a 24,000 BTU Friedrich.

that's not foolin around!

Papa

nucleotide · May 19, 2010

That raised floor is an awesome idea. You could do so many things with that at your hands. Can't wait to see you blow it up in there.

Those lumatek dimmable ballasts are the shit.
They are great for transplant and definitely help ease 'em in.

10' x 10' MPB room build

10' x 10' MPB room build

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10' x 10' MPB room build

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