dankworth said:

Too high N in flower, especially late flower, will make my leafy cultivar leafy as shit.

I rock chow mix of course, 24% coco. I have run a 1:1.5, 1:1.6, and 1:2.5 N:K ratio.
I am talking about elemental ppms.
2.5 was best. More dense, more frosty, less leafy.
You would be looking at 1.56 N:K, so your buds would be more leafy.
I did not like sitting in a fucking chair trying to harvest and trim an 8k room while getting progressively sicker.
So I like the lower N to K ratio.
Less scissor swipes per bushel.
Time vs money.
Bag appeal.

Edit-Prodigygrower, if I was advising you professionally, I would advise you to copy one of the successful formulas listed here. Mine is a copy of JK's, slightly modified for chow as per his recommendations. Then there is the Yosemite Sam formula also listed. Then there is Cap's formula.
Cap's and my formulas list the grams of salts per liter or per gallon to get the ratios right.
$200, or maybe a little less, will get you the salts you need.
Copy a formula.
Tweak 1 thing at a time from there.
I say this in the interest of
Operation Prodigygrower's Pocket.

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ProdigyGrower said:

Awesome thanks bro i got a 150gm sample for free i planned to use this and in the latter weeks of bloom cut it down by 75% and use a product like moab and hammer head combo with my first grow back i'm planning to run pure coco in 4x4 smarty's in my 4x4 trays and i dnt really have the time to mix my own salts its something i really want to try but i'm trying to find a cheap lazyer way to get good results. How do you think that would work cutting it down my 75% and adding those products or could you recommend a good product i was also thinking of fox farms open sesami, beastie blooms and cha ching. I have had good results in the past and they have no N in them well then the cha ching dnt but the others i think have very little. I used to use abunch of advanced products with botanicare and other as i see needed but i'm not gonna waste money on that any more with the amazing results i have seen people get with these type of nutes.

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dankworth said:

Someone was kind enough to point out in a pm to me last night that they used P primarily for root development. I had read that before, but had never really delved too deeply into that. Needless to say have not varied P levels and checked roots for response.
I like Cap's ideas about the constant drip and P levels, levels of all nutes for that matter. Why I like chow mix. You can give it a small irrigation, and watch it slowly drip drip drip out the bottom in an even, measured pace, halfass gravity fed nft. Coco/perlite does not do this nearly as well.
I have heard of soil's inability to hold on to any meaningful amount of P. I sincerely hope we can drastically reduce our P levels under what ppms many run.
Eventually we can hook the plant up to a galvanometer like the dude in Secret Life of Plants, and the plant can thereby control the nutrient doser with changes in leaf surface electrical conductivity.
The Russians already did this a long time ago with plants self-governing irrigation timing.

For sure, it wants way more Ca than P.

Those values look close to JK's proposed values. JK started off with 120-60-280-120-60 I think he said (for his recirc), then bumped P in wk 2(or 3) to further trigger flowering, and bumped P to 90 late flower, and K to 320 maybe(if I recall correctly) also in late flowering. And YS's Ca values being a little higher than his N values are something I would have been inclined to try.
Looks like YS and JK prefer similar nute ratios, I will be right in there with my values, copying theirs seems to work out well.
But if we could keep that all the same, and drastically drop P, and optimize micros, and put them on a relatively constant drip, or something that approximated that, then we could get the greatest health with the least input cost.
All these guys have the right ideas regarding Ca foliars.(and K silicate foliars too)
More weed, better weed, lower cost.

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Carl Sagan said:

I'm BALLS DEEP in this thread. Almost done reading, will contribute soon

im already BALLS DEEP tho, keep eet goingk!

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DowNwithDirT said:

Blumats

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ttystikk said:

How does one specifically bump boron?

I had a screwy thought about using some of 20 Mule Team Borax in the laudromat!

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ttystikk said:

Solubor actually has the 20 mule team borax logo on it! A 2lb bag is $12.99, which is a bit more in my price range. Soooo... why not just go with borax? Same stuff; sodium borate- and I'm not gonna use enough for the sodium to become an issue!

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ttystikk said:

How does one specifically bump boron?

I had a screwy thought about using some of 20 Mule Team Borax in the laudromat!

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dankworth said:

I agree, I think buying a laundromat and growing in the back of it would be a great way to use sodium borate in a laundromat.
Fuck yeah.

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sdgrower said:

Prodigy, I am just finishing up a run of headband using veg+bloom. Following the posted rates I began to notice a leafier looking product around week 5. I reduced the strength to 3 grams per 5 gallons then in weeks 6 and 7 I reduced the veg+bloom and hit em with MOAB. Finishing up week 7 now with good nug development. 2 weeks to go. I am going back to jacks pro without looking back. For $100 with shipping to CA you get 25lbs of jacks pro and 25lbs of cal nit. Plus you use less jacks.
Use the free sample for clones in rockwool.
Can't wait to see the new set-up

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ttystikk said:

Ahhhh yes, it's the greenest laudromat in town! ALL of our customers leave with a satified smile on their face...

I can see the tagline now; 'It all comes out in the wash...'

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sdgrower said:

Fwiw the Aptus line seems to really utilize the micro's specifically boron and molybdenum in their fasilitator. I'm going to bump up my MOST a little bit and see what happens.

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