120-60-300-120-60-177.2 Nutrient Tutorial, or, My Thread Can Beat Up Your Thread.

[Capulator]

Do you drain the water back to the well to reclaim it?

 

[dankworth]

Do you drain the water back to the well to reclaim it?

No. I would if I could, but that is not a practical solution for me in my position.
My well has a static level of 25 feet, and is capable of 42 gallons per minute.

I have often wondered how large of a body of water it would take in a sealed-ish container buried in the earth to use as a heat sink for water-cooling.
Maybe a couple hundred gallons with a pump down there, pumped up to the room to water-cooling, then returned might be good.
Might heat up too much too.

Wait! Fuck that! have your buried sealed-ish large tote, and pump water through a length of hose coiled in the water in the buried tote, then return it up above ground for the cooling!
Or some shit.

 

[deep buddy]

I am on a well. I pour water from the faucet in a shower into a 5 gal bucket constantly. Then I pump this cold water through 1/2" tubing to a heater core radiator that has been foil-taped and bungie-corded to the back end of an 8" blower from Harbor Freight.
Cools 2 or 3 aircooled 1ks plus ballasts. Put the blower on a timer, otherwise it gets too cold at night.

homie gotta get you a chiller.... though you have a pretty good ole MacG setup.
i wonder if the compressorless would work esp w/ a cold water source hmmmm?

 

[El Cerebro]

I have often wondered how large of a body of water it would take in a sealed-ish container buried in the earth to use as a heat sink for water-cooling.

Me too. What if the cistern was on a slab in a room that stayed at outside winter temps? Collected rainwater could replace some of the well-duty.

 

[deep buddy]

Me too. What if the cistern was on a slab in a room that stayed at outside winter temps? Collected rainwater could replace some of the well-duty.

if it gets cold outside you can rig a chiller coil real easy just need a pump, brine, and copper tubing, or even better glycol!

 

[El Cerebro]

how much gly-coolant per __?

 

[deep buddy]

how much gly-coolant per __?

itll take a lil math and will have to be dialed in, but less glycol at colder temps=more cooling power and less strain on equip. all very good things. even brine is better than straight h20, just make sure they are salt water rated chillers.fwiw

 

[El Cerebro]

Meant more like how much fluid for the coolant res per 1k, or btu estimate? Hydrometer for the glycol ratio, right?

 

[dankworth]

homie gotta get you a chiller.... though you have a pretty good ole MacG setup.
i wonder if the compressorless would work esp w/ a cold water source hmmmm?

I have a big automotive radiator that I will mate to that burly $100 fan from home depot when I get off my ass. That would cool the shit out of my room.
My well is pretty badass.

 

[evu80]

sorry to derail this thread a bit, but what about using a swamp cooler in this situation. Cools down the room and add RH as well.

 

[dankworth]

sorry to derail this thread a bit, but what about using a swamp cooler in this situation. Cools down the room and add RH as well.

Theoretically yes that is a good solution.
But not for me right now cause then I would have to spend money on one.
I have another spare blower, radiator, bungie cord, tubing, foil tape, pump, so I could rig another water-cooled spot cooler.

 

[deep buddy]

sorry to derail this thread a bit, but what about using a swamp cooler in this situation. Cools down the room and add RH as well.

swamp cooler ie evap coolers add water to the air thereby lowering the temp in some cases, and of course raise RH avoiding vpd

 

[El Cerebro]

it affects energy substrates including triglycerides, glucose, amino acids, free radicals and even estrogen

sometimes the like button just doesn't express my true feelings <sigh>

 

[dankworth]

sometimes the like button just doesn't express my true feelings <sigh>

What was that from again? Was I copying and pasting all high again?

Need to check my testrogen levels.

 

[ttystikk]

I am on a well. I pour water from the faucet in a shower into a 5 gal bucket constantly. Then I pump this cold water through 1/2" tubing to a heater core radiator that has been foil-taped and bungie-corded to the back end of an 8" blower from Harbor Freight.
Cools 2 or 3 aircooled 1ks plus ballasts. Put the blower on a timer, otherwise it gets too cold at night.

PUSH the air through your cold water radiator and back into the room. It will work better.
Like this: Room Air-> Fan -> Radiator -> Room
Otherwise, I think your MacGuyver'ed up blower/heater core is just as good and maybe even better than an IceBox brand unit with a Maxfan blowing through it!

The problem with a cistern is a lack of surface area; the larger your tank, the smaller the ratio of surface area to volume, which slows down the rate of heat transfer.

If you're going to run glycol, run 1/2 propylene glycol ('RV antifreeze') and 1/2 water. This gives the best combination of freeze protection and thermal transfer over a wide range of temperatures. You will want to make certain your cold water circulation system is well sealed with no leaks before putting the glycol in, for obvious reasons. Water is a mess, but evaporates. Glycol is a mess that DOESN'T evaporate, which is much worse! Don't run saline because it will eat your pump. OR, if you get a pump that can handle saline (like one for reefers), it's too expensive. Saline is corrosive; glycol is a lubricant- 'nuf said.

swamp cooler ie evap coolers add water to the air thereby lowering the temp in some cases, and of course raise RH avoiding vpd

Swamp cooling is a good solution only in cases of low RH in non-sealed rooms. Using well water in a swamper isn't recommended, since it will build up mineral deposits FAST. Also, swamp cooling is of limited use in a sealed room situation- once the RH reaches the right value, you'll need to shut the swamper off, at which point it quits cooling... Not sure what you're running, Dank- if it's sealed then your fan/radiator thing is an ideal solution.

VPD isn't something to 'eliminate'; it's a measurement. There is a preferential range of VPD values plants prefer for good growth- outside of which, they slow dramatically and they can't take up CO2, effectively rendering augmentation useless. Too high (that is, low RH) and the stomata close to converse water and CO2 uptake stops. Too low (or too high RH) and water tranfer of nutrients slows, inhibiting the plant's ability to grow.

 

[dankworth]

Though more efficient to push hot air through the cold radiator, I cannot do that because it would blow the foil tape seal off.
My solution is really halfass, it requires suction to keep the seal intact.

 

[evu80]

Dank

I wanted to know if you are using the same ratios but at a diluted rate for your cuttings and plants that are in the vegging phase. I can understand wanting and needing the correct ratio during bloom, but is it crucial to have the right ratios for these stages? I'm planning to use GH's Pure Blend Pro for simplicity as my bro is new at this and I don't want to make it too difficult for him at this moment until he gets the hang of it.

 

[El Cerebro]

The problem with a cistern is a lack of surface area; the larger your tank, the smaller the ratio of surface area to volume, which slows down the rate of heat transfer.

how about if 750gal 6" deep spread over cold 10x20 slab under subfloor? or even 1500 / 12" if necessary.

 

[ttystikk]

Though more efficient to push hot air through the cold radiator, I cannot do that because it would blow the foil tape seal off.
My solution is really halfass, it requires suction to keep the seal intact.

Understood- this is better than nothing, but pushing would step it up a bit.

how about if 750gal 6" deep spread over cold 10x20 slab under subfloor? or even 1500 / 12" if necessary.

Now you're talkin'! This solves the small surface area issue and as long as fulling your basement full of water doesn't destroy your foundation I'd say go for it.

 

[El Cerebro]

as long as fulling your basement full of water doesn't destroy your foundation I'd say go for it.

haha, not basement, damn that would be sketch. house-float? just thinking to frame in a subfloor with pond-liner(s) on a ground-floor slab, maybe add swim-spa while I'm at it.

Dood, we could just put huge net pots through holes in the floor, then let roots dangle down aero-scrogged through some drop ceiling grid, into basement full of aerated notes. Swimming pool robo-skimmer to keep the hydro-zone clean (or account with local chem supply for 55gal drums of h202 it would need).