3 In 1 Dimming Including On/off Function For Meanwell Hlg Drivers
AvidLerner
- 296
- 63
I got a couple of these in today and tested them with Meanwell led drivers, and they work great. You need either a 9v battery or a 10v power supply, pick one. Both tested well. This device allows both a 5v pwm signal and a 10v pwm signal. These are made for cnc machines running with pc's using 5v signals, while motors need 10v to go fast.
peace
Avid
peace
Avid
AvidLerner
- 296
- 63
A couple of updates:
1. Dimming capability. thee are a number of opportunities for 3in1 dimming. For the DIY person there is a few of what has been posted here. Most are what are called "High Side" dimming. if you google that term you will find many opportunities to build a dimming circuit. However if you are not so inclined to soldering and transistors, resistors, capacitors, etc, you m ight be interested in a pcb board already built for PLC or industrial controls and automation. Arduino's are being use used in much PLC now. Here is the link for the pwm driver. they range from $3 to $7 each channel.
2. Timers. Each light fixture needs to be timed for either 12/12, 18/6, 20/4, 3o min at lights out, etc. Each of those schedules requires timers. If you add up the costs of the timers to control each fixture, $30-50 each, the cost goes up quickly. Replacing all of those timers, 8-16 is a change event. never worrying about timers being on schedule or breaking down and requiring replacement, while it stayed on, when the rest of the lights went off. SAD face. I developed the GrowGreen Controller with this the top priority. When you consider the cost of 8 timers at even $20 each $160, is still more than one GrowGreen Controller alone. Dimming becomes the bonus.
3. I have shared all of the circuits I have developed for dimming Meanwell drivers and they all work, as well as those alluded to b y others. In order to build them you need the tools and components, ergo the board available on ebay for $5. Another approach is to use a optocoupler or light emitting diode and a light accepting diode to transfer signal from the 5v Arduino to the 10v Meanwell driver. A number of optocouplers are available for this purpose. You will need a 1k resistor on the pwn pin to the diode, and another 1k resistor, to create the high side switch, between 12v power and the Collector of the transistor, tying the emitter of the transistor to ground. The leads from the two ends of the 1k resistor go to the Meanwell driver. Positive from the power supply goes to the Dim+ and the Collector side of the resistor goes to Dim-, creating a 0-10v circuit driven by the Arduino 5v pwm signal. BTW, if you tap the signal coming out of the Arduino pin and ground, yopu also have a 5v pwm signal to use for on/off functionality of the Meanwell driver, while still having the ability to dim the drivers as well. Available optocouplers are the CYN75B, CYN75GB, 4N25, to name a few available.
4. If you also use supplemental lighting, Far Red, Deep Red, IR, or royal or all the above, you can also control these with an LDD driver board, 4up or 6up from rapid leds, coralux or ebay. you can build them yourself or buy them built, and populate them with various LDD drivers, 800ma, 1000ma, etc. for each supplemental light used. Each of these LDD drivers can also be controlled to dim, or on/off with just a 5v pwm signal. Any LEd controller can do that, but only the GrowGreen controller has 8 channels and flexible control over each channel independent of other channels.
More on the GrowGreen Controller can be found here. https://growgreenled.wordpress.com/
Vegas
1. Dimming capability. thee are a number of opportunities for 3in1 dimming. For the DIY person there is a few of what has been posted here. Most are what are called "High Side" dimming. if you google that term you will find many opportunities to build a dimming circuit. However if you are not so inclined to soldering and transistors, resistors, capacitors, etc, you m ight be interested in a pcb board already built for PLC or industrial controls and automation. Arduino's are being use used in much PLC now. Here is the link for the pwm driver. they range from $3 to $7 each channel.
2. Timers. Each light fixture needs to be timed for either 12/12, 18/6, 20/4, 3o min at lights out, etc. Each of those schedules requires timers. If you add up the costs of the timers to control each fixture, $30-50 each, the cost goes up quickly. Replacing all of those timers, 8-16 is a change event. never worrying about timers being on schedule or breaking down and requiring replacement, while it stayed on, when the rest of the lights went off. SAD face. I developed the GrowGreen Controller with this the top priority. When you consider the cost of 8 timers at even $20 each $160, is still more than one GrowGreen Controller alone. Dimming becomes the bonus.
3. I have shared all of the circuits I have developed for dimming Meanwell drivers and they all work, as well as those alluded to b y others. In order to build them you need the tools and components, ergo the board available on ebay for $5. Another approach is to use a optocoupler or light emitting diode and a light accepting diode to transfer signal from the 5v Arduino to the 10v Meanwell driver. A number of optocouplers are available for this purpose. You will need a 1k resistor on the pwn pin to the diode, and another 1k resistor, to create the high side switch, between 12v power and the Collector of the transistor, tying the emitter of the transistor to ground. The leads from the two ends of the 1k resistor go to the Meanwell driver. Positive from the power supply goes to the Dim+ and the Collector side of the resistor goes to Dim-, creating a 0-10v circuit driven by the Arduino 5v pwm signal. BTW, if you tap the signal coming out of the Arduino pin and ground, yopu also have a 5v pwm signal to use for on/off functionality of the Meanwell driver, while still having the ability to dim the drivers as well. Available optocouplers are the CYN75B, CYN75GB, 4N25, to name a few available.
4. If you also use supplemental lighting, Far Red, Deep Red, IR, or royal or all the above, you can also control these with an LDD driver board, 4up or 6up from rapid leds, coralux or ebay. you can build them yourself or buy them built, and populate them with various LDD drivers, 800ma, 1000ma, etc. for each supplemental light used. Each of these LDD drivers can also be controlled to dim, or on/off with just a 5v pwm signal. Any LEd controller can do that, but only the GrowGreen controller has 8 channels and flexible control over each channel independent of other channels.
More on the GrowGreen Controller can be found here. https://growgreenled.wordpress.com/
Vegas
AvidLerner
- 296
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Creating a COB fixture with supplemental lighting comparable to the commercial fixtures available on the market today has been my focus from the start. I wanted a DIY light that surpassed mars and others with supplemental led diodes, creating a complete light spectrum. I wanted what is sold, without having to buy one. I bought a commercial light a diamond and realized I could build a better fixture for less, but I would need an led controller to create the same result.
I have been able to build that COB fixture with Deep Red, InfraRed, Far Red, and Royal Blue with two 200w COB drivers using six channels. I can add two more COB fixtures if I desire and have a total of 800w of COB's, four fixtures covering a 4x4 space. Schedule control over all light spectrum is why an eight channel pwm driven arduino uno based system. I did not place my supplemental leds in a circular pattern, I used bar stock heat sinks attached to the main active cooling heat sinks, creating a complete color rendition environment maximizing growth potential with color corrected lighting.
I have read many grow journals for a 4x4 grow. Replacing the timers controlling four COB fixtures alone costs $200. More importantly, having peace of mind that no timer will fail, or change time, or require replacement over time, is reassuring. Dimming COB fixtures is a secondary issue for me, as most COB lights are designed to be on 100% . The led controller lights each fixture one after another instead all on at once reducing inrush current issues for the grow site.
This is why I built the eight channel version. The six channel version can support a smaller grow of a 3x3 or a 2x4 grow. I wanted peace of mind. I have that now. I want others to have that same piece of mind so growers can focus on what they do best create and grow great genetics. That is why there is a DIY version, which I support fully, just as if you bought a GrowGreen from me, I support you and help you get the controller up and running the way you want it to run. Just as important, the code is in the public domain allowing for even more changes to come from the community
I did not start this to create a sell-able product, I started this to fill a void that I feel is needed for the DIY community to create a quality lighting environment, led lighting control's. peace
I have been able to build that COB fixture with Deep Red, InfraRed, Far Red, and Royal Blue with two 200w COB drivers using six channels. I can add two more COB fixtures if I desire and have a total of 800w of COB's, four fixtures covering a 4x4 space. Schedule control over all light spectrum is why an eight channel pwm driven arduino uno based system. I did not place my supplemental leds in a circular pattern, I used bar stock heat sinks attached to the main active cooling heat sinks, creating a complete color rendition environment maximizing growth potential with color corrected lighting.
I have read many grow journals for a 4x4 grow. Replacing the timers controlling four COB fixtures alone costs $200. More importantly, having peace of mind that no timer will fail, or change time, or require replacement over time, is reassuring. Dimming COB fixtures is a secondary issue for me, as most COB lights are designed to be on 100% . The led controller lights each fixture one after another instead all on at once reducing inrush current issues for the grow site.
This is why I built the eight channel version. The six channel version can support a smaller grow of a 3x3 or a 2x4 grow. I wanted peace of mind. I have that now. I want others to have that same piece of mind so growers can focus on what they do best create and grow great genetics. That is why there is a DIY version, which I support fully, just as if you bought a GrowGreen from me, I support you and help you get the controller up and running the way you want it to run. Just as important, the code is in the public domain allowing for even more changes to come from the community
I did not start this to create a sell-able product, I started this to fill a void that I feel is needed for the DIY community to create a quality lighting environment, led lighting control's. peace
AvidLerner
- 296
- 63
yesdog
- 13
- 3
lol I've been search the internet high-and-low trying to hook up the meanwell 3-1 dimming to a raspberry pi.... and I somehow end up at thc farmer.
So this doesn't damage the arduino at all? I saw some vague reference that you might end up with issues because the dimmer circuit ground and the arduino ground aren't guaranteed to be common. I was going to try this out with an octocoupler, but the NPN route was the first one i was thinking.
So this doesn't damage the arduino at all? I saw some vague reference that you might end up with issues because the dimmer circuit ground and the arduino ground aren't guaranteed to be common. I was going to try this out with an octocoupler, but the NPN route was the first one i was thinking.
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AvidLerner
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It works great. You can get those 5v to 10v converters for $4 each to dim a driver. There are a lot of solutions available. The trick is to not invert the signal.
AvidLerner
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I designed a controller arduino based. No harm works great.
yesdog
- 13
- 3
just fried my first transistor trying this lol (not with the driver yet)
yesdog
- 13
- 3
so, i got it working with a 3.3v PWM to 5V PWM (both from the pi) and a voltmeter where the dimmer would go.
It works, but the curve is.... really weird. Between 50-100% the adjustments only lower current. Below 50% it starts lowering actual voltage... I suck way too much at this stuff to know what that means.
Do I need to lower my input current more? Hmm, maybe a 2K resistor?
It works, but the curve is.... really weird. Between 50-100% the adjustments only lower current. Below 50% it starts lowering actual voltage... I suck way too much at this stuff to know what that means.
Do I need to lower my input current more? Hmm, maybe a 2K resistor?
AvidLerner
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try a 10uf cap to slow down the draining.
AvidLerner
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I feel there is much more to arduino dimming than just creating sunrise and sunset scenarios. The ability to control on/off timing with accuracy is more important. A LED contr0ller allows the DIY builder to create a light similar to ChilledLED, MARS, or any other high end LED light with multi-spectrum lighting. Mots of the expensive LED lights have Reds, Blues, 3500k, and 5000k white light. Using a Controller you can add these additional lights creating a custom light spectrum similar to those $1500 and up lights. Color spectrum influences plant growth, proven by NASA. Reds, Blues, IR, UV, etc all are available to the DIY'er with an LED Controller.
T
Taylor Smith
- 16
- 3
I am extremely interested in learning how to use adruino, Are there any kits you would recommend? I have a diy led running on a storm controller I still need to install a relay so the power supply shuts off when dimmed down to 10%. I would really like to build my own controller specific to growing the storm has a lot of stuff that I d.on't need. I would also like to be able to monitor and controller the temperature of my heat sinks using a thermisistor instead of a thermocouple
I have 10 Cob modules with synjet cooler. the synjets can be pwm speed controlled and the controlled can modulate based on a desired temp. But I don't want to just measure the temperature of only one module or have 10 Different channels. My Idea is to have a thermisistor on each module and wire them in series on one channel and use the sum of their resistance to extrapolate the average temperature among all the heat sinks. temperature is a great way of monitoring an leds performance. If I notice a jump in the average temperature I could then have second channel used for trouble shooting, where I measure the temperature of each individual module by physically plugging the second channel into them. this way I can figure out which led is causing the loss in performance
I have 10 Cob modules with synjet cooler. the synjets can be pwm speed controlled and the controlled can modulate based on a desired temp. But I don't want to just measure the temperature of only one module or have 10 Different channels. My Idea is to have a thermisistor on each module and wire them in series on one channel and use the sum of their resistance to extrapolate the average temperature among all the heat sinks. temperature is a great way of monitoring an leds performance. If I notice a jump in the average temperature I could then have second channel used for trouble shooting, where I measure the temperature of each individual module by physically plugging the second channel into them. this way I can figure out which led is causing the loss in performance
AvidLerner
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sounds interesting and I hope you the best. Arduino;s have limited pwm pins, eight is the max the then memory comes into play. You may have to go to a mega for more memory but no more pwm pins available. you have to program pwm signals after your first 8.
AvidLerner
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A little update:
I revised the case and removed the front legs and now it is a cube. see. B ut wait there is more. I have been working on an automation lighting system using openHab. Here are some screen shots. enjoy.
I revised the case and removed the front legs and now it is a cube. see. B ut wait there is more. I have been working on an automation lighting system using openHab. Here are some screen shots. enjoy.
T
Taylor Smith
- 16
- 3
Iv been wondering what else I need besides the relay to dim off the meanwell hlg with a potentiometer. The meanwell driver only puts out .1 ma for the dimming signal. the relays that have been recommended require a minimum of 3 ma to trigger it. the microcontrollers with there own power supply put out 10-40 ma which is enough. iv been looking at this pigtail relay from sparkfun or the beefcake relay. can you provide me any insight on how to dim off a meanwell hlg driver with a potentiometer and these relays ?
AvidLerner
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Using a beefcake works well an even easier is to get the adafruit 4 outlet receptacle with pwm control. All you have to do ia run your pwm and gnd to the outlet plug in your fixture and done room to plug in two fixtures in fact
AvidLerner
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For dimming you need a 5v to 10v pwm converter board with a separate 10v power supply connected between the controller and the driver.
T
Taylor Smith
- 16
- 3
yah I know that much but the problem I face is that I dont have a pwm controller (which requires its own power supply) all I have is a potentiometer, the mean well hlg puts out its own voltage and dimms based on what it gets back but the current is only 0.1 mA from what I read on the relays they have a minimum voltage and current that is needed to trigger it the current needed as far higher then .1 mA
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