4 600s or 3 1000s

  • Thread starter Bobby Smith
  • Start date
  • Tagged users None
I

Integra21

What up Bob. I would still seriously consider the MiniGen. The Hydrogen requires water to operate. The mini its optional. The Mini also produces much less heat than the Hydrogen(Like 1/10) and is much easier to cool. If you give them a call though and tell them your garden dimensions, they'll tell you what one you should use for sure. And the split a/c's suck out co2 for sure, but not like crazy. My minigen is right next to my portable a/c(worst possible spot for getting sucked out)and when it kicks on, the MiniGen keeps it at 1350ppm the whole time its running and then shoots back up to 1500ppm about 30sec after the a/c goes out. And I know this sounds retarded, but if you can build a table/shelf sturdy enough to set your portable a/c on it will sick out far less co2 and will cool your room more efficiently. So I thought I'd give you another idea to dwell on. They use the same technique down south when they run the ducts in houses and place them high up on walls so that the cold air will drop thought the whole room instead of pooling down low and having to build its way up. Not sure on the ceiling, I would say drywall, but obviously thats out. As far as insulation, I would see which one you can get the most of with the highest R value. The higher the R the better it insulates. The better you insulate, the more likely you'll be able to keep your temps under control. I feel like Im forgetting something. Oh, after you did your gas piping did you leak test? If not, just take some dish soap and mix it with water in a spray bottle and spray all the joints you worked on. If it bubbles anywhere, thats a leak. And one last positive not to make you feel better about your work, Natural gas burns about 1200F cooler than propane, so for the same amount of co2 produced, half the amount of heat is produced. Just a fun fact for ya.
 
B

Bobby Smith

What up Bob. I would still seriously consider the MiniGen. The Hydrogen requires water to operate. The mini its optional. The Mini also produces much less heat than the Hydrogen(Like 1/10) and is much easier to cool. If you give them a call though and tell them your garden dimensions, they'll tell you what one you should use for sure. And the split a/c's suck out co2 for sure, but not like crazy. My minigen is right next to my portable a/c(worst possible spot for getting sucked out)and when it kicks on, the MiniGen keeps it at 1350ppm the whole time its running and then shoots back up to 1500ppm about 30sec after the a/c goes out. And I know this sounds retarded, but if you can build a table/shelf sturdy enough to set your portable a/c on it will sick out far less co2 and will cool your room more efficiently. So I thought I'd give you another idea to dwell on. They use the same technique down south when they run the ducts in houses and place them high up on walls so that the cold air will drop thought the whole room instead of pooling down low and having to build its way up. Not sure on the ceiling, I would say drywall, but obviously thats out. As far as insulation, I would see which one you can get the most of with the highest R value. The higher the R the better it insulates. The better you insulate, the more likely you'll be able to keep your temps under control. I feel like Im forgetting something. Oh, after you did your gas piping did you leak test? If not, just take some dish soap and mix it with water in a spray bottle and spray all the joints you worked on. If it bubbles anywhere, thats a leak. And one last positive not to make you feel better about your work, Natural gas burns about 1200F cooler than propane, so for the same amount of co2 produced, half the amount of heat is produced. Just a fun fact for ya.
That minigen wouldn't be able to come close to producing the amount of CO2 I need - plus, I have a hose hookup in the garage, so I just need to drill a little 3/4" hole through the exterior wall and run a little PVC to drain through and I'm golden - all the CO2 I want with none (well, very little) of the heat associated with it.

And no, I didn't leak test, but I've been "smell testing", and there ain't shit that I can smell - my girl's home and she's paranoid as fuck, so she'll smell anything sooner rather than later - pretty confident in saying that it's good to go at this point.

And as far as elevating the portable AC, that was already in the plans, so it's good to hear that others do it and it seems to work.

And that fun fact made me smile - thanks meng.
 
I

Integra21

You should still give it the spray test. Some leaks are just too small to smell, it only takes a couple of minutes and you should do it everytime you mess with the gas. Better safe than sorry.
 
B

Bobby Smith

I know I should, but it was a bitch getting the oven back in place very carefully and there's not a lick of gas smell, so unless that changes I'm gonna assume I'm okay.

Also, gonna order the Marey 10L model (basically a Hydrogen) soon - would order it today, but my girl's gonna order it because then she can claim the 30% tax credit (energy efficient appliance) on her tax return next year (including installation costs, even if I do them myself).

So the generator is $250, plus my $250 in installation, and she'll get the $150 tax credit.

So basically it's $100 for it, which is nice :)

BTW, started another thread on it, but mini-splits are also eligible for the tax credit - 30% (up to $1500), including installation costs - increase your rebate $450 if you so desire.
 
R

RMCG

Why the switch back again?

I haven't heard of any issues with using HW heaters (don't know about NG model), but I know HI discontinued (still sell a kit though) their NG model due to low pressure issues in Western states (CA & CO primarily).


Even when battery powered, the D Cells last for months. Probably would be no big thing to swap in a low voltage power supply.
 
B

Bobby Smith

Why the switch back again?

I haven't heard of any issues with using HW heaters (don't know about NG model), but I know HI discontinued (still sell a kit though) their NG model due to low pressure issues in Western states (CA & CO primarily).


Even when battery powered, the D Cells last for months. Probably would be no big thing to swap in a low voltage power supply.
Yeah, I emailed the dude over there first thing this morning to inquire about a NG Hydrogen and he said that they stopped making them, so that pretty much made up my mind.

The rebate is a nice little added bonus, though.

But to answer your question, I change my mind about everything related to my growroom about every five minutes - no lie.
 
B

Bobby Smith

Got a New Toy

Haha

Yeah, I've noticed!

:smirk
I like options, what can I say? :ridinghorse: (not sure how that smiley relates, but it made me laugh when I saw it)

Anyhow, made a couple of changes - chopped 1' off of the table legs in the tent, giving the plants some more headroom (up top, obviously) and hopefully helping temps out in there.

The bigger change to deal with the temps was setting up the exhaust fan to actually pull through the light instead of just pulling random tent air out.

Anyhow, got my EZ 120 today - thing's pretty big, and for someone who's never used aero, it's kinda cool seeing how much water it moves around.

Took about 15 clones (only Super Skunk, thinking I'm gonna ditch the bagseed, but only if I have enough SS clones) - pH is 5.8, and TDS is 200 (threw in a touch of Superthrive to my 150TDS water).

Oh, also pulled my pH and TDS meters outta hibernation, and my pH meter was fucked to all hell - going from jibberish to 18+ (a mythical pH) and generally all over the place. Anyhow, took out the piece of paper that was on the left side (across from the round glass thingy), and it seems to work now - calibrated it a shitload, and I don't necessarily trust it, but it's showing 7.0 and 4.0 when it should.

Calibrated my TDS pen and that was straight, didn't even need to adjust it.
 
S

spl

im just stoked to see u get this shit up and runnin man. i never invested in a light meter so i cant rec one to u but im startin to think its time to get one. i hate guesswork and cant do controlled experiements with guesswork. lol. plz share ur findings or PM me if u dont mind. the garage does sound like a better solution. ill b lurkin...
Granger has some great meters we use in the lighting biz here in Colorado
 
B

Bobby Smith

Quickie Update

Ceiling is framed, now I just need to frame out the front wall with the door and then I'm gonna start drywalling - shooting to be done all the major work by the end of this weekend, then handle the "leftovers" (plumbing, setting up the natural gas heater, working on sealing the garage door).

Didn't do much this weekend, but ordered the Marey 10L water heater, an electric solenoid to run it off my hose, a new pH meter, and some random other shit.

Will get pics up tomorrow of my progress - can actually see the light at the end of the tunnel.

Also, EZ is running pretty hot (low 80s), but that's because the room/tent it's in is running too hot.........was about to order a chiller for it, but then realized that water temps (most likely) won't be an issue when its in its permanent home.
 
B

Bobby Smith

Pictures and Questions

Before my laundry list of questions and things to do, just thought I'd mention that I've now decided that I'm gonna run a 1K over my 4x4 E&F table next to my octagon ("out in the open", not in a tent or anything - want the light overlap) - figure I can run head strains on there, determine what genetics are worth keeping, etc. - basically, have decided that I've gone through too much fucking work to only be running 2400 watts in flower.

Also, in case anyone's wondering why I have that massive DeWalt table saw, I bought that thinking it was made to cut wood - it's not, as evidenced by the burned piece of 2x4 that you see. Oh well, $200 down the drain.........I'm a moron, but I will use it to cut some PVC, so it's not a total loss.

1) You can see that the door is in its frame and it opens and closes fine, but I haven't screwed it into anything yet - do I just throw some screws in it from the inside and attach to the 2x4s it's resting agains?

2) The door is clearly designed for 2x6s and not 2x4s - is this a big enough problem to worry about? Seems to swing open and shut fine without even being screwed in yet. BTW, that thing is a steel door, heavy as fuck, and I had to try to fit it into that space off the ground solo - was a SERIOUS pain in the ass.

3) AC got delivered - it's pretty damn heavy.

4) Anyone got any good ideas about what to do with the actual garage door? I guess I could build a frame around it and drywall, but that sure seems like a lot of work - anyone got a better idea?

5) Does anyone know if I can hang drywall from the ceiling, even though the ceiling is at 24" instead of 16" spacing? I could move it to 16" relatively easily if I needed to, but since the drywall would only be holding insulation on top of it, was wondering if I could get away with 24" - anyone have some input?

6) Anyone know what I'd need to drill through siding (like siding on your house)? Need to drill a hole to run some PVC out and am wondering what kinda bit I'd need. On that same note, anyone know how hard it'd be to drill through a gutter?

So, things I still need to do before drywall:

1) Install plumbing - going to run ~1" PVC from the room, through the wall and siding, and straight into a gutter - don't want neighbors wondering why there's hot water creating steam from my garage in the middle of winter.

2) Seal up the garage door - some way, some how, gotta get that done.

3) Run a "T" off of the hose outlet so that I can use that water line to do my drain to waste CO2 generator and also to use my R/O filter.

4) Make a little 1' tall by 10' long panel to place under the door/4x4 for the insulation/drywall - gonna be a pain in the ass because that cement is SO uneven and not level.

5) Secure the ceiling 2x4s with screws (the boards are just "loose" in the joists right now).

6) Spackle and "Great Stuff" all gaps/leaks.

7) Install door knob/lock/etc.

Other than that, plants are looking well - starting to see "nubs" on the clones in the EZ, which to me indicates that roots should pop within the next coupla days.
 
B

Bobby Smith

Last Pics

Sorry about all the pics of the door, but that thing was a fucking bitch to work with, especially a foot and a half off the ground.

Anyways, if anyone sees anything in the pics that they think is a bad move or has a good tip, please don't be shy.

Thanks guys; getting kinda excited to get near the end of construction (on the room) and get to construction on the octagon - the fun part :party0033:
 
R

RMCG

That table saw looks like a 'chop saw'... Good for pvc, brick, etc. Not really what you want.

Use 1/4" drywall for the ceilings. Not as heavy so 24" centers are no problem.

Can you just staple 2 sheets of panda around the garage door? Might need to nail up some headers/footers to hold it.
 
B

Bobby Smith

That table saw looks like a 'chop saw'... Good for pvc, brick, etc. Not really what you want.

Use 1/4" drywall for the ceilings. Not as heavy so 24" centers are no problem.

Can you just staple 2 sheets of panda around the garage door? Might need to nail up some headers/footers to hold it.
Yeah, talked about it in the second paragraph - not a biggie that you missed it; I know I type too much, but I like to treat these as a journal that I can review. It was pretty funny when I was telling the guy in Home Depot how I almost set the 2x4 on fire with it.

"Also, in case anyone's wondering why I have that massive DeWalt table saw, I bought that thinking it was made to cut wood - it's not, as evidenced by the burned piece of 2x4 that you see. Oh well, $200 down the drain.........I'm a moron, but I will use it to cut some PVC, so it's not a total loss."

And do you think that 1/4" drywall would be able to support thick insulation on top with those 24" centers? I guess if I'm asking (since I'm trying to do this right), I should probably just make them 16" centers, huh?

And I could do that for the garage door, but I'm thinking this is the last time I'll have the chance to do this for at least 20 years, so I'm gonna try to do it right - gonna frame out some 2x4s, and insulated and drywall them.

Man, there's still a lot to do.
 
B

Bobby Smith

Starting To Roll A Little Bit

Since I can't predict the order the pics are gonna come out, I'll just tell you what they are and you can match statement to pics.

1) Marey got delivered
2) Electric solenoid for Marey got delivered
3) I RAN PLUMBING!! (makes me happy :party0044:)
4) Cheapo pH meter got delivered - just needs to last for one grow, and then I'm getting a few trimeters
5) That big ass saw was useful for cutting PVC - almost fun, in a way
6) You can see how bad the clones are yellowing - guessing some kinda pH issue (couldn't check it until now, so I'll check it when I'm done typing this)
7) The stems are all bulbous and thick (2X as thick as they were pre-EZ) which to me (hopefully) indicates that rooting will be taking place soon
8) Door is now fully installed - hadn't done the screws yesterday, but did today and it's working marvelously

As you can see, ran 3 "T"s to that drain line (3/4" PVC), allowing me to run the Marey, the RO filter waste, and a "general use" waste pump into the same pipe.

So that's about it for today's update - saw that 15/32 plywood is on sale for $15/sheet at Home Depot, so I *might* actually try to start installing the ceiling tomorrow.

Jesus, actually getting a little ahead of schedule on the construction.........now if only the plants/clones will cooperate and lemme start rocking and rolling on October 1st.

Oh, with how much fun I had (seriously, it was pretty enjoyable) with the PVC today, I was giving some serious thought to building a Heath Robinson flooded tube vertical (or something similar) and dropping the "126 wyes" idea - anyone have thoughts on this? Would allow me customize the structure more and also be 1/20th the cost.

As always, comments, questions and/or criticism is always welcome.
 
B

Bobby Smith

Quickie Post

A couple of questions:

1) Does it matter if I have 6" thick insulation laying across the drywall on the ceiling? Since I framed it with 2x4s, there'd be 2" of insulation above the wood - that's not an issue, is it? The more insulation the better, no?

2) Anyone have any good ideas for the floor? Can't decide/figure out if I should paint it, try to tape panda to it, etc. Any input would be awesome - it's a cracked and uneven concrete floor.

BTW, checked the pH in the EZ and it was 7.8............drunkenly dropped 2 tablespoons of pH down in it last night, checked it this morning and it's at 5.2.........should rise to right about 6 and stay there, hopefully.

Also, posted a video just to kinda recap the updates I've done and also to ask some questions:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J7N4CeOjxxo
 
Top Bottom