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707finishers first indoor grow, small tent.

Sorry wedding cake fans, not quite finished, but I need room, and it’s still had some bugs, was the source of them, think they are in the smaller herer now, the smart pots really mess with their cycle, can’t crawl into the bottom of the pots. I’m hoping 1...
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707finishers first indoor grow, small tent.

by 707finisher · Started
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Sorry wedding cake fans, not quite finished, but I need room, and it’s still had some bugs, was the source of them, think they are in the smaller herer now, the smart pots really mess with their cycle, can’t crawl into the bottom of the pots. I’m hoping 1 of the 3 cuttings I took makes it. But it took sooooooo long to flower, like 3 months. Probably partly all the abuse it went through. The jack herer grew from seed and is almost through flower and it’s 2 months younger
 

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Clones rooting well mostly, the water smells a little ammonia, I’m using organic fert in the hydro machine, I need to buy some flora bloom or something. I also need to toss the water and start over, it’s close to max ppm, and I’m concerned about the mineral balance, think the wedding cake cuttings are already toast, the mothers are coming back so fast going to need to start lst to even out the canopies. Need to stop using grow and micro, use bloom and something with trace nitro maybe superthrive, it’s .5 nitro I think. Smart pots are a pain in the ass for lst, for moving around, for anything more than helping a plant get started outside, need to use stakes, like 3 or 4 can’t use the pot very well. It smashes the top of the soil in, the plants hate it!
 
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Veg tent, mothers look way better in person all except the skittles Greened up a lot. Everything’s looking way better with healthy watering and better lighting and nutrients
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All the clones are doing good, the key lime and skittles are starting to flower now, hope they stretch another 6” or so, otherwise be some tiny plants lol, call them grenades lol, melon slowly getting started to, hopefully this will be my magic strain lol.
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Some more room with the wedding cake gone, not much though lol, the big herer is finishing fast though, couple weeks it will be gone to I bet
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Well I tested the clones again, they have been eating the tds now, it doesn’t smell like ammonia anymore and has dropped quite a bit, I decided not to change the water. I turned up the lights. 150watts t5 instead of 50
 
Ph was 6.o5 last night Ppm up to 465, I decided to ride it out and see what happens.
 

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Seemed high to me as well, but water is 2 gallons 150-170 filtered tap water plus 1ml superthrive 1 ml dyna something bloom, 3ml ph down. ended up 450ish, read about 400-500 is ok for clones, so I went with it, it’s gone down since some of them are rooted
 
Hey most of my clones made it!
View attachment 934705Can I ask why you keep your PPM that high?
That’s per gallon, I just added a gallon of that mixture, it tested at 360ppm, the old water had lots of stuff in it was almost 500ppm and down to a gallon of water. It ended up450ish after mixing it all togethef
 

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I had company and couldn’t mess with is at much, I almost changed the water a couple times but after the numbers balancing out last minute I just ran with it, calyx are they called? Are forming on even the sad ones, I moved them around a bunch and changed lighting a couple times lol. The mothers of the yellow ones were stressed already so I’m not surprised they sent happy
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Advanced Aeroponic Cloning -- THE SECRETS!
by Michael Goldsmith January 10, 2017
In my article the The 3 Main Reasons Cloners Fail I cover those issues that cause cloning failure and help you gain predictable results. This article is about methods for producing the unbelievable clones you see PermaClone customers rep'ing on Social Media!
This article is about those methods that produce clones covered with roots from collars to cut...and with no loss of growth potential or yellowing above the collars. As always, I keep efficiency and scaled production in mind!
Water Temperature.
In cloning, warmer temperature speed cell divisions with diminishing returns at 87 °F (30 °C). However, this also speeds growth of bacteria and fungi. Before attempting higher temps, get sterile! Deep Water Culture (DWC) is different than aeroponics. With DWC the goal is the best temps for both oxygenation AND root growth. The convention is currently 65 - 68 °F. We believe this temperature recommendation may increase as techniques improve for effective water treatment.
Use an IR Thermometer or permanently placed temperature meter to quickly measure water temperatures. This is fast while preventing contamination of your cloner. We have found external IR readings to be within 0 – 2 degrees below the actual internal temperature and this range depends on the ambient room temperature. For example, if your ambient temperature is 75 °F and your cloner is at 85 °F (29 °C), you IR reading may be 83 °F (28 °C). Alternatively, if your ambient temperature is 75 °F and your cloner is at 77 °F, your IR reading will be relatively precise.
More Nodes & Shoot Apices
Every shoot apex produces auxins (rooting hormones). The more nodes left untrimmed from your cutting, the more endogenous (natural) auxins will be produced and sent to the basal (bottom) end of cuttings. The goal is 3 – 6 nodes left uncut. You may remove the fan leaves to avoid shading other clones but this is not necessary with aeroponics, DWC or bubbleponic cloning.
Removing Leaves
Cutting fan leaves has traditionally been intended to decrease transpiration, but that’s not a concern in aeroponics. We recommend trimming leaves to avoid shading other clones OR if your source plants are over-fed nutrients with dark green leaves. Below we discuss how to maintain mother plants for effective cloning. Leaves will help generate the carbohydrates needed for prolific rooting.
Lighting
The common suggestion has been minimal lighting. People often place a single T5 1 – 2 feet above the cloner canopy. This was because plugs couldn't hydrate the cuts enough to prevent wilting. This is not the case with hydroponics cloning. Over time we noticed shaded clones rooted slowest or failed. We ramped up lighting to 4 bulb T5 flourescent fixtures at 4” from our cloners’ canopies and achieved significant improvements in cloning rates, speed, AND root mass. This is particularly important when taking multiple clones per collar. We currently recommend 4 – 8 bulb T5 fixtures 4” from the canopy with mixed blue and red spectrum bulbs.
Cloner Nutrients
Adding 1/4 -1/2 strength bloom nutrients (200–600 ppm or EC: 0.4–1.2) to the cloner improves rooting both in speed and volume. We recommend nutrients intended for water culture. Avoid products which will inoculate or feed bacteria and fungi such as amino acids, protein hydrolysates, sugars, carbohydrates, or ‘teas’. Do not add beneficial bacteria or fungi. We suspect there may be a bacteria or fungi for aeroponics, but have yet to demonstrate strains of interest for long-term effectiveness.
Hormone products
Auxins improve rooting time and root volume. Gels and powders wash off and are time-consuming to apply. We have found efficiency in water soluble hormones such as Hormex Liquid Concentrate, Rhizopon AA, and KLN Rooting Concentrate. Each ensure adequate exposure times and eliminate the workload. We have worked mostly with Hormex Liquid Concentrate at 3 – 6 mL/gal. These product do not contain minerals. It is important you include a mineral nutrient in concert with hormone products for maximum performance. Do not use hormones without mineral nutrients, the results are NOT the same.
Pump Cycle Times
Cycle timing is primarily used for temperature management. Through extensive testing we have found faster rooting at warmer temperatures with diminishing returns above 87 °F (30 °C). We suggest 75 °F – 85 °F (24 - 29 °C)
Callus tissue
Callus or Callous is non-specific plant tissue that can become many different cell types depending on environmental factors or plant growth regulators. If you achieve extensive callusing, but roots lag, cycle your pump 15 min ON/45-60 min OFF for 24 – 48 hours or until 2 – 3 mm of roots form. Then set your cycle time to that which achieves the ideal temperatures. Over-callousing would indicate the need to lower hormone dosage for that particular strain.
If you’re using a DWC cloner and achieve extensive callous growth, change the water to mineral nutrient alone and eliminate the hormone product. Likely the hormone is pushing callous production and preventing root initiation from this non-differentiated tissue. In this situation, consider lowering your dosage to avoid the extra work of changing the water.
Mother Plants
Feed mother plants low strength bloom nutrients (TDS: 300 – 400 ppm; EC: 0.6 – 0.8 mS of base nutrients) while maintaining normal doses of Calcium, Magnesium, silicate, and kelp extracts. Aim for a total TDS of 500 – 600 ppm on the 500 scale (i.e. EC 1.0 – 1.2 mS) with additives. The goal is to minimize nitrogen to just above deficiency levels while maintaining all other nutrients and endogenous auxins (rooting) hormones. Lower nitrogen induces increased carbohydrate storage in the stem of mother plants. Silicon nutrients (such as silicic acid or potassium silicate) have been correlated with improved root mass in cuttings when applied to mother plants. There are points of antagonism, so use the intermediate recommended dosage of silicates.
Foliar applications of kelp-based products the day before taking cutting improves auxin levels within the plant (systemically) and improve rooting speed and volume. Auxins travel fast within plants, but do require several hours to be distributed systemically. We recommend applying 24 hours before taking cuttings.
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Going to be studying this
 
The romie is another fast strain it seems, maybe they all do compared to the wedding cake lol. I don’t think it will get as big and chunky as the jack, it sure is looking frosty though. Not sure what I’m doing still lol But my lst worked great for a bushy effect. The romie’s from a different company, hprc. I’m goliving it 1-1-2ml of the micro grow bloom mix, it’s stopped getting yellow and greened up some, going to increase it to 1.5-1.5-3 once this mixture is used up
 

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New test 😅😅😅

my lady and kids got me solo cups for my bday, they got the clear cups to small but I didn’t want to say anything, here we go lol.

Testing the solo cups

testing fine perlite 75% and 25% ffof perlite mix against just the ffof perlite.

also testing seed maturity, did 2 nice fat dark seeds, 2 medium ripe seeds, and 2 pretty light immature seeds. On of each in fine perlite mix and onein the ocean forest.
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Donating most of this stuff to some friends with disabilities, I had to figure out what to do with them, the mothers need cut back regularly anyway as I shape them into bonsai 😁
 
Side project. Wind block to make it warmer, going to make mini green house inside here lol
 

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Checked clone water, ppm was down to 265 ph up to 6, added dynagro bloom 1 ml brought it up to 365 ppm so added .5 ml superthrive and called it good
 
Going to replace them as they get secondary roots. Don’t think the wedding cakes gonna make it, looks like all the others will though
 

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