a/c 4000w bare bulb grow with a window banger

[mrdizzle]

I want to make one of my rooms a sealed room. I would love a mini split but im worried about if it breaks down what would I do plus the installation aspect ect. i also want to try out the sealed room so how crazy the yeilds are before I drop the cake

I want to make a a/c box inside the roomthe rooms like 11x11 4k vertical bare bulbs, bottled c02

would a 18000btu be enough to cool a 4k grow. I could set up cooltubes with ridged ducting if it cant, i feel like a 24000btu one would turn on and off too much?

also do they make window units with inverter technology

thanks for any info

 

[ugmjfarmer]

With cooltubes or aircooled lights, you should be able to keep the temp in the room from rising overly fast. Then the 1 Ton AC (12k per ton) should work, but oversize appropriately. If you have 4kw, what happens when you want to add another 2k? :)

Just to think though, I did a bare bulb 2k w/out an A/C and just ran 800cfm in and out. It was enough to keep the temp from rising more than 10 degree over ambient. I guess the big question is, what is the air temp in your home (ambient). My room was in a garage, so the ambient was the outside air. In the middle of summer I pushed 90's on 80 degree days.

 

[mrdizzle]

right now i run 4 bulbs bare vertical, 10in hydrofarm green booster fan intake, and a 12in vortex outtake 78degrees all da. its usally cold at night I live on the coast no real room for more bulbs, my other room is 5kw, 4 of those are in cool tubes. the window banger is only $450 so its worth trying it first i guess. not to stoke about building a big gay a/c box thou

 

[true grit]

Nice to hear, I plan on running bare bulbs here in the cold ass weather and if 4k only slightly raises ambient hopefully I shouldnt have heat issues. How big of a difference in room temp to ambient air being pumped in? As in, even in closed boxes temp and humidity inside lights off is still slightly higher than outside box... just curious as I plan on bringing in fresh filtered freezing air from outside but my intake fan is only 2/3 cfm of output fan.

 

[sky high]

Heya grit.

One of these works well to keep the temps in check...



not too expensive either. I have my entire room (1 fan in..one fan out...circulation fans in room) set on one of these. "Quantum" makes one that is a digital that does the same thing.

You will dog the cold air here...but you want safeguards so it doesn't backfire on you and make bud pops. AC?? WTF is that?

gonna shoot you a PM.....

s h

 

[true grit]

SH- So I replied to your PM before readin the post, so sorry if some of is redundant or extra.

But- You rock my friend!! That is exactly what I was looking for, for my intake fan to control that freezing intake air. Only complication I see is having to run a good 5-10 ft duct before the fan so the temp the controller reads is actual room temp and not cold as intake temp. How is that working for your room? Does it cut on both fan simultaneously or independent control of each?

 

[Denny Crane]

Nice to hear, I plan on running bare bulbs here in the cold ass weather and if 4k only slightly raises ambient hopefully I shouldnt have heat issues. How big of a difference in room temp to ambient air being pumped in? As in, even in closed boxes temp and humidity inside lights off is still slightly higher than outside box... just curious as I plan on bringing in fresh filtered freezing air from outside but my intake fan is only 2/3 cfm of output fan.

Reverse the fans. You need more air coming in than going out to keep up the flow. If your exhaust fan moves more air than is coming in, it's efficiency is exponentially reduced. You can't suck 400 Cf of air out of a room with nothing coming in to take it's place.
Can you put in some passive intake vents?

 

[true grit]

Well actually no, I'd rather be exhausting more hot air than what I'm pushing in. Regardless of how hard I try, there will be extra air that enters the room as I can not totally seal it, and the fan will pull air regardless of an intake fan or not. One of those, I wish I could completely seal off but I can't lol. The window unit may take care of the intake/exhaust issue, but for the winter I'm sure the 600cfm intake fan on a thermoswitch will work out alright. Should be plenty of cool air coming in.

And maybe I'm bass akwards, but I'd rather the larger fan be pulling all the fresh air out that is coming in and look for more fresh air to pull out than having more air than can exhaust, which would constantly leave some amount of stale excess and possibly warmer air. I think of it as a constant cool breeze for the plants. lol.

 

[hbstoner]

Well actually no, I'd rather be exhausting more hot air than what I'm pushing in. Regardless of how hard I try, there will be extra air that enters the room as I can not totally seal it, and the fan will pull air regardless of an intake fan or not. One of those, I wish I could completely seal off but I can't lol. The window unit may take care of the intake/exhaust issue, but for the winter I'm sure the 600cfm intake fan on a thermoswitch will work out alright. Should be plenty of cool air coming in.

And maybe I'm bass akwards, but I'd rather the larger fan be pulling all the fresh air out that is coming in and look for more fresh air to pull out than having more air than can exhaust, which would constantly leave some amount of stale excess and possibly warmer air. I think of it as a constant cool breeze for the plants. lol.

You are right you always want a bigger cfm fan on the exaust then the intake. Having a larger fan on the intake will cause smell leaks due to positive pressure.

 

[true grit]

Yeah my tent usually looks like a vacuum. Never had a problem.

 

[mrdizzle]

always bigger out than in, neg pressure keeps your block from stankin.

oh yeah........anyone think the A/C is big enough?

and do they make window models with the DC inverter technology

 

[trugreens]

great idea

thx for the idea about running my bulbs bare. It's starting to get cooler and that's going to help me out.