Minion said:

Quick one, I know re potting autos is usually a no no. But I think I've got roots emerging at the surface under the rock balls, I can probs get another inch depth of soil on top, or of I'm proper careful is there any way I could risk a transplant this late, it's not quite a 3G pot I don't think :/

Click to expand...

Quagmire said:

I transplant all of mine right after they show sex... that way I don't have to use a bunch of 3gal pots to find my females.. try watering the night before you transplant to help hold the soil together when moving it around.. I've done this on all 3 of my grows with autos transplanting from 1gal pots to 3gal pots... I use chunks of Styrofoam in the base of the 3gal pot to avoid clogging up the drain holes... it's sterile and cheap and light.... hehe.. good luck

Click to expand...

Seraphim19 said:

ok guys I am back with the first installment of this thread and seeing as you want the best out of yours Tnelz I will start with a quick explanation of the lifecycle of auto flowering plants and then move on to the best growing methods.

LIFECYCLE OF AN AUTO

A common question I see is when to switch autos from veg to bloom. Many people are under the impression that as soon as they see the first flowers it's time to switch. Perhaps a little explanation of the life cycle of autos will help to clarify this.

Weeks 1 - 3. Once you've started your seeds and they break the surface of the soil, they are in their seedling stage. The first set of leaves to appear will usually single fingered, followed by a second set that may still be single fingered or perhaps 3 fingered. Once that second set appears growth will start to accelerate as the new leaves provide more photosynthesis. This process will continue, more new leaves, faster growth. Depending on the type of soil in use, mild vegetative nutes can be introduced at week 2. By week 3 most plants will start to show their sex. Males will start to produce pollen sacks and females will display pistils.

Weeks 4 - 6. The plants are now entering a pre flowering stage. During this time the plants should exhibit explosive growth, often as much as a new set of nodes and 1" vertical growth a day. This is the time when they will gain most of their vertical height. Many people make the mistake of switching from vegetative to flowering nutrients at this point, assuming that since they see flowers it must be the proper time. This is incorrect. If the switch to flowering nutes is made at this time the vertical growth will stop and the plant will put it's energy into producing buds. If you need to keep your plants small, or want them to finish earlier, they by all means switch nutes at this point. But if you want to get the most out of your plants continue feeding vegetative nutes until you see the vertical growth slow and stop. Depending on the strain that will usually be sometime during week 5 or 6.

Weeks 7 - 9. By now vertical growth has stopped and the switch to flowering nutrients has been made. The buds will start to fill out and put on weight, becoming hard and tight. Pistols will start to change from white to brown, orange, red, etc. By now the plants will also have developed a strong smell. Toward the end of this phase the large primary and smaller secondary fan leaves will begin to turn yellow. This is an indication that the plant is moving toward the end of it's life.

Weeks 10 - 11. At this time flowering nutes should be discontinued and only plain pHed water fed to flush the remaining nutrients from the soil and improve the taste. Yellowing of the fan leaves will continue as the plant draws the stored energy from them. Eventually they will die and fall off. By the time that the smaller leaves that come from out of the buds will also start to turn yellow. Then it's time to harvest.

I know that many of you are thinking that the seed bank said the plants will finish in 8-9 weeks, so why are you saying they take 10-11? The claims made by the seed banks are somewhat deceptive. If you switch to flowering nutes at week 3 or 4 the plants can finish in the times the seed banks say but they will remain small and not reach their full potential yield. Years of growing by myself and others has shown that autos do best if you follow this time line.

Of course, there will always be variations depending on the strain, the environment, nutrients, etc. This information is meant to only serve as a general guideline.

Click to expand...

Quagmire said:

My plants at day 45ish
View attachment 536106 View attachment 536107 View attachment 536108 View attachment 536109

Click to expand...

Quagmire said:

Not really.. I used to think this to, then I read 4 grow books, got some experience under my belt and realized the only real true was to tell was going by the trichomes. I found out some plants the pistols change color for many reasons from plant traits, light heat and others.. also pollination will cause this early.. just sit back and enjoy the color change, make sure everything else looks healthy and wait for them buds to fatten up and crown up nicely because an early chop can make all that hard work go to waste.. your high will hit you fast and go away just as fast.. Rule of thumb: Clear trichomes= fast up high but won't last long as it should, Milky=morning smoke with a good uplift and really the only early time to chop but will lose out on some weight (my wife likes this high on some strains).. Milky/Amber mi= Good stoney high and at half ambering trichomes it should last a while... ,
All Ambering trichomes= the high most peeps are used to, kind of a drowsy can't get off the couch high and depending on the strain your not gonna get shite done for a few hours.. A great way to get 2 diff highs off a plant is take a percentage at Milky then let the others finish up going amber and actually watch the bud tips crown up and form a flowering head.. hope this helps ya out...
and on your 2nd photo, remove the lowest leafs so the plant can concentrate it's energies on the upper growth ok.. your plants looks great by the way..

Click to expand...

Quagmire said:

Not really.. I used to think this to, then I read 4 grow books, got some experience under my belt and realized the only real true was to tell was going by the trichomes. I found out some plants the pistols change color for many reasons from plant traits, light heat and others.. also pollination will cause this early.. just sit back and enjoy the color change, make sure everything else looks healthy and wait for them buds to fatten up and crown up nicely because an early chop can make all that hard work go to waste.. your high will hit you fast and go away just as fast.. Rule of thumb: Clear trichomes= fast up high but won't last long as it should, Milky=morning smoke with a good uplift and really the only early time to chop but will lose out on some weight (my wife likes this high on some strains).. Milky/Amber mi= Good stoney high and at half ambering trichomes it should last a while... ,
All Ambering trichomes= the high most peeps are used to, kind of a drowsy can't get off the couch high and depending on the strain your not gonna get shite done for a few hours.. A great way to get 2 diff highs off a plant is take a percentage at Milky then let the others finish up going amber and actually watch the bud tips crown up and form a flowering head.. hope this helps ya out...
and on your

Click to expand...

Quagmire said:

Not really.. I used to think this to, then I read 4 grow books, got some experience under my belt and realized the only real true was to tell was going by the trichomes. I found out some plants the pistols change color for many reasons from plant traits, light heat and others.. also pollination will cause this early.. just sit back and enjoy the color change, make sure everything else looks healthy and wait for them buds to fatten up and crown up nicely because an early chop can make all that hard work go to waste.. your high will hit you fast and go away just as fast.. Rule of thumb: Clear trichomes= fast up high but won't last long as it should, Milky=morning smoke with a good uplift and really the only early time to chop but will lose out on some weight (my wife likes this high on some strains).. Milky/Amber mi= Good stoney high and at half ambering trichomes it should last a while... ,
All Ambering trichomes= the high most peeps are used to, kind of a drowsy can't get off the couch high and depending on the strain your not gonna get shite done for a few hours.. A great way to get 2 diff highs off a plant is take a percentage at Milky then let the others finish up going amber and actually watch the bud tips crown up and form a flowering head.. hope this helps ya out...
and on your 2nd photo, remove the lowest leafs so the plant can concentrate it's energies on the upper growth ok.. your plants looks great by the way..

Click to expand...

Quagmire said:

I transplant all of mine right after they show sex... that way I don't have to use a bunch of 3gal pots to find my females.. try watering the night before you transplant to help hold the soil together when moving it around.. I've done this on all 3 of my grows with autos transplanting from 1gal pots to 3gal pots... I use chunks of Styrofoam in the base of the 3gal pot to avoid clogging up the drain holes... it's sterile and cheap and light.... hehe.. good luck

Click to expand...

Quagmire said:

Very nice bro, big big plant for the space.. I FIM cut mine to try and control height a bit.. how long did you veg her?
and I got the name wrong on the cross.. it's supposed to be Demeret..
I also known at another site as Cartman for many years so that's why the one photo says that on it.. lol.
can't wait to see yours later down the road.. thanks for sharing.

Oh, my seeds arrived today.... wooooot woooooot

Click to expand...

Quagmire said:

My plants at day 45ish
View attachment 536106 View attachment 536107 View attachment 536108 View attachment 536109

Click to expand...