Accurate Information About Autoflowering Plants

  • Thread starter Seraphim19
  • Start date
  • Tagged users None
str8smokn

str8smokn

8,036
313
You can add them as suggested.
If it says 5 ml than give it too them. Is it part of the BioBizz line?(start low and work your way up)
Micro shouldn't harm any thing I wouldn't think,just add it to the mix after the 4 th week of growth. Then use it everyother feeding or so stopping around week 7 .
Just my .2
STR8
 
C

CannaBlaster

46
8
You can go Luca formula and leave the grow out or follow the instructions on the bottle.
I don't want to start a shit storm here because I know a lot of people use that "Lucas Formula" however I personally do not believe it provides all the building blocks a plant needs to produce top quality especially in DWC where the plant gets ONLY what the grower directly provides. For photoperiod plants in DWC I use GH Floraseries including all the Advanced nutrients plus Hydroguard and Protekt. All together my plants recieve 13 different products throughout an entire grow and each product has its place. Many people believe these products are a huge marketing skeem to rape money from thier pockets for no bennefits to thier plants. This couldnt be further from the truth, atleast with GH thats not the case. I dont see why auto's would be any different in thier nutrient needs.
 
str8smokn

str8smokn

8,036
313
I used the General Organics Go-Box on my Auto grows ,which might not be the same but it has around 6 extras . Like Marine,Black Diamond ,bio-root and so on,I used all of them on mine with no backlash.
Just use them where it is called for and use low dosages at first until you find the sweet spot.
STR8
 
  • Like
Reactions: A 1
C

CannaBlaster

46
8
I used the General Organics Go-Box on my Auto grows ,which might not be the same but it has around 6 extras . Like Marine,Black Diamond ,bio-root and so on,I used all of them on mine with no backlash.
Just use them where it is called for and use low dosages at first until you find the sweet spot.
STR8
Thats right. I started first week at 250ppms and noticed right away it was getting gobbled up in one day. Im week 3 now of flower and I use 1500ppms and I have to top off everyday with nutes because this strain is eating 500-600ppms everyday and a gallon of water. PH stays perfect almost all the time. Here recently my PH dropped from 6.0 to 4.0 two days in a row, then the 3rd day it dropped to 5.0, then 5.5, and after 4 days is now back to normal. That can sometimes happen the 2nd or 3rd week of flower. No root problems and no deficiencies. The chemistry of the plant changes a little durring flower and has to balance out.
 
str8smokn

str8smokn

8,036
313
I'm not in DWC . but it sounds like you can understand your plants,and like your on top of it all.
If you have a good feed schedule,post it up.
STR8
 
Midwestjay

Midwestjay

3,355
263
I use Mills now and love it. But have had excellent results with the Luca formula, also great results with just floranova bloom start to finish all in dwc and with autos. You can say all you want but I've seen it perform first hand. I've never been locked into any particular brand but 13 bottles is for the birds bro.... No way in hell I'd try to run all that. Your base nutes should cover the plants needs with a single booster here and there. (KISS) if you run into issues running 13 products being a newb.... Good luck on dialing that in. With all that said, run what works for you, just don't buy into the hype of all these boosters. I'll put damn near any 2 or 3 part base and a pk booster in flower against any 10+ product line. I've ran GH 3 part, nova bloom, advanced 3part, advanced connoisseur, and now mills. They all perform similarly, I'm actually liking the mills the best so far. And their booster line consists of 3 boosters. Root, sweetener, and pk, not trying to shove a million bottles down your throat.
 
  • Like
Reactions: A 1
C

CannaBlaster

46
8
I use Mills now and love it. But have had excellent results with the Luca formula, also great results with just floranova bloom start to finish all in dwc and with autos. You can say all you want but I've seen it perform first hand. I've never been locked into any particular brand but 13 bottles is for the birds bro.... No way in hell I'd try to run all that. Your base nutes should cover the plants needs with a single booster here and there. (KISS) if you run into issues running 13 products being a newb.... Good luck on dialing that in. With all that said, run what works for you, just don't buy into the hype of all these boosters. I'll put damn near any 2 or 3 part base and a pk booster in flower against any 10+ product line. I've ran GH 3 part, nova bloom, advanced 3part, advanced connoisseur, and now mills. They all perform similarly, I'm actually liking the mills the best so far. And their booster line consists of 3 boosters. Root, sweetener, and pk, not trying to shove a million bottles down your throat.
Its not that thier trying to shove anything down anyones throat or trying to rob people, its simply because NO ONE can put that many minerals in a handful of bottles and keep it stable. Sillicon alone require a high ph to keep it stable long term. Every mineral in every bottle gh produces plants use in nature. Do you NEED them? No but plants will NEVER be full potential without them. They will be lacking somewhere in some way. I dont understand why people are affraid of these products, they are simple to use and mixed and used properly they stay stable. You can grow with any 2 part you want but I promise you if you use all the other products on another plant properly you WILL see exponential difference in yield, taste, health, potency, and aroma. Another thing people dont do with GH is flush between every nute change. It takes 10 minutes! People dont use things properly and wonder why they have lockouts and problems. Using the full line is no harder than using 2 bottles. AN is over priced water. Look at it, smell it, and compare it. One example is AN's Rhino Skin Sillica, look at the label. Its 0.01% sillica as GH's SI is 10%. Think about that, 0.01%! And it costs 3-4 times more because of a fancy bottle and fancy label. GH was the first and still the leader in Hydro nutes. 90% of DWC growers use GH products in some form and for good reason. People are either lazy or they are over whelmed and affraid to use that many products and I just dont get it. If this plant im growing now doesnt pull 2lbs it will atleast bring 1.5lb. Im week two of flower and I have 16 cola's all 15" long. I want to see that from ANY 2 or 3 part. Never happen. Oh, not only is AN cost 3 times as much but you have to use 3 times the amount to compare to small amounts of GH. People can say GH is the mosy basic brand all they want, but the proof is in the sales and the end product. GH are advanced nutes for advanced feeding. It doesnt make sense to grow DWC and use 2 products, DWC is supposed to be advanced feeding, thats the whole purpose. Unmatched results.
 
cachimbo

cachimbo

9
3
ok guys I am back with the first installment of this thread and seeing as you want the best out of yours Tnelz I will start with a quick explanation of the lifecycle of auto flowering plants and then move on to the best growing methods.

LIFECYCLE OF AN AUTO

A common question I see is when to switch autos from veg to bloom. Many people are under the impression that as soon as they see the first flowers it's time to switch. Perhaps a little explanation of the life cycle of autos will help to clarify this.

Weeks 1 - 3. Once you've started your seeds and they break the surface of the soil, they are in their seedling stage. The first set of leaves to appear will usually single fingered, followed by a second set that may still be single fingered or perhaps 3 fingered. Once that second set appears growth will start to accelerate as the new leaves provide more photosynthesis. This process will continue, more new leaves, faster growth. Depending on the type of soil in use, mild vegetative nutes can be introduced at week 2. By week 3 most plants will start to show their sex. Males will start to produce pollen sacks and females will display pistils.

Weeks 4 - 6. The plants are now entering a pre flowering stage. During this time the plants should exhibit explosive growth, often as much as a new set of nodes and 1" vertical growth a day. This is the time when they will gain most of their vertical height. Many people make the mistake of switching from vegetative to flowering nutrients at this point, assuming that since they see flowers it must be the proper time. This is incorrect. If the switch to flowering nutes is made at this time the vertical growth will stop and the plant will put it's energy into producing buds. If you need to keep your plants small, or want them to finish earlier, they by all means switch nutes at this point. But if you want to get the most out of your plants continue feeding vegetative nutes until you see the vertical growth slow and stop. Depending on the strain that will usually be sometime during week 5 or 6.

Weeks 7 - 9. By now vertical growth has stopped and the switch to flowering nutrients has been made. The buds will start to fill out and put on weight, becoming hard and tight. Pistols will start to change from white to brown, orange, red, etc. By now the plants will also have developed a strong smell. Toward the end of this phase the large primary and smaller secondary fan leaves will begin to turn yellow. This is an indication that the plant is moving toward the end of it's life.

Weeks 10 - 11. At this time flowering nutes should be discontinued and only plain pHed water fed to flush the remaining nutrients from the soil and improve the taste. Yellowing of the fan leaves will continue as the plant draws the stored energy from them. Eventually they will die and fall off. By the time that the smaller leaves that come from out of the buds will also start to turn yellow. Then it's time to harvest.

I know that many of you are thinking that the seed bank said the plants will finish in 8-9 weeks, so why are you saying they take 10-11? The claims made by the seed banks are somewhat deceptive. If you switch to flowering nutes at week 3 or 4 the plants can finish in the times the seed banks say but they will remain small and not reach their full potential yield. Years of growing by myself and others has shown that autos do best if you follow this time line.

Of course, there will always be variations depending on the strain, the environment, nutrients, etc. This information is meant to only serve as a general guideline.
Excelente
 
cachimbo

cachimbo

9
3
Greetings Egzoset
First let me say that male autos will grow at the same rate as females if not quicker.

So the simple answer to your question comes in two parts:

1. for making regular seed using males - I would advise you to start your mother plants and your father plants at the same time, just as nature would. Pollen will start to fall in time to give you a good amount of seed

2. for making fem seed using only females - you will want to start the plant you are going to use as the father two to three weeks before you start the mother plant. the reason for this is that to make feminised seed you will be giving a female plant a sex change and that takes time so the time line I would use is below.
Q ¿using feminized seeds as pollen plant, yes??
week 1 - plant father plant (female to be reversed)

week 2 - maintain father plant

week 3 - plant mother plants (ones that will carry seed)
The father plant should be showing pistils now as soon as it does begin spraying daily with colloidal silver
Please discuss this as 1) how to prep the spray mix 2)best source of purchased colloidal silver and dilution rate and carrier HBO rainwater???? Later how to make it.... pf
week 4 - grow mother plants as normal
continue spraying father with colloidal silver

week 5 - grow mother plants as normal
Male pollen sacks should now be visible on the father plant, when they are stop sraying with colloidal silver and grow as
normal
week 6 - grow as normal

week 7 - pollen should now be falling from the father plant, allow this to pollinate the chosen mothers, and store some pollen for
future use, then discard the father plant. ok. Does One bag or tape the pollen sacs prior to opening??
Q is pollen applied to the madres with brush or just how??
Seeds will take around 6 weeks to become fully mature
(to store pollen use a little plastic vial and rice grains to absorb moisture, ensuring all leaf material is removed then it will
last for about 6 months if stored in the fridge)
week 8 - 12 grow as normal

week 13 - harvest lots of feminised seed for future use
now we talking!!

If you need a hand with any other aspects of breeding give me a shout and I will see if I can help you
Serafìm I am experienced (36 yrs) tropical flowers but a Novato in Ganja...
thus all the questions
 
cachimbo

cachimbo

9
3
Reliable source and recommended brand and % concentrathe of colidial silver pf
 
Newtogrowing

Newtogrowing

2,241
263
ok guys I am back with the first installment of this thread and seeing as you want the best out of yours Tnelz I will start with a quick explanation of the lifecycle of auto flowering plants and then move on to the best growing methods.

LIFECYCLE OF AN AUTO

A common question I see is when to switch autos from veg to bloom. Many people are under the impression that as soon as they see the first flowers it's time to switch. Perhaps a little explanation of the life cycle of autos will help to clarify this.

Weeks 1 - 3. Once you've started your seeds and they break the surface of the soil, they are in their seedling stage. The first set of leaves to appear will usually single fingered, followed by a second set that may still be single fingered or perhaps 3 fingered. Once that second set appears growth will start to accelerate as the new leaves provide more photosynthesis. This process will continue, more new leaves, faster growth. Depending on the type of soil in use, mild vegetative nutes can be introduced at week 2. By week 3 most plants will start to show their sex. Males will start to produce pollen sacks and females will display pistils.

Weeks 4 - 6. The plants are now entering a pre flowering stage. During this time the plants should exhibit explosive growth, often as much as a new set of nodes and 1" vertical growth a day. This is the time when they will gain most of their vertical height. Many people make the mistake of switching from vegetative to flowering nutrients at this point, assuming that since they see flowers it must be the proper time. This is incorrect. If the switch to flowering nutes is made at this time the vertical growth will stop and the plant will put it's energy into producing buds. If you need to keep your plants small, or want them to finish earlier, they by all means switch nutes at this point. But if you want to get the most out of your plants continue feeding vegetative nutes until you see the vertical growth slow and stop. Depending on the strain that will usually be sometime during week 5 or 6.

Weeks 7 - 9. By now vertical growth has stopped and the switch to flowering nutrients has been made. The buds will start to fill out and put on weight, becoming hard and tight. Pistols will start to change from white to brown, orange, red, etc. By now the plants will also have developed a strong smell. Toward the end of this phase the large primary and smaller secondary fan leaves will begin to turn yellow. This is an indication that the plant is moving toward the end of it's life.

Weeks 10 - 11. At this time flowering nutes should be discontinued and only plain pHed water fed to flush the remaining nutrients from the soil and improve the taste. Yellowing of the fan leaves will continue as the plant draws the stored energy from them. Eventually they will die and fall off. By the time that the smaller leaves that come from out of the buds will also start to turn yellow. Then it's time to harvest.

I know that many of you are thinking that the seed bank said the plants will finish in 8-9 weeks, so why are you saying they take 10-11? The claims made by the seed banks are somewhat deceptive. If you switch to flowering nutes at week 3 or 4 the plants can finish in the times the seed banks say but they will remain small and not reach their full potential yield. Years of growing by myself and others has shown that autos do best if you follow this time line.

Of course, there will always be variations depending on the strain, the environment, nutrients, etc. This information is meant to only serve as a general guideline.
Hello there, thanks for the great info!!! I grow only autos and this is a great help. The one thing that I did was like you said when I saw the plant starting to flower I went into bloom mode. Is that why my plants have been staying around 70-80 cm? I just have a closet grow and I only grow 1 plant at a time. I would like to grow 2-3 plants at a time but I would also like to keep the plants small. All the plants that have been grown produced around anywhere from 2-3 oz's. If you have any input for me it will be well recieved. Peace Out...
 
Jay Mills

Jay Mills

1
3
I'm wondering if tropical latitudes would benefit from autoflower strains? Between the tropic of cancer and capricorn the days don't vary much from 12/12. maybe 13 or so in the long season. Most of the input I've seen have come from either indoor or Mediterranean (cali/euro) varied climates.

I wanted to suggest to my Jamaican friend to try out some auto strains, so I'm wondering if the strength of the tropical sun will outweigh the shortness of the day and still yield a bountiful harvest.
 
whitebob

whitebob

945
243
You can add them as suggested.
If it says 5 ml than give it too them. Is it part of the BioBizz line?(start low and work your way up)
Micro shouldn't harm any thing I wouldn't think,just add it to the mix after the 4 th week of growth. Then use it everyother feeding or so stopping around week 7 .
Just my .2
STR8

hi guys i joined up after reading through this entire thread, and wanted to jump in and ask a quick question.. as you seem to be the oracle, I've been growing for a couple of years, autos and regs, but starting to focus more on the autos as i think they great fun to grow. I'm growing a couple of northern lights x big bud at the mo. they look awesome but just want to know what ec values everyone is using throughout there grow.. i understand each strain is different. but any ball park figures would be great... growing in auto pots in coco 60 /40 with gh 3 part. and magne cal. canna rhino and cannazym. 600w hps chilled nutes to 18degrees c. 6inch fan out / 4 inch fan in loft grow...
currently mid flower and I'm running them at between .8 and 1.0. just want to get the most out of them.. any help would be great... sorry for jumping in....
IMG 1516
Mj1
 
str8smokn

str8smokn

8,036
313
hi guys i joined up after reading through this entire thread, and wanted to jump in and ask a quick question.. as you seem to be the oracle, I've been growing for a couple of years, autos and regs, but starting to focus more on the autos as i think they great fun to grow. I'm growing a couple of northern lights x big bud at the mo. they look awesome but just want to know what ec values everyone is using throughout there grow.. i understand each strain is different. but any ball park figures would be great... growing in auto pots in coco 60 /40 with gh 3 part. and magne cal. canna rhino and cannazym. 600w hps chilled nutes to 18degrees c. 6inch fan out / 4 inch fan in loft grow...
currently mid flower and I'm running them at between .8 and 1.0. just want to get the most out of them.. any help would be great... sorry for jumping in....View attachment 615386View attachment 615387

And jump in where ever you can fit in ! Everyone is pretty cool in this place.
STR8
 
Top Bottom