acetone wash and parchment paper

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chronicdreams

chronicdreams

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I am doing an acetone wash, can I line my pyrex with parchment paper as I would BHO? Or would it react with the paper? Prelim soaking of paper does not seem to do much, but I would like some science backing me up once way or another.
 
squiggly

squiggly

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I hate hearing people doing acetone washes.

Such a horrible chemical for this purpose.

If the parchment paper has wax--you'll be adding some of that to your concentrate. If not, you're fine.
 
midwestdensies

midwestdensies

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Parchment contains 0 wax, can be heated to 425 and is environmentally safe.
 
chronicdreams

chronicdreams

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prelim testing seems to leave the paper fine, but I'd love someone with chem background to say A OK. BTW you can get great results with acetone. and readily available.
 
El Cerebro

El Cerebro

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Parchment contains 0 wax, can be heated to 425 and is environmentally safe.
i don't think parchment is a good idea in general, have read extensively about it adding yucky ingredients to the solution. (sorry can't cite anything now though, i read it all a while back then immediately eliminated parchment from my methods)
 
Ohiofarmer

Ohiofarmer

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if your starting with really high quality material to do your acetone wash, your gonna wind up with some flame ass oil; also acetone is slightly polar, so remeber that when choosing your wash time and material... Take it easy
 
squiggly

squiggly

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BTW you can get great results with acetone. and readily available.

Debatable.

It's much too polar to be efficient if you're going for pristine quality--that's first off.

Forgetting that, as some rightly might, acetone is extremely reactive with a myriad of substances. I flat out guarantee you that you are producing new chemicals during an acetone wash. There's way too much floating around in there that will happily react with acetone--and you're using it as a solvent, forget about it.
 
SCFSYNDICATE760

SCFSYNDICATE760

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Debatable.

It's much too polar to be efficient if you're going for pristine quality--that's first off.

Forgetting that, as some rightly might, acetone is extremely reactive with a myriad of substances. I flat out guarantee you that you are producing new chemicals during an acetone wash. There's way too much floating around in there that will happily react with acetone--and you're using it as a solvent, forget about it.

not sure id say debatable...its pretty much garens if u put in fire, no matter what solvent u use, its gonna be fire if u purge it right period...
 
chronicdreams

chronicdreams

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not even remotely debatable. I go through about 3-4 zips of oil a month. I brought my acetone SHATTER to the people I get my BHO from. No one could believe it was not BHO, and agreed it was some of the tastiest, smoothest stuff they ever had. The keys to my wash were freeze everything. the jar, the herb, the acetone. 20-30 sec wash. left in freezer for few days and filtered. I have made 3 acetone batches so far. all 3 I got shatter on run 1. the only time I tried rewashing a 2nd time I got gunk. yield seems better than straight BHO blasted. I have never done a soak with tane, so I could not comment on yield vs butane soak. so please. no debate on the acetone wash itself. it works fantastic. it was a simple question of " will it react with parchment paper." and "please back up with science"
 
squiggly

squiggly

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I'm just telling you what I know from practical every day Ochem and applications thereof.

Acetone is exceptionally reactive, especially in the presence of substituted ring structures--which 90% of your oil is made up of.

I'm not saying it won't get you high, or taste good, or seem comparable to strictly human senses--but there is just virtually no way in hell you're not doing some additional reactions by using acetone, especially with terpenoids.
 
El Cerebro

El Cerebro

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not even remotely debatable. I go through about 3-4 zips of oil a month. I brought my acetone SHATTER to the people I get my BHO from. No one could believe it was not BHO, and agreed it was some of the tastiest, smoothest stuff they ever had. The keys to my wash were freeze everything. the jar, the herb, the acetone. 20-30 sec wash. left in freezer for few days and filtered. I have made 3 acetone batches so far. all 3 I got shatter on run 1. the only time I tried rewashing a 2nd time I got gunk. yield seems better than straight BHO blasted. I have never done a soak with tane, so I could not comment on yield vs butane soak. so please. no debate on the acetone wash itself. it works fantastic. it was a simple question of " will it react with parchment paper." and "please back up with science"
if you want an answer backed by science, why not go do the fucking work yourself and report back what you find - like others of us have done but often grow weary of bothering to share due to inevitable denial and irrational arguments from armchair-contrarians and magical-thinkers.

here's another challenge if you really care about your query at all, and aren't just trolling for an expert response you can shoot down: go find the academic articles i read during my parchment decision process, actually read them, then let us know what you think, and if the evidence isn't persuasive tell us why you hold that opinion.

as indicated above, i won't waste my time digging anything up for you, but will share the hint that it took me less than 15min on the web to consider the evidence and choose against.
 
squiggly

squiggly

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Look man, it can be done--and terpenes are such that the addition of a methoxy group to a ring (which would be one of the favored reactions in my estimation) isn't going to kill you or cause a lot of undue stress.

Terpenes have a structure that keeps them from being too problematic.

Main concern for me here would be some of the weaker cyclic terpenes. Rings closed by an ether linkage for instance.

If you open enough of these up you could get some un-fun results. Probably very slightly harshen the smoke up.


Alright I'll stop there, here's the thing:

Science says that, from a reactivity standpoint, you don't know what you're putting the hell in there and so it stands to reason you want to use the least reactive solvent you can think of.

There are maybe up to 100 different terpenes floating about in a pot plant, if you don't have all these cataloged for each strain and run an assload of tests--there is virtually no way to assure you're not doing some crazy and wildly variable reactions--and that's just for the terpenes.

You know what can assure that pretty well, though? Some hexane, or a short chain alcohol. Or butane even (not my favorite). These are all SIGNIFICANTLY less reactive than ketones (of which acetone is a member).

I realize "reactive" might seem like a "get-out-of-jail-free" word, but what it stands in the place of is a more detailed explanation drawing on my personal experience. Obviously neither of us has the time for me to explain thermo to you, or to go through with words the trial and error that has wrought for me the experience I have.

You can choose to believe me or not. In this scenario, you are as likely running a reaction as you are running an extraction. I DEFINITELY recommend only doing this at VERY LOW temperatures, this may help to attenuate (although not remove) some of this interaction I'm worried about--if you're stuck on the acetone.
 
chronicdreams

chronicdreams

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if you want an answer backed by science, why not go do the fucking work yourself and report back what you find - like others of us have done but often grow weary of bothering to share due to inevitable denial and irrational arguments from armchair-contrarians and magical-thinkers.

here's another challenge if you really care about your query at all, and aren't just trolling for an expert response you can shoot down: go find the academic articles i read during my parchment decision process, actually read them, then let us know what you think, and if the evidence isn't persuasive tell us why you hold that opinion.

as indicated above, i won't waste my time digging anything up for you, but will share the hint that it took me less than 15min on the web to consider the evidence and choose against.
umm if you have nothing positive to contribute, fuck off my thread and boost your post count somewhere else. I did not deny any answers you nitwit as no one answered my question.

squiggy: yes. I like the acetone. period. Blame the meth users for making the best chemicals hard to get. again the only question. which NO ONE WAS ABLE TO ANSWER or back up was : does it react with parchment paper. answer: does not seem to. soaked just paper for hours and still seems fine.
 
chronicdreams

chronicdreams

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again squiggly, thank you for input. the reason I ask for science to back things up is too many people confuse post count with fucking actual knowledge. As you can see from a few responces on here. So I look for answers that can site sources. I understand acetone not the best. but it works. especially very cold. hexane is hard for me to find. and expensive. I can get 99 iso, but did not like the results I got the one time I used it. There could be a learning curve there though. I would like some ethanol. same thing. hard to get and expensive. dont wish to order things online and have some fed showing up at my door looking for meth labs . any other readily available options you recommend?
 
squiggly

squiggly

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again squiggly, thank you for input. the reason I ask for science to back things up is too many people confuse post count with fucking actual knowledge. As you can see from a few responces on here. So I look for answers that can site sources. I understand acetone not the best. but it works. especially very cold. hexane is hard for me to find. and expensive. I can get 99 iso, but did not like the results I got the one time I used it. There could be a learning curve there though. I would like some ethanol. same thing. hard to get and expensive. dont wish to order things online and have some fed showing up at my door looking for meth labs . any other readily available options you recommend?

I'd recommend the thermos method with butane (or a dewar flask in place of a thermos for a large run). Throw some butane in the freezer, blow it into the flask/thermos (low hazard as at this temp most of the butane will be liquid--you could literally cut the can open without insane amounts of danger)--and add your material. It takes a good long soak at this temperature. You will need some way to add heat to evaporate it all off if you're working with a decent volume--because evaporative cooling will all but freeze your receptacle.

Hexane, as it happens, is also perfectly legal to buy and not all that suspicious. It's not on any "must report" lists. All you need is a legitimate reason to use it, and that could well be "personal extraction of essential oils."

Where most people trip themselves up in this process is that they go too far, thinking they need credentials or scientific know how to order the stuff--they end up coming off as someone impersonating a scientist and that is the red flag. The solvents themselves are essentially unregulated.

The ISO will work as well, I'd just recommend freezing it first as with the butane for better results--and employing a long soak.

When I use this method I do two soaks, 1 for 20 minutes--and a second for 45. Both runs come out amber/shatter.

The leftover material goes back into the freezer until I get enough to make butter with--there is still plenty of material left after the two soaks (the low temperature greatly slows extraction and all but excludes water).

I get it that acetone works, it's just not ideal is all. You can do better--I think you're making a mountain out of a mole hill here. Understanding a bit more about the kinetics/principles of the extraction might clue you in on places where you can modulate what you're doing to get better results--regardless of solvent used.

If you had a bad run with the ISO, maybe there was something you could've done better?

You're far from backed into a corner here, as it regards acetone. You are by far the outlier here. I don't really have a problem with outliers--the best thinkers always differ from others--but in this case it goes beyond fanboi-ism for me, this just legitimately concerns me.

The reactivity of the solvent is too great, and you don't know what chemical products you're forming (and you are forming some). You're guinea pigging yourself. I don't think it's particularly dire just based on what type of reactions I'd predict---but I can't be sure of that. This stuff is a chemical soup, thats why it's best to keep it in neutral--non-reactive--conditions.
 
chronicdreams

chronicdreams

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Don't get me wrong. I am not STUCK on acetone. I could give a shit what I use, providing that it is safe, effective, and cost efficient. I have done small batches of blasted butane with plenty of success. never had tried a thermos, or similar technique. Here is the thing. Been a gardener for a long time in the 4-10 light range. Last few years I have also been handling the outdoor garden for a collective. I have been experimenting with alternate methods for extraction to blasting butane. Without recycling it, I think it a dangerous method on a large scale. That's lots of gas waiting for a spark, and very costly. I originally came to this site based on gray wolf's butane reclaim designs. Long term that is something I may go with. Let's see, what did I do wrong with the ISO? Lots. Curious though, Gray calls for a very quick soak ( seconds ) with iso. you call for long soak? So with safety, quality, cost, and ease of use ( with priorities in that order lol ) what would you recommend for dealing with multiple lbs a week, and with LARGE volumes during fall? Do you have a site that you like for ordering any glass or chemicals that I would need? It seems every site I go to glass and or chemicals are retard expensive. I don't know if I am just a shitty online shopper or if shit is really that fucking expensive. If so, I sure don't want to be ordering the wrong shit. Sorry about the run ons. I am dabbing and gardening and giving up pit bull belly rubs same time.
 
Graywolf

Graywolf

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I don't like to use solvents that have been identified as a carcinogen, mutagen, or teratogen, even at trace amounts. That is why I don't use Acetone and prefer to stick to simple alkanes or simple alkane alcohols if given a choice.

We purchase our HPLC grade chemicals at American Scientific, a school supply house. HPLC grade solvents are very expensive, as compared to the hardware store, so you might also consider reclaiming them for reuse.

The cheapest way we found to process large volumes, is a Terpenator at 3.8 cents per gram and 600 grams processed per hour, but the next cheapest was denatured alcohol in vat, using a 10" restaurant size tea ball to dip the material. We use that for stem and fan leaf extraction and it costs about $5/gallon in 50 gallon drums.
 
Tea ball extraction of stems in Denatured alcohol 1 1
squiggly

squiggly

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I don't like to use solvents that have been identified as a carcinogen, mutagen, or teratogen, even at trace amounts. That is why I don't use Acetone and prefer to stick to simple alkanes or simple alkane alcohols if given a choice.

Precisely.

I just want people to understand slightly the reactivity of acetone for a second as well, so bear with me quickly here:


This is an image of acetone


th



You'll notice a few things:

1. It is a symmetrical molecule.

2. Each side of the ketone (C==O) bears a methyl group (CH3)

3. The central carbon makes a double bond (or a pi bond) with oxygen,


I want you to understand the following:

This molecule is not to scale, and there is much that the eye doesn't see which this molecule does in reality.

The CH3 groups are actually HUGE groups. So big that they will actually bump each other from either side of the molecule. They are also spinning around like helicopter blades at all times. Both of these effects together put strain on the "bent" bond which is centralized on the carbonyl carbon (C==O). This increases thermodynamic favorability of a reaction which will relieve that strain.

It's also worth mentioning three things about the carbonyl itself:

1. The central carbon is neither fully reduced nor fully oxidized and this increases its reactivity in either direction (its in the dead center of oxidation states so it can go either way really).

2. The oxygen draws electron density away from the central carbon, and through induction also pulls from each CH3 group--this further weakens the bond.

3. The pull of electron density also polarizes the carbonyl--such that the carbon has a delta positive charge and the oxygen has a delta negative charge. This GREATLY increases reactivity of this molecule when combined with the incomplete oxidation/reduction of the central carbon.



If you wanted to design a more reactive molecule, you'd have a hard time doing it without actually producing a carbanion or carbocation--which is extremely difficult and they are so reactive that they blink out of existence almost as soon as they are created.

The most common reaction we expect from acetone is an addition to the central carbon from an angle of attack opposite the carbonyl oxygen.


Like this reaction:

400px-Hydration_reaction_of_acetone.PNG



This scheme is written somewhat poorly but allow me to walk you through it.


The central oxygen molecule of water (negative charge) attacks the central carbon of acetone (positive charge). This breaks the double bond of the ketone.

When the central oxygen atom of water has made 3 complete bonds (oxygen only likes to make 2) it carries a positive charge. Oxygen is EXTREMELY electronegative and does not want to hold this positive charge, it relieves the chemical potential by losing a proton (hydrogen) which is also positively charged.

In a similar but reverse situation, when the ketone oxygen loses its second bond it goes from a partial negative charge to a complete negative charge (because it likes to make 2 bonds and it only has 1 now).

This oxygen will abstract a proton from solution (and often it will just immediately grab the one the water molecule lost)--which ends you up with two alcohol groups (OH) jutting off the central carbon as well as the two original methyl groups.

Let's look at this new molecule.

It's central carbon is unstrained--the bond angles around it are all equally spaced (109.5 degrees, in a tetrahedral configuration) give or take a few fractions of an angstrom. So the steric strain has been alleviated.

Let's look at the central carbon atom--now it has been further oxidized, and so some of the strain which pulls from the central oxidation state has also been relieved.


This fits in with what we expect. Reactions are *mostly* dependent on thermodynamic availability. This means that things naturally follow a trend of more reactive molecules ---------------> less reactive molecules.

Saying something is more reactive is the same as saying that it is less stable, under thermodynamic conditions (standard temp/pressure)--the most stable molecule will always result.

An example:

th



On the reactants side the rightmost molecule (the aldehyde, ketone with a single hydrogen attached to carbonyl carbon) is subject to attack from the molecule on the left--much as in the acetone + water reaction above.

You'll notice that in one product (syn) the OH (alcohol) has a solid line and so does the CH3 group attached to the *new* central carbon. this means that they both "face" the same way. In the anti product the OH has a dotted line and the CH3 group still has a solid one--this means they point in opposite directions.

In this case, the anti product is favored--because the steric strain is lower when the constituents point in opposite directions versus pointing at each other. Thermodynamically speaking, the anti product is more stable (and for most reactions the anti product is always the more stable one for exactly the same reason).

Reactions can also be done under kinetic conditions, but by and large anything we'll do with canna chemistry will be concerned with thermo.


You can choose to believe me or not, but I promise you I'm not blowing smoke up your ass. I know what the fuck I'm talking about. Not only do I do this for a living, but it is my absolute joy to do so. I love this stuff, and have spent A LOT of time with it.

This is a reactive molecule--I mean you've now seen what it does with water (which I GUARANTEE is in your extract material). So there goes at least one molecule you didn't have before that you create during your extraction, if it does this with water and you have in your extract mixture molecules which are THOUSANDS OF TIMES MORE REACTIVE (and you do) you can be guaranteed that you will be performing a myriad of side-reactions during this extraction. The products from those side reactions may then go on to do other reactions and so on and so forth. In the end you will have absolutely no idea what you're smoking.


I really just want to run an acetone extraction, run a BHO--and then take the results in to the NMR, so that I can convince you that acetone reactions are producing a shitload of new products. Unfortunately I cannot do this for fear of jail--but I hope that my expertise will be enough for you, that's the best I can do.

One last question:

How's the geminal-diol smoking?

:)


As a final plea--please understand that there is a reason chemistry labs the world over use acetone to clean their glass. It not only works well as a solvent--but reacts with anything left over in a vessel changing its state to something which can be washed out.

I have seen with my own eyes acetone destroy and eat away at a compound which concentrated sulfuric acid couldn't touch or clean away.

Please understand that from a chemistry perspective this is a big deal. Sulfuric acid destroys EVERYTHING.

Usually when cleaning lab glass I'll start with ethanol, graduate to soap and water, and if all else fails I'll bring the acetone in. Sometimes I've got to use a strong acid or base for certain molecules which only respond to these treatments--but for the most part acetone will knock it the fuck out, no matter what it is.

This might not be an absolute recipe for disaster--but it's certainly a recipe for something other than only pristine grade AAA cannabis extract.

Thing is, dude, I don't even have to get very advanced to understand that what I'm telling you is the truth. This is year one organic chemistry. This is like the first 4 weeks of material in any chemistry major. I'm about 7 years removed from that at this point--and easily like 4000 hours in the lab. It's also worth mentioning that in all of the myriad of chemistry specializations--this analysis falls squarely into my wheelhouse. I am concerned highly with predictive chemical reactivity in organic reactions.

I am an organic chemist who works mostly on catalysis--which requires an extensive knowledge of and ability to predict reactivity. That's essentially all I do, in fact.

If you won't take it from me, you won't take it from anyone else here--so I figured I had to try.
 
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