Ive been waiting for someone to mfgr a ac hood plate glass in low iron glass like they do for reef tanks. Low iron glass allows more of the needed uv and par to hit the plants while staying with a ac hood. Far as I know the only low iron glass used in horticulture is solistek uses it in it s 10,000 k MH finishing bulb.
I actually learned a lot looking into all this too:) I won't lie I'm kind of a nerd,I love this shit haha.Here is the description of the bulb. It says low iron or (low e) glass.
I was mistaken when I said lead. I meant iron.
But I do not know much about glass. I have now read your links.
Have not found it in my reflector. I am wrong about the glass there.
i should not have posted so hastily.
I actually learned a lot looking into all this too:) I won't lie I'm kind of a nerd,I love this shit haha.
Those finishing solistek 10k lamps are killer. Ive finished last two weeks with one on my orange cookie that normally takes 10-11 weeks and it looked done at 9 weeks. More purple, more frosty, more greasy to boot only drawback is it burned out on me after about 3 months worth of use( I tried using it for veg). I've tried a 20k coral mh too with good results but I think it's almost too much UV it fries leaves if you're not careful. Those hort blues you have make great finishing bulbs too churning out some decent UV and they have an even higher CRI than cmh at 95. Only trouble is they're so expensive and Hortilux says to change em out at 6 months! Yet another big advantage to the cmh much much longer bulb life.
The cmh bulbs are easier to cool than HPS because there's a lower percentage of infrared light in the spectrum, which is also why they're more efficient. Infrared is useful for plant processes but the balance of infrared to other usable wavelengths is way off what plants evolved to use. So your plants will actually use a higher percentage of the energy you're throwing at them rather than a good portion of that energy simply heating your room as with HPS. All the light energy your plant doesn't use regardless of spectrum will ultimately get converted into heat. That's why the spectrum balance is so important for efficiency because you want it to use everything you throw at it.....
Found this http://images.philips.com/is/conten..._AA-Philips_LED_Toplighting_2015Nov_FINAL.pdf.
on Philips site it compares their LEDs to DE HPS scroll down it shows the energy output breakdown. Interesting to note the TOTAL heat per watt isn't too much more with HPS. I'm trying to find one comparing Cmh to HPS....
I bet that low iron glass is expensive.....
Actinic lights have been used for a while now... its good stuff and sometime more affordable than replacing ballasts and buying expensive 100 dollar blue bulbsI actually learned a lot looking into all this too:) I won't lie I'm kind of a nerd,I love this shit haha.
Those finishing solistek 10k lamps are killer. Ive finished last two weeks with one on my orange cookie that normally takes 10-11 weeks and it looked done at 9 weeks. More purple, more frosty, more greasy to boot only drawback is it burned out on me after about 3 months worth of use( I tried using it for veg). I've tried a 20k coral mh too with good results but I think it's almost too much UV it fries leaves if you're not careful. Those hort blues you have make great finishing bulbs too churning out some decent UV and they have an even higher CRI than cmh at 95. Only trouble is they're so expensive and Hortilux says to change em out at 6 months! Yet another big advantage to the cmh much much longer bulb life.
The cmh bulbs are easier to cool than HPS because there's a lower percentage of infrared light in the spectrum, which is also why they're more efficient. Infrared is useful for plant processes but the balance of infrared to other usable wavelengths is way off what plants evolved to use. So your plants will actually use a higher percentage of the energy you're throwing at them rather than a good portion of that energy simply heating your room as with HPS. All the light energy your plant doesn't use regardless of spectrum will ultimately get converted into heat. That's why the spectrum balance is so important for efficiency because you want it to use everything you throw at it.....
Found this http://images.philips.com/is/conten..._AA-Philips_LED_Toplighting_2015Nov_FINAL.pdf.
on Philips site it compares their LEDs to DE HPS scroll down it shows the energy output breakdown. Interesting to note the TOTAL heat per watt isn't too much more with HPS. I'm trying to find one comparing Cmh to HPS....
I bet that low iron glass is expensive.....
man all of this is good stuff
Got my bulbs and ballast today.I scrapped the hoods and just went and got a couple of wing reflectors on a hope and a prayer.Man these lights are sweet as hell.They blow my 600W HID out of the water.they make my 600W look like a 400 watt no joke.
No need to air cool whatsoever.they are about as warm as the 8 bulb t5 i had in there before these.Now i will say there are certain hot spots up top close to the bulbs but thats it.I really like the clarity and spectrum of these bulbs and without touching the AC the thermometer on the wall is 1 degree lower now than when i had the T5.Im going to get rid of the 8 inch raptor in there where i have the 600W HPS/HID and go with 2 more of these.The guy at the hydro shop is all about growing tai basil.He had 2 under one 315 and said he has never had growth indoors the way he did with the 315.these plants are 10 days old today so im gonna see how this turns out.
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I cannot believe there isnt more info on these bulbs and lights.Its crazy to me that there arent that many availble ballast or hoods or bulbs for them.
yeah man and the heat is not that bad at all.I could see if someone did not have ac them being an issue but my AC works less as hard with these.I have a 1000 in the back air colled thats putting off way more heat than these in a cooled hood
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