J
Justinb19
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- Aug 6, 2019
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Im using 10 watt great value brand led with the plastuc globes removed and i am seeing huge improvementsIs it powerful enough for flowering? Some plain floresent bulbs are sufficient for growing in the vegetative state, but it'll grow slower than it would with high watt LED systems or high pressure sodium or metal halide set-ups. If you can use it for both veg. & flower that'd by a nice set-up.
Is it powerful enough for flowering?
You have some nice light ideas fo not a lot of money, since I have a tent to clamp things on I find that the clamps don’t hold onto my skinny tent frame.and ideas on that. I have 2 300 leds and then two tube grow led lights, a foot long each, on the sides of my plants and I have a 2x4 grow space.i have started also leaving the tent open because of heat of those leds...doesn’t feel hot but temp up to 86 f..so rock on with your ideas..andI think it's fun stuff. Those floodlamp holders will thread into PVC fittings that have 1/2" pipe thread. For example, "T" fittings commonly have a 1/2" threaded "outlet" (the side outlet). You could create a pole with one of those floodlamp holders every 4". (You don't have to glue the PVC together. Just cut a slot in the end of the pipe so it will collapse as it goes into the fitting. Then use a sheet metal screw to "pin" the pieces together. I.e., it's not something you have to make perfect and commit to, or throw it all away.).
You could make a square "fixture" to hang from the ceiling. They're not as easily to find (you might have to buy from an online pvc fitting place), but there is a 90-degree elbow fitting with a 1/2" pipe thread "side outlet". Use T's between the corners too.
You can get some other ideas here. (<<link). The 2nd and 3rd articles would be the ones to see.
What I like about the phoenelic sockets (the ones that come with clamp-on reflectors) is that they're threaded on the socket end. A reflector can be used. That's a big deal with omnidirectional lights. But, with LED lightbulbs having that "base" at the bottom, with LED chips flush mounted, pointing in the same direction, a reflector won't do much.
There seems to be a trend for LED lightbulbs to have a plastic or glass "bulb" like the old incandescents (going down to the male thread; no "base" going halfway up). The LEDs are hung in the center of the round part like a "filament." That's a step backwards for growing. If that proves to be the new normal for lightbulbs, then the PAR38, 30, 20 (BR30, etc.) floodlights will be the thing to use. Their LEDs are flush mounted. And, they come with a reflector. You just have to cut/pry off the outer lens. And then, there's an inner lens covering the diodes:
You definitely want the LEDs mounted like that. That's the real strength of household LED lightbulbs. That directionality out of the box is a very big deal (compared to reflecting omni light, like a CFL or the new LED lightbulbs).
That one had no inner lens. (It's part of the outer lens.). This is an example showing the lens over the LED:
I just started looking at these recently. Cree makes one. The lens looks like it clips into slots in the side of the reflector. I haven't gotten into it yet. I want to experiment using it as a concentrated flood light
That outer lens pried off (I didn't have to cut it off). I drilled holes around the outer edge hoping that might make the focused light less focused/concentrated. But, not so broad as no lenses at all. I think no lenses would be better because they cause some absorption loss. Having nothing between the light and plant should be more efficient, more light reaching the plant. But, I used to use the original glass Cree LED floodlight and had good results. So, I want to give this one a shot. I think using something like this as top lighting (penetrating into the plant) and the unfocused (lenseless) light around the sides. Even if there is some loss due to the lenses, it would be easier to manage the lights (mounting, aiming fewer of them. It's a tradeoff that way. If you'e managing a dozen lightbulbs, that can be tedious. You might not mind some lens loss for the sake of simplicity.).
Anyway, my point was: if LED lightbulbs go retro back to "flimanets" (made of LEDs), then these flood lights be the only choice (from the local hardware store. I'm sure there are other E27 grow-light "bulb" choices. I saw @BigCube using something with an E27 screw base and LEDs flush mounted so they point 90 degrees straight to the plant.). If that happened, the phoenelic sockets (that come with the clamp-on reflector) won't be as desirable (for the option using a reflector) because these flood lights already come with them. The only downside if things go this way is that the bulbs cost more (with the built-in reflector). LEDs have lumen deprecation. The bulbs should probably be replaced after 2000 hours. Particularly lights used in flower. Veg doesn't matter as much. Rotate the flower lights to veg.
I wouldn't discount using these in flower either. Even as sidelight to a "real" grow light, they make a difference. I've used them to flower at 18-22w/sq ft with good results. (<<link). It would have been better at 30w/sq ft. That's still low compared to how many LED grow-light fixtures are used (50w/sq ft). But, using them to sidelight a traditional fixture would make a big difference. I think the value is getting light *close* to the plant for less inverse-square loss. Adding 40w around the side of a plant (four 10w 60w-equiv bulbs) would be like adding 80w to the top light. I might be exagerating. But, it's much better than adding light to the top. It makes better use of the watts.
I have a tent to clamp things on I find that the clamps don’t hold onto my skinny tent frame.and ideas on that
. I have 2 300 leds and then two tube grow led lights, a foot long each, on the sides of my plants and I have a 2x4 grow space.i have started also leaving the tent open because of heat of those leds...doesn’t feel hot but temp up to 86 f..so rock on with your ideas..and
They are maxisun 300wt led dimmable with bloom veg with it...so not sure what actual watts.. I have bought so many ....meters....to measure everything else just not light .i think one guy told me it was 39 watts per square feet on just the 300 w ones..yeah it amazon bought. Lights ..I will go look at hardware for different clamps ,just have to look beyond tent.....non tent clamp,ready like amazon sales. Lol..thx a bunch.Here's an example of how you can mount anything to your tent legs. This is the first tent-leg mount I. I had a couple clamp-on desk fans. They bolted onto the spring clamp. I made this platform for them to mount on:
View attachment 888805
View attachment 888806
That's just 1x4" wood. Two wood screws joining them together (through the bottom). And steel corner/angle braces on each side.
It connects to the tent leg using two 1-inch "muffler clamps." I replaced the hex nuts with wing nuts for easier use.
I slipped clear vinyl tube over the muffler clamp so it wouldn't crush/mar the tent leg. I think it's 1/4" inside-diameter tube. Ace Hardware usually has a large selection of clamps and vinyl tube.
Are those 300 actual watts? In a 2x4 grow space you'd need 320w (40w/sq ft) of T5HO. That probably holds true for run-of-the-mill, Amazon-sold LED grow-light fixtures. With better LED, or distributing the watts around the plant, 30w/sq ft (240w total) should be good. (If you really work at putting the lights around the plants, many low-watt sources up close for less inverse-square loss, you should be able to do 20w/sq ft, 160w total.).
They are maxisun 300wt led dimmable
I was thinking the r going ok but still kind of smallSo much better man good advice @az2000 and good job @Justinb19
Yeah thats true and i figure i probaly still have a couple weeks to go so they may double upStill way better than what u would have yeilded bro
Yeah thats true and i figure i probaly still have a couple weeks to go so they may double up
Time to upgrade to a scope. Digital WiFi scopes are like 40$Here r some trichome pics not the best but hard to take
man with me just moving to a new area when you a few, I have some ?? for you but not on this guys postAlso, HPS would be a good choice in your climate. It's cheaper to get into than CMH. Hotter. I think people typically run those 50-60w sq ft. CMH is 35w/sq ft. (Neither of these numbers include the ballast. And, I sidelight CMH, as I would anything.). The heat of HPS could be valuable in your winter. Like I said, cheap to get into.
But, if you think you'll grow shorter plants (4' to 5' tall space), T5HO would be better (40w/sq ft.).
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