Ak47 4 weeks flower help plz

[Justinb19]

Is it powerful enough for flowering? Some plain floresent bulbs are sufficient for growing in the vegetative state, but it'll grow slower than it would with high watt LED systems or high pressure sodium or metal halide set-ups. If you can use it for both veg. & flower that'd by a nice set-up.

Im using 10 watt great value brand led with the plastuc globes removed and i am seeing huge improvements

 

[az2000]

Is it powerful enough for flowering?

I flowered under household LED lightbulbs a few years ago. (<<link). The trick is to be able to position the lights all around the plant. 3-in-1 fixtures make it easier to hang lights, but less flexible to put the light where it belongs. It's a balance between ease of use versus tailoring the light to the plant. (I like the Amazon fixtures I showed pictures of because they allow rotating/aiming the bulbs. That would be a huge benefit compared to 3 rigid-mounted bulbs. ).

There may be differences in bulbs too. (I.e., maybe not all 2700k bulbs produce the same spectrum. I'm noticing that right now with two seedlings under 8-9w 5000K bulbs. (<<link) The seedlings seem to lean toward the Philips (sold at Home Depot), preferring it over the GE "basic" (sold at Lowes). Back when I grew the plant (veg to harvest) using lightbulbs, there was a clear high-end and low-end lightbulb. It's not that clear today.

 

[Rikismom420]

I think it's fun stuff. Those floodlamp holders will thread into PVC fittings that have 1/2" pipe thread. For example, "T" fittings commonly have a 1/2" threaded "outlet" (the side outlet). You could create a pole with one of those floodlamp holders every 4". (You don't have to glue the PVC together. Just cut a slot in the end of the pipe so it will collapse as it goes into the fitting. Then use a sheet metal screw to "pin" the pieces together. I.e., it's not something you have to make perfect and commit to, or throw it all away.).

You could make a square "fixture" to hang from the ceiling. They're not as easily to find (you might have to buy from an online pvc fitting place), but there is a 90-degree elbow fitting with a 1/2" pipe thread "side outlet". Use T's between the corners too.

You can get some other ideas here. (<<link). The 2nd and 3rd articles would be the ones to see.

What I like about the phoenelic sockets (the ones that come with clamp-on reflectors) is that they're threaded on the socket end. A reflector can be used. That's a big deal with omnidirectional lights. But, with LED lightbulbs having that "base" at the bottom, with LED chips flush mounted, pointing in the same direction, a reflector won't do much.

There seems to be a trend for LED lightbulbs to have a plastic or glass "bulb" like the old incandescents (going down to the male thread; no "base" going halfway up). The LEDs are hung in the center of the round part like a "filament." That's a step backwards for growing. If that proves to be the new normal for lightbulbs, then the PAR38, 30, 20 (BR30, etc.) floodlights will be the thing to use. Their LEDs are flush mounted. And, they come with a reflector. You just have to cut/pry off the outer lens. And then, there's an inner lens covering the diodes:

View attachment 887076​

You definitely want the LEDs mounted like that. That's the real strength of household LED lightbulbs. That directionality out of the box is a very big deal (compared to reflecting omni light, like a CFL or the new LED lightbulbs).

That one had no inner lens. (It's part of the outer lens.). This is an example showing the lens over the LED:

View attachment 887081​

I just started looking at these recently. Cree makes one. The lens looks like it clips into slots in the side of the reflector. I haven't gotten into it yet. I want to experiment using it as a concentrated flood light

View attachment 887083​

That outer lens pried off (I didn't have to cut it off). I drilled holes around the outer edge hoping that might make the focused light less focused/concentrated. But, not so broad as no lenses at all. I think no lenses would be better because they cause some absorption loss. Having nothing between the light and plant should be more efficient, more light reaching the plant. But, I used to use the original glass Cree LED floodlight and had good results. So, I want to give this one a shot. I think using something like this as top lighting (penetrating into the plant) and the unfocused (lenseless) light around the sides. Even if there is some loss due to the lenses, it would be easier to manage the lights (mounting, aiming fewer of them. It's a tradeoff that way. If you'e managing a dozen lightbulbs, that can be tedious. You might not mind some lens loss for the sake of simplicity.).

Anyway, my point was: if LED lightbulbs go retro back to "flimanets" (made of LEDs), then these flood lights be the only choice (from the local hardware store. I'm sure there are other E27 grow-light "bulb" choices. I saw @BigCube using something with an E27 screw base and LEDs flush mounted so they point 90 degrees straight to the plant.). If that happened, the phoenelic sockets (that come with the clamp-on reflector) won't be as desirable (for the option using a reflector) because these flood lights already come with them. The only downside if things go this way is that the bulbs cost more (with the built-in reflector). LEDs have lumen deprecation. The bulbs should probably be replaced after 2000 hours. Particularly lights used in flower. Veg doesn't matter as much. Rotate the flower lights to veg.

I wouldn't discount using these in flower either. Even as sidelight to a "real" grow light, they make a difference. I've used them to flower at 18-22w/sq ft with good results. (<<link). It would have been better at 30w/sq ft. That's still low compared to how many LED grow-light fixtures are used (50w/sq ft). But, using them to sidelight a traditional fixture would make a big difference. I think the value is getting light *close* to the plant for less inverse-square loss. Adding 40w around the side of a plant (four 10w 60w-equiv bulbs) would be like adding 80w to the top light. I might be exagerating. But, it's much better than adding light to the top. It makes better use of the watts.

You have some nice light ideas fo not a lot of money, since I have a tent to clamp things on I find that the clamps don’t hold onto my skinny tent frame.and ideas on that. I have 2 300 leds and then two tube grow led lights, a foot long each, on the sides of my plants and I have a 2x4 grow space.i have started also leaving the tent open because of heat of those leds...doesn’t feel hot but temp up to 86 f..so rock on with your ideas..and

 

[az2000]

I have a tent to clamp things on I find that the clamps don’t hold onto my skinny tent frame.and ideas on that

Here's an example of how you can mount anything to your tent legs. This is the first tent-leg mount I. I had a couple clamp-on desk fans. They bolted onto the spring clamp. I made this platform for them to mount on:

That's just 1x4" wood. Two wood screws joining them together (through the bottom). And steel corner/angle braces on each side.

It connects to the tent leg using two 1-inch "muffler clamps." I replaced the hex nuts with wing nuts for easier use.

I slipped clear vinyl tube over the muffler clamp so it wouldn't crush/mar the tent leg. I think it's 1/4" inside-diameter tube. Ace Hardware usually has a large selection of clamps and vinyl tube.

. I have 2 300 leds and then two tube grow led lights, a foot long each, on the sides of my plants and I have a 2x4 grow space.i have started also leaving the tent open because of heat of those leds...doesn’t feel hot but temp up to 86 f..so rock on with your ideas..and

Are those 300 actual watts? In a 2x4 grow space you'd need 320w (40w/sq ft) of T5HO. That probably holds true for run-of-the-mill, Amazon-sold LED grow-light fixtures. With better LED, or distributing the watts around the plant, 30w/sq ft (240w total) should be good. (If you really work at putting the lights around the plants, many low-watt sources up close for less inverse-square loss, you should be able to do 20w/sq ft, 160w total.).

 

[Rikismom420]

Here's an example of how you can mount anything to your tent legs. This is the first tent-leg mount I. I had a couple clamp-on desk fans. They bolted onto the spring clamp. I made this platform for them to mount on:

View attachment 888805

View attachment 888806

That's just 1x4" wood. Two wood screws joining them together (through the bottom). And steel corner/angle braces on each side.

It connects to the tent leg using two 1-inch "muffler clamps." I replaced the hex nuts with wing nuts for easier use.

I slipped clear vinyl tube over the muffler clamp so it wouldn't crush/mar the tent leg. I think it's 1/4" inside-diameter tube. Ace Hardware usually has a large selection of clamps and vinyl tube.



Are those 300 actual watts? In a 2x4 grow space you'd need 320w (40w/sq ft) of T5HO. That probably holds true for run-of-the-mill, Amazon-sold LED grow-light fixtures. With better LED, or distributing the watts around the plant, 30w/sq ft (240w total) should be good. (If you really work at putting the lights around the plants, many low-watt sources up close for less inverse-square loss, you should be able to do 20w/sq ft, 160w total.).

They are maxisun 300wt led dimmable with bloom veg with it...so not sure what actual watts.. I have bought so many ....meters....to measure everything else just not light .i think one guy told me it was 39 watts per square feet on just the 300 w ones..yeah it amazon bought. Lights ..I will go look at hardware for different clamps ,just have to look beyond tent.....non tent clamp,ready like amazon sales. Lol..thx a bunch.

 

[az2000]

They are maxisun 300wt led dimmable

I googled and they're 142w actual. Two of those, not counting your fluorescent tubes (t5ho?), are 35.5w/sq ft. That sounds about right. If you have two t5ho tubes (2' long), that would be 41.5w/sq ft).

How tall is your 2x4' tent? Mine is only 4' tall. Those Maxisun fixtures wouln't work well for me because the LEDs are in reflectors. That can make them too intense for a short space. When I used LED fixtures like that, the LEDs were mounted on a white board. No reflectors. I could have it 1-2" from the leaves.

Sometimes it's good to go stand in the hardware store just for inspiration. Not to solve a problem, but to take in all the things they have, and think about how they can go together. PVC plumbing parts, electrical conduit parts, etc. Ace Hardware has bins of specialty nuts and bolts. An employee will always ask "can I help you find something." I say "no, I'm just looking for inspiration." They know what I'm talking about.

It's also useful to look at hardware online too. There are online PVC fittings sellers who have more variety than you'll see at the hardware store. Odd stuff (especially furniture PVC fittings, like a 4-way with a side outlet.). I usually start there, and then go to the local store to see if they have something I want. Grainer and McMaster-Carr have a lot of hard-to-find hardware.

 

[Justinb19]

Here r some updated pics

 

[Leelandgrow3]

So much better man good advice @az2000 and good job @Justinb19

 

[Justinb19]

So much better man good advice @az2000 and good job @Justinb19

I was thinking the r going ok but still kind of small

 

[Leelandgrow3]

Still way better than what u would have yeilded bro

 

[Justinb19]

Still way better than what u would have yeilded bro

Yeah thats true and i figure i probaly still have a couple weeks to go so they may double up

 

[az2000]

Yeah thats true and i figure i probaly still have a couple weeks to go so they may double up

Huge difference compared to when you added the lightbulbs (<<link, you were already 4 weeks into flower then. <<link), and five days into using them (<<link) showed improvement (that was 2 weeks + 2 days ago). It would have been interesting to see how they would have turned out if you'd started flower with that much light.

I think you have more that two weeks left. But, you'll decide when from the trichomes. You need a scope/loupe to examine them. I think the pistils should be at least partly brown. But, you'll go by the crystals (google about that topic if not familiar with it. There's lots of explanations.).

I forget what you're feeding. There's been some talk about magnesium contributing to bud development/bulking. And, sulfur contributing to terpene production. You could try supplementing with 1/4tsp epsom salt. That's 1.25g, and adds 76ppm (Mg=33, S=43). That should be safe. But, I hate to recommend anything that might ruin it now (I don't know what you're feeding, the quality of your water, etc. I've forgotten the soil too. 1/4tsp epsom salt is typically safe. But, if the fertilizer you use has a lot of Mg. Or, if the soil had a lot. Or... if your water is hard... maybe it's not a good idea.).

I like to use Pennington Alaska Pure Kelp in late flower (about where you are now). Around here it's at all the hardware stores. Cheap. 1Tablespoon/gal is only 44ppm. That's mostly K, a little N. Extra K can be good in flower. But, I think the real value of kelp is the growth hormones/auxins. I originally bought it thinking it would be good for veg, for the soil microbes, etc. But, it seemed to cause strange stretch. I used it in late flower once and it seemed like the buds densed/hardened. My theory was that, at that stage of life, all the growth is in the buds. "Stretch" in the buds is bulking/densing. I've seen other people say they've noticed the same thing. There's a thread on this forum about it. (<<link) When the buds are more mature (a week or two?), I woul use 2 Tablespoon/gal. Just once or twice. But, you could try 1Tbsp/gal now and see what happens. Maybe alternate one dose of kelp, two doses of epsom salt.

It wouldn't hurt to add three more 9w bulbs. More light in late flower always helps (unless you're already at some crazy-high w/sq ft. I.e., sometimes people run LED fixtures at 60-90w/sq ft. More watts in late flower probably wouldn't help in that situation. But, I don't think you're anywhere near that. I forget what you're w/sq ft is. But, 27w addtional would probably be good. It's something you could reuse as sidelighting in furture grows. (Not a dead-end investment.). Or, a 19w PAR38 floodlight might be good (3000K). I always had good results with those. That's more intense, penetrating light. Not great for coverage like adding more 9w bulbs. But, easier to setup/aim. You want a plastic floodlight you can cut the front off with a hacksaw. Then there's a lens over the surface mounted LEDs. When I used PAR38s, they were glass. They worked fine. I think the newer plastic ones with the front lens cut off (and inner lens removed) would produce more light (less absorption loss). But, I felt like the ones I used worked fine unmodified.

 

[Justinb19]

Here r some trichome pics not the best but hard to take

 

[Mr.jiujitsu]

Here r some trichome pics not the best but hard to take

Time to upgrade to a scope. Digital WiFi scopes are like 40$

 

[az2000]

Looks good. Are you able to distinguish clear, cloudy and amber trichomes? You need about 50-100x to get a good view. You can use cheap reading glasses from the drug store (3.00 magnification is the strongest, I thing). Wear those to look through the magnifying glass. That will triple whatever the glass is. That's a cheap way to get a multiplier effect.

If you like taking photos, buy a $27USD Supereyes B005 200x USB microscope (ASIN: B0066HA1PU). You can get some porn-like photos. It can be tricky to mount. I rubber-banded it to one of my inexpensive gooseneck lightbulb extenders. I installed that into one of my corner tent-leg light mounts. I could bend the gooseneck, and move the plant. That creates very precise focus.

I can't vouch for the software it comes with. I use MX Linux as my desktop, and the free "Cheese" as the webcam software. According to the reviews, it sounds like the Windows software it comes with is junky. But, any web cam software that lets you "snap a photo" will work.

 

[MIMedGrower]

I use these. Nice big eyepiece. Easy to hold still and see trichs up close.
https://www.amazon.com/Carson-Micro...t=&hvlocphy=9017485&hvtargid=pla-406573054463

 

[basscaptain]

Also, HPS would be a good choice in your climate. It's cheaper to get into than CMH. Hotter. I think people typically run those 50-60w sq ft. CMH is 35w/sq ft. (Neither of these numbers include the ballast. And, I sidelight CMH, as I would anything.). The heat of HPS could be valuable in your winter. Like I said, cheap to get into.

But, if you think you'll grow shorter plants (4' to 5' tall space), T5HO would be better (40w/sq ft.).

man with me just moving to a new area when you a few, I have some ?? for you but not on this guys post

 

[Justinb19]

Was just wondering what ur guys opions are considering harvesting my plant early buds are still not ad big as i would like and also need the space for my other plant as wife has plans for my other area did try a test nug last night high was superb exactly what i want but not that dense of nugs i think considering its my first plant i should count my loss and foucus on getting nice buds from my other two

 

[Justinb19]

Anybody?

 

[Leelandgrow3]

I say u still have some time but I'm not a expert and it is ur plant ur choice tbh but I would wait for a better opinion