sox
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how did you get it so amber/red?
alright, so i read and re read and read again, i think i got it down..now where to get hexane??
I get HPLC Reagent grade n-Hexane in 4 liter jugs at our local American Scientific Supply. Their core business is school lab supplies, so you might check out the same thing in Canada.
We buy our filters and charcoal the same place, or on E-Bay.
alright, so i went and got the proper things to smoke this oil (that black stuff) with and it tastes bad after the first initial bit of smoke. i made a new batch last night, it came out clearer than the last and more tastier, but still dark....gunna grab some 99% today and try again.
If you see this GrayWolf, please explain the water wash.
Thanks!
Sox
The loss of a good resin of 400 mg in 40-50 ml of ethanol is 150 mg to 2.5 g of coal for 15 minutes at room temperature.
Sensible loss of useful resin must accompany the process of cleaning a dirty extract with activated carbon from chlorophyll and its satellites.
This is the fee for effective cleaning.
Activated Charcoal - page 20, post #297 in thread Absolute Amber from Banana Silver Ladyboys, i c mag.
ah, i see..thanks for breakin it down for me.....and the science store is the only place you have been able to find the hexane?
Thanks again,
-Sox
I re-read referred article and saw that annoying error still continues to mislead the naive reader.
They accept written on trust and retell to others, spreading this misconception, as recently happened with the Turtle-Man.
Do you still not convinced of the insolubility of the natural chlorophyll in the water?
For vaporizing purposes with frozen iso and high quality dry buds, what are your favorite wash times for a first wash? I've heard as little as 2-3 seconds / just a couple of shakes with room temperature materials. Skunk Pharm qwiso guide says 20 seconds but I'm not exactly sure if that is for edibles/tinctures or the more sensitive vaporizing.
The acetone/hexane wash and winterization to get out the waxes doesn't subtract any good things right? Not sure if that's even really necessary if dabbing is the ultimate goal though, maybe it's easier to work with a little waxier, is this the difference between shatter and sticky oil?
p.s. What branch of chemistry book covers things in this thread like polar/non-polar solvents in general? Also esters/fumarates/salts/freebases and converting between them for any type of substance while I'm at it. Its probably time to quit using Wikipedia for some of these matters.
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