Alcohol Extraction

sox · Jun 20, 2012

how did you get it so amber/red?

sox · Jun 20, 2012

what if i ran it through a water filter?
Like one of those crazy ZeroWater things?? Dumb?

Graywolf · Jun 20, 2012

sox said:
alright, so i read and re read and read again, i think i got it down..now where to get hexane??

I get HPLC Reagent grade n-Hexane in 4 liter jugs at our local American Scientific Supply. Their core business is school lab supplies, so you might check out the same thing in Canada.

We buy our filters and charcoal the same place, or on E-Bay.

sox · Jun 20, 2012

Graywolf said:
I get HPLC Reagent grade n-Hexane in 4 liter jugs at our local American Scientific Supply. Their core business is school lab supplies, so you might check out the same thing in Canada.

We buy our filters and charcoal the same place, or on E-Bay.

And could you explain the "water wash"? i keep missing the description in your post

sox · Jun 21, 2012

alright, so i went and got the proper things to smoke this oil (that black stuff) with and it tastes bad after the first initial bit of smoke. i made a new batch last night, it came out clearer than the last and more tastier, but still dark....gunna grab some 99% today and try again.
If you see this GrayWolf, please explain the water wash.
Thanks!
Sox

Graywolf · Jun 21, 2012

sox said:
alright, so i went and got the proper things to smoke this oil (that black stuff) with and it tastes bad after the first initial bit of smoke. i made a new batch last night, it came out clearer than the last and more tastier, but still dark....gunna grab some 99% today and try again.
If you see this GrayWolf, please explain the water wash.
Thanks!
Sox

The short version is that we dissolve the oil in 10/20X volume of hexane and then mix with equal parts of saturated salt water in a separatory funnel. You can use a zip lock bag for the separatory funnel, in a pinch, and just use a new one for each wash.

Shake and let settle and separate. Bleed off the dirty water in the bottom layer and repeat until the solution is pristine.

After bleeding off the water the last time, evaporate off the hexane to leave oil.

Nuances and details at:

http://skunkpharmresearch.com/getting-the-green-and-waxes-out-afterwards/

sox · Jun 21, 2012

ah, i see..thanks for breakin it down for me.....and the science store is the only place you have been able to find the hexane?
Thanks again,
-Sox

jump · Jun 21, 2012

Graywolf said:
Nuances and details at:

http://skunkpharmresearch.com/getting-the-green-and-waxes-out-afterwards/

I re-read referred article and saw that annoying error still continues to mislead the naive reader.
They accept written on trust and retell to others, spreading this misconception, as recently happened with the Turtle-Man.
Do you still not convinced of the insolubility of the natural chlorophyll in the water?

sox · Jun 21, 2012

Jump or GW or TM, if run the 99% 2 times through the trim so it just pours right over it (no siting or stiring in a jar) just straight pour it over and then run through a coffee filter 3 times, then evap, then drop it in hot water and dissolve, then cool, then repeat, THEN double boil with the oil in the water...SO pretty much the instructions from TM without the acetone/hexane wash at then end, will it be CLOSE to amber? lol

jump · Jun 21, 2012

You offer not simply quick but very quick wash in iso.
Extraction of polar solvent is similar to the intention to cross in front of an oncoming train of chlorophyll.

But if you do not have time to demonstrate the wonders of super agility and quickness and chlorophyll still gets to you,
it will be three choices -
- To accept,
- Re-extracted in non-polar,
- Filtered through activated charcoal, paying him in good resin.

sox · Jun 21, 2012

i know your probably putting it as simple as possible, but can you explain?
Im lost...

sox · Jun 21, 2012

So putting it through activated charcol is the way, but you loose resin/thc..How much thc would you guess is lost, and where do you get activated charcol and how do you use it?
Thanks, sorry for all the questions.

jump · Jun 21, 2012

The loss of a good resin of 400 mg in 40-50 ml of ethanol is 150 mg to 2.5 g of coal for 15 minutes at room temperature.

Sensible loss of useful resin must accompany the process of cleaning a dirty extract with activated carbon from chlorophyll and its satellites.
This is the fee for effective cleaning.
Activated Charcoal - page 20, post #297 in thread Absolute Amber from Banana Silver Ladyboys, i c mag.

sox · Jun 21, 2012

jump said:
The loss of a good resin of 400 mg in 40-50 ml of ethanol is 150 mg to 2.5 g of coal for 15 minutes at room temperature.

Sensible loss of useful resin must accompany the process of cleaning a dirty extract with activated carbon from chlorophyll and its satellites.
This is the fee for effective cleaning.
Activated Charcoal - page 20, post #297 in thread Absolute Amber from Banana Silver Ladyboys, i c mag.

Thanks!
I searched ICmag forever and couldnt find sht

jump · Jun 21, 2012

Thus you couldn't see the illustrations of the process, I'm sorry about it, excuise me.. :(

sox · Jun 21, 2012

how do you use it?

Turtle Man · Jun 21, 2012

For vaporizing purposes with frozen iso and high quality dry buds, what are your favorite wash times for a first wash? I've heard as little as 2-3 seconds / just a couple of shakes with room temperature materials. Skunk Pharm qwiso guide says 20 seconds but I'm not exactly sure if that is for edibles/tinctures or the more sensitive vaporizing.

The acetone/hexane wash and winterization to get out the waxes doesn't subtract any good things right? Not sure if that's even really necessary if dabbing is the ultimate goal though, maybe it's easier to work with a little waxier, is this the difference between shatter and sticky oil?

p.s. What branch of chemistry book covers things in this thread like polar/non-polar solvents in general? Also esters/fumarates/salts/freebases and converting between them for any type of substance while I'm at it. Its probably time to quit using Wikipedia for some of these matters.

LIVE ACTION

Graywolf · Jun 21, 2012

sox said:
ah, i see..thanks for breakin it down for me.....and the science store is the only place you have been able to find the hexane?
Thanks again,
-Sox

I haven't bothered trying to find hexane anyplace else, because we don't use it huge amounts. I used to get it cheaper through a purchasing agent friend employed at a major industrial corp, but he retired.

Graywolf · Jun 21, 2012

jump said:
I re-read referred article and saw that annoying error still continues to mislead the naive reader.
They accept written on trust and retell to others, spreading this misconception, as recently happened with the Turtle-Man.
Do you still not convinced of the insolubility of the natural chlorophyll in the water?

Bro, I'm convinced that it doesn't dissolve into ions like NaCl, but I still believe polar chlorophyll is removed from non polar solvents and transported away by washing it with saturated salt water, as we demonstrate with our procedure..

I believe that polar chlorophyll turns our local polar water green, when I run it through my mini washing machine to make hash and leaves a green ring when allowed to evaporate away.

Do you have a better explaination of what is going on that you might share?

Graywolf · Jun 21, 2012

Turtle Man said:
For vaporizing purposes with frozen iso and high quality dry buds, what are your favorite wash times for a first wash? I've heard as little as 2-3 seconds / just a couple of shakes with room temperature materials. Skunk Pharm qwiso guide says 20 seconds but I'm not exactly sure if that is for edibles/tinctures or the more sensitive vaporizing.

The acetone/hexane wash and winterization to get out the waxes doesn't subtract any good things right? Not sure if that's even really necessary if dabbing is the ultimate goal though, maybe it's easier to work with a little waxier, is this the difference between shatter and sticky oil?

p.s. What branch of chemistry book covers things in this thread like polar/non-polar solvents in general? Also esters/fumarates/salts/freebases and converting between them for any type of substance while I'm at it. Its probably time to quit using Wikipedia for some of these matters.

LIVE ACTION

I've found a 20 second wash gives a pristine vaporizing oil as well. If I was going to vaporize it, I wouldn't decarboxylate it though, as it loses a lot of flavor.

The difference between shatter and sticky oil can be the difference between the carboxylic acid and the decarboxylated (or partially decarboxylated) forms.

If I vacuum purge raw oleoresin at low temperature, with the waxes still in place, I end up with a hard, stiff resin, that is varnish like to the touch.

I get the same thing when I vacuum purge an absolute in ethanol without heat, or with low heat.

If I decarboxylate that same oil, without fail, it will be darker in color and lower in viscosity. An oil, as opposed to a stiff resin.

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