Alice in Amberland, "one way or another this darkness has got to give."

Good evening
Do not attempt to adjust your computer there is nothing wrong
We have taken control as to bring you this special show
We will return it to you as soon as you are grooved
Welcome to Treefunk better known as tree-funk.
Coming to you directly fron the mother ship
Top of the milky way 12,000 watts of tree funk power
So kick back dig while we do it to you in your eye hole.
And me? Im known as big worm alias the long haired grower
my motto is
grow the bomb, grow the chronic
I want my trees dank as fuck
Alright, this is what I want you all to do
If you got faults, defects, or short comings
you know like arthritis, rheumatism, or migraines whatever part of your body it is I want you to lay it on the line
Let the vibes flow through cause tree funk not only moves it can remove dig?
The desired effect is what you get when you improve your interplanetary funksmanship
Doing it to you in 3D, so groovey that I dig me
Once upon a time called right now
somebody said is there funk after death?
I say "is seven up?"
Tree funk uncut funk, the bomb
Ok Ok let me put my sunglasses on
thats the law around here you got to wear your sunglasses
so you can feel cool.
Well alright I was diggin on yall funk for a while
looked like a three to me
then I was down south and seen some funk with some main ingredients
like gsc, og, blue dream.
Could you imagine blue dream in your funk?
NO!!! Tree-funk, uncut funk, the bomb.
Enjoy the show
 
So quite a few changes since the caged thread. First we added a second system it's a evolution 15 site in the 13 gallon modules. We have 4 e-papillons over the top. Then our other 16 site double barrel configuration. We have 6 adjust a wings with solis tek mh 4k bulbs. We installed a excel air system that we got used for a great deal so couldn't pass it up. It has their 14" vinyl duct that spreads out nice cooled air evenly throughout the room and with the return being on the bottom of the air handler it picks up the Co2 and distributes it perfectly. We added a home made humidifier (thanks to ghettogro for that idea it works great) So right now its a cool 80 degrees and the rh is 55-60. Probably later tonight or tomorrow i'll be dropping 4-6 verticals around our canopy. We've grown using a trelis for so long we had to give the mini tree trelis style a try. We'll see how it goes but so far we seen a exsplosion of tops sprout up after adding the trelis.We basically just tied the trelis to our cages. More to come soon.My better half has been super sick so.....
 
So quite a few changes since the caged thread. First we added a second system it's a evolution 15 site in the 13 gallon modules. We have 4 e-papillons over the top. Then our other 16 site double barrel configuration. We have 6 adjust a wings with solis tek mh 4k bulbs. We installed a excel air system that we got used for a great deal so couldn't pass it up. It has their 14" vinyl duct that spreads out nice cooled air evenly throughout the room and with the return being on the bottom of the air handler it picks up the Co2 and distributes it perfectly. We added a home made humidifier (thanks to ghettogro for that idea it works great) So right now its a cool 80 degrees and the rh is 55-60. Probably later tonight or tomorrow i'll be dropping 4-6 verticals around our canopy. We've grown using a trelis for so long we had to give the mini tree trelis style a try. We'll see how it goes but so far we seen a exsplosion of tops sprout up after adding the trelis.We basically just tied the trelis to our cages. More to come soon.My better half has been super sick so.....
hope she feels better soon
 
totally bitchinly AWESOME Amber!:cool:your set up is so clean and professional.im ready to get down and funky for the show sista!:blackalien:you ever see that hysterical video with Jorge Cervantes doin a plug for the Ajust a Wing avenger light hood? its so freakin funny!!!are those the ones you have? i hope your other half feels better realllll soon. :cat:
 
So sealed grow rooms haven't been super popular before the millennium. At least not for me and my crew. We only took to a sealed approach for the last say 15 years but is sealed actually a better route? I guess that depends on a lot of factors. Privacy being the biggest but I know a lot of growers that don't concern themselves with the correct atmosphere. I'm adding a little write up that I'm sure 99% of the farmers here on the farm are aware of but IMO what defines a good grower from a great grower is discussed here.
It's hard ,well not hard but expensive to run a sealed room optimally. Added costs of humidifiers and dehumidifiers can be thousands and the extra power is a lot. Since taking water culture as a hobby I've really tried to maintain my environment optimally as possible.
A recent thread by ghettogro shows how fast things can go bad if conditions get detrimental for plants. Obviously he is no rookie around the grow room either but oxygen levels fell short which caused the Co2 burners to put off a toxic(to plants) substance. This is ethylene and some plants are very sensitive to this. Even though they actually produce this themselves as a flowering hormone they need their Co2 to be pure.
So when revamping our room I took this into consideration. Even though our excel air system turns over the air in our room dozens of times per hour we still use a Co2 burner that needs a lot of oxygen to burn correctly. Also during the night cycle plants need fresh air. Even though they are producing oxygen at night I felt it would be a good idea to bring in some additional air. Since our Cali air is nice and cool with a low rh we are taking advantage of this these winter months and bringing in filtered fresh air. Also Cutting down on power consumption and hopefully increasing yields. I'm not saying bringing in fresh air is good for everyone but just wanting to touch up on what I think is one of the larger factors in growing super dank. Everything is a trade off and every room is different but a few things I read from that thread I think are keeping me on my toes recently and also saving me some money.
I took his DIY humidifier idea and made a couple humidifiers for myself and a some friends. Plan on making more too. By taking a tote and adding a float with a fogger and a fan helped increase our humidity substantially. I added a cheap little spa ozone generator and small pump to keep the water bacteria free. The fogger being the most expensive piece putting something like this together for less than 200$ and company's are charging 600-800$ for basically the same set up. Mainlandmart.com has the foggers if anyone is interested in building themselves one. I'll add a pic in a bit but here is a little piece on
 
Temperature & Humidity
HUMIDITY:

Humidity is a very important environmental element that must be controlled for healthy plants, and connoisseur grade meds. Humidity controls the rate of transpiration and how the nutrients are received by the plant. The humidity level is like a pressure cap on the plant, keeping the moisture in the plant, allowing it to have proper transpiration rates of the fluids. Ideal humidity levels in a grow room range between 50% to 70% in vegetative growth, and 50% to 60% for flowering plants.

When humidity levels drop too low, the plants transpire at a rate much quicker than that of nutrient uptake. The nutrients or minerals do not transpire thru the plant, only the water does. So this leaves behind a concentrated level of nutrients in the plant that will actually cause a nutrient burn. Most people don’t realize in situations like these that the humidity could be responsible; usually thinking that it is too many nutrients in the reservoir. Just as a lack of CO2 can cause a plant to go dormant, low humidity can cause a plant to have nutrient problems, resulting from the transpiration rate being much too high in low humidity level environments.

Conversely, when humidity levels get too high, moisture is building up on the plants and walls, forming whole colonies of molds, fungi, and mildews. These pathogens will destroy your garden if not taken care of immediately. This is one more reason why a controlled, closed loop, sealed room is the best way to build and run a grow room, as you can control every element of the environment with the right equipment.

Often, in a protected cropping situation, we carefully adjust temperature and supply heating or cooling, but humidity gets overlooked, and it is actually the combination of the two that needs to be taken into consideration.

Temperature:
The biochemical functions in plants that are required for growth and survival are `temperature dependant’ – that is there is an optimal temperature range within which a particular plant species will be carrying out photosynthesis at its maximum rate (given that sufficient CO2, water and light are also present). Outside this range, photosynthesis and other plant processes begin to slow down, to the point where they stop and growth ceases.

Outside these ranges, plant growth slows due to either conditions being to cold and slowing chemical reactions inside plant cells, or becoming to hot, which denatures enzymes and causes cell death. What needs to be taken into consideration when trying to decide on an optimum temperature for plant growth, is the levels of CO2 and light which are being provided. A plant which is in a CO2 enriched atmosphere (1000 – 1500ppm), being supplied with high light levels has a higher temperature optima (at the higher end of the temperature range given) than one which is grown under standard, lower light conditions. For this reason it is possible to `accelerate’ plant growth by preventing any environmental factor (CO2 ,light, temperature, water) from becoming the ` limiting factor’ in plant growth. When high levels of light, CO2 and optimum temperature are provided, the limiting factor in plant growth becomes the speed at which the biochemcial reactions such as photosynthesis can be carried out within the plants tissues -and this is the ideal situation for a grower to achieve, since growth rates will be maximized.


There are two types of environment that might be maintained in a grow room. Firstly there is the closed cycle or closed loop environment, where no air is introduced from outside. Here, CO2 is replenished artificially, temperature is controlled via heating or cooling units, water is removed or added to the air to control humidity levels.

The closed loop system, can be difficult to adequately control and requires the use of more equipment and hence a greater cost.
One effective way of removing moisture from the air and lowering humidity levels is with a condenser unit – a metal plate which is colder than the surrounding air will cause water to condense on the surface. This removal of water from the air via condensation lowers the humidity.

The interaction of temperature and humidity in the grow room is fairly simple – the warmer the temperature, the more water is lost from the plants. This water from plant transpiration rapidly increases the humidity in the air surrounding the crop to fairly high levels. If this humidity continues to rise and stay at high levels it limits the amount of water that can be lost from plant tissue, slowing photosynthesis encouraging fungal pathogens to take hold and sometimes causing other ‘odd symptoms’. Plant ‘oedema’ is one such symptom which is essentially an accumulation of water in the plant tissue (making it look pale and puffy), this condition indicates that conditions are too humid and warm for plant biochemical processes to be carried out correctly and needs to be avoided. Since plants are so efficient at increasing the humidity of the environment through transpiration, the amount of air change with the outside environment becomes an important factor for crop production. If we look at a similar situation in a greenhouse – where plants are rapidly transpiring, the current recommendation is for 60 air changes per hour to occur with the outside environment. This means the entire volume of the greenhouse is vented out and replaced 60 times per hour – and this is what is required in a mature crop to replenish the CO2, adjust the temperature, and vent out humid air to maintain a good level of plant growth. A grow room has a similar requirement – the lighting adds to the heat load in the small area (where plants are often densely planted), the plants rapidly increase the humidity in the air and CO2 depletion can occur when light levels are high.

Therefore the air in the room needs to be vented out and replaced rapidly. When the plants are small, the plant to air volume is large (there is plenty of air and few plants), and less air replacement is required per unit of time. However by the time the plants are mature and considerably larger, the plant to air volume is small and many more air changes per hour are required to move excess heat/humidty and replenish CO2. This plant to air volume ratio is a vital consideration when a grow rooms ventilation system is designed to ensure sufficient air changes per hour can occur at all stages of crop development.

Air changes are more important during the day – due to the heat build up from lighting equipment, but are also still required at night when humidity levels can still build due to water loss from the plants. Since the environment is often heated at night, some heat will be lost due to having to vent the grow room, but introducing fresh air is important at night since plants require oxygen for respiration and removal of excess humidity.

By keeping a close eye on the appearance of the plants, problems with temperature and humidity soon make themselves obvious Plants that are wilting or have oedema and are pale and ‘puffy’ may be too warm/humid. Dry scorched patches on the leaf tips are an indication of low humidity. As with all other plant growth factors, measurement of temperature and humidity levels in the plant’s environment is the best way to monitoring what is going on in the grow room and allowing the necessary adjustments to be made.

Feel free to chime in with previous experiences keeping your room at these optimal conditions for accelerated growth. I'm all about the accelerated growth. I'll post some more pics in a bit but figured it's going to be a few weeks until the real porn is available might as well chop it up till then.
 
good read alice d. I ran closed loop and co2 for a few summers and went back to open air venting and just a/c for the last prolly 9 months and I can say I don't miss all the extra power bills,co2 bills and final product at all.since I went back to running no co2 and normal temps of 75-78f my patients have said on several occasions that my weed is back to what they craved when I first started growing indoors.im convinced all those additions to indoor growing make for really big,puffed up plants that just don't have the same zip as my stuff does now or when I started off in here.sure I got tons of pics of plants that grew bigger than normal and they were super frosty but im tellin ya the potency changes,for me anyways.but I understand in some situations you need to close up and add the rh and co2,hot dry areas of the world or real cold areas you need to make those changes.im in Michigan and we had a pretty hot summer last year and my lil 3 ton a/c kept up fine while I added 90f outside air a few times a day,and this time of year I run a 6 inch fan to bring in my cooling air and shut down most of the fans for the cooltubes or turn them down to a slow idle. but I have seen some sweet grows on this site(yours included) that gets me thinking about trying the closed system again.all the equipment is here ready to go,but I just gotta look around my room and I can see everythings fine this way and im knee deep in work over here lol.
lookin forward to this run with some of these new changes,really want to see what you 2 do with those new lights,peace
 
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