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Dirtbag
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Thats impressive!
But as far as nutrients and cec the ec remains consistant through pot size. Its the multiple feeds that grow more bud.
Most i have done in the 1 gallon (2/3 gallon) is just under 3 oz with 6 weeks veg.
And the most i have done in a #3 (2.4 gallon) is just under 8.
Of course i only watered/fertilized once to saturation every 2-3 days.
And maybe once a week through veg and stretch.
With a non staggared crop i could add perlite up to 50/50 ratio and water them all every day and may get even better results.
We are basically saying the same thing. The multiple daily feeds keeps the EC and ppm ratio breakdown consistant which causes the growth rate to go berserk because it always has access to everything it needs in the right ratio, ph and EC.
I look at cec influence based on the volume of media like a refrigerator. Assuming the amount of food coming in the house is the same, a smaller fridge will hold less food, leaving more out to be eaten right away. A big fridge will hold onto more food leaving less available to eat immediately.
The beauty of coco is that fully saturated it holds the perfect amount of air allowing you to just keep pumping in the groceries. And if you keep the fridge (volume of media) small, it has pretty much constant access to that food.
Dirtbag
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BurnzYzBudZz
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What's that??? Your going with LED?
X² Commercial LED Grow Light
The perfect solution to vertical racking and overhead grow operations, the X² commercial LED grow light is designed for close-proximity growing, capitalizing on valuable tiered growing space while maintaining a large footprint and even PPFD.
Aqua Man
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Let's just stick to growing... All info welcome here
MIMedGrower
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Let's just stick to growing... All info welcome here
Sure welcome to be challanged. ;-)
Dr.Green55
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I said should not need to. But i figured you wouldnt. Its easy to see my results. My thread has gotten long.
When you make a lot of egotistical statements to strangers online its best to back them up. You said you have a legal grow. And there is no need to divulge anything personal.
So refusing does not help anyone to trust your info.
egotistical statements and knowledge is 2 different things , I freely post my knowledge and opinions on things, if you don't trust it or don't understand or don't have the experienced knowledge to keep up, don't read my posts, But I will a sure of this if you think that after all my growing experience and education I need to post pics and shit to get your trust or to be legitimized, your fucking retarded, out of all the professional people I worked with in my day, you know how many of them post on here? 0
can and can't and refusing is different , I'd love to put a grow on here trust me, but my factors that I have to consider are far out side the scope of anything you are thinking, their is always that IF, well that if may effect others, other then myself. so I have to be responsible period.
Aqua Man
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Ok you both had your say. Let's get back to talking what our experiences are and leave the personal stuff out. No pics needed debate welcome and leave the the personal attacks out.
I know wtf am I to say that and also guilty of it at times but now I have to set and lead by example
Don't make me clean my own thread U2
I know wtf am I to say that and also guilty of it at times but now I have to set and lead by example
Don't make me clean my own thread U2
Last edited:
MIMedGrower
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Ok you both had your say. Let's get back to talking what are experiences are and leave the personal stuff out. No pics needed debate welcome and leave the the personal attacks out.
I know wtf am I to say that and also guilty of it at times but now I have to set and lead by example.
Don't make me clean my own thread U2
I dont know if i like you being a moderator. I want honest opinionated Aquaman back!
Aqua Man
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Haha I don't think anyone wants that. My mood swings get the better of me with this dam back. Now I just go have a smoke and coffee... It's therapeuticI dont know if i like you being a moderator. I want honest opinionated Aquaman back!
PlumberSoCal2
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That GDP I harvested in MayThe nursery pots are actually smaller volume. Its really a #1 plastic nursery pot jas tapered sides and is about 2/3 a gallon. And a #3 is 2.4 gallons actual volume. Where the soft pots have straight sides and are actually the volume stated.
That said why would the CEC change due to volume?
And what yield did you pull per 1 gallon of soil (coco)? I guess per plant average is what im curious about.
was over 6 oz's in a 1 gal coco fiber pot. I've weighed almost 5 oz of manicured and have 4 spears I just cut up and expect close to 2 oz when manicured.
I mainlined it to 8 colas
removed some of the lower side branches and pollinated. Real happy with the results.
PlumberSoCal2
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"Soild brick of roots." That's what I'm seeing as well. Hard to find the coco that I know I filled the pot with as it's all roots. You can reuse the coco, if you can find anyTrue but you also have to remember you use way less coco compared to peat. 1 gal of coco vs 3 gal of peat means the small pot of coco actually has closer to 1/6th the nutrient holding capacity for the same sized plant compared to peat. When I pulled my fabric pots apart after the last grow I had essentially a solid brick of roots, you could hardly even see the coco anymore.
With a concentrated rootzone and multiple daily feeds it performs almost exactly like rockwool hydro with no cec.
Dirtbag
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Lol I tried to shake mine out to get a pic of just the roots, no dice. Blasted them with a hose but that didnt work very well either so I gave up halfway through the first one."Soild brick of roots." That's what I'm seeing as well. Hard to find the coco that I know I filled the pot with as it's all roots. You can reuse the coco, if you can find any
Aqua Man
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Lol I tried to shake mine out to get a pic of just the roots, no dice. Blasted them with a hose but that didnt work very well either so I gave up halfway through the first one.
Well thank you for saving me the time... I sure as hell would have tried also lol"Soild brick of roots." That's what I'm seeing as well. Hard to find the coco that I know I filled the pot with as it's all roots. You can reuse the coco, if you can find any
JTKush905
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Nice little girlies
Dr.Green55
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So with all the talk about the P I'll try to share some what I know on the why, why P should be amplified before the switch to flower ,which I don't really think has been shared. I'm not going to be really specific just an overview
Disclaimer some of what I'm going to share I know has been shown in university studies and can be found online and some of it is from my own experimenting testing etc. Note testing is still being done and nothing is 100% scientific proven but these are the general consensus. also take into consideration I have not posted pic's yet therefore have not yet gained trusted or legitimized status, lol
P uptake, So there is evidence to show that cannabis only requires uptake rates of P at 15-20 ppm actually could be lower 10-15 but i'll say 15-20 for this, any lower and it can't sustain and higher and its a waste. 15-20 ppm is what the plant needs for optimal uptake.
Studies show that outside in natural conditions cannabis plants gradually uptake P and stores it in its reserves, using what P it needs from the reserves and just replenishing it, it does this over a month to 2 months during the Veg stage until it plateaus, then the plant naturally transitions to the budding stage or bud formation, due to light and temps changes etc, natural triggers. it already has the P it needs in storage for this stage, so tecnically it only needs to maintain its 15-20ppm uptake rate, when I say uptake rate I mean thats what needs to be available to the plant. Then the plant moves to bud sizing and finishing stage , the 3 phases of flower.
Now consider this indoors, the plant still functions the same or at least wants to, but especially under high intense lighting , fast growth rates etc we are eliminating the time the plant needs to store P and eliminating the natural triggers to flower.
So my reasoning for the extra P 4 to 5 days before flowering, is to boost p levels in my soil , to make sure the plant is at max uptake, and is storing P and for any other trigger it has to for flower, so when the plant is triggered using light/ temps the plant is primed for budding stage and has the supply of P it needs, but again by just the P alone it does create a reaction in the plant. Now I believe if this is not done with the P before the flip to flower , the delayed reaction in budding is due to the plants abrupt adjustment in to that stage , and its adjustment to the P requirements and the uptake, storage and usability of it. There are other factors as well, but thats another time.
My point about low intensity grows is that most of those grows are slower, and veg stages can easily run 1 to 1.5 months or better, giving the plant time to naturally store P or at least have high stored levels , making the early added P not a necessary or noticeable. again there are other factors.
Like I said there are other factors, P in high or low dosages has other reaction or consequences, and nutrient requirements generally slightly change moving into the bud sizing and again in the finishing stages. but that is my quick overview on P I hope it makes sense to some and helps some people out.
Thanks for the ride its been fun.
Disclaimer some of what I'm going to share I know has been shown in university studies and can be found online and some of it is from my own experimenting testing etc. Note testing is still being done and nothing is 100% scientific proven but these are the general consensus. also take into consideration I have not posted pic's yet therefore have not yet gained trusted or legitimized status, lol
P uptake, So there is evidence to show that cannabis only requires uptake rates of P at 15-20 ppm actually could be lower 10-15 but i'll say 15-20 for this, any lower and it can't sustain and higher and its a waste. 15-20 ppm is what the plant needs for optimal uptake.
Studies show that outside in natural conditions cannabis plants gradually uptake P and stores it in its reserves, using what P it needs from the reserves and just replenishing it, it does this over a month to 2 months during the Veg stage until it plateaus, then the plant naturally transitions to the budding stage or bud formation, due to light and temps changes etc, natural triggers. it already has the P it needs in storage for this stage, so tecnically it only needs to maintain its 15-20ppm uptake rate, when I say uptake rate I mean thats what needs to be available to the plant. Then the plant moves to bud sizing and finishing stage , the 3 phases of flower.
Now consider this indoors, the plant still functions the same or at least wants to, but especially under high intense lighting , fast growth rates etc we are eliminating the time the plant needs to store P and eliminating the natural triggers to flower.
So my reasoning for the extra P 4 to 5 days before flowering, is to boost p levels in my soil , to make sure the plant is at max uptake, and is storing P and for any other trigger it has to for flower, so when the plant is triggered using light/ temps the plant is primed for budding stage and has the supply of P it needs, but again by just the P alone it does create a reaction in the plant. Now I believe if this is not done with the P before the flip to flower , the delayed reaction in budding is due to the plants abrupt adjustment in to that stage , and its adjustment to the P requirements and the uptake, storage and usability of it. There are other factors as well, but thats another time.
My point about low intensity grows is that most of those grows are slower, and veg stages can easily run 1 to 1.5 months or better, giving the plant time to naturally store P or at least have high stored levels , making the early added P not a necessary or noticeable. again there are other factors.
Like I said there are other factors, P in high or low dosages has other reaction or consequences, and nutrient requirements generally slightly change moving into the bud sizing and again in the finishing stages. but that is my quick overview on P I hope it makes sense to some and helps some people out.
Thanks for the ride its been fun.
chemistry
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Fat bottomed girls, you make the rockin world go around.
Aqua Man
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So with all the talk about the P I'll try to share some what I know on the why, why P should be amplified before the switch to flower ,which I don't really think has been shared. I'm not going to be really specific just an overview
Disclaimer some of what I'm going to share I know has been shown in university studies and can be found online and some of it is from my own experimenting testing etc. Note testing is still being done and nothing is 100% scientific proven but these are the general consensus. also take into consideration I have not posted pic's yet therefore have not yet gained trusted or legitimized status, lol
P uptake, So there is evidence to show that cannabis only requires uptake rates of P at 15-20 ppm actually could be lower 10-15 but i'll say 15-20 for this, any lower and it can't sustain and higher and its a waste. 15-20 ppm is what the plant needs for optimal uptake.
Studies show that outside in natural conditions cannabis plants gradually uptake P and stores it in its reserves, using what P it needs from the reserves and just replenishing it, it does this over a month to 2 months during the Veg stage until it plateaus, then the plant naturally transitions to the budding stage or bud formation, due to light and temps changes etc, natural triggers. it already has the P it needs in storage for this stage, so tecnically it only needs to maintain its 15-20ppm uptake rate, when I say uptake rate I mean thats what needs to be available to the plant. Then the plant moves to bud sizing and finishing stage , the 3 phases of flower.
Now consider this indoors, the plant still functions the same or at least wants to, but especially under high intense lighting , fast growth rates etc we are eliminating the time the plant needs to store P and eliminating the natural triggers to flower.
So my reasoning for the extra P 4 to 5 days before flowering, is to boost p levels in my soil , to make sure the plant is at max uptake, and is storing P and for any other trigger it has to for flower, so when the plant is triggered using light/ temps the plant is primed for budding stage and has the supply of P it needs, but again by just the P alone it does create a reaction in the plant. Now I believe if this is not done with the P before the flip to flower , the delayed reaction in budding is due to the plants abrupt adjustment in to that stage , and its adjustment to the P requirements and the uptake, storage and usability of it. There are other factors as well, but thats another time.
My point about low intensity grows is that most of those grows are slower, and veg stages can easily run 1 to 1.5 months or better, giving the plant time to naturally store P or at least have high stored levels , making the early added P not a necessary or noticeable. again there are other factors.
Like I said there are other factors, P in high or low dosages has other reaction or consequences, and nutrient requirements generally slightly change moving into the bud sizing and again in the finishing stages. but that is my quick overview on P I hope it makes sense to some and helps some people out.
Thanks for the ride its been fun.
MIMedGrower
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@Dr.Green55 not arguing but can you please post a study the backs up your claim that the plant stores reserve P?
Because dyna grow and advanced nutrients test prove different. And the university of utah also says that the plant does not store excess anything in its leaves at any stage. Just pretty much the same ratio all the way through.
Because dyna grow and advanced nutrients test prove different. And the university of utah also says that the plant does not store excess anything in its leaves at any stage. Just pretty much the same ratio all the way through.
chemistry
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You do love a puzzle MIM. lol
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