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Asked 3 sites got 3 different answers

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Asked 3 sites got 3 different answers

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Oh yeah I forgot to mention, some of my tallest buds have bright white tip tops. You can see it in a few of the pictures. Under the scope it looks like itโ€™s just thick dense trichomes which would be exciting but I was wanting a second opinion as to what that might be


If they are resin glands (trichomes) then that is just awesome but if it is the calyx turned white from green it is light bleaching and may not have any potency up there.
 
Itโ€™s just the very top so if it is light bleach. Iโ€™m not losing much at all. But yeah looked like really dense trichomes

Ironic, I was just reading this the other day. Might be of interest;

 
Oh yeah I forgot to mention, some of my tallest buds have bright white tip tops. You can see it in a few of the pictures. Under the scope it looks like itโ€™s just thick dense trichomes which would be exciting but I was wanting a second opinion as to what that might be
Pics or it didnt happen๐Ÿ˜œ
 
It is the physical size of the calcium ions. They are the largest ions. Phosphorous is next largest. It is not usually ph swings that cause lockout but actual buildup on the roots and in the medium blocking uptake.

Thats why the ph returns to normal after leaching with fresh water. The buffers in the soil are stronger than the acidity of the nutes and peat. And when plants eat the ph rises too. But they cant with too much excess nutrients.


I believe i have all this right. Someone please correct me if i am wrong.

Yep I believe you are correct with that. @Jimster @Dirtbag was talking cal carbonate directly binding with P and forming cal phosphate which is mostly insoluble and will precipitate out of the mix. This can happen when the PH gets to right around 8 which is why you have to be careful using the carbonate version in nutrient mixes. Kind of like when using MAP. You have to specifically make a separate application of it or mix it in its own step cause it doesnt like to play nice with other nutes (even tho its one of the best forms of P to use as far as uptake goes but that nute in itself can have all sorts of effects since it contains NH4 - article below)

phosphorus is locked out from the Ph rise, or from a direct reaction between the Calcium and the Phosphorus... or are we talking about the same beast from different perspectives (as in the Ph rise is a result of the Ca/P reaction instead of the Ph rise coming solely from the Ca actions)? This could help to explain the rash of Phosphorus looking problems when some folks are using a bunch of Cal-Mag... I guess the form of the Calcium ( Calcium carbonate vs nitrate?) could really cause issues that aren't consistent with regular Ca Mg additives.

Exactly

there is 2 parts to that

Calmg (Cal N version) usually have Fe in them (since they are for tomatoes to prevent blossom end rot) Problem is it can start locking out P and will make it look like a deficiency. Calmg (carbonate) can have the effect as above and basically bind the little available P and will cause a deficiency.

N and it's uptake, depending on the form, is what swings medium PH both directions in the root zone directly effecting all sorts of things. PH being one of them so Calmg (Cal N version) can swing the medium PH out of wack. Good read
 
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Thanks for posting.
 
Yep I believe you are correct with that. @Jimster @Dirtbag was talking cal carbonate directly binding with P and forming cal phosphate which is mostly insoluble and will precipitate out of the mix. This can happen when the PH gets to right around 8 which is why you have to be careful using the carbonate version in nutrient mixes. Kind of like when using MAP. You have to specifically make a separate application of it or mix it in its own step cause it doesnt like to play nice with other nutes (even tho its one of the best forms of P to use as far as uptake goes but that nute in itself can have all sorts of effects since it contains NH4 - article below)



Exactly

there is 2 parts to that

Calmg (Cal N version) usually have Fe in them (since they are for tomatoes to prevent blossom end rot) Problem is it can start locking out P and will make it look like a deficiency. Calmg (carbonate) can have the effect as above and basically bind the little available P and will cause a deficiency.

N and it's uptake, depending on the form, is what swings medium PH both directions in the root zone directly effecting all sorts of things. PH being one of them so Calmg (Cal N version) can swing the medium PH out of wack. Good read



So really we need to flush and then feed again to insure uptake at the final stages.

Funny. They greenhouse seeds guys show this in their grow videos. They flush heavily then let it dry out real good then feed to blow up the buds.
 
Your plants honestly look hot af! Way too much nitrogen in your feed that's why your leaves are so dark. Probably causing a nute lock out hense the rust spots and paper feeling leaves. Also explains the nutes burn to the tips. Flush with ph balanced water with halve nutes for 2 weeks . Should clear it up just fine.
 
Your plants honestly look hot af! Way too much nitrogen in your feed that's why your leaves are so dark. Probably causing a nute lock out hense the rust spots and paper feeling leaves. Also explains the nutes burn to the tips. Flush with ph balanced water with halve nutes for 2 weeks . Should clear it up just fine.
Maybe the pictures are misleading but I donโ€™t have a dark green leaf in the garden. I have purple and yellow leaves ๐Ÿ˜‚ Iโ€™m chopping in a week and a half. Iโ€™m not doing anything drastic at this point just gonna ease into harvest and yield will be what it is. โœŒ๏ธ and โค๏ธ
 
Use better nutes. Flora is garbage and so is foxfarm. They look deficient all the way around, but your flowers donโ€™t look half bad. Go to a hydro store and see whatโ€™s happenin. Itโ€™s gonna cost you more than miracle gro but it will solve your problems and give you better tastier more flower
 
Flora range works superb imo! How well your nutes work will depend on how you use them and also obviously your growing medium and ph will have an effect.
If your plants looked constantly deficient when using flora you were doing something wrong.
 
Is that a LED glowing white in your tent? Iโ€™d blame the LED for the funny looking leaves and bleaching. Any plants I have under led that flowers and has enough light to do it always looks haggard or off color, and white led usually isnโ€™t the best for growing mono wavelength and all. Limited wavelengths of light causing funny chlorophyll. But I think your buds look as good as that set up Is gonna allow, Iโ€™d smoke em. Get a decent sodium light(400 for that tent) like all the cool kids, and some better nutes like botanicare or Advanced nutes and that will end
 
Is that a LED glowing white in your tent? Iโ€™d blame the LED for the funny looking leaves and bleaching. Any plants I have under led that flowers and has enough light to do it always looks haggard or off color, and white led usually isnโ€™t the best for growing mono wavelength and all. Limited wavelengths of light causing funny chlorophyll. But I think your buds look as good as that set up Is gonna allow, Iโ€™d smoke em. Get a decent sodium light(400 for that tent) like all the cool kids, and some better nutes like botanicare or Advanced nutes and that will end
Thanks. Yeah itโ€™s a white light setting, for pictures and general viewing, the light itself is a high quality led. Itโ€™s not a cheap amazon black box . Itโ€™s seems to have very good reviews. I donโ€™t believe a 400 watt would perform well in a 5x5 tent maybe 2 of them? As was said earlier the plants had some problems from the beginning. I do believe it had something to do with a ph lockout and they just never really fully recovered. Iโ€™ll keep in mind what you have said for my next grow. โœŒ and โค
 
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In my opinion there are no โ€œgood ledโ€ itโ€™s just not there all the way. Not even the ones that are like 3-4k, if they were Iโ€™d use them. 5x5? get a 1k nanolux dimmable with a hortilux sodium. Youโ€™ll like your results
 
๐Ÿ˜Ž
 

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I would like to hear you elaborate on this
Some of those older nutes just require a little bit more experience to use and itโ€™s easier to point someone in the direction of a newer more comprehensive product than it is to teach someone how to use something from the 80s. They work fine if you understand what you doing with them but if your already running into deficiency and lockout situations maybe a more straightforward user friendly item is for you. Especially if you do t have to buy it by the 55 gal drum
 
Some of those older nutes just require a little bit more experience to use and itโ€™s easier to point someone in the direction of a newer more comprehensive product than it is to teach someone how to use something from the 80s. They work fine if you understand what you doing with them but if your already running into deficiency and lockout situations maybe a more straightforward user friendly item is for you. Especially if you do t have to buy it by the 55 gal drum
Itโ€™s only my opinion
 
Flora range works superb imo! How well your nutes work will depend on how you use them and also obviously your growing medium and ph will have an effect.
If your plants looked constantly deficient when using flora you were doing something wrong.
Yea thatโ€™s my point. Something easier to use instead of trying to figure out how to use flora. Super outdated super chemical in my opinion. Why not use miracle gro? Same company
 
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