Bag Seed Hunting & The Lst Adventure

[Srenots]

This specific round with the beast is the first time I've done it in this manner.

My first few grows were mainlined.

And once comfortable I was able to kind of freehand my idea of what I wanted. I took my practice with the training techniques and put them into 1 plant.

So this technique I just developed myself you could say.


I am very much happy with it.
Just took a bit of patience.

well great work my friend....it will rock n roll for u ~

 

[rmoltis]

So after yesterday's double feeding I noticed today some of the plants yellowing increased.

So I think that's my sign that the soil has too much fertilizer build up. Possible causing it to go acidic.

So I flushed all the plants with a good volume of water. I will feed water only next feed . And the following feed I will use the feeding chart at a slightly reduced rate and see if that helps.

The only plant I didn't flush was the one in the micro tent. And that's just cause it's so lush, green and healthy.

 

[justiceman]

Are the amnesia haze, and mozeralla auto's as well? I like how well the accent plant plan worked out hahaha. All of them are stacking up well and the resin is sick.

Interesting so the beast under higher light conditions continues to yellow a bit. If she does continue to yellow after being watered at a reduced fertilizer rate then would it be safe to say she's probably hungry instead of locked out? She's looking great either way. Beasts can be so unruly!

 

[rmoltis]

Are the amnesia haze, and mozeralla auto's as well? I like how well the accent plant plan worked out hahaha. All of them are stacking up well and the resin is sick.

Interesting so the beast under higher light conditions continues to yellow a bit. If she does continue to yellow after being watered at a reduced fertilizer rate then would it be safe to say she's probably hungry instead of locked out? She's looking great either way. Beasts can be so unruly!

It's either too heavy feed.

Too light a feed.

An accumulation of nutrients in the soil causing lockout.

The ph of my feed after aeration is usually around neutral (7ph).

But if somehow the soil has drifted up or down too far it would have to be corrected.


I will say though that the lowest lumen per cu ft tent is still lush and green. And she was under identical feeding mixtures as all the rest.

I personally think the daily light intake of the plants/ light density of the tents somehow plays a role in all of this.

 

[justiceman]

I will say though that the lowest lumen per cu ft tent is still lush and green. And she was under identical feeding mixtures as all the rest.

I personally think the daily light intake of the plants/ light density of the tents somehow plays a role in all of this.

I agree completely. It's a really nice comparison to have the same strains under all the same conditions aside from the increase in lighting so it's only a matter of time until you figure out exactly what it is. That's the only factor that is different. It makes me think that nutrient requirements might be higher in that high intensity tent if it's not a pH issue from accumulation.

 

[rmoltis]

It makes me think that nutrient requirements might be higher in that high intensity tent if it's not a pH issue from accumulation.

It's a slippery slope trying to balance these things lol.

It's a long road to experiencing & understanding all these different things.

Once I can pinpoint what it is I can fix the issue over the long term.

Hopefully it is just as simple as a flush every so many weeks.

Are the amnesia haze, and mozeralla auto's as well? I like how well the accent plant plan worked out hahaha. All of them are stacking up well and the resin is sick.

Interesting so the beast under higher light conditions continues to yellow a bit. If she does continue to yellow after being watered at a reduced fertilizer rate then would it be safe to say she's probably hungry instead of locked out? She's looking great either way. Beasts can be so unruly!

Only 1 of the 3 accent plants is an auto.

And that was an accident.
I didn't mean to plant an auto. I just didn't read the seed bag fully lol.


But yeah the accent plants basically take advantage of open real estate above the canopy. Without blocking the main light reaching the tops on the beast.

So even if those 3 little plants don't put on massive weight. I'll still be happy cause it's extra weight I wouldn't have had.

I just can't believe my strategy worked. I thought for sure they'd become too shaded under the beast and die. But they pushed hard and earned their place above the canopy.

 

[rmoltis]

Some random snaps of the beast after the hps shut off.

Man the frost on the developing buds is great!

I haven't posted the mutant/runt in a bit. So here's an update.

She has started growing and as soon as she is ready I will transplant her into a bigger pot. She is still in a 1 gallon.

Since she is the only plant not in flower (aside from the beast clone).
It looks as if for now she is poised to take the title of "Beast".

By the time all the plants have finished flowering. She will have been trained a decent amount. And will assume veg under the mh immediately as soon as it becomes available.

Why would I flower a mutant/runt? Why not? For all I know it could turn out amazing. Given some time and lst to develop she could be great

 

[Coronel]

This post is directed @jumpincactus .

We had a discussion about ph'ing nutes before application.

He says he likes to check and adjust before applying nutes to ensure it is proper everytime.

Being organic I believe I can aerate my brews, and not check them for days and when I add it's perfect each time. And if bubbling brings it close to neutral (7ph). The soil has the capacity to buffer it down, but not up.

So I mixed a new gallon batch of nutes last night. Added it to an existing .25gallons left. This allowed me to not need microbes added. The old ones will re populate the nutrient batch. Things added that were non traditional fertilizers (apple cider vinegar, aspirin, watermelon juice).

Today this morning after some bubbling I checked the ph via drops (they are 2nd most accurate right behind a ph pen). I have a tds&ph pen both brand new in box. I just haven't had the need to set them up, calibrate them, buy containers so they can sit in calibration fluid etc.

So here is a picture result of the ph drops analysis.
View attachment 615730
I left just a sliver of the ph6.0 yellow color in the picture for comparison.

I'm not saying what I'm doing is the right way. It just works for me. And I wanted a little bit of proof to show that I'm not just wingin it lol.

They always respond well to the feed and it makes my job a whole lot easier. I just mix a day or 2 in advance so it can bubble. I noticed adding it to an existing batch speeds up the ph rise from 4 to 6.5-7. For those who don't know earth juice lineup is very acidic (in the 4ph range). So it takes either a lot of bubbling or a lot of ph up to adjust. Why add more chemicals when you can just dissolve some more oxygen into it.

You are doing a lot of things right Bro! :D

Just a note: the pH drops dont play nice with nutrient colored liquids, i had a friend who was hydro, he was using the drops at the beggining and was killing his plants, he borrowed a pH pen and discovered that the drops were telling him pH 5.5 - 6 (nice for hydro) and in reality it was 4.5 according to the pen, he asked me and well how can you trust drops or pens you don't know so i suggested we hunt for at least 2 other pH pens and compare and well the conclusion was that the drops were telling lies because the color change was a little masked by the color in his solution and was giving a misreading.

Forget the drops unless it is clear liquids, also forget the two electrode chinese pH meters and humidity and light, go to aliexpress and order some spare pH pens (i just got one for 5$ and free-shipping, i ordered it on the 19th of january and arrived yesterday)

PEace

 

[rmoltis]

You are doing a lot of things right Bro! :D

Just a note: the pH drops dont play nice with nutrient colored liquids, i had a friend who was hydro, he was using the drops at the beggining and was killing his plants, he borrowed a pH pen and discovered that the drops were telling him pH 5.5 - 6 (nice for hydro) and in reality it was 4.5 according to the pen, he asked me and well how can you trust drops or pens you don't know so i suggested we hunt for at least 2 other pH pens and compare and well the conclusion was that the drops were telling lies because the color change was a little masked by the color in his solution and was giving a misreading.

Forget the drops unless it is clear liquids, also forget the two electrode chinese pH meters and humidity and light, go to aliexpress and order some spare pH pens (i just got one for 5$ and free-shipping, i ordered it on the 19th of january and arrived yesterday)

PEace

It definitely can be tough deciphering the color of the solution I agree.

Pens are also tricky. They must be stored in calibration fluid once opened and after every use.

And if not calibrated frequently can be quite off.

I've already got tds & ppm pens. They are listed on page 2 of this thread.

https://www.thcfarmer.com/community/threads/bag-seed-hunting.78896/page-2

 

[justiceman]

The runt attaining the title of "beast"! That's now a title that holds some serious weight. Hell ya! What kind of smells is the beast giving off? I think it's tent number 3 hahaha. I like the multiple tents.

Good pH pen practices man gotta keep it stored right. I was lucky enough to trade my friend some flowers for his bluelab combo meter a while back. It stays calibrated for so long I love it.

 

[mandalaman]

Looking marvelous :)

 

[rmoltis]

Next batch of oil.

I'm using my top shelf from last harvest. The SDXQ #2.

12.94g input

Time to say goodbye to these beautiful tops.

Tops have been murdered

After coffee filter filtration

Start of purge.

Middle of purge

End of purge.

Final yield to be determined.
I must consolidate it now after it cools. Smells delicious.

 

[justiceman]

That was a nice little tutorial.

 

[rmoltis]

Final results

12.94g input. 3.66g return.
%28.28 yield!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I gotta say that is an amazing yield in my opinion!

Looks dark in pics but has a beautiful amber color. You can see it in the craters.

Gotta say this batch looks and smells delicious!

 

[Coronel]

It definitely can be tough deciphering the color of the solution I agree.

Pens are also tricky. They must be stored in calibration fluid once opened and after every use.

And if not calibrated frequently can be quite off.

I've already got tds & ppm pens. They are listed on page 2 of this thread.

https://www.thcfarmer.com/community/threads/bag-seed-hunting.78896/page-2

I read that you had them, and understood you did not want to use them as it is a "hassle"to store and calibrate and you dont want to waste it.
This is because you paid the high price for it.
See here: Ali-Express-Ph-PEN 4.66$ free shipping badly stored should last you about 6months - 1 year if rinsed with abundant neutral water after use.

Whatever remains in the probe keeps it "wet" if you put the cap straight away.

Calibration fluids: the pens really only require 1 point calibration, for that you can check with your drops the ph of some white vinegar (which is commonly sold at 7% concentration in any food store and usually is pHed 2.6 (but confirm with the drops)

For long term storage take 20ml of tap water, add 1 drop of withe vinegar and put it in the cap.
Empty the cap without shaking it so some drops remain in the cap and put the cap back.

There are 2 or 3 types of pH probes and the ones in the pH pens only need this.

I am only in page 24 or 25 of this post so i don't know if you are adding molasses and stuff to feed the microbes during aeration of nutes, I find that the molasses shoot the pH way too high (8 or more) and also they darken the solution so the drops become useless.

I just want to apport what little i know since you are sharing so much.

BTW I hit yesterday some plants with your Acetyl-salicisi--- (Vinegar and aspirin) recipe, 3 clones that i'm saving for a friend who got his tent invaded with gnats and spider mites (those plants were baaad... i have cleaned and stabilized them with 2 of them showing vibrant new grow and 1 still fighting the root damage.

Also hit 3 little sprouts (1 runt amongst them) So i can see from 2 relatively healthy plants the response and form one sickly plant. Also 2 vibrant seedlings (pair of cotiledons + pair of leaves 7 days old) and 1 runty seedling (first tap root to appear, last one to breach ground as you call it :D )

I hit them yesterday night, i can't really say they are different this morning, but i hit them again just in case.

Will share once i see any change

 

[rmoltis]

I read that you had them, and understood you did not want to use them as it is a "hassle"to store and calibrate and you dont want to waste it.
This is because you paid the high price for it.
See here: Ali-Express-Ph-PEN 4.66$ free shipping badly stored should last you about 6months - 1 year if rinsed with abundant neutral water after use.

Whatever remains in the probe keeps it "wet" if you put the cap straight away.

Calibration fluids: the pens really only require 1 point calibration, for that you can check with your drops the ph of some white vinegar (which is commonly sold at 7% concentration in any food store and usually is pHed 2.6 (but confirm with the drops)

For long term storage take 20ml of tap water, add 1 drop of withe vinegar and put it in the cap.
Empty the cap without shaking it so some drops remain in the cap and put the cap back.

There are 2 or 3 types of pH probes and the ones in the pH pens only need this.

I am only in page 24 or 25 of this post so i don't know if you are adding molasses and stuff to feed the microbes during aeration of nutes, I find that the molasses shoot the pH way too high (8 or more) and also they darken the solution so the drops become useless.

Yes I do add molasses, makes it tricky to see sometimes.

I may switch to using my pens.
On the next round.
Just need to find a nice jar to store the pen & solution in.

I am definitely still learning.
And every grow under my belt I seem to understand a little more and more.

Always open for opinions and input.

 

[Coronel]

Just need to find a nice jar to store the pen & solution in.

You dont and should not :D if your pen has a cap i mean.

Also solutions degrade and change in storage, always use fresh solutions (1L vinegar takes you a long way)

Whatever remains in the probe keeps it "wet" if you put the cap straight away.

For long term storage take 20ml of tap water, add 1 drop of withe vinegar and put it in the cap.
Empty the cap without shaking it so some drops remain in the cap and put the cap back.

Ahh the learning curve... I have been growing decorative plants, for years, and food produce in an organic way (I have a little indoor garden and 3 farms of friends i give a hand) the amount of shit one learns is enormous and yet is tiny compared with what is left to learn.

What i usually do is i try something and if i see it works try to understand the chemistry and physics behind it so it can be reproduced or adapted to a different crop.

Also we practice the "frugal gardener" way, in which we avoid buying branded products by generating them ourselves, it helps i have worked in water treatment plants and have good understanding of basic chemistry.

Especially where i live if something is related to gardens it costs 20 times more (I.E: Construction perlite = 100liters> 8$ / Garden perlite (Which is the same) = 6 liters > 20$)

Another example; The pH pen i sent you the link, i saw it in a hydrostore selling for 100$.

I am yet to grow one of those ladies from seed to flower, but here is and unfriendly place for that, so I limit myself to help friends who do, but this journal is giving me a lot of motivation for it.

I started using mainlining in my chinese pepper crops and it works perfectly to shape the plants and maximize the fruit setting, now we are down to shape them to maximize the space in the greenhouses.

The beauty of this is that there is soo much info about weed and bonsay on the net and that plants in general share many features and responses that what one learns here can serve to food crop purposes or decorative plant shaping and vibrance.

 

[incogneato]

Next batch of oil.

I'm using my top shelf from last harvest. The SDXQ #2.

View attachment 667175 View attachment 667176 View attachment 667177

12.94g input
View attachment 667178

Time to say goodbye to these beautiful tops.View attachment 667179

Tops have been murdered
View attachment 667184


After coffee filter filtration
View attachment 667180
Start of purge.
View attachment 667181

Middle of purgeView attachment 667182

End of purge.View attachment 667183

Final yield to be determined.
I must consolidate it now after it cools. Smells delicious.

Damn those are some top shelf lookin buds brotha!

 

[rmoltis]

Damn those are some top shelf lookin buds brotha!

With a %28.28 oil extraction return. Top shelf is a title that fits imo :cool:

I just felt bad murdering them.
They were so good looking :crying2:

 

[rmoltis]

Time to,

Grab-a-dab-o-goo!!