Amatfumusviriditas
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Essentially the same on my end, always looking to “second opinion” past info, especially when new sources seem knowledgeable and reasonable. Amazing all the superstition and conflicting opinions people have on growing. I appreciate everyone’s time, thanks.Here is what I do and have been successful.
Si, mix. 5-12-26/epsom, mix until dissolved. Calnit, mixed till dissolved. Ph. (If microbes are added, I do it AFTER ph’ing) ->
My gram scale came in. I have to say, it’s awful difficult to get these measurements on a scale.Use the gram scale. Calcium nitrate can vary greatly by the size of the prill.
I messaged the folks at growganiva that make Kelp it Real and they confirmed that they source from Ferti-organic. So if you just need a smaller amount like 8 or 16 ounce you can get Ferti-organic on Amazon.Technaflora soluble seaweed extract or Ferti-Organic soluble kelp.
So only add additional P at week 6 & only week 6 ? Bill ? & the K bump when does that start week 6 ? Or you mean back off P then bump up K week 6 ahaJack's has a healthy amount of Phosphorus start to finish. I'm not a fan of high P as excess needs to be simply washed out or it can make flowers burn black. Based on tissue samples, try it just in week 6 of flower with an 8-9 week cycle. The timing on the K bump works as well. Let me know how it affects your yield and flower quality.
Mr. Fulvic is totally soluble with drip emitters. Just make sure your pH stays at 5.5 and doesn't drift up.
I assume you mean a silicate product derived from potassium silicate, which isn’t readily available to plants. There’s no point in using both and I’d argue against using because it adds K that you may not have accounted for.Should I also be using regular Silica along with my Grow Genius Monosolisic Acid?
Wasn't sure if it was a direct replacement, or a compliment to it. I haven't seen the greatest results using Grow Genius, so I was hoping adding regular silica would help start to bulk it up. I've got stems that are just pencil thin after almost 3 months.
And when using Rid-X for DWC, how much should I use per gallon?
I’ve been using MSU 19-4-23 all in one well water. They have a MSU 13-3-15 for RO/soft water formula that works great too. Comes out to about .02cents /gallonI love fertilizer. I work with big grows down to friends that have a single 400w light. I recommend the same thing to each and every one of them. It is used start to finish, so there's no following confusing feed schedules. A buddy of mine started calling this "The Recipe" because it is cheap, simple and gives some amazing quality flower.
It consists of:
1) Silica- I always recommend soluble silica like PowerSi or Grow Genius. If you are in a pinch, you can use potassium silicate, but you have to keep an eye on the pH.
2) Jacks Classic Hydro, Calcium Nitrate and epsom salt- This is your base fertilizer. It is 3 grams Jack's, 2 grams calcium nitrate, 1 gram epsom salt per gallon
3) Fulvic Acid- This helps prevent pH problems and plant stress and gives organic taste and smell. There's lots of watered down additives out there, but I recommend Mr. Fulvic because it is a concentrate and has fulvic, amino and organic acids.
The quality and yields are phenomenal. Depending on what quantities you buy, it can be $0.06-$0.10/gallon.
View attachment 1129079
I love fertilizer. I work with big grows down to friends that have a single 400w light. I recommend the same thing to each and every one of them. It is used start to finish, so there's no following confusing feed schedules. A buddy of mine started calling this "The Recipe" because it is cheap, simple and gives some amazing quality flower.
It consists of:
1) Silica- I always recommend soluble silica like PowerSi or Grow Genius. If you are in a pinch, you can use potassium silicate, but you have to keep an eye on the pH.
2) Jacks Classic Hydro, Calcium Nitrate and epsom salt- This is your base fertilizer. It is 3 grams Jack's, 2 grams calcium nitrate, 1 gram epsom salt per gallon
3) Fulvic Acid- This helps prevent pH problems and plant stress and gives organic taste and smell. There's lots of watered down additives out there, but I recommend Mr. Fulvic because it is a concentrate and has fulvic, amino and organic acids.
The quality and yields are phenomenal. Depending on what quantities you buy, it can be $0.06-$0.10/gallon.
View attachment 1129079
Ok great info, thank you! I didn't realize Si needed to be redosed after a few days in hydro. I try to do weekly water changes, but sometimes that extends out to 10 days right now. I'll try to redose it once or twice in-between days 4-10I assume you mean a silicate product derived from potassium silicate, which isn’t readily available to plants. There’s no point in using both and I’d argue against using because it adds K that you may not have accounted for.
Grow genius provides immediately available Si to the plants. It does break down after being added to water tho. After about 3 days it’s getting weak and after a week in a res it’s not useful.
Awesome thread!Grotek Gro-Silic is a soluble silica that is cheaper than Stout MSA.
Mr. Fulvic is 1ml/gallon intermittent feed or use as a standalone foliar. It is 0.5ml/gallon constant feed or foliar in conjunction with other inputs.
I do silica/base ferts/fulvic all the way through veg to flower. Kelp/Ca at flip for structure/vigor. Homemade Hammerhead week 6 of flower based on tissue samples. You can tweak it however you would like, this just keeps it simple.
No no... not poison in it... poison is in the dosage. Meaning make absolutely sure you ha e someone to give you the dose they have used successfully before adding.
Personally I think there are other better alternatives that are just as cheap or close is all that do not contain fragrances or dyes and have well documented success.
I know this man knows his stuff so if he says he has used it and been successful then I do not doubt him. Personally that product is not for me as there are others I feel more well suited.
Even thier site says do not use on grass or plants so idk.
If you are cheap you can quickly, easily and cheaply make enzymes from malted barley. It must be base malt 2 or 6 row. Do not use any specialty like 20L, crystal malt, roasted, etc.OK. Thanks. I thought I was going crazy when I ran into you asking about that and had only read this thread regarding "The Recipe".
I have been looking for an alternative to the expensive stuff I have been using and this thread GREATLY attracted my attention due to the cost efficiency. But your RidX stuff was making me doubt my choice to invest in a new line of nutrients because I couldn't imagine a scenario where I would be putting the same stuff I add to my septic to keep it clear of roots into my hydro or soil grow in order to somehow stimulate the roots...
Maybe if that particular plant was a masochist?
Anyway, there it is. Sorry dude. I was a little more exhuberant than I should have been. Still sounds like craziness to me, even after reading that linked thread. Thanks for the link, dude.
Hey of the shoe fits bro. Guilty as charged. I'm going to clean this up. It's one of the best nute threads imo and I agree should be kept on topic.Besides that, it has zero to do with "The Recipe"...go pm Bill if you need your question answered...all you've done here is derail a quality thread...go grow some damn weed without all the shit!
Sorry @Aquaman I didn't mean to quote your message :)
No, bump up K week 5-6 with something like homemade hammerhead. Small amounts of P help micro absorbtion. Residual P in cannabis from over application leads to a lower quality product.So only add additional P at week 6 & only week 6 ? Bill ? & the K bump when does that start week 6
Should I also be using regular Silica along with my Grow Genius Monosolisic Acid? And when using Rid-X for DWC, how much should I use per gallon?
Capulators formula on here for jacks321 in DTW and it’s basically jacks at 1/2 strength from the maximum.
Do you use kelp during veg? Kelp/ ca? Does the amount of ca go up during flower or is that when ca starts? Should I mix everything at once or should I follow a mixing order? I’ve been doing si first and no specific order for the rest
Calcium is rarely strain dependent. Pure sativas don't like a heavy EC. If you have a Kush for example that is a heavy feeder, just raise your base fertilizer a bit. Cal-Mag is a band-aid to sell you more stuff at the hydro store.wouldn’t the calcium issues be strain dependent? I mean I burned 2 out of 3 plants feeding the same the whole time. But it is my first run with jacks. So I’m tweaking my formula.
when do you guys start lowering intake during flower? Started about 5 weeks into flower
Gotcha. I do not use cal-mag since jacks has them both in there, it’s a matter of knowing what, how and when to adjust I need to learn more about firsthand to get it down a little better. I was just going to use Capulators formula as a base and adjust from there. Full strength was great till I got to flower then it started getting funky. On me. All still learningCalcium is rarely strain dependent. Pure sativas don't like a heavy EC. If you have a Kush for example that is a heavy feeder, just raise your base fertilizer a bit. Cal-Mag is a band-aid to sell you more stuff at the hydro store.
If your plants are burning, always water until 10-25% runoff. Test your pH going into the feed and coming out to diagnose any problems.
Length of flush depends on the CEC of your growing medium. You can flush rockwool for a couple irrigations and get a nice fade. Coco, maybe a week and a half or two. Heavily amended soil gives a nice fade when the plant is done.
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