Ballin' On a Budget- THE RECIPE

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Frankster

Frankster

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What I would do is increase the light by 20% or so and simultaneously decrease food by about the same, the day you flip., then slowly increase light and food to max by the end of stretch.
Yea, I do something really similar, I maintain my same exact (veg) ppm formula going into flower, but increase (light) intensity going in, and though that phase, trying to supercharge it, I'm really hyper focused on budding setting at that point.. It's a really critical phase of development to get it right. Usually bumping up my light intensity as I go along, then somewhere around day 10-14, I start ramping up Phosphate. Always keeping some mag/sulfate foliar handy during the interim.

That first week or two after flip is where where inexperience can really nail you; the plants can get N heavy, if you don't watch out. Or mag/sulfur/calcium start getting out of line, cause of changing needs. It's the phase where leaf color, leaf notching, position, praying really is telling us a whole lot.
 
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radmobile

radmobile

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What’s the pH in and out? And what’s the mixing order and process?
Always 6.6 in, out is somewhere between 6.4-6.7
Mixing order:
Jacks hydro+Epsom (mix) then add Calnit (mix) then ph to 6.6
 
radmobile

radmobile

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Yea, I do something really similar, I maintain my same exact (veg) ppm formula going into flower, but increase (light) intensity going in, and though that phase, trying to supercharge it, I'm really hyper focused on budding setting at that point.. It's a really critical phase of development to get it right. Usually bumping up my light intensity as I go along, then somewhere around day 10-14, I start ramping up Phosphate. Always keeping some mag/sulfate foliar handy during the interim.

That first week or two after flip is where where inexperience can really nail you; the plants can get N heavy, if you don't watch out. Or mag/sulfur/calcium start getting out of line, cause of changing needs. It's the phase where leaf color, leaf notching, position, praying really is telling us a whole lot.
Agreed. It is certainly a lack of experience. Have to start somewhere though
 
PizzaBob

PizzaBob

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Always 6.6 in, out is somewhere between 6.4-6.7
Mixing order:
Jacks hydro+Epsom (mix) then add Calnit (mix) then ph to 6.6
You ever just try promix or coco? Maybe the Foxfarm has too much Ca in it. And/or a K def - the K is easily washed out if the soil if leached. Too much Ca also locks K and those leaves look sorta like k deficiency. Personally I can’t use soil because I need full control.
 
BillFarthing

BillFarthing

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Jacks hydro+Epsom (mix) then add Calnit (mix) then ph to 6.6
This pH would certainly work in soil buffered with lime. In coco or rockwool, you are going to want to pull that pH down to 5.5-6.0 knowing that it is going to drift up as your medium dries down.

You ever just try promix or coco? Maybe the Foxfarm has too much Ca in it. And/or a K def - the K is easily washed out if the soil if leached. Too much Ca also locks K and those leaves look sorta like k deficiency. Personally I can’t use soil because I need full control.
I hit my best yields with hand watered PromixCC. Now I'm cheap and just use 5kg coco blocks with 25-30% rice hulls by volume. If I want a slower dry down, I'll add 10% castings or 1-3% vermiculite.
 
radmobile

radmobile

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This pH would certainly work in soil buffered with lime. In coco or rockwool, you are going to want to pull that pH down to 5.5-6.0 knowing that it is going to drift up as your medium dries down.


I hit my best yields with hand watered PromixCC. Now I'm cheap and just use 5kg coco blocks with 25-30% rice hulls by volume. If I want a slower dry down, I'll add 10% castings or 1-3% vermiculite.
Bill - what are you using? Are you hydro? Would you recommend Promix over a prefelted soil like FoxFarms? I’m at a loss here. I feel like all I do is flush my plants. Any time I feed them, they just burn and die. It’s very frustrating
 
Mrb53

Mrb53

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I did not expect this post to blow up. OK, let's answer some questions:



This will work with soil and soilless like coco. Strong oxidizers like Hypochlorous acid aren't compatible with fulvic acid. In that case, you would use it as a foliar in veg/transition and flush with it in lieu of plain water.
I know it is a while since you posted this but could you explain the Hypochlorous....like Athena cleanse.....I am unsure about why you added this unless it is for those who use Hypochlorous acids in their grows as a caution
 
Amatfumusviriditas

Amatfumusviriditas

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This pH would certainly work in soil buffered with lime. In coco or rockwool, you are going to want to pull that pH down to 5.5-6.0 knowing that it is going to drift up as your medium dries down.


I hit my best yields with hand watered PromixCC. Now I'm cheap and just use 5kg coco blocks with 25-30% rice hulls by volume. If I want a slower dry down, I'll add 10% castings or 1-3% vermiculite.
I’ve been considering the switch to pro mix/coco. My question is in regards to pre-washing(high salts)and pre-charging ( competes for Ca?) is this still necessary in today’s market and if so what do those familiar recommend?
A second question, more related to the recipe- I’ve seen many suggestions for addition of sugars and microbes and I notice none are recommended here. What is your opinion bill, or rather, why are they unnecessary here? I would venture to guess having something to do with salts as the nutrient source(?) but have heard recent info that microbes are still effective and useful with synthetic nutes?.
 
Anthem

Anthem

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I know it is a while since you posted this but could you explain the Hypochlorous....like Athena cleanse.....I am unsure about why you added this unless it is for those who use Hypochlorous acids in their grows as a caution
The acid is used to keep the water in the Rez sterile. No microbes and should stop bud root. It is the same active ingredient in UC Roots and some forms of pool shock
 
BillFarthing

BillFarthing

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Bill - what are you using? Are you hydro? Would you recommend Promix over a prefelted soil like FoxFarms? I’m at a loss here. I feel like all I do is flush my plants. Any time I feed them, they just burn and die. It’s very frustrating
Do you homework. Follow label directions. If it doesn't work, try something else until it does!
I know it is a while since you posted this but could you explain the Hypochlorous....like Athena cleanse.
It is used to sterilize the reservoir in hydroponics. It is incompatible with organics like fulvic and kelp. If you want to run organics inputs in hydro use Southern Ag Garden Friendly Fungicide. It's the super concentrated version of Hydroguard.

My question is in regards to pre-washing(high salts)and pre-charging ( competes for Ca?) is this still necessary in today’s market and if so what do those familiar recommend?
A second question, more related to the recipe- I’ve seen many suggestions for addition of sugars and microbes and I notice none are recommended here. What is your opinion bill, or rather, why are they unnecessary here? I would venture to guess having something to do with salts as the nutrient source(?) but have heard recent info that microbes are still effective and useful with synthetic nutes?.
Just run some nutrient solution through your expanded coco to be sure. If you feed to runoff with nutrient solution, it won't be an issue.
Sugars feed the good and bad bacteria. I'd rather avoid complications.
 
3 balls

3 balls

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Technaflora soluble seaweed extract or Ferti-Organic soluble kelp.
I found this while searching kelp to replace my current products. There should be a law against Advanced Nutrients pissing all over the environment with their packaging and shipping such diluted products, as good as B-52 may be. H&G's Algen Extract is a way more concentrated version which I currently use but so far, I've had good results every time I replace a bottled nutrient. Finally to my question, what are your thoughts on the RAW brand kelp? By my math it's way more economical than the products you mention but I've never been very good at math and it may be of garbage quality for all I know. Thanks
 
PizzaBob

PizzaBob

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I found this while searching kelp to replace my current products. There should be a law against Advanced Nutrients pissing all over the environment with their packaging and shipping such diluted products, as good as B-52 may be. H&G's Algen Extract is a way more concentrated version which I currently use but so far, I've had good results every time I replace a bottled nutrient. Finally to my question, what are your thoughts on the RAW brand kelp? By my math it's way more economical than the products you mention but I've never been very good at math and it may be of garbage quality for all I know. Thanks
How bigs your grow? I believe you can buy 50 pounds of the ferti-organic for around 300 hundred or so. That’s enough for like 45,000 gallons or buy kelp it real which is fert I-organic repackaged at 35 bucks for about a 900 gallons.
 
3 balls

3 balls

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How bigs your grow? I believe you can buy 50 pounds of the ferti-organic for around 300 hundred or so. That’s enough for like 45,000 gallons or buy kelp it real which is fert I-organic repackaged at 35 bucks for about a 900 gallons.
I dont really need 50 pounds. I had considered the Kelp it Real, and they dont give a dosage in grams, only 1/4 tsp per gallon direction. So then I looked at the question/answer section and found this:
Question:
How many gallons of water will the 8oz bag produce?
Answer:
8oz makes about 100 gallons
By Growganica Inc. SELLER on February 23, 2021
80-100 gallons
By Amazon Customer on February 19, 2021

So according to that info, the 1lb for $35 only gets me 200 gallons.
 
PizzaBob

PizzaBob

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43
I dont really need 50 pounds. I had considered the Kelp it Real, and they dont give a dosage in grams, only 1/4 tsp per gallon direction. So then I looked at the question/answer section and found this:
Question:
How many gallons of water will the 8oz bag produce?
Answer:
8oz makes about 100 gallons
By Growganica Inc. SELLER on February 23, 2021
80-100 gallons
By Amazon Customer on February 19, 2021

So according to that info, the 1lb for $35 only gets me 200 gallons.
That is not be from the seller. Because a 1/4 tsp weighs .7 grams. So 1 pound makes 642 gallons.
 
3 balls

3 balls

565
143
That is not be from the seller. Because a 1/4 tsp weighs .7 grams. So 1 pound makes 642 gallons.
It was copied and pasted right from Amazon as the sellers reply. I cant imagine why they would short change themselves. I'm not doubting you necessarily, I almost wonder if it absorbs moisture over time. Either way, I'm hoping you're right because I did end up ordering some. I'm convinced you're right about it being Ferti-organics stuff as their technical specs are identical. Thank you
 
PizzaBob

PizzaBob

143
43
It was copied and pasted right from Amazon as the sellers reply. I cant imagine why they would short change themselves. I'm not doubting you necessarily, I almost wonder if it absorbs moisture over time. Either way, I'm hoping you're right because I did end up ordering some. I'm convinced you're right about it being Ferti-organics stuff as their technical specs are identical. Thank you
The seller told me they buy bulk from ferti-organic and repackage. But yeah not sure why how they came up with those numbers. Too far apart to make sense. I haven’t really kept track of how many gallons I got out of my last bag. Just got a new one a bit ago. Need to get one of the big growers I know to buy 50 pounds and peel me off 5 at a good price.
 
F

farroutman2003

2
1
Are people using RO water or what water is "The Recipe" good for? I didn't see anyone really mention what waters they were using.

Thank you
 

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