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PharmHand
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Really..... hmmm. What ratios u like for early bloom? NPKCaMgS. Thanks again chief:)No, I've found that to be more of a calcium/nitrogen issue than anything else. I run my phosphorus the heaviest from week 2/3 in veg until the end of the stretch period in flower.
I run it all by feel really. My feedings are all predicated by how the plants are looking/behaving and my runoff numbers. I don't have set weekly numbers/dosages for anything and adjust on the fly. It helps that my Base A and B have all 16 primary, secondary and micros with the B being just magnesium, sulfur, phosphorus and potassium. My C is a 0-10-12 and D is a 1-3-14 so I have the ability to tune my feeding rather easily with very few moving parts. I typically cut my cal/mag around day 10 of flower and start bumping the B somewhat like an additive. With the C being so heavily concentrated it helps me fine tune my P/K ratios while letting me push mag and sulfur as hard as I wantReally..... hmmm. What ratios u like for early bloom? NPKCaMgS. Thanks again chief:)
I have a few good friends that were pretty influential in the Dutch culture over the years. One is here in the states now and really is one of the most talented and knowledgeable people I've ever had the pleasure of meeting
What ratio cal:mag u typically run after day 10? I like to let my coco dry down between waterings in early flower, seems to make for stronger rooting and earlier fatter nugs. But I do see what appears to be slight mag def when doing that, calcium if I take it too far. It completely goes away once I start keeping them a little wetter. I wonder if I’d benefit from some additional mag early-mid flower? Too much mag late seems to make for a hard ash, hotter cherry in a doob. When do you cut mag? And how long ya typically flush? ( if u do) Just pumping you for info haha sorry:DI run it all by feel really. My feedings are all predicated by how the plants are looking/behaving and my runoff numbers. I don't have set weekly numbers/dosages for anything and adjust on the fly. It helps that my Base A and B have all 16 primary, secondary and micros with the B being just magnesium, sulfur, phosphorus and potassium. My C is a 0-10-12 and D is a 1-3-14 so I have the ability to tune my feeding rather easily with very few moving parts. I typically cut my cal/mag around day 10 of flower and start bumping the B somewhat like an additive. With the C being so heavily concentrated it helps me fine tune my P/K ratios while letting me push mag and sulfur as hard as I want
The only calcium my plants see after week 2 is from my base A. In flower I feed 6 times a day to a targeted runoff of 18-22% daily. That "dry down" theory is detrimental to plant health as far as I'm concerned. The only time I played with something like that was in between week 6-7 to "trick" the plants that there was a drought and to produce whatever they could before it was too late. I only flush for 7 days, but increase my water output substantiallyWhat ratio cal:mag u typically run after day 10? I like to let my coco dry down between waterings in early flower, seems to make for stronger rooting and earlier fatter nugs. But I do see what appears to be slight mag def when doing that, calcium if I take it too far. It completely goes away once I start keeping them a little wetter. I wonder if I’d benefit from some additional mag early-mid flower? Too much mag late seems to make for a hard ash, hotter cherry in a doob. When do you cut mag? And how long ya typically flush? ( if u do) Just pumping you for info haha sorry:D
There’s definitely some evidence to support crop steering from generativeThe only calcium my plants see after week 2 is from my base A. In flower I feed 6 times a day to a targeted runoff of 18-22% daily. That "dry down" theory is detrimental to plant health as far as I'm concerned. The only time I played with something like that was in between week 6-7 to "trick" the plants that there was a drought and to produce whatever they could before it was too late. I only flush for 7 days, but increase my water output substantially
Yeah, we're real close with our Canadian approval. Another thing people overlook when promoting lateral shoot growth is increased phosphorus dosing. In my opinion a 0-50-30 Monopotassium Phosphate additive is better utilized in small doses early in propagation and more heavily in the back end of veg/flower transition followed by more emphasis on potassium, magnesium and sulfur as you get deeper into flower while cutting back a bit on the phosphorus to maximize oil production while losing out on plant material (flower) weight by pushing phosphorus early to produce more flowering nodes while stacking them more tightly. Obviously every strain has their limit, but with strong genetics you can really manipulate node spacing by stacking P/K
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I bought a Maxibright 315 CMD, with the Phillips lamp, within hours the difference is incredible.
This site advised me & they are spot on.
Energy efficiency is fab, silent nights, control of heat.
Very pleased with the product
What's the best nutes etc to use with coco can anyone give any suggestions please
And a few more girls in one gallon bags. I have been working with the one gallon for years and my larger pots and bags are all outside..
It's subjective and I don't bother with the bottles and the high prices, let alone anything labeled for Coco, instead of I have used every dry fertilizer available and I have zero loyalty to any one company. With that said, GH Maxi Bloom &Grow, Veg+Bloom, MegaCrop and Mendocino Hydro by Growmore to name a few. With a little gypsum applied by top dressing I have made just about any and all fertilizers coco compatible if there really is such a thing. Having been a hydro tech and store owner I have used just about anything else you can name..What's the best nutes etc to use with coco can anyone give any suggestions please
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