Best Brand of Digital Ballast?

[ookiimata]

I don't understand all the technicalities of how these digi ballasts work, but can someone who actually knows 100% and isn't just supposing answer: do the Select-A-Watts actually draw the selected wattage from the wall (say if I have a 400/600 and have it set to 400) or does it still draw the higher wattage and just burn off the extra power as heat? I don't want to be pulling 600W to power 400W. I would really appreciate an informed response to this. Thanks.

 

[crom]

I don't understand all the technicalities of how these digi ballasts work, but can someone who actually knows 100% and isn't just supposing answer: do the Select-A-Watts actually draw the selected wattage from the wall (say if I have a 400/600 and have it set to 400) or does it still draw the higher wattage and just burn off the extra power as heat? I don't want to be pulling 600W to power 400W. I would really appreciate an informed response to this. Thanks.

Good question ookiimata. I had this same thought. I want to run 600s for say veg then 1000 for bloom am I wasting electricity using the 1000 watt switchable? If this is the case, which I don't think it could be, this dial-a-watt is a bad idea. I would think that it takes electricity from the wall then converts it like a 600w ballast would and give you 600w power. This is a stupid question but do you need to put a 600 watt bulb in or does your 1000 "dim" to the "output" of a 600w? Making sense here? Sorry if I missed this in the previous pages as I skimmed.

Cheers,
Crom

 

[OldSchool]

Dimming does not save power consumption

Yes, U are not dimming the pwr to the ballast U are only dimming the bulb (just a bulb dimmer) 600watt ballast set at 400 U will still pull 600watts in pwr- Fact ! (probably 660watts) E-ballast never advertise in that U will save in pwr cumsumptions with this feature, it utliized pwr better, selecting lower wattage does not mean U are saving pwr being used.
Sorry to tell U that, but I also misread when they 1st came out, 1st time I plugged it in and went through it s setting, that when I realized Iam not saving money on the lower setting, its just a bulb dimmer, sorry!!
Still E-Ballast are great, money well invasted, dimm or no dimm.
Peace
U have a set ampe draw, depending on which voltage U are running 120/240 volts it does not give variable draw (ampes)for each setting, constantly same draw, hope that helps

 

[ookiimata]

So you're saying that's just how the dimming functions work, or that is also how the variable watt option with its own switch works as well? I assumed that was the way the dimming worked, but I'm still not sure about the select-a-watt feature.

crombien: I too figure that it must only draw the "set" wattage from the wall, or it would be incredibly stupid, but it seems like more and more, these companies are selling deceitful products, especially the newer (or at least less familiar to the consumer) technologies. I can just imagine checking my power meter, seeing that it's drawing a constant full wattage no matter what setting I have on, then me calling the company and them trying to explain that they never claimed it drew less watts from the wall, just that it delivered less watts to the bulb. Maybe I'm just being overly skeptical. But if it doesn't save me X amount of watts by switching to the lower mode, I'll save myself $150 dollars and pick up the Digital Greenhouse 600W instead.

Pretty sure you have to have separate bulbs to swap out when you change the wattage. I think I've read that you do. Otherwise it would be like running a 1000W bulb in a 600W mag ballast. At least, that's if it's actually controlling the watt pull from the wall and not just dimming.

 

[ookiimata]

From the product description:

This state-of-the-art ballast is manufactured to provide today’s serious grower with maximum flexibility & performance. The Galaxy™ Select-a-Watt™ is different than any other “dimmable” electronic ballast on the market. The Galaxy™ brand name carries a strong reputation of reliability and performance. There are three ways to use the Select-a-Watt™ feature:

• It will properly drive a 400, 600 or 1000 watt lamp to ANSI specifications. For example: Set the switch to 400 watts, insert a 400 watt lamp into your socket and the ballast will operate the 400 watt lamp. The ballast will similarly operate 600 or 1000 watt lamps.

• The second option for this ballast is dimming a 1000 watt lamp. Adjust the switch to 400 or 600 watts and the ballast will dim the 1000 watt lamp by 40 or 60%.

• The Turbo Charge feature will increase the output of a 1000 watt lamp (only) by approximately 10%. You will achieve peak performance, but this may decrease your lamp life.

Lamps are only dimmable on wattages lower than the specified lamp wattage. A 1000 watt lamp can be dimmed down to 600 watt or 400 watt. A 600 watt lamp can be dimmed down to 400 watt, but cannot be over-driven to 1000 watts.

So I guess it can run a 1000W bulb at whatever lower wattage. I still don't see anything in there that reassures me it's pulling less watts from the wall instead of dimming. Just the opposite, actually. Seems to suggest it's just an advanced dimmer.

 

[OldSchool]

Yes, its "only" a advance high votlage bulb dimmer, not a "step down"e- ballast . There should be plenty resourse on these forums somewhere for these answer, U can also call-email the manufactor, ask hydro shops. The Galaxy promo paragraph 2 & 3 may lead U to believe it comsumes less pwr on lower settings,doesn't really say that.. U can use a different bulb,let say my 600Mh, I need to turn it down to the 60%=600watt on my 1000 lumatek, match the bulb to ur dimming setting, or I can leave my 1000 op red bulb and dimming to those setting, I never heard U couldn't,that was whole purpose to this design.

peace

 

[OldSchool]

Micro Processor or CPU

I thought I would bring this up while thinking of it, when I was looking into e-ballast I noticed that NexGen ballast uses a CPU as to Lumatek some others a Micro Processor. My understanding the nexgen cpu constanly is monitioring the condition of the bulb and makes any adjustments to give constant highest output possable. Lumateks new generation micro Processor vs the older ones, basically suppose to do the same as a cpu.I think the cpu-ed ballast would be alittle better. It was a big tose up between Lumatek or Nexgen, reason I settlled for lumatek, I new hydro store open, I was thier 1st cumstomer so they gave me a pkg deal with a Ushio opt red bulb and threw in the Hydofarm light cord adapter, and of course I liked the dimming option (I didn't read it throughly as I should have) and no fans like nexgen, although the fan it looks pretty simple to replace if U had too. Iam happy with my lumatek. I thought I would pass this by to U-folks. If these issues are important to U,its certainly worth checking them out.

Peace

 

[ookiimata]

Thanks for all the info, Oldschool. That's very interesting about the Next Gens using CPUs. Much appreciated, man.

 

[crom]

I just want to make a good decision on my next ballast purchase. I don't see a real need for a dimmer for me if it's not saving money. I would rather just use the same watt/bulb/ballast and maybe just raise it higher if need be. I just see the 1000 as overkill for say a 5x5 tent in veg. Maybe not though. I don't know I guess I just wanted to know if I would save any electricity/money going with the dimmable ballasts. Thanks for all the info guys/gals!

 

[Valid215]

I don't see a real need for a dimmer for me if it's not saving money. I would rather just use the same watt/bulb/ballast and maybe just raise it higher if need be. I just see the 1000 as overkill for say a 5x5 tent in veg.

Just to put it in another perspective, on a hot day, your plants will be MORE stressed from heat, than if you dimmed your bulb(s) and simulated a cloudy day to keep temps normal.

IMO it's not if you NEED dimming functions, but can/will it be useful/helpful in the future.

 

[crom]

I believe that it is a great idea, it just needs to be perfected and the technology needs to be tweaked. I don't think that it's a 'bad' idea, just could use a bit of work. I do think that the dim function will be awesome if they could make it 'pull' and 'push' the selected wattage. Hell they could even make a universal ballast smart enough to recognize the bulb wattage and only use that much power. I wouldn't mind paying for a different wattage bulb to get say 600w from a universal ballast, or a 1000w bulb. Switching between MH and HPS is key as well. Not sure why you would still build non-switchable ballasts, for horticulture that is? Cheaper is my only thought. Eh they'll figure it out. Who knows maybe the LED thing will truely catch on. I kinda see the LED revolution like 'laser disc'. It was a good idea then they came up with DVDs. Just needs some tweaking. Anyway...

Cheers,
Crom

 

[specialeddy]

I’m just getting started, but I’m pretty sure I’ll be going with a 600W Phantom Digital Ballast from Hydrofarm. Everything I’ve read so far is very positive, and it has the dimming feature as well.

 

[ookiimata]

Mike from Mystery Science Theater had a funny column about laserdiscs in this month's Home Theater mag. Off topic...just rare to hear someone talk about laserdiscs twice in a matter of weeks.

 

[InvisibleM]

Yes, U are not dimming the pwr to the ballast U are only dimming the bulb (just a bulb dimmer) 600watt ballast set at 400 U will still pull 600watts in pwr- Fact ! (probably 660watts) E-ballast never advertise in that U will save in pwr cumsumptions with this feature, it utliized pwr better, selecting lower wattage does not mean U are saving pwr being used.
Sorry to tell U that, but I also misread when they 1st came out, 1st time I plugged it in and went through it s setting, that when I realized Iam not saving money on the lower setting, its just a bulb dimmer, sorry!!
Still E-Ballast are great, money well invasted, dimm or no dimm.
Peace
U have a set ampe draw, depending on which voltage U are running 120/240 volts it does not give variable draw (ampes)for each setting, constantly same draw, hope that helps

I don't believe you are correct...

On my Quantum it says 100% 75% or 50% power and a 99.9 % power factor. It would make no sense to waste 50% of the power at 50% setting. The ballast would over heat, same with any other ballast. Even on dimmers for interior house lighting you are not just wasting the energy or the dimmer would overheat.... no you are cutting the power consumption.

From an add -
_________________

One of the major factors that contributes to the purchase of digital lighting, is the increased power savings. The Quantum Series ballast is the only ballast on the market to offer you a dimming switch that enables you to run your ballast at the strength YOU desire. This not only makes it easier to harden off young plants just being introduced to HID lighting, but also allows you to control your footprint and power usage as well. You can increase the power to your ballast as your garden grows and demands more light, and save yourself a substantial amount of money on your power bill over the length of your crop cycle.

* Run at 100%, 75% or 50% power
* Strike both Metal Halide and High Pressure Sodium Bulbs
* Accepts 120v or 240v (Both cords included) !
* Allows 50 Hertz to 60 Hertz
* Runs 15% cooler than other digital ballasts on the market
* Has a Power Factor of 99.9%
* The most stable output frequency of any ballast
* Higher lumen output than magnetic ballasts
* Light weight and care free
* 3 year no hassle warranty!

 

[InvisibleM]

Just to put it in another perspective, on a hot day, your plants will be MORE stressed from heat, than if you dimmed your bulb(s) and simulated a cloudy day to keep temps normal.

IMO it's not if you NEED dimming functions, but can/will it be useful/helpful in the future.

Exactly, and also when plants are small they just don't need as much light or you're not ready for them to start growing real fast yet.

 

[darkmatter]

i smoke weed

 

[InvisibleM]

Good question ookiimata. I had this same thought. I want to run 600s for say veg then 1000 for bloom am I wasting electricity using the 1000 watt switchable? If this is the case, which I don't think it could be, this dial-a-watt is a bad idea. I would think that it takes electricity from the wall then converts it like a 600w ballast would and give you 600w power. This is a stupid question but do you need to put a 600 watt bulb in or does your 1000 "dim" to the "output" of a 600w? Making sense here? Sorry if I missed this in the previous pages as I skimmed.

Cheers,
Crom

On a 1000 watt ballast what you do is use a 1000 watt bulb (lamp) and then just dim it as needed, you don't change the bulb. I have a 1000 watt Quantum and also a Lumatek. I think the Quantum is better because it has an internal fan. They also sell a 1100 watt bulb for use with Lumateks 1100 watt setting on ebay. Also I don't switch to HPS for flowering. I did a test many years ago and the HPS didn't produce any more than the halide bulb and since I hate looking at a yellow light I only use halides.

 

[InvisibleM]

From the product description:



So I guess it can run a 1000W bulb at whatever lower wattage. I still don't see anything in there that reassures me it's pulling less watts from the wall instead of dimming. Just the opposite, actually. Seems to suggest it's just an advanced dimmer.

If you go to an electronics forum or look at how dimmers for ac power work you will see that they cut back on power consumption. If they didn't the dimmer would get hot as the light was dimmed, the dimmers stay cool... :cool0041:

 

[darkmatter]

im brainwashed on hps but my shamefull eyes would like to know that 1000 and thousand are about the same i know its been up one side and down the other ill keep it mind dig

 

[Quitters]

a friend that uses Quantums showed me a test with one of his 1k's running thru a watt meter @ 50%, 75% & 100% power and the actual power usage was real close to the seleted settings respectfully :coffee