best qb light setup for 4x8 i can order right now.

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redshift75

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As the title says.

so im looking at the lm1301h and lm1301b. Seems the H is marketed to Horticulture but i read things that say the H is better?

Lm1301b

This product is no longer available.

This product is no longer available.
www.alibaba.com

LM1301h

This product is no longer available.

This product is no longer available.
www.alibaba.com

Im guessing i need 6 or 8 for a 4x8 So i can run them dimmed, is there a better QB board? I want the best so i can hit this 2.5gpw+ every grow and never have a grow fail and the other benefits that come with having the best lights. I dont want to outfit the new tent with anything less than the best. is there anything i should add supplemental? /s

the downside to the switch is..
It will add quite a bit over the current amount of juice to my E bill every month. But the Benefits to switching to QB guarantee i will eventually see the ROI over their lifetime to justify the switch/operating cost.
if i factor 90 days at 18/6 and 90 days at 12/12 for a guesstimate on my usage.
my curent setup operating cost + light investment over 5 years is roughly $1,373.85
this setup puts me at $5,934.1‬ cost over 5 years with initial investment. for a total 332.192% increase operating cost.
so if i go from 1gpw to 2.5gpw id be at about 150% increase So i need about 3gpw increase roughly. But if i used 6 or 8 and only used around 864watts of the total that puts me right around 159.286% increase. which puts it in the doable range to be a successful investment hence the switch. (assuming i wrote it all down correct and transferred it over correctly to the forum).


in the end im going to do an experiment on efficiency to see if my switch will be worth wild. Since i have 2 identical tent setups i can easily switch out the lights and do a comparison. See if the efficiency i need can be offset entirely. since i pay about $0.23-$0.32 per KWh between peak and off peak and seasonal with my average being about $0.26~.

i may be off on my calculation for the boards required or the wattage used by the 240w QB288 setups. If so feel free to correct me and any tips on which set to get + how many etc feel free to let me know. Im interested to see how one can approach this switch in the most efficient fashion given my unique circumstances which can hopefully offset the ROI to at least break even or slightly better.
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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Still upset about my post? Look dude I'm not saying you need to have qbs. What I'm saying is umols are directly linked to yield given the environment is ideal for the grow and not in a small way.

Remember by changing the light intensity and to much lesser extent spectrum you will also be changing the demand for the plants. More nutrient uptake, more demand on CO2 so you may need more air exchange, more demand on optimal environment. The harder you push a plant and the faster or grows the more these and others tolerance for error changes.

If your serious about this I will do my best to give you what information I have learned.
 
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redshift75

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Aqua Man said:
Still upset about my post?
Click to expand...
No i could care less. If you must know the reasoning Im keeping up with the joneses. Talking with my neighbor he basically said if i buy em from china he will buy em from me when im done vs the very much more expensive option of the local grow store at almost 2.5x-3x the cost but with that comes their service and returns. So we came with an idea to test the efficiency of switching over since he wants to convert me. Im very much discussing the gap i need to fill in my new expansion to indoor tents. ive already bought the best of everything in terms of air and controllers to throw at the tent so why not throw some cash at the lights. I was already considering blurple with sun boards as side lighting with a few cob lights thrown in. So minus the risk of a defective product and that hassle i was convinced by other forces to sway my reason for not investing. Which was the investment cost and deciding i dont want them + risk of he will take em off my hands at full value as we both are curious minds. its a subject we have been arguing since February. I get the daily dose of elitism first hand from friends so its a great test for us with our limited time to grow to see if we can offset the value/cost with efficiency.
 
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redshift75

Guest
plus i ordered 2 yesterday of the lm301b and then was like should i have gotten the H and realized that wont be nearly enough. So im already pot committed.
 
threatco

threatco

594
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redshift75 said:
As the title says.

so im looking at the lm1301h and lm1301b. Seems the H is marketed to Horticulture but i read things that say the H is better?

Lm1301b

This product is no longer available.

This product is no longer available.
www.alibaba.com

LM1301h

This product is no longer available.

This product is no longer available.
www.alibaba.com

Im guessing i need 6 or 8 for a 4x8 So i can run them dimmed, is there a better QB board? I want the best so i can hit this 2.5gpw+ every grow and never have a grow fail and the other benefits that come with having the best lights. I dont want to outfit the new tent with anything less than the best. is there anything i should add supplemental? /s

the downside to the switch is..
It will add quite a bit over the current amount of juice to my E bill every month. But the Benefits to switching to QB guarantee i will eventually see the ROI over their lifetime to justify the switch/operating cost.
if i factor 90 days at 18/6 and 90 days at 12/12 for a guesstimate on my usage.
my curent setup operating cost + light investment over 5 years is roughly $1,373.85
this setup puts me at $5,934.1‬ cost over 5 years with initial investment. for a total 332.192% increase operating cost.
so if i go from 1gpw to 2.5gpw id be at about 150% increase So i need about 3gpw increase roughly. But if i used 6 or 8 and only used around 864watts of the total that puts me right around 159.286% increase. which puts it in the doable range to be a successful investment hence the switch. (assuming i wrote it all down correct and transferred it over correctly to the forum).


in the end im going to do an experiment on efficiency to see if my switch will be worth wild. Since i have 2 identical tent setups i can easily switch out the lights and do a comparison. See if the efficiency i need can be offset entirely. since i pay about $0.23-$0.32 per KWh between peak and off peak and seasonal with my average being about $0.26~.

i may be off on my calculation for the boards required or the wattage used by the 240w QB288 setups. If so feel free to correct me and any tips on which set to get + how many etc feel free to let me know. Im interested to see how one can approach this switch in the most efficient fashion given my unique circumstances which can hopefully offset the ROI to at least break even or slightly better.
Click to expand...

Hello. I ordered from Abby at Yuanhui 2x of lm301b 240w mix 3000k+4000k+660nm+UV+IR on April 24th. She told me they will be shipped today.

I appreciate that they always quickly respond. But I did not entirely expect to wait 2 weeks for UPS to get their hands on it. It could be because I asked to customize them to mix 3000k + 4000k diodes.

I am not the best expert, but my research leads me to believe these are equivalent to the best QB lights out there. Samsung + Meanwell is the key. Up to you to decide if it's worth the other stuff like 600nm UV IR or switches. But they offer it all.

IMO H vs B I have been convinced that they are the exact same diodes, marketed with different spec sheets being the only difference. Read a quote from a Samsung sales rep explaining it as so.

I agree with 6 for a 4x8 space. Many people use 2 in a 4x4. So 6 would be a great number for an ideal setup I think.

I am just happy to see someone else will be using the same brand light as me. Good luck with the upgrade!
 
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redshift75

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Aqua Man said:
Just be careful running different bin boards on the same driver in parallel. You should run them in series so the H type drivers are what ya want
Click to expand...
i contacted them today and they said i can switch to the H is that what you think i should do go all H or all B?
 
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redshift75

Guest
jaguarlax said:
so what were saying here is you can see the 1400 dollar difference 👀
Click to expand...
no i cant yet as i havent gotten them. they would have to reach the potential as quoted for it to achieve a positive ROI. I think if electricity was a non issue id see it as more of a difference. But that cost + the added cost of electricity remains to be seen by the return. i will approach it with science
 
R

redshift75

Guest
threatco said:
Hello. I ordered from Abby at Yuanhui 2x of lm301b 240w mix 3000k+4000k+660nm+UV+IR on April 24th. She told me they will be shipped today.

I appreciate that they always quickly respond. But I did not entirely expect to wait 2 weeks for UPS to get their hands on it. It could be because I asked to customize them to mix 3000k + 4000k diodes.

I am not the best expert, but my research leads me to believe these are equivalent to the best QB lights out there. Samsung + Meanwell is the key. Up to you to decide if it's worth the other stuff like 600nm UV IR or switches. But they offer it all.

IMO H vs B I have been convinced that they are the exact same diodes, marketed with different spec sheets being the only difference. Read a quote from a Samsung sales rep explaining it as so.

I agree with 6 for a 4x8 space. Many people use 2 in a 4x4. So 6 would be a great number for an ideal setup I think.

I am just happy to see someone else will be using the same brand light as me. Good luck with the upgrade!
Click to expand...
6 does seem to be a good number so i can run them dimmed without the need to be so intense across all of them. I figure if i spread out the boards i can run them in a more efficient range.?? i think thats what i was reading on another post. thats also who i dealt with. So far great communication. I told them to delay it as i decide between B and H i was just going to go 3500k with 660nm red? not sure which is the best. Most of my information pointed to it being dealers choice. i dont think i want or need ir/uv? kind of like the idea of the extra diodes going towards other lights.
 
R

redshift75

Guest
Aqua Man said:
Yes always try to stay with the same boards. And beat practice is wire them in series.
Click to expand...
im just buying the kit or w.e so id be wiring up 2 boards per kit. i dont plan to get better drivers Ill just set them all up as individual 2 board panels. Im not sure if thats what you mean. what spectrum you think i should go with for the 6?
 
jaguarlax

jaguarlax

Supporter
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redshift75 said:
6 does seem to be a good number so i can run them dimmed without the need to be so intense across all of them. I figure if i spread out the boards i can run them in a more efficient range.?? i think thats what i was reading on another post. thats also who i dealt with. So far great communication. I told them to delay it as i decide between B and H i was just going to go 3500k with 660nm red? not sure which is the best. Most of my information pointed to it being dealers choice. i dont think i want or need ir/uv? kind of like the idea of the extra diodes going towards other lights.
Click to expand...
it would be handy to get something so you can read the power draw from the wall... mine came pre-driven at different values and gave me some trouble with tripping th built in fail-safe.
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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redshift75 said:
6 does seem to be a good number so i can run them dimmed without the need to be so intense across all of them. I figure if i spread out the boards i can run them in a more efficient range.?? i think thats what i was reading on another post. thats also who i dealt with. So far great communication. I told them to delay it as i decide between B and H i was just going to go 3500k with 660nm red? not sure which is the best. Most of my information pointed to it being dealers choice. i dont think i want or need ir/uv? kind of like the idea of the extra diodes going towards other lights.
Click to expand...
My opinion is if they can Infact provide the UVB not so much UVA then get them with.. it will also help. While the IR and UV spectrums are not as efficient much like green they all play an important part.

Each spectrum kinda has its own receptors in the plant. So let's just say you are getting close to the saturation point with red and blue. All of a sudden those less efficient receptors are more important. I can say the exact ratios but a balance is always best imo. Now also the spectral effects on top of that I will give ya a link in the next post on how they affect plants. Spectrum is more important once you are reaching up into a high light grow. For budget cheap led it's all about the amount of photons you can get because it will give you the most gains once you get into high light then it's worth looking more into spectrums.
 
Last edited:
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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638
redshift75 said:
im just buying the kit or w.e so id be wiring up 2 boards per kit. i dont plan to get better drivers Ill just set them all up as individual 2 board panels. Im not sure if thats what you mean. what spectrum you think i should go with for the 6?
Click to expand...
Personally if I am growing from seed to harvest i would go 3k across the board. Nothing wrong with 3500 either but 4k is to blue for me to do seed to harvest.
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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638
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redshift75

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jaguarlax said:
it would be handy to get something so you can read the power draw from the wall... mine came pre-driven at different values and gave me some trouble with tripping th built in fail-safe.
Click to expand...
I have a stack of a kill a watt meters. Ill have to figure that out when i get them i guess. Dont know enough about QBs to comment


Aqua Man said:
My opinion is if they can Infact provide the UVB not so much UVA then get them with.. it will also help. While the IR and UV spectrums are not as efficient much like green they all play an important part.

Each spectrum kinda has its own receptors in the plant. So let's just say you are getting close to the saturation point with red and blue. All of a sudden those less efficient receptors are more important. I can say the exact ratios but a balance is always best imo. Now also the spectral effects on top of that I will give ya a link in the next post on how they affect plants. Spectrum is more important once you are reaching up into a high light grow. For budget cheap led it's all about the amount of photons you can get because it will give you the most gains once you get into high light then it's worth looking more into spectrums.
Click to expand...
So which panels do you recommend?
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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redshift75 said:
I have a stack of a kill a watt meters. Ill have to figure that out when i get them i guess. Dont know enough about QBs to comment



So which panels do you recommend?
Click to expand...
Personally I don't believe the UV is enough UVB but I would say the IR is worth it.
 
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redshift75

Guest
Aqua Man said:
Personally I don't believe the UV is enough UVB but I would say the IR is worth it.
Click to expand...
i have enough lights i can add for supplemental uv or ir i can always throw a sunboard in for that. is it worth getting red since they say they are the epistar? and just go solid white?
should i go with a combination?
 
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