Blaze's 2010 garden

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Blaze

Blaze

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Hello fellow farmers! So here's what I've been working on this last year. This was a new site and a new garden for this year so everything had to be built from scratch. Due to extremely cold and wet weather we got off to a late start and were not able to plant until mid-June. Despite the late start the ladies have done pretty good, but I hope to get them 50% bigger next year.

I would consider this system of growing to be a hybrid-organic method of growing. I am using a combination of organic soil and soil amendments, aerated compost teas, and organic liquid fertilizers. The plants themselves are being grown in large, raised beds, with a built-in drain system, each of which holds over 3 yards of soil.

To get started we scrapped aside the layer of native topsoil that was present, then dug out a 6’ x 6’ by 20” hole. Next we built an in-ground drain system by placing a perforated pipe in the bottom of each hole, and covering it with about 8”-10” of lava rock. Each pipe connects into a main line that runs the length of the garden and drains out to the downhill side. Care was taken to make sure that the whole system has a slight downhill slope to it, to ensure proper drainage. Finally, we placed some mulch cloth on top to prevent the soil from filtering down into the lava rock and potentially clogging the system.

After the drain was in, we started building our lower layer of soil. This layer went from right above the drain to the current level of the native soil, a depth of about 12”. This mix consisted of rice hulls, lava rock, contractor sand, (which is just pea-sized lava rock) gypsum, the native top soil we saved, a small amount of earth worm castings, and organic compost made from green waste and grape pomace, oyster shell flour, bone meal, blood meal, kelp meal, Dolomite 10, greensand, soil sulfur pellets and Glacial Rock Dust.
 
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Blaze

Blaze

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Next it was up it was time to build and install the raised beds. This next layer consists of a wooden box, which sits on top of the drain, and the 12” of soil. Each raised bed is 6’ x 6’ by 18” and built out of redwood. The inside is coated with non-toxic tree seal like they use in grafting. This is to help protect the wood from rotting and get us more years out of the beds before they rot apart. When I get some more time I will be staining the outside with some sort of natural oil as well to further protect them from the weather. The bottom of each bed has ½” aviary wire strung across the bottom to keep gophers and any other burrowing pests from being able to get at the plants root ball.

To speed things up in filling the beds, we used pre-made OMRI listed soil from a local soil company. It was made with horse and cow manure, grape and apple pomace, rice hulls, straw, soft rock phosphate, greensand, ¼” red fir bark, sandy loam soil, crushed lava rock and a little soil sulfur. We also tilled in some additions of our own – more rice hulls, earth worm castings, and some of NCGA’s “organic magic mix” which contains myccorhizae as well as range of micro and macro nutrients that the plants will need in these first few weeks. Once all this was done we mulched everything with straw, watered in the beds, and started planting.

After we finished planting we began working on the drip and fertigation system. Each bed has two in-ground lines running to it – one for food and one for fertilizer. The main line is 1” PVC, with ¾” PVC risers at each bed. Each ¾” PVC riser then connections into a length of ½” black poly tubing, which then connection to several ¼” diameter drip tubes that have 1/2 GPH emitter ever 12". This creates a grid of ½ GPH emitters over the entire surface of our bed to ensure even watering. The system is controlled by a single Hunter SVC 9v timer and is set to water for short amounts of time, 4 times a day, to encourage the t op feeder roots.

All of this is controlled by a valve box which was built last summer in preparation for this project. It has a cement floor and walls to keep out any burrowing pests, such as gophers, form getting in and causing problems. The water is coming from an irrigation pond at a higher elevation, which gave us over 80 psi at the garden. This was too much psi for a drip system to handle, so a pressure reducer had to be installed. A pressure gauge was also installed before and after the reducer to help monitor and adjust the pressure as needed. A large disc-style filter was installed right after the pressure reducer - it is always important to keep your lines clean, especially if you are using pond water. If needed the system was also set up so that I can re-route water from two different springs on the property into the irrigation as well. I also have a pair of 3,000 gallon cement tanks to store spring water as a back up, just in cause there is ever an issue with the main system or the irrigation pond. This also allows me to have drinkable water at the garden as well – a must on those hot summer days.
 
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southstreets

southstreets

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beautiful pics brotha!!! loved your bubble hash thread too by the way!!!
 
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dusty

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Really like what you did. Fantastic job. Any NCGA genetics out there this year?
 
xX Kid Twist Xx

xX Kid Twist Xx

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very cool bro, good set up for sure!
 
Blaze

Blaze

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Yep most of this garden is NCGA genetics, as are all 4 full plant pictures I posted. The first shot is of of the STFU, the second is Blue Satelite x Killer Queen, the third is Lemonaid 2000 x Jack the Ripper and the last one is of the Lemonaid 2000. The two close up shots are of two of my strains - Guava Kush and Blueberry Pie.
 
altitudefarmer

altitudefarmer

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Stellar job!!!! I bet those girls produce some of the finest smoke! Organic outdoor ismy absolute favorite stuff- from vegetables to fine herbs. Thanks for sharing this grow.
 
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dusty

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All that stuff looks great. I'd like to get some NCGA genetics in to my garden next year.
 
UCMENOW

UCMENOW

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No waking up on the wrong side of that Bed

Those beds are inspiring.....that's taking double digging to a "hole" new level, pun fully intended.

Seriously though, the shizzle.
 
CheechWizard

CheechWizard

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You know it's going to get good when someone gets out the excavator. Wow! blaze, tagging along for sure. Sounds like a nice soil mix. tango mulch. you use the sulfur and dolomite together as a ph buffer?

Hey are you running fert. through your drippers? I keep clogging mine and even with a 300 and 150 micron screen. That biolink 3-3-3 is the derth of the drip lol. Plz. let me know if you have a good emitter.
 
Blaze

Blaze

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You know it's going to get good when someone gets out the excavator. Wow! blaze, tagging along for sure. Sounds like a nice soil mix. tango mulch. you use the sulfur and dolomite together as a ph buffer?

Hey are you running fert. through your drippers? I keep clogging mine and even with a 300 and 150 micron screen. That biolink 3-3-3 is the derth of the drip lol. Plz. let me know if you have a good emitter.

I am running fertilizer and tea through the same drippers at another site. Never did get around to getting the fertilizer in this garden on a drip system - it will be a project for next year. I already got some larger size emitters to try out in this garden next year, so we'll see how that goes. They are almost twice the diameter of the 1/4" lines I'm using for water, and instead of just a hole punched in a piece of plastic ,it has an actual 0.4 gph emitter every 12". Supposedly they are harder to clog but I'll have to wait till next season to put them to the test.

I've had similar problems with clogging in the past though, but so far I've had no problems at the other site this year. I have found a few tricks that help with this problem though. First, double filter everything. I filter my water before it goes into the fertilizer tank, and then after as well.

Second, bury your fertilizer lines - the heat from being in direct sunlight will cause salt build up, as the H20 in the lines will evaporate, leaving behind salt crystals from the fertilizer. They don't have to be too deep - just 2" of dirt or so will help keep them cool.

Third - have two systems - one for water, and one for fertilizer. Running both through one system increases the chances of it clogging up on you. Plus you do NOT want your water system to get all clogged up in the middle of the season.

Fourth - some fertilizer, especially many organic fertilizers, just do not work well in drip systems. For example fish emulsion will clog your entire system in as little as one run, even with filters, at least in my experience. I haven't used the Biolink 3-3-3, but if is is really "sludgy" or leaves behind a thick residue, it's probably not the best thing to be running through your lines. I stick to Botanicare's organic liquid fertilizers mostly, as they tend not to have this issue.
 
M

mal

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Really Awesome

Blaze that shit is impressive, hope you have even better luck in the future



mal
 
Seamaiden

Seamaiden

Living dead girl
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Blaze, I have quite a few micronized products from the outfit in Grass Valley that, according to label directions, can be put through fertigation or foliar apps. For instance, hydrolized fish emulsion (sp?), which I can never get out of suspension and truly dissolved.
 
Blaze

Blaze

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Really? You should PM me the specifics I'd be very interested in checking that out. I'm still always a little skeptical about running products like that through drip but ya never know till you try it out. I plan on using only ag products next year. I think (and hope) my days of using the bottled organic hydro nutes are over. I've been looking into it this last season and have found ag products that can replace almost everything I used this year. I was able to reduce how much hydro nutrients I used by at least 40% this year by using lots of ACT and doing smaller more regular feedings but I want to eliminate them completely for next season.
 
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dusty

Guest
lookin forward to trying all those...the Gods Gift / Grape Krush looks fantastic so does the lemonaid...
 
Hopefull Stoner

Hopefull Stoner

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looking nice , maybe onc day i can safely do it like that too.

damn dude,
i finally have seen you stop rading long enough to make an awesome thread.

now for the questions lol.

what are lemon aid 2000
blueberrry pie
quava kush

if these are also in seed form some where can you please let me know. thx
 
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