budderfly
- 38
- 18
I can't help but wonder what sort of security issue would stop you from growing inside your house but unhidden- and yet hiding the grow in the same place makes sense. Not my business, just curious.
The advice you've gotten already sounds top notch, and way over my head! I'm taking notes for when the time might come for me to get quiet.
Good luck and I'll be subbed for the action!
i wish i had a basement.... that would be the ultimate for me.... looking good there budderfly..
To be honest, we would much rather set up in another spot, but unfortunately we had some financial set backs and that doesn't seem attainable at the moment.
I've been a bit coy about the "security issue". Bottom line is the police paid us a visit last year and we haven't grown since.
Some of you will undoubtedly, and perhaps rightfully, call me crazy for growing in the same spot. That's why the exceptional focus on stealth.
My goal is literally to be able have the room go undiscovered during execution of a search warrant, if that were to happen. We really doubt that will happen - it's been nearly a year since our visit - but better safe than sorry. Realistically, I don't see the task force having the funds or attention span to be looking back at us a year later just in case I'm up to something again. They have plenty of leads to follow and work mainly off of tips - they had one on me last year due to a stupid security lapse on my part that will never happen again, and the person responsible (and every last one of his friends/associates) has been 100% extricated from my life for over a year.
As soon as it's financially viable we will be getting a trailer to outfit and parking it in some industrial storage type space.
Anyway, picked up the Roxul insulation today. I wasn't sure if the Safe'n'Sound or ComfortBatt would be better, but only the Safe'n'Sound was advertised as a sound-proofing material - it's just that the Safe'n'Sound has an R-value of 0.
Here's a pic, it's no heavier (not noticeably) than standard fiberglass batts. Each pack is 48 feet long (twelve 47" batts) and costs $35. For $150 I will be able to insulate each of the four walls and triple layer the ceiling and I'll still have leftovers in case I need to make a fan box or duct muffler.
When I was young, and first starting down this path, I convinved my father that I could take care of his finacial woes with a little room. We built a secret room off a closet in the basement. When he moved and sold the house we screwed it shut and finished the drywall mud and tape on that wall. I went back home for a visit at christmas and one of my old friends was renting an apartment in the building this secret room was built. It so happened the room was off one of his closets, still drywalled shut. I told him the story and he didn't belive me, I told him to go get his drill and exacto knife. Low and behold it was there. Now he is growing for himself in this very space.
As one layer in an overall plan of security and stealth, your room should be fine, then. Clearly, you've done quite a bit of thinking about this, forgive me for rushing to conclusions.
The dry wall you want is called sound break xp, it's expensive but it's the best sound dampening drywall there is.
5/8" thick gypsum board consists of a layer of viscoelastic damping polymer sandwiched between two pieces of high density mold resistant gypsum board
Gold Bond® BRAND e2XP® Interior Extreme® IR Gypsum Panel is an impact, moisture and mold resistant gypsum panel designed for interior applications requiring increased resistance to incidental moisture and wall penetrations.
e2XP Interior Extreme IR is manufactured with an enhanced abuse, impact, moisture and mold resistant gypsum core and facer. The facer is composed of a coated fiberglass mat which provides superior abrasion and moisture resistant capabilities. A fiberglass mesh is embedded into the core, close to the back of the board to provide impact/penetration resistance. It is produced in a 5/8" thickness with a Fire-Shield® Type X core.
in the future, your bottom plates should be pressure-treated lumber, or place a moisture barrier between the concrete and lumber . . . to address future rot and mold issues from moisture wicking up from the concrete..
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