Can we talk about PPM?

Nate_in_AK · Dec 28, 2020

Found this list on growace.com:

Seedlings: 100-250 (nutrients aren't needed here, hence there's not a lot of particles needed)
First Half of Vegging Cycle: 300-400 (this is usually after you transplant, which still doesn't require many nutrients)
Second Half of Vegging: 450-700 (you'll start giving your plants more nutrients at this stage)
First Half of Flowering: 750-950 (your plants will be eating more as they grow, so they'll be taking in more nutrients)
Second Half of Flowering: 1000-1600 (this is when your plant's eating the most, especially if you give it additives)
End of Flower, Entering Harvest: As close to 0 as possible (this is when you'll be flushing your plants, so you don't want there to be a lot of particles leftover)

Would love to hear feedback from others here on these guidelines.

I'm suspect I knee-capped my last grow by overfeeding them; my PPM was in the 1500s in early veg. This round I am going to be more conservative and intend to use this guide unless feedback convinces me otherwise.

johnursery · Dec 28, 2020

This seems pretty good but general of course, that's probably for the best though and seems safe, I've read alot about flush not being needed but I like to give some simple carbs like sweet or molasses while backing down on nutes at the end i like to think in nature the plants nutes are going slowly away towards harvest

Jumpingspider · Dec 28, 2020

This is definitely helpful.

I'm wondering if tapering down to 0 in the second to last week, then one week of 0 ppm would be the way to go, or does it make more sense to go from full throttle to slamming on the brakes be better. I'm leaving towards the former.

Also I'm wondering- would staying too low during the second half of flowering cause a slow down in ripening and lower yield? Or does it ripen regardless of nutrition and simply wouldn't get as fat.

johnursery · Dec 28, 2020

You're definitely losing mass if your nutes are too low during 2nd 1/2 of flowering but that's the trade off and would need monitoring on a garden by garden and adjusting for genetics also but the plants will tell you if you're burning them or its way too low i feel it doesn't matter how high others can take their ppm's unless you have a very good environment dialed in with the genetics and co2 is another factor that allows things to get pushed farther. But no shame in keeping things low sometimes especially depending on the strain and environmental conditions it maybe entirely necessary
Peace

caregivermac · Dec 28, 2020

Nate_in_AK said:
Found this list on growace.com:

Seedlings: 100-250 (nutrients aren't needed here, hence there's not a lot of particles needed)

First Half of Vegging Cycle: 300-400 (this is usually after you transplant, which still doesn't require many nutrients)

Second Half of Vegging: 450-700 (you'll start giving your plants more nutrients at this stage)

First Half of Flowering: 750-950 (your plants will be eating more as they grow, so they'll be taking in more nutrients)

Second Half of Flowering: 1000-1600 (this is when your plant's eating the most, especially if you give it additives)

End of Flower, Entering Harvest: As close to 0 as possible (this is when you'll be flushing your plants, so you don't want there to be a lot of particles leftover)

Would love to hear feedback from others here on these guidelines.

I'm suspect I knee-capped my last grow by overfeeding them; my PPM was in the 1500s in early veg. This round I am going to be more conservative and intend to use this guide unless feedback convinces me otherwise.

Some of this stuff seem awfully high in numbers to me. I am a newbie at indoor grows, Are these total numbers or are they the 6 inch squares plotted out? Just purchased Mars Hydro TS 1000. from advice else where on this site said, might not get huge buds size of my arm but would have respectable harvest. In Tent 4 x 4' x 80" reflective inside.

Only place Mars Hydro has that high reading is center of pattern. A very respected lighting company in door grows?

caregivermac · Dec 28, 2020

johnursery said:
You're definitely losing mass if your nutes are too low during 2nd 1/2 of flowering but that's the trade off and would need monitoring on a garden by garden and adjusting for genetics also but the plants will tell you if you're burning them or its way too low i feel it doesn't matter how high others can take their ppm's unless you have a very good environment dialed in with the genetics and co2 is another factor that allows things to get pushed farther. But no shame in keeping things low sometimes especially depending on the strain and environmental conditions it maybe entirely necessary
Peace

Which is more important nutes or light?

Nate_in_AK · Dec 28, 2020

caregivermac said:
Some of this stuff seem awfully high in numbers to me. I am a newbie at indoor grows, Are these total numbers or are they the 6 inch squares plotted out? Just purchased Mars Hydro TS 1000. from advice else where on this site said, might not get huge buds size of my arm but would have respectable harvest. In Tent 4 x 4' x 80" reflective inside.

Only place Mars Hydro has that high reading is center of pattern. A very respected lighting company in door grows?

PPM is nutrients.

caregivermac · Dec 28, 2020

Nate_in_AK said:
PPM is nutrients.

Is there a wiki here for lingo?

Aqua Man · Dec 28, 2020

Thise seem awful high to me. I rarely go over 600-700in hydro and my coco seems best at about 800. But I also run co2 so need a bit higher nutrient concentration. In my soil I never went above 600.

Nate_in_AK · Dec 28, 2020

caregivermac said:
Is there a wiki here for lingo?

These terms are used in most home cultivation of nearly any plant.

PPM = Parts Per Million, an indication of nutrient potency in water.
EC = Electrical Conductivity. This reading is used to calculate PPM, but sometimes people refer to it directly.
PH = Potential of Hydrogen. This indicates the acidity or base of the media.
Humidity (assumed to be Absolute Humidity unless otherwise specified)
RH = Relative Humidity. This measurement accounts for air temperature somehow.
Lux (Not an abbreviation) = Light Intensity
PAR = Photosynthetically Active Radiation. A more affluent measurement of light intensity specific to growing. Requires more $$ gear.
VPD = Vapor Pressure Differential. Google this once you have a good handle on everything else.

That's all I can think of for now.

caregivermac · Dec 28, 2020

Nate_in_AK said:
These terms are used in most home cultivation of nearly any plant.

PPM = Parts Per Million, an indication of nutrient potency in water.
EC = Electrical Conductivity. This reading is used to calculate PPM, but sometimes people refer to it directly.
PH = Potential of Hydrogen. This indicates the acidity or base of the media.
Humidity (assumed to be Absolute Humidity unless otherwise specified)
RH = Relative Humidity. This measurement accounts for air temperature somehow.
Lux (Not an abbreviation) = Light Intensity
PAR = Photosynthetically Active Radiation. A more affluent measurement of light intensity specific to growing. Requires more $$ gear.
VPD = Vapor Pressure Differential. Google this once you have a good handle on everything else.

That's all I can think of for now.

Thanks, I have printed this for future reference

Beachwalker · Dec 28, 2020

caregivermac said:
Some of this stuff seem awfully high in numbers to me. I am a newbie at indoor grows

I'm with the newbie, I would never feed that high, I almost never feed more than 850, once in awhile to 1000 if it looks like it really needs it; The other numbers seem workable, so all-in-all a pretty good chart Nate, thanks!

johnursery · Dec 28, 2020

I'm def gonna start running my numbers lower when I get back up based on the feedback, I've always chased 1300 and even after I added co2 I could never get there and not get some burning leaf tips but saw people online getting there or even 1500. Now I think next time I'll work up to 800 and then back down 1 week before ripe and flush a week-2

smokedareefer · Dec 28, 2020

On a 500 scale, 600 is a high finish for me

Beachwalker · Dec 28, 2020

Beachwalker said:
I'm with the newbie, I would never feed that high, I almost never feed more than 850, once in awhile to 1000 if it looks like it really needs it; The other numbers seem workable, so all-in-all a pretty good chart Nate, thanks!

500 scale

Dirtbag · Dec 28, 2020

Looks high to me too, especially the second half of flower rates. Thats when i usually start tapering the feed back if anything. About the highest i ever feed is around 1.3-1.5ec or 7-800ppm for the first few weeks of flower. Second half of flower is closer to 500ppm working down to 250 by week 7-9 depending on strain.

Plants outdoors below the 45th parallel grown under full sun are a different animal and can take far more though. Indoors, i almost never go over 800ppm unless the strain is a freak that wants more. But thats uber rare over here.

growsince79 · Dec 28, 2020

Maybe the perfect strain in a perfect hydro with co2 setup. 1600 is too much for most.

Jumpingspider · Dec 29, 2020

johnursery said:
You're definitely losing mass if your nutes are too low during 2nd 1/2 of flowering but that's the trade off and would need monitoring on a garden by garden and adjusting for genetics also but the plants will tell you if you're burning them or its way too low i feel it doesn't matter how high others can take their ppm's unless you have a very good environment dialed in with the genetics and co2 is another factor that allows things to get pushed farther. But no shame in keeping things low sometimes especially depending on the strain and environmental conditions it maybe entirely necessary
Peace

That make sense, that less nutes means less mass in the end, I'm also wondering if it can slow down the plant's maturation.

Like can underfeeding take a strain that is supposed to finish in 9 weeks to an 11 or 12 week flowering cycle, based on trichomes?

j1sonbrother · Dec 29, 2020

Dirtbag said:
Looks high to me too, especially the second half of flower rates. Thats when i usually start tapering the feed back if anything. About the highest i ever feed is around 1.3-1.5ec or 7-800ppm for the first few weeks of flower. Second half of flower is closer to 500ppm working down to 250 by week 7-9 depending on strain.

Plants outdoors below the 45th parallel grown under full sun are a different animal and can take far more though. Indoors, i almost never go over 800ppm unless the strain is a freak that wants more. But thats uber rare over here.

Hi Dirtbag:
Thank you for your previous instruction, and you used to say that u will drop EC back to 0.8-1ec after the stretch for weeks 4-8 ,But if its sativa main hybrids （around 10-12 weeks of flowering), Do i still need to cut it to 0.8-1.0 EC in the fourth week or so？
In addition, I recently found that the calmag can be stopped around the second week of flowering. I think if my tap water (about 120 ppm), I may not need any calmag， and i really don't know what to do .

j1sonbrother · Dec 29, 2020

I've learnt from my last run experience that the peak of EC in bloom is around 1.2-1.3 (what I heard from the TheDudegrows is 1.2EC is the most economical usage in bloom, and I feel that if the EC of run off is too high in the middle or late flowering , the flushing will be a bit tricky."Less" is more. It's huge important, （It's not just about cutting ppm or EC，stop feeding nitrogen and Silica in week 5-6, and eliminate all micro , including calmag in the last 3 weeks.）

Can we talk about PPM?

Can we talk about PPM?

Nate_in_AK

johnursery

Jumpingspider

johnursery

caregivermac

caregivermac

Nate_in_AK

caregivermac

Aqua Man

Nate_in_AK

caregivermac

Beachwalker

johnursery

smokedareefer

Beachwalker

Dirtbag

growsince79

Jumpingspider

j1sonbrother

j1sonbrother

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