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Capulators First Mpb Run, And First A Documented Garage Conversion.

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Capulators First Mpb Run, And First A Documented Garage Conversion.

Capulator 505 Replies 100,958 Views
Page 14 of 26 · Replies 261–280 of 506
Not sure why never read this til, just a couple pages in now. Cap how do you feel about that AC unit a year in?
 
Not sure why never read this til, just a couple pages in now. Cap how do you feel about that AC unit a year in?

It still works. It keeps the room nice and cool, and you cant hear it outside at all.

Pros:
keeps my room anywhere between 73 up with 9k and 2 dehueys running. Ballasts are in a separate room.

Cycles on/off in the room, cant hear outside. very stealth.

Cons:
18" intake and exhaust.

I built a false ceiling and the hot air goes up in to the garage "attic" and then I put a hole in to the house attic. Makes the house too hot in the Summer. Would rather vent outside but not an option for security reasons in this location. May end up building something that will allow me to do this , but not a priority. I just added an AC to the main house to battle it, and put an exhaust in the attic to push air through the existing soffet vents.

Heavy.
 
Hmm, I'm in the middle designing around similar venting restrictions, crazy how it can be so hard just to vent some hot AC exhaust clandestinely. So that unit is totally sealed for stink? How big is the attic space and how big/many are the roof/soffet vents?
 
its not totally sealed, even though it should be. Somehow I still get stink. I used 2 ozone generators in the intake side and solved that problem. The attic space is big enough for me to crawl around in. probably like 1220 sq. ft. of open space. probably 8 or so vents that were already existing.

The only way to do TOTALLY sealed OMHO is a mini split, or water cooled.
 
Hmm, I'm in the middle designing around similar venting restrictions, crazy how it can be so hard just to vent some hot AC exhaust clandestinely. So that unit is totally sealed for stink? How big is the attic space and how big/many are the roof/soffet vents?
Agreed, seems like there's no such thing as even an industrial-level sealed portable. I think it's because there's really no way to completely isolate the exhaust to where it isn't pulling air from elsewhere inside the case. I've even considered building an all-in-one boxed minisplit, so as to have it be more portable for my ever-evolving garden layout.
 
hey cap. Do the drip lines on the dtw chow mix have flow regulators to make sure each gets the same amount of water or do you just let it run. I ask cause i got my first dtw going. Im just hand watering at the moment. The only way I could figure out was a gph flow attachement to the end of the tubing . Maybe you figured out something better
 
hey cap. Do the drip lines on the dtw chow mix have flow regulators to make sure each gets the same amount of water or do you just let it run. I ask cause i got my first dtw going. Im just hand watering at the moment. The only way I could figure out was a gph flow attachement to the end of the tubing . Maybe you figured out something better

If you look around at various irrigation options, you'll notice that most of them have some sort of metering tip insert at the end where you stick it in the media beside the plant. Aim the opening away from the main stem of the plant, you do not want a personal introduction to 'elephant's foot'! Don't just leave the end of the irrigation tubing open, or you will be inviting just the sort of uneven water distribution you're trying to avoid.
 
Maybe fucking with geothermal watercooling would be worth the trouble.
I can say for a fact that watercooled stuff isolates stink.
A bigass chiller would work for that I bet.
 
hey cap. Do the drip lines on the dtw chow mix have flow regulators to make sure each gets the same amount of water or do you just let it run. I ask cause i got my first dtw going. Im just hand watering at the moment. The only way I could figure out was a gph flow attachement to the end of the tubing . Maybe you figured out something better

No. I copied leadsleds DIY on drippers using 6mm tophat grommets and basket drippers. All of the lines are the same length, so there is even pressure. I regulate total pressure via a bleed valve off the 1800 danner pump I use, which in turn circulates the water.

Big props to lead on the drip setup. I converted all my top feeds to this. WAY better than the manifolds IMHO. those things always break.
 
Maybe fucking with geothermal watercooling would be worth the trouble.
I can say for a fact that watercooled stuff isolates stink.
A bigass chiller would work for that I bet.

A big ass chiller works. It works to isolate stink. It works to remove heat. It works to reduce electric bills. It works reliably. It works to put the most cooling EXACTLY where you need it. Even a not so big ass chiller works to do all the above, for a surprisingly large setup...
 
A big ass chiller works. It works to isolate stink. It works to remove heat. It works to reduce electric bills. It works reliably. It works to put the most cooling EXACTLY where you need it. Even a not so big ass chiller works to do all the above, for a surprisingly large setup...

Yeah I wish I had listened to you before I installed my 5 ton. Too late to change now. Maybe in the next life...
 
Yeah I wish I had listened to you before I installed my 5 ton. Too late to change now. Maybe in the next life...

Nothing is forever except death and taxes. Chances are good you'll end up moving someplace with your name on the title, and that's really the best scenario for a chiller anyway. After all, one of the biggest investments in a chiller is all the infrastructure required to get the cold water to and from all the places it's needed, including the chiller, the reservoir and the pump. It's not just the expense, it's the installation time involved. Since I remember you saying you rent your current place, I would have reservations about making a blanket recommendation to go the chiller route just yet.

Here's the upside; once it IS your place, brother, getting a chiller will be one of the smartest investments you've ever made! You can of course cool your grow with it- but you can also cool your living spaces, and unless your friends have kilowatt personalities, they'll have a much lower heat load. In the winter, you can not only pull the hot output of your compressor section through your house, but also to a great extent you can cool your op without running the compressor at all, with an outside heat exchanger- both of these options can save serious money on HVAC, and the attendant costs of keeping your home at a comfortable temperature.

If you decide to build, the potential savings involved with using water to heat and cool the spaces- and operations- in your home expand even further, since you can incorporate your chiller and HVAC needs with active water transported solar power. Example; in the daytime, you use solar panels on the roof to heat your hot water and warm your home. The chiller's heating section can of course do the same. At night, you can run the warm water from your grow through the same solar panels and they'll radiate the excess heat!
 
No. I copied leadsleds DIY on drippers using 6mm tophat grommets and basket drippers. All of the lines are the same length, so there is even pressure. I regulate total pressure via a bleed valve off the 1800 danner pump I use, which in turn circulates the water.

Big props to lead on the drip setup. I converted all my top feeds to this. WAY better than the manifolds IMHO. those things always break.

So tell me why you feel that drippers are superior to standard high pressure topfeed irrigation? You've already mentioned reliability...
 
So tell me why you feel that drippers are superior to standard high pressure topfeed irrigation? You've already mentioned reliability...

By standard do you mean standard manifold? I don't like how the plastic on those where the drip line connects tot he manifold becomes brittle and breaks off. PLus, gettign the 1/4" tubing on them sometimes you break them. A littel flame from a lighter helps to soften the line up so you can get it on easily, but with the top hat grommets they just push right in.
 
chrome 12-spigot air manifolds, prob some reason these shouldn't work, but I haven't found it yet
 
No shit? For water? They don't leak?
 
Do they leak for air? I thought the same thing til I tried one, hasn't leaked yet. Pretty likely they'll corrode over time though, and prob dumping some kind of nasty non-organic substance into my plants.
 
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