Cheap alternatives to overpriced hydroponic nutrients

ivyboy1225 · May 16, 2015

hey @jimmy the hat, I'm not sure what my runoff EC is at. Honestly at the room thats yellowing it's very strange, I get very little runoff, perhaps 5-10% (on autodrip). The other site I run I'm hand watering and get considerably more. I'm giving 55 gallons a day with the hand water and 100+ at the other. Same formula, same veg times (4 weeks), same pot size (3 gallons).

Fresh Starts · May 17, 2015

Very little runOff is it's own double edged sword. I'm with jimmy, check that runoff for EC and PH. What's the humidity like in the room with yellow?

ivyboy1225 · May 17, 2015

Around 40 RH. My other room's humidity is at 65. I have one overhead dehuey at the 65 place, 2 overheads at the 40. The room with the yellow leaves is relatively new. I had a patch of black mold where water congregated and touched the dry wall but I bleached it out and fungicided it and it hasn't come back since. Everything else has kilz primer on it and panda film.

I'll check the ph of my runoff... to my understanding that is just collecting the runoff and sticking a probe in it correct?

jimmy the hat · May 17, 2015

vpd looks to be the culprit..... lose a dehuey in room 2 and water until 15-20% runoff....i think that will get things going again....and yes to collect runoff wait about 30sec (once it starts flowing) then collect that water and "stick the probe in "

ivyboy1225 said:
Around 40 RH. My other room's humidity is at 65. I have one overhead dehuey at the 65 place, 2 overheads at the 40. The room with the yellow leaves is relatively new. I had a patch of black mold where water congregated and touched the dry wall but I bleached it out and fungicided it and it hasn't come back since. Everything else has kilz primer on it and panda film.

I'll check the ph of my runoff... to my understanding that is just collecting the runoff and sticking a probe in it correct?

Fresh Starts · May 17, 2015

Getting humidity in consistent correct range is essential to cannabis. 60-70% in veg is ideal but 55-60% will cut it. Low humidity causes the plant to stop transpiration and it can't feed correctly. You'll see rust spots from calcium deficiency first then overall yellowing followed by necrosis. Foliar spray with stress reducing agents like compost tea with a light cal/mg EC will help them come back. Honestly, a humidifier is probably in order here.

ivyboy1225 · May 17, 2015

Hi, perhaps there was a miscommunication along the way. I'm currently in week 5 at one site and 7 in the other of bloom, not veg. I'm going to attempt to run 3-2-1 jacks-cal nit-epsom with .3 AgSil. My understanding was keeping humidity around 65 and temps at 85 with co2 1250 was good. My other site that is in beginning week 7 (the one with the yellowing) and my intention was to prevent moisture from getting in the buds (a problem I had with green crack in the past) so I tried dropping the RH to around 45.

Fresh Starts · May 18, 2015

you're adding another 25 mg/l of K into the mix with Agsil and if you're using coco that's almost 300 mg/l- crazy amount of K. Agsil will also increase alkalinity of fertilizers and substrate. What's the PH of the fertilizer all mixed up? Using a sample of the substrate and testing for PH and EC might give us some answers

ivyboy1225 · May 18, 2015

Hi fresh, I'll pm u. I don't want to derail thread too much. Ty everyone for help.

FooDoo · May 18, 2015

ivyboy1225 said:
My understanding was keeping humidity around 65 and temps at 85 with co2 1250 was good

That is actually all very off. Co2 should be 900-1100. 1200 is literally the MAX. Anything over is detrimental.

85 is way too hot. If you like it warm than 82 should be your max.

And if you take into account VPD. At 85 , for a 1.0 kpa vpd, you'd need 75.7 RH.

At 82 degrees you'd need 73.2% RH

FooDoo · May 18, 2015

@ivyboy1225 here's where you can download a vpd calculator

Its the last link. I went there on my phone and downloaded it straight to mobile. Works perfectly but you'll need to know and use celcius instead of Fahrenheit

.08 kpa is ideal for veg (that's more humid)
1.0 kpa is ideal for flower (less humid)

If you run scrubbers and need lower humidity, you aim for 1.25 kpa during veg and flower. (That's more dry but still at the peak of humidity without clogging/soaking the carbon in the scrubbers). When running scrubbers to not go over 60% humidity you'll also have to run a cooler temp of like 79 degrees

ivyboy1225 · May 18, 2015

@FooDoo thanks for info. I never heard of RH being that high for bloom before, I was taught the lower in bloom = the better. Always learning new stuff on the farm.

FooDoo · May 18, 2015

ivyboy1225 said:
@FooDoo thanks for info. I never heard of RH being that high for bloom before, I was taught the lower in bloom = the better. Always learning new stuff on the farm.

Tons of misinformation on the internet. Let me assure you since running 70+% rh I haven't lost a single nug to bud mold either . I'll pm you some links

Chronic Monster · Jun 3, 2015

Hope everyone is well, damn thanks to cap for them great ratios, I been crushing it of late.
peace n love :)

Owlfarm · Jun 14, 2015

Hello all,
So I've been running the 3 grams hydro, 1.8 grams cal/nit, .5 gram epsom ratio in undercurrent systems for a while now and it's working great! I'm wondering if this ratio is ok for mother plants in soil in 3-5 gallon smart pots though. My hydro plants look awesome all the way through on this ratio, but my mother plants in soil are starting to look funky... How would you guys tweak the formula for mothers in soil in smart pots?

click80 · Jun 15, 2015

For what it's worth. When I was doing hydro but had my mothers in soil I found that just a half strength age old grow @ half strength once a week, for N hungry strains, occasional addition of maxicrop dry and liquid, occasional epsom (very little Epson 1/4 tsp/g) +teas and caps bennies (for sure every week) works perfect. Never had much luck using hydro nutes in soil, even with teas after week 6-7. Which is one reason I just clone and restart moms. I now know that although you can use synthetic nutes with moms, regular organic inputs help add resilience (?) to medium degradation and CEC changes. Just a theory.

click80 · Jun 15, 2015

BTW. Great thread. Props to OP and everyone keeping it going.

Bangarang · Jul 2, 2015

Can someone hook me up with the numbers for House and Garden Coco A and B? I know that the formula has been posted some where but i can not find it.

Fresh Starts · Jul 2, 2015

You might have better luck searching in the Fatman thread. That's all about DIY mixing @Bangarang

Lurkin4yrs · Jul 30, 2015

Making veg+bloom from raw salts, possible with basic salts? I know we can make any thing we want but I'm just curious.

Thoughts?
-lurkin

Fresh Starts · Jul 30, 2015

Lurkin4yrs said:
Making veg+bloom from raw salts, possible with basic salts? I know we can make any thing we want but I'm just curious.

Thoughts?
-lurkin

Not sure what you mean by basic salts. You seem to infer that they are different from raw salts. Please elaborate

Cheap alternatives to overpriced hydroponic nutrients

Cheap alternatives to overpriced hydroponic nutrients

ivyboy1225

Fresh Starts

ivyboy1225

jimmy the hat

Fresh Starts

ivyboy1225

Fresh Starts

ivyboy1225

FooDoo

FooDoo

ivyboy1225

FooDoo

Chronic Monster

Owlfarm

click80

click80

Bangarang

Fresh Starts

Lurkin4yrs

Fresh Starts

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