Rushoe
- 990
- 43
ok anyone using it with some 240 ppm tap?
Cheap alternatives to overpriced hydroponic nutrients
ok anyone using it with some 240 ppm tap?
GreenThumbBill
- 909
- 93
I'm not an expert and have never used Jack's but I don't think an extra 160ppm is that big of a deal. When I first started growing I was in a house that had well water that was 800ppm and used Ionic grow/bloom/boost as directed on the bottle with excellent results.
Rushoe
- 990
- 43
ok kool well I guess I wanted to know if there was a set amount per gallon.
GreenThumbBill
- 909
- 93
From my research most ppl use 3-3.5g of the pro hydro and 2-2.5g of the cal nit per gallon from start to flush. Measure with a digital scale and then put the powders into separate mason jars of hot water and shake well, then add to your reservoir.
Somebody please correct me if I'm wrong.
Somebody please correct me if I'm wrong.
Rushoe
- 990
- 43
That's why I was asking about the tap so I wouldn't have to buy the cal nite or whatever not sure if it works like that for this but I would think so...Or is this a two part I thought it was just one huge bag of powder. If its like that then I am gonna stick to the maxibloom it very easy to use and works very well...I was running low on the maxibloom and wanted to grab some of this jacks stuff so I was trying to see what the farm says about it. Plus maxibloom even works to veg plants out really easy shit I am gonna show my brother how to use it and he is as stupid as they come.
GreenThumbBill
- 909
- 93
If you use the Jack's pro hydro you have to use the cal nite. You also have to add about 1g epsom salt for MG hungry strains. Which I forgot to mention before. But if it aint broke don't fix it.
I was looking at the maxi bloom too when I found out about the Jacks. So, you're having pretty good results with just the maxi from start to flush? 1tsp a gal? Do you have to add any cal mag or epsom salt?
I was looking at the maxi bloom too when I found out about the Jacks. So, you're having pretty good results with just the maxi from start to flush? 1tsp a gal? Do you have to add any cal mag or epsom salt?
Hermitian
- 77
- 6
You could save more money and simplify your life even further by using what cut-flower growers and flower bud (e.g., lavender) have done for decades: use a complete water-soluble with micros included. Forget about hydro stores, you'll find these at agricultural suppliers in 25 pound bags, manufactured by a number of companies.
For growth stage:
Use urea-free 20-20-20 or similar. A typical hydroponic dosage is 1 tablespoon per 6 gallons of water. If your water lacks calcium/magnesium (e.g., RO water), then you'll need a Epsom salts or another N-Cal-Mag source.
For bloom stage:
Use a urea-free 6-30-30 or similar at about 1 tablespoon per 6 gallons of water. Again, you might need a Cal-Mag supplement.
That's it. No other supplements, unless you have a poor strain of plant. In this increasingly rare case, you could use a phosphate or phosphite supplement at transition time and in very small dosages at the end. For water soluble phosphate, an inexpensive but balanced choice is 10-52-10, 5-50-16, or 5-50-17. For the phosphite, you'll find it sold agriculturally in gallons and totes as phosphite acid, 0-20-0. This compound is taken up systemically by the plant and gets a much stronger reaction.
I would say keep things really simple and stop pouring money down the drain on additives. If your plants are performing poorly, then it is most likely your environment and not a lack of nutrients -- in fact often it is too many different nutrients.
For growth stage:
Use urea-free 20-20-20 or similar. A typical hydroponic dosage is 1 tablespoon per 6 gallons of water. If your water lacks calcium/magnesium (e.g., RO water), then you'll need a Epsom salts or another N-Cal-Mag source.
For bloom stage:
Use a urea-free 6-30-30 or similar at about 1 tablespoon per 6 gallons of water. Again, you might need a Cal-Mag supplement.
That's it. No other supplements, unless you have a poor strain of plant. In this increasingly rare case, you could use a phosphate or phosphite supplement at transition time and in very small dosages at the end. For water soluble phosphate, an inexpensive but balanced choice is 10-52-10, 5-50-16, or 5-50-17. For the phosphite, you'll find it sold agriculturally in gallons and totes as phosphite acid, 0-20-0. This compound is taken up systemically by the plant and gets a much stronger reaction.
I would say keep things really simple and stop pouring money down the drain on additives. If your plants are performing poorly, then it is most likely your environment and not a lack of nutrients -- in fact often it is too many different nutrients.
Hermitian
- 77
- 6
For your outdoor plants on 30-10-10, be sure to switch to 6-30-30 when the plants begin to show transition to budding, or sooner if you want to force transition. At that time, I would also hit them with a single feeding of a water-soluble phosphate or phosphite supplement with an N-P-K profile of low-high-low.
SCARHOLE
- 217
- 28
Ever run 20-20-20 the entire plants life?
One nute to rule them all?
One nute to rule them all?
Hermitian
- 77
- 6
It's not optimal, but the results are satisfactory. The plants will be less compact both in structure and in buds. The cycle of growth, budding, and maturity will be more a function of the seasons than your timetable.
If I were going to choose one formula for the Cannabis crop, I would pick something like 12-26-26. Notice it is essentially 1:2:2 in terms of ratios. It's a nice in-between, with enough proportion of nitrogen for growth and enough P-K for good bud development. There are farmers of traditional budding crops (grains and herbs such as lavender) who also use it for particular situations such as shorter growing seasons, fall crops, or just simplicity.
Rushoe
- 990
- 43
yeah check out my thread on the white fire outdoor I just use the green scoop the maxibloom comes with smaller side and add it to my tap water that is 240ppm and the scoop it comes with is about 5.5 / 6 grams on maxibloom that gets used for veg half for seedlings and fresh clones then the full scoop once they are about a foot tall or when u feel the plant can take full scoop its really easy full scoop per gallon of water(tap) so no calmag or epsom salts needed...and about at day 21 or when I feel the stretch is over I use 7 grams of maxilbloom that works out to about 1300 1500 ppm and no ph adjustment needed for me it sits a a ph on 6.0 /5.7 I use coco outside.
skywalkerOG
- 173
- 43
Wanted to add a quick update.
Running 1.1 EC of Jacks Hydro, .6EC of Jacks Nitrate, and 1ml of epsom salt for every gallon which usually ups the EC .1.
Plants look stunning, 13 days into flower the plants have stopped stretching, bud sites are stacked, some are even dime size. Both strains are stinking like crazy.
Thanks so much for this thread, what win. Seems to working great in both coco & rockwool. I have used 2 doses of great white along side this and a drop of thrive alive every now and then. Until bud sites formed they were hit with a nice foliar every 3 days, and pruned once out of shock and drinking regularly.
At what point into flower should I tailor back the nitrogen? I'm guessing around week 6 for a 9 week strain?
The above mix is also working great for 3 moms I have in coco. They went from barely hanging on to life to full blown bushes in 2 weeks once I made the change.
Soooo much win in this thread!
Running 1.1 EC of Jacks Hydro, .6EC of Jacks Nitrate, and 1ml of epsom salt for every gallon which usually ups the EC .1.
Plants look stunning, 13 days into flower the plants have stopped stretching, bud sites are stacked, some are even dime size. Both strains are stinking like crazy.
Thanks so much for this thread, what win. Seems to working great in both coco & rockwool. I have used 2 doses of great white along side this and a drop of thrive alive every now and then. Until bud sites formed they were hit with a nice foliar every 3 days, and pruned once out of shock and drinking regularly.
At what point into flower should I tailor back the nitrogen? I'm guessing around week 6 for a 9 week strain?
The above mix is also working great for 3 moms I have in coco. They went from barely hanging on to life to full blown bushes in 2 weeks once I made the change.
Soooo much win in this thread!
budboy299
- 684
- 43
Sky...just curious as I dropped my truncheon and broke it...
how did you get to your 1.8 total ec mark?
Is it with RO water and if so what grams per gallon did you use of each ingredient?
I have some Jacks from a buddy that I was going to run but without the ec meter I am kind of shooting in the dark. Won't be getting a new truncheon for at least 2 weeks due to backorder.
thanks -BB
how did you get to your 1.8 total ec mark?
Is it with RO water and if so what grams per gallon did you use of each ingredient?
I have some Jacks from a buddy that I was going to run but without the ec meter I am kind of shooting in the dark. Won't be getting a new truncheon for at least 2 weeks due to backorder.
thanks -BB
desertsquirrel
- 1,177
- 83
mg/l is ppm. you could go off pure math, which is fine for mixing. But imo you need a meter to monitor.
Capulator
likes to smell trees.
Supporter
- 6,070
- 313
If it is designed specifically for herbs, then it may not be a good idea to use during the flowering stages IMHO. Herbs and leafy veggies dont need high doses of P. When basil flowers, its no longer marketable because it will soon be dead...
R
RED EYE JEDI
- 1
- 0
what's a cheap ph down i can use?
SCARHOLE
- 217
- 28
Vinagar.
Lemon juice.
Fish aquarium ph down
Sup Red eye Jedi!
Lemon juice.
Fish aquarium ph down
Sup Red eye Jedi!
desertsquirrel
- 1,177
- 83
Phosphoric, Nitric, or Citric acid. ^ is a waist of time and money.
Chronic Monster
- 1,146
- 113
True that :joint:
thanks for everyone who chimed in with great info, lots of great info being shared.
Snowblind
Kush Mints x Animal Cookie Bx2 Specialist
Supporter
- 1,074
- 163
I just got in my jacks new one part formula and the bloom booster with citric acid powder to mix up for my new ph down.....digesting the information now.
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