Dr.Green55
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I found when using Rice hulls I did get a very substantial benefit from them, great for aeration soil texture and drainage , there slow to break down, so if your only using your soil once, not really enough time, however if reusing the soil and topping up with some fresh each time I was getting much more benefit from them, as they had time to break down. At least that was my experience with them , but its been a few years since I used them.
Use Rix-X or Bio-Clean enzymes. They break down both much more quickly. Another alternative is half regular, half charred rice hulls.
Both methods work great for thicker stems and pest and mold resistance.
Do you have access to Phostrogen, Masterblend, or Growmore powdered fertilizer?
Im not sure since I've never used canna, but it looks very close ratio wise. Just dilute it down to the same ppm as what you were running with canna. Only thing is its chelated with EDTA which is toxic to plants.Would this be any good for me to use as a replacement for my base nutes
Elixir Gardens® Ericaceous Fertiliser - NPK 12-10-11 + 4
Elixir Gardens Ericaceous feed has been specially formulated to grow fantastic Rhododendrons, Azaleas, Camellias, Hydrangeas, Holly, Fern, Gardenia, Aster, Magnolia and more! Containing selected types of Nitrogen and a balanced range of macro and micro nutrients to maximise yield, with added trace elements and micro nutrients, which are chelated to ensure they are fully available to the plant.
Application Rates: With our powerful feed you can use as little as 0.5 - 1g per litre of water! Making this feed a very economical solution to your feeding needs.s.
Chemical Analysis:
Total Nitrogen (N) - 12%
(Of which)
NH4-N - 10.7
Ureic-N - 1.3
P2O5 (P) - 10.0 (4.4)
K2O (K) - 10.8 (9.0)
MgO (Mg) - 4.4 (2.7)
B soluble in water - 0.015
Cu chelated by EDTA - 0.017
Fe chelated by EDTA - 0.060
Mn chelated by EDTA - 0.034
BMosoluble in water - 0.001
Zn chelated by EDTA - 0.017.
The canna a and b combined is 5-4-3 plus I use calmag
Hi thanks I've already said in previous post can't do Jack's I'm. In UK so was looking fir alternative, but thanks anyway , I've sorted it now though, this is fir soil not soilless medium.Im not sure since I've never used canna, but it looks very close ratio wise. Just dilute it down to the same ppm as what you were running with canna. Only thing is its chelated with EDTA which is toxic to plants. If you want to be able to have more feedback and your questions answered it might be easier to just switch to something people have more experience and success with such as Jacks Hydro
Sorry edited it, didnt mean to say the part about jacks.Hi thanks I've already said in previous post can't do Jack's I'm. In UK so was looking fir alternative, but thanks anyway , I've sorted it now though, this is fir soil not soilless medium.
Welcome to the farm! Fantastic post.Man I don't know why people have such big ego's in this industry. I was hoping with legalization & the widespread of this psychedelic plant, one love would become more prevalent. ;p
When it comes down to it, nutrients are nutrients, the key is to learn to break down nutrient labels and be aware of what elements and what time in the grow cycle you are adding them & the balance of them; instead of just blindly throwing some magic new bottle of something with a cartoon on the label that promises you a Bling Bling big $$$ money harvest, you just end up doubling down on the same elements and causing lockout somewhere else. Those bottled nutrients & powdered all come from the same mineral salts; just look at the ingredients on the side. Some little things are unlisted sometimes like pgr's such as brassinosteroid, triacontanol, chitosan, 6-bap, but if you search around enough you can find info & application rates on these as well, you can even read the marketing on their magic additives and compare it to the effects of these PGR's and you'll see they are the same. If you think they're adding something magical to the bottle that modern agriculture hasn't already figured out then you're just a victim of slick marketing. We can get away with spending a lot on our fertilizer programs because of the large margin on these flowers but look at tomato gardeners with their margins so slim if theres a way to squeeze an extra 5-10% out of the plant they'd have figured it out already. Just remember that even though this plant is wonderful and has changed many psyches, it's still a plant, not some mystical being who needs nutrients from mars to grow.
In the end though they're all the different ends to the same road & its all about how you dial it in.
Salts taught me to be aware of each element & their relation to each other, thats what mother nature is all about... balance. Keep it balanced and the plant will trive.
To be honest on smaller tent grow or something its a little easier sometimes to use a bottled nutrient because the cost savings doesn't justify the time it takes to weigh everything out and mixing till dissolved completely. But if you're running anything larger than a light or two you'd be hard pressed to not look into the savings of mixing your own fertilizers & stop paying the markup on water used to dilute it down. The difference in costs is plain ol business, extra profit +shipping costs. 10lbs of water is a lot more expensive to move across the world to your hydro store than it is to send a 1lb of salts.
Just be careful and don't fall victim to that Price=/=Quality mindset & think for yourself sometimes. Just cause Gucci charges $3000 for a belt doesn't mean its gonna hold your pants up better than that 10 dollar one from Walmart.
Chemical Analysis:
Total Nitrogen (N) - 12%
(Of which)
NH4-N - 10.7
Ureic-N - 1.3
Exactly what bill pm'd me lol. I was close though. I've at least learned what should be in there.Nope
Whats wrong with that? Yeah urea is a cheaper form of nitrogen but a 10:1 ratio of nitric nitrogen to ammoniacal nitrogen is a good ratio to keep ph balanced and since he's growing in media, bacteria would break down that urea into ammoniacal in less than two days. Studies have shown plants can grow with just nitrate but growth improves with a small ammoniacal nitrogen.Nope
Whats wrong with that? Yeah urea is a cheaper form of nitrogen but a 10:1 ratio of nitric nitrogen to ammoniacal nitrogen is a good ratio to keep ph balanced and since he's growing in media, bacteria would break down that urea into ammoniacal in less than two days. Studies have shown plants can grow with just nitrate but growth improves with a small ammoniacal nitrogen.
Why is everyone so turned off by pee but is totally okay with animal poop? haha
I've been following a journal over on the Mag running the following Jacks ratios in coco with very good results. I've been growing a few years but mixing dry fertz it something I'm currently trying to get my head around.
I'm setting up a new room... 100% Canna coco, 2gal pots with multiple feeds per day and plan to run Jack's @ 3g/Jacks, 2.5g/Calnit, no Epsom and 0.5g/MKP weeks 2-6. The following is a copy/paste from a member on the Mag.
"I'm not a big fan of the 3-2-1 for coco growing because of the high Mg levels.
First number is the grams for Jacks. Second number is Calnit and the third number is Epsom. The numbers are the actual elemental ppm's of each nutrient being fed to the plant.
....3-2-1................3.6-2.4-1..................3-2.5
N...122.....................14 6........................142
P.....41.....................5 0...........................41
K...171....................205 .........................171
Ca..95.....................114 .........................119
Mg..76.....................94. ..........................50
S....99....................112 ...........................65
I like the 3 grams of Jacks to 2.5 grams of Calnit and no Epsom. It brings up the Ca levels closer to K and keeps the Mg in check. 1 gram of Epsom add 26 ppms of Mg and 34 ppms of sulfur. Canna runs a strict 3-1 ratio of Ca to Mg.
Ca and Mg are antagonists. They work against each other. Too much of one and it messes with the uptake of the other. I like to keep my Ca to Mg ratio between 4-1 or 3-1. Coco binds with K, Ca, and Mg so keeping these ratios in check is important.
I like to add some MKP with Jacks starting the second week of flower until the 5-6 week. I think the P levels are a bit low for flowering and this adds some P and K."
Would like some opinions on the above formula. I also plan to either run a weekly compost tea drench or Tribus microbes also applied once a week.
Any insight is much appreciated... thanks!
I've been following a journal over on the Mag running the following Jacks ratios in coco with very good results. I've been growing a few years but mixing dry fertz it something I'm currently trying to get my head around.
I'm setting up a new room... 100% Canna coco, 2gal pots with multiple feeds per day and plan to run Jack's @ 3g/Jacks, 2.5g/Calnit, no Epsom and 0.5g/MKP weeks 2-6. The following is a copy/paste from a member on the Mag.
"I'm not a big fan of the 3-2-1 for coco growing because of the high Mg levels.
First number is the grams for Jacks. Second number is Calnit and the third number is Epsom. The numbers are the actual elemental ppm's of each nutrient being fed to the plant.
....3-2-1................3.6-2.4-1..................3-2.5
N...122.....................14 6........................142
P.....41.....................5 0...........................41
K...171....................205 .........................171
Ca..95.....................114 .........................119
Mg..76.....................94. ..........................50
S....99....................112 ...........................65
I like the 3 grams of Jacks to 2.5 grams of Calnit and no Epsom. It brings up the Ca levels closer to K and keeps the Mg in check. 1 gram of Epsom add 26 ppms of Mg and 34 ppms of sulfur. Canna runs a strict 3-1 ratio of Ca to Mg.
Ca and Mg are antagonists. They work against each other. Too much of one and it messes with the uptake of the other. I like to keep my Ca to Mg ratio between 4-1 or 3-1. Coco binds with K, Ca, and Mg so keeping these ratios in check is important.
I like to add some MKP with Jacks starting the second week of flower until the 5-6 week. I think the P levels are a bit low for flowering and this adds some P and K."
Would like some opinions on the above formula. I also plan to either run a weekly compost tea drench or Tribus microbes also applied once a week.
Any insight is much appreciated... thanks!
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