CNS-17 veg food duplicate(copy of their 3-1-2 with improvements)

[hogan400]

Hey Dank, I used to drill pvc a lot. I ran into trouble a couple times over the yrs, if I had to remove my trellis in a corner or adjust it occasionally. Kind of a pain. I started using zip ties. When not too tight, you can spin em and it'll tighten the trellis or slide em along the pvc and it can lengthen it as well, or in corners also. I started using the fabric trellis instead of the plastic type and zip ties, it works good. Simple

If you are making legs and feet, another Idea I came up with was using reflector hanger ratchets. I hung em from the ceiling and hung the 1" pvc screen, I can now adjust it up or down exactly where I like, even as the canopy stretches I get good adjustments with ease. I will even hang a second screen sometimes a foot or so higher by fastening it with clips directly thru the rope with a c-clip pin like for a trailer hitch. works like a champ. No more drilling for me. I have a few pics in my threads if you are interested in a clean easy large screen that dont touch the floor. We did it in a tent for my buddy and he can crawl under and make adjustments to his buckets easier as well. I can give more detail if you decide to try it next time. Thanks for your help as well guys.

 

[dankworth]

I got low-profile raceway tables on casters. Then 4 upright 3/4" pvc, with holes drilled every 2".
So two horizontal 3/4" will be deck-screwed to the uprights. Then metal screen laid on top of the two horizontal 3/4s. Then there will still be exposed upright pvc with the holes drilled to secure plastic horti-trellis to.
So the two layers of screens that I need.
I tried screens hanging from the ceiling, I fucking hated it, and it kept snagging the butt of the thing riding on my hip.
More work this way for sure, but movable platforms with two totes apiece, and screens dedicated to the platforms/totes. So I can roll shit out the way, crawl under, etc.

 

[derelict]

yep im on it homie fell free to contact me. it is very exciting ! though far from as easy as my boy dank makes it seem.

awesome, definitely something i'll keep in mind!

 

[DowNwithDirT]

still thinking too much K. Me and others are working number around the 100-75-75-125-40 range.

I'm very curious as to how it works when adding all the ppm's of said solution. Should we not be able to account for every ppm....
why does nothing ever add up to what the end ec/ppm is?

and dank aren't you in co?
where can I get salts.

 

[dankworth]

still thinking too much K. Me and others are working number around the 100-75-75-125-40 range.

I'm very curious as to how it works when adding all the ppm's of said solution. Should we not be able to account for every ppm....
why does nothing ever add up to what the end ec/ppm is?

and dank aren't you in co?
where can I get salts.

All the salts vary in conductivity. 100 ppms of one will not register the same as 100 ppms of another. So you can add up all the ppms, but due to the fact that your ppm pen does not truly measure ppms, but an average result of all the differing electrical conductivities, then you end up with a reading above what you calculated out to be.
Least that's what I read. The important thing is to get the ratios exact, then the strength can simply be tailored to the exact needs.

I am in chow with 75% hydroton. Coco contributes lots of K from what I read, and I have much less coco, so need more K. I liked the 3-1-4 ratio lots more than the 3-1-2 which was actually a lot more like a 4-1-3. But that is in my chow. Still tweaking the recipe a bit, having fun, learning lots. Good times. Haven't spent shit on nutes in months now.
I am in PNW. But maybe deep buddy can point you in the right direction for salts.
Maybe try calling Wilbur-Ellis and axe them who sells 50 lb bags of ag salts.

 

[DowNwithDirT]

nvm found a supplier in denver.

Good call. I see. Thanks for the explanations. I thought it was something like that. PPM and ec is all make believe in reality. MG/L is where its at. I can't wait to mix my own shit.

High K in veg creates extremely bushy and stocky plants....unnecessarily if you ask me. I can see going as high as 2/3 that in mid flower but it seems that even in systems where I had no coco, K levels didn't need to be that high...they could be, and to no real detriment, but they did not need to be.

Idk...just my $.2
keep up the great work

 

[dankworth]

Still playing with values, I bet there will be a better one for me than the 3-1-4. Maybe I'll try 3-1-3 next to see what happens.
Once I looked at grams/liter for salts it made figuring shit out easy.
Like epsom is 9.8% Mg, 13% S. So 1 gram/liter will contain 98 ppms Mg, 130 ppms S.
Thinking about things like that simplifies everything.
Glad you are into salts. So much savings.

 

[DowNwithDirT]

The thing is I'm really not yet...just want to get into it asap.....know lots of people mixing and have figured out pretty good idea of what I'm doing with canna, and what levels what is at.

 

[dankworth]

The thing is I'm really not yet...just want to get into it asap.....know lots of people mixing and have figured out pretty good idea of what I'm doing with canna, and what levels what is at.

Yeah I like to copy a formula that already works okay and then adjust from there. If you know the ppm values of Canna, and duplicate all the exact ingredients, it should be awesome.
Micros will take a little more work.
But yeah, copying is the way to go.
Don't forget to talk some shit once you have copied their recipe.

 

[DowNwithDirT]

can we talk about micro's a little....to what extent...

I understand...iron, manganese, boron, and molybdenum.. what else... and what are you using?

 

[DowNwithDirT]

also what do you do for small plants, like cut everything in half, or just dilute after mixing....??

 

[dankworth]

can we talk about micro's a little....to what extent...

I understand...iron, manganese, boron, and molybdenum.. what else... and what are you using?

Running the micro mix from the place where I got the salts. Better than no micros, but I will be using Jack's micros in a week or so when I get ahold of them.
Don't know enough yet to state things definitively about micros and the appropriate ratios, still figuring that out slowly.
Zinc and copper should be in there too maybe.

For smaller plants, yeah just drop dosage down. If the formula is legit, then as soon as you see a deficiency, then bump strength up and shit will solve itself.
Easy to dilute off a mix of higher ec.
Keep in mind when VPD is managed well that they will want higher EC.
Then when you drop humidity as flowering goes on, you will need to drop EC in response. Cause they will transpire more and all.

 

[DowNwithDirT]

word good call.

 

[Crysmatic]

Dank, I want to use the 2:1 Fe:Mn ratio - where can I find that paper you quoted? I wanted to bump up my Boron, so I checked out some Mulder charts for interactions. I checked three charts: one had an antagonism, one had a synergy, and the third didn't list Boron at all o_O

I finally got feedback on my last formula...one fert for veg through to harvest. no more calcium issues, multiple varieties. the patient is super happy.

I was just wondering how you feel when you're around the nute tanks? Have you thought about spraying your skin with Fe-eddha? Or do you get relief just by splashing around in the nutes? :) Is your variety effective for your condition like it used to be? Do you have any pics?

 

[tconch]

Only if it has tria lol.
Leadsled's tria bud-

MOAB bud-(looks like it may have been a little too warm for the plant, but just guessing)

Those "tufts" are a dead giveaway. There is lots of other reasons I could use to support this, but I get tired of repeating myself lol.
Hopefully the A1 product has tria. I personally will continue to use MOAB until I am able to make it myself.
I would keep the B1.
I would get some Jack's micros.

Dank what did you mean by the "tufts" are a dead giveaway?

 

[dankworth]

Dank what did you mean by the "tufts" are a dead giveaway?

beginning of what would be foxtails.
Recent evidence supports the idea that MOAB contains no tria, I should state that here.

 

[ttystikk]

If by 'tria' y'all are referring to triacontanol the PGR, it's easy to find; just go get yourself some alfalfa and make a slurry out of it. It can be fresh, dried, or horsefeed pellets, just heat it to about 130F and let it 'steep' for an hour or more. Strain through cheesecloth or some such and apply it to your girls either by drench or (faster) by foliar. I understand it likes to bind with calcium, so if your foliar has calcium in it, you've just made a homebrewed version of 'Calcium-25'.

 

[tconch]

If by 'tria' y'all are referring to triacontanol the PGR, it's easy to find; just go get yourself some alfalfa and make a slurry out of it. It can be fresh, dried, or horsefeed pellets, just heat it to about 130F and let it 'steep' for an hour or more. Strain through cheesecloth or some such and apply it to your girls either by drench or (faster) by foliar. I understand it likes to bind with calcium, so if your foliar has calcium in it, you've just made a homebrewed version of 'Calcium-25'.

ttystikk what would cause foxtailing other than to close to lights?

 

[ttystikk]

ttystikk what would cause foxtailing other than to close to lights?

I'm not sure what causes foxtailing. I just know that some people find it undesirable for some reason- and I don't even know what that reason is.

 

[LexLuthor]

I think there is a misconception as to what foxtails are. I know some growers say its a way to describe the shape of a bud, just like how people say "spear shaped buds". Now others, mostly online from what I've seen, say its some type of undesirable 'thing' on there buds, I guess the calyxes stack too close on top of eachother??

Anyways, I always used the term foxtail to describe a specific shape of buds. Its when the top of the bud is bigger and it tapers towards the bottom, just like the shape of an actual fox's tail. So what are the other definitions and/or terms of use??