Dankworth's tiny head

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Abek666

Abek666

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Nice plants and a cool garden! You have much to look forward to, hope you will enjoy any minute of it^^

peace
 
dankworth

dankworth

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Oh shit

IMG 1758


IMG 1759


IMG 1760
 
dankworth

dankworth

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Why did you do the dropped ceiling? I can guess, but I value your perspective. It looks like it was a lot of work-
Mostly to bounce the light back from the floor. It was a couple hours of work. Would have been easier to do with no plants in the way.

And because it looks so fucking cool.
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

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Mostly to bounce the light back from the floor. It was a couple hours of work. Would have been easier to do with no plants in the way.

And because it looks so fucking cool.

Hmmm... I doubt it will help your light distribution significantly, but I still think it was inspired, because it serves to isolate the dead airspace around your hoods from the growing space. Makes it much easier to control your environment with less airspace around the girls.

And it looks sooo cool... like the 'enviroponics' deck on a fuckin' spaceship, bro! :D
 
dankworth

dankworth

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Hmmm... I doubt it will help your light distribution significantly, but I still think it was inspired, because it serves to isolate the dead airspace around your hoods from the growing space. Makes it much easier to control your environment with less airspace around the girls.

And it looks sooo cool... like the 'enviroponics' deck on a fuckin' spaceship, bro! :D
Once you tile the top of your totes and the space in between with reflectix, and it bounces the light straight up towards the not-that-reflective ceiling that is much further away, and you stick your hand up there and see how bright that reflected light is, you will want to make better use of that light with
1. a more reflective ceiling
2. a ceiling surface closer to the canopy.
The closer a reflective surface is to the plant material, the more effective it is at putting weight on.
It is part of the philosophy of removing design inefficiencies to get more weight.

Try it. Create a reflective "floor" across the canopy at container height. Get down and check out how it lights the lowers. And then stick your hand up by the ceiling and see how you are losing that light.

You have to be careful of windspeed, ambient vs canopy temps, airflow patterns when you get all enthusiastic with the reflectix.

The higher you are, the cooler it looks.

If you position enough reflectix strategically, you can reflect a bunch of light right back into your pocket.
And it is all pimped-out spacelab in there.
I'd like to thank Easypleasie.
Where you at, Easy.
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

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Once you tile the top of your totes and the space in between with reflectix, and it bounces the light straight up towards the not-that-reflective ceiling that is much further away, and you stick your hand up there and see how bright that reflected light is, you will want to make better use of that light with
1. a more reflective ceiling
2. a ceiling surface closer to the canopy.
The closer a reflective surface is to the plant material, the more effective it is at putting weight on.
It is part of the philosophy of removing design inefficiencies to get more weight.

Try it. Create a reflective "floor" across the canopy at container height. Get down and check out how it lights the lowers. And then stick your hand up by the ceiling and see how you are losing that light.

You have to be careful of windspeed, ambient vs canopy temps, airflow patterns when you get all enthusiastic with the reflectix.

The higher you are, the cooler it looks.

If you position enough reflectix strategically, you can reflect a bunch of light right back into your pocket.
And it is all pimped-out spacelab in there.
I'd like to thank Easypleasie.
Where you at, Easy.

Since the photo didn't show the floor, I didn't know how much it reflected. Interesting...
 
dankworth

dankworth

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Since the photo didn't show the floor, I didn't know how much it reflected. Interesting...
If I can pick up an extra 2% from the reflectix floor and the reflectix suspended ceiling(I will be picking up more than 2%) then I will pick up an extra 5 ounces or so.
Without the reflectix floor, the suspended ceiling would not be as useful.

We see all these vert guys(yes you guys) with these ceilings that could be awesome reflective surfaces that are really far away from the plant tops.
Northone had a Chemdog D in a bucket system with what looked like 8' ceilings, effectively recruiting the ceiling very efficiently as a reflector.
Vert lamp guys could rock the reflectix elevated floor thing.
I will be hanging less-than-1k-wattage vert lamps in between rows as this thing progresses. Not this run, but next one. Spread the specimens aside just a little, add the vert whatevers.
Then the reflectix floor will be even more useful bouncing light back to the plant.
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

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If I can pick up an extra 2% from the reflectix floor and the reflectix suspended ceiling(I will be picking up more than 2%) then I will pick up an extra 5 ounces or so.
Without the reflectix floor, the suspended ceiling would not be as useful.

You're right, if your floor wasn't reflective, the suspended ceiling might not be as useful as a reflective surface.

I still think you stand to gain more than you think by walling off the dead airspace above and actively managing only the space right over the plants. The smaller volume of controlled air would save quite a bit on the AC bill and allow you to better manage both temps and humidity. From the pics you posted, it looks like you're about 80% there already- you'd just need to tape all the seams between reflectix and walls, around any vents going up there and of course around the light fixtures themselves.

Show me a pimpin' spaceship that's airtight, bro! I like 'enviroponics', I'm keepin' it.
 
dankworth

dankworth

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You're right, if your floor wasn't reflective, the suspended ceiling might not be as useful as a reflective surface.

I still think you stand to gain more than you think by walling off the dead airspace above and actively managing only the space right over the plants. The smaller volume of controlled air would save quite a bit on the AC bill and allow you to better manage both temps and humidity. From the pics you posted, it looks like you're about 80% there already- you'd just need to tape all the seams between reflectix and walls, around any vents going up there and of course around the light fixtures themselves.

Show me a pimpin' spaceship that's airtight, bro! I like 'enviroponics', I'm keepin' it.
I need for those air gaps to be there for the airflow to manage itself properly in the room.
It is actually more difficult to keep environmental conditions optimal with all that reflectix there, as opposed to a more open design.
Veg room in the walk-in closet used to be a vert room with mpbs and 6s, I learned a lot about reflectix and airflow in confined spaces from that.
Higher volumes of air create better buffers against change. Doing things as I have makes things more touchy. The airspace outside the reflectix functions as a mixing chamber for the AC and dehuey. Water-cooled spot cooler is also part of this management strategy.
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

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I need for those air gaps to be there for the airflow to manage itself properly in the room.
It is actually more difficult to keep environmental conditions optimal with all that reflectix there, as opposed to a more open design.
Veg room in the walk-in closet used to be a vert room with mpbs and 6s, I learned a lot about reflectix and airflow in confined spaces from that.
Higher volumes of air create better buffers against change. Doing things as I have makes things more touchy. The airspace outside the reflectix functions as a mixing chamber for the AC and dehuey. Water-cooled spot cooler is also part of this management strategy.

See, this is why I ask questions. Cuz I learn stuff.
 
dankworth

dankworth

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See, this is why I ask questions. Cuz I learn stuff.
You ask a lot of good questions. And it is good to see if you can poke holes in arguments, to determine merit of the argument.
Some have recommended against reflective floor surfaces. I like what it does to lowers, it chunks and frosts them up.
This is part of the whole "high light values up and down the bearing surface of the plant" thing.
Since we are trimming the outside of the bud, we also want denser bud so there will be less trimming.
The idea here, especially with all the reflectix and 80+ watts/ft2 overhead lighting, is to end up with as much premium material as possible without having to scrog and shave so rigorously as some have to.
Slightly taller plants with the vert 750s or whatever hung low next time will cause a fairly evenly lit bearing surface on the entire plant. Overhead 1ks lighting up the top two thirds or so well, bottoms rounded out with the vert lamp lighting.
Should be fun.
 
AdvancedBioHydroponics

AdvancedBioHydroponics

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How do you keep from getting bud rot with the nugs that dense and thick? Sorry if this has been asked already as I have not read through the thread. When we first started we tried to get the buds as big and as thick as possible and was very successful at it, but when we did this we lost a bit to bud rot. Finally after years of trying different things we ended up trying to not let them get so big of monsters to avoid bud rot.....we have more than enough air flow and the plants never touch each other and RH is always in check but when they got that big like in your pics we always had some bud rot. What is your secret to avoid the dreaded bud rot?

We thought at one point it was genetic possibly, but then noticed just about any strain we tested that we pushed to get them into the "monster bud" category would end up with some bud rot. So either ALL the genetics we tested was at fault which does not seem feasible, or it is something else. When we tried the same strains over again this time not letting them go so long and get super super big, they did not have any bud rot at all.

It seems when they get too big and dense they trap water inside the bud as the water cant get out and this over time builds up and leads to the bud rot......so the only solution we found was to not let them get "monster" big and not let them flower for extended periods of time.

So problem there is we treat for cancer and need potency and obviously getting the biggest buds possible or the highest yield possible is something that is wanted.....would love to know any ideas or how you guys get around this or deal with it.
 
dankworth

dankworth

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How do you keep from getting bud rot with the nugs that dense and thick? Sorry if this has been asked already as I have not read through the thread. When we first started we tried to get the buds as big and as thick as possible and was very successful at it, but when we did this we lost a bit to bud rot. Finally after years of trying different things we ended up trying to not let them get so big of monsters to avoid bud rot.....we have more than enough air flow and the plants never touch each other and RH is always in check but when they got that big like in your pics we always had some bud rot. What is your secret to avoid the dreaded bud rot?

We thought at one point it was genetic possibly, but then noticed just about any strain we tested that we pushed to get them into the "monster bud" category would end up with some bud rot. So either ALL the genetics we tested was at fault which does not seem feasible, or it is something else. When we tried the same strains over again this time not letting them go so long and get super super big, they did not have any bud rot at all.

It seems when they get too big and dense they trap water inside the bud as the water cant get out and this over time builds up and leads to the bud rot......so the only solution we found was to not let them get "monster" big and not let them flower for extended periods of time.

So problem there is we treat for cancer and need potency and obviously getting the biggest buds possible or the highest yield possible is something that is wanted.....would love to know any ideas or how you guys get around this or deal with it.
I ended up with rot with the bigass colas, but not much at all. Airflow seems to be a big key. The big ones do want to trap moisture I think. I am addressing this right now by keeping rh in check early.
I suspect inappropriate nutrition causes leaf senescence to occur in a bad spot where humidity will want to build. Then the dead leaf enables the rot. Live leaf would not. That's a suspicion of mine.
Nutrition as pertains to disease resistance is a key here I am guessing. I still have a lot of learning to do before I could even be sure of this.
Some burn sulfur to deal with this, I'm not into that. Foliar w/Cap's bennies probably be good, colonize the leaves so bad shit has a harder time gaining a foothold.
I think looking at calcium is a good place to start here.
Nutritional profile changes that lend towards elongated forms of these monster buds will help on this run I think.
 
dankworth

dankworth

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alright dude my threads gone... i had it killed because it turned into a fucking joke. I checked it out yesterday and one person left four pages of comments...it turned into the fucking View

View attachment 224335
Well since you're here, the least you could do is talk a bunch of shit.
Good to have you come troll my thread.
Tired of this thread's name, maybe I'll start another one.
What do they talk about on the View? Vagines?
 
outwest

outwest

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Well since you're here, the least you could do is talk a bunch of shit.
Good to have you come troll my thread.
Tired of this thread's name, maybe I'll start another one.
What do they talk about on the View? Vagines?

Growing weed.

outwest
 
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